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Extension from LTSA for work and Regos due to COVID again. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/about-us/coronavirus-disease-covid-19-services-update/documents-with-temporary-extensions/

God I miss being a mod. I would just ban this moron and his previous accounts.

Boost is a measure of restriction. The sc14 set up I put together was frankly mediocre, and rightly so. They never did much when retro fitted to a 4age, so expectations were low on a b28.

I think Autoglym do a glass polish.

dammit got my hopes up

Put a new starter motor in today, heck of a job that needed a 2nd person to get the manifold off. Cars been sitting for a month as it didn't start at all just before lockdown, pulled a starter code so ordered a new one through fcp euro and all the associated bits. Or so I thought. Starter got delayed on shipping through lockdown, and detoured through Australia as well, so only started pulling everything plastic off on Thursday. Got down to throttle body on the manifold so left it. Friday I discovered that I should have ordered a breather hose from the back of the valve cover, as they break all the time being removed :S, so I spent an hour carefully getting it loose. The PCV system was done a year or so ago so all hoses were new. I then got the throttle body off and all other connectors, there is a few, and finally it was time to tackle the manifold. And yeah not a one man job 😅 Got my bro in law over today(well yesterday) and we got it out no sweat, 5 or 6 connectors underneath that would have been a nightmare doing it myself. Got it all back together in much less time with: - new starter and bolts - new intake manifold gaskets - new(to me) Turner Motorsports intake boot - nice clean throttle body - confirmed both DISAs have been replaced - cleaned up power steering reservoir to check where its leaking Car started immediately, much improved. Didn't take a photo of the shiny starter but it looked good. Ended up doing some troubleshooting after starting as car ran rough and was throwing misfire codes. Checked all coils/plugs and found when we put the manifold back on that the oxygen sensor wire had got pinched, luckily could release it from the manifold and the wire insulation was torn but the wire was undamaged . Quick repair and fired up again, no codes and runs mint.

Gets popcorn

Pretty common on those. Same with PK/PJ rangers, they just have cheap components fitted to them

Called LVVTA and they were more helpful than I expected. It does not matter whether the seat slides or tilts. As long as the seat can move forward far enough to allow for 300mm space. As Dave said earlier, there does need to be a lever that is accessable to the rear passenger. This would be easy to make. However, what will more likely cause my setup to need the rear seat 'removed' is the seatbelt routing. Because the seat belt will be running diagonally across the aisle, and that is not allowed if it unreasonably hinders access. The guy I spoke to on the phone said it will basically come down to the certifier whether it's too much of a pain to get in and out or not.

Have to lean towards moronic. The e36 328i @The H. Behemoth sold to a friend @LemonHunter had one particularly interesting modification carried out. That was a VTA catch can spraying oil droplets over the front suspension brakes. The engine (which had low compression) also showed signs of "quality" workmanship too.

Harper, There is a difference between the two videos. Maybe not the end result but how they got there. I'm sure the CSL seat would slide forward as well as tilt and could been initiated by a rear passenger. Your call on legality, but rear seats out for WOF and no insurance when you would ready need it. As Dave said give Wellington a call get clarification, because as I found certifiers can/ do interpret the rules differently. Hope it works out Mark

I did and the slider worked off the seats folding lever. (Not fixed back) Harper the E36 tunnel didn't allow me get the distance required over the full lenght/height of the seat back. If I remember it was 30-40mm short at the base of the seat and pillar.

Looks great eh @Simca? When I was at intermediate and early high school my friend’s mother had one the same in Bronzit Beige, with check cloth I think. May have had Momo alloys. It was FLAAAAAASH as

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3260294076?bof=WeWMnkFK Genuine tech 1 kitted 323 manual sedan for 15k ono. Seems like a steal for what they're going for nowadays. Looks alright too.

Yes, sorry when I said "side" I meant the slider leaver on the side of the seat base, which I wasn't explicit about. Anything on the side of the seat back, within reach of the rear passenger should be fine. Also accepted is the additional 300m requirement even with (c), I didn't click through on your link - the rules are obviously happy to sacrifice fat people! 😂

Why? This "moron" successfully designed and produced SC's for multiple successful boosted M5x engines. A bunch of BS righteous pricks gave him a hard time for no good reason and he politely persisted and proved said righteous pricks wrong, I'm not sure if you were one of them. I'm not saying the maths above are right or wrong, most of it is above my simple scan but Hyde has proven his SC's work when many said he couldn't do it, you can't dispute the evidence. Edit: and ffs, it simply looks like he's trying to help here, isn't that what forums are for? If you don't agree with his advice that's fine, just don't say it's wrong without providing the necessary adjustments or corrections.

@M3AN Below C in that document it states: "NOTE: A seat that tilts forward as referred to in 2.3(9)(c) needs to provide adequate space to allow reasonable access for the type of vehicle. If access is for more than one row of seating or the seats are intended for regular use, then the space provided needs to meet 2.3(9)(b) and be 300 mm wide over the majority of the height" So B still applies. As for adding another lever, again I'm not sure how it would differ from the CSL tilt (especially if as you say it unlocks the slide mechanism). In terms of lever position LVVTA says it must both: "(a) be positioned on the side of the seat nearest the adjacent door; and (b) be within easy reach, and be able to be easily operated by any person relying on the control to assist in exiting the vehicle." It can be on the side but saying the BK handle is 'within easy reach' is definitely pushing it.

I think you'll find they mean an absolute minimum, i.e. the 300mm threshold can't ever be less an 300mm using all available adjustments. If you can move the front seat into a position where there isn't a 300mm "aisle" my understanding is that you'll fall foul of the regulation. That's how it was explained to me when I was researching putting Recaros into my M3. Essentially, in a coupé, if you want to keep the rear seats at least one of the front seats need to fold forward and importantly, the fold leaver/switch must be easily accessible by a rear seat passenger (effectively must be on the backrest or rear hinge/base). Best to make a quick stop via a LVVC though, certainly don't take my word for it! It was a number of years ago that I was researching this, YMMV.

Megiuars do one I have had good results with But I would recommend talking to Sam at United Car Car, he is a super helpful guy and would have good recommendations

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3142653159?bof=T22pzxBi

I've got one but it doesn't have cats, also it's in Hamilton

I'm quite jealous of you doing it out of the car !! Just doing it with the plastic mock up parts was hard enough in the car ... glad that phase is over Lately just ripping through my first argon bottle practicing welding and prototyping the little jigs I will use to get square tube cuts (especially on the bends / donuts) as I don't have a bandsaw. The laser cutting has shipped from Hamiltron so should see that soon and be able to make the header jigs while I save up to buy the stainless bends ... also looking for a cheaper source as that sh*t is capital E expensive

I was looking at my list of parts replaced (it's big) and the starter was the first thing to actually fail on the car in my ownership. I did buy it with known problems. I had a lot of issues at the start that could have been solved with more knowledge of the car by myself and also a correct diagnosis of the valvetronic motor issue by the mechanic. That alone got thousands of dollars wasted on parts/labour that probably weren't required. But yeah I was thinking while I was in there that if I do the belt and the front pulleys(if needed) that pretty much every ancillary from factory would have been replaced. Wild. I've never really got wrenching on cars before(as they never needed it!) so owning bmws has helped me learn a lot, it's quite satisfying at times. DIY compared to a mechanic also makes it seem cheap(plus fcp euro) so I go overboard in ordering new parts and joining bimmersport has me being proactive in replacing them. Car still has a couple niggles from when I purchased it, oil leak/brakes, so once those parts are on it should be more maintenance bits than big ticket parts. I got the car cheap with the problems it had at purchase, and compared to the going rate for a manual 130i today I'd get what I've put in back if I sold up. Only way I justify it haha.

Anyone got any use for Pre-LCI black/silver alu Msport interior trim pieces, door cards/lowerdash/glove box etc. My pile of BMW bits is getting too big, if anyone wants them yell out and freebies, or they'll get spring cleaned. Probably worth $2000 in 10 years time when 130s Msports become the new E30 325s 😛

Don't recall any silver schmoo, only other place I can think of with copper is the crush washer, but I've not heard of those making flakes like that. Tbh, I wanted an x5 anyway and to repower the e36 anyway

@NZ_InFerno really hoping you can have a period without anything breaking on this. Feels like you’ve replaced every engine ancillary now…

Tis all fun and games, if an m52 consumed 9800L/min it should be making 450-500hp N/A Luckily engines don't work that efficiently. An m50/52 oem head will flow a theoretical 235cfm/6650L/m at max valve lift. And it doesn't spend much time at max valve lift, hence the 190ish crank hp from factory, which would equate to around 3800L/m actual air consumption Even these are relatively rough numbers, the reality is spinning an sc14 (which are diabolical inefficient) nice and fast on an m52b28 is unlikely to push much over 160wkw

As a result of lock-down I finally found the time to do a decent detail and polish on my E34 540iA. I then applied three layers of wax to make the car nice and glossy. Thought this would be a good opportunity to make a post in the showroom to show it off! Car has done over 371,000km so was quite impressed with how nice the paint still looked. Need to get my replacement sunroof painted though.

Hi Doug, I wouldn't be too dismissive. Having seen a few hundread installations that typically are setup to make 8PSi or more...and these having run on 3.2L Engines that have been in enough races. The M54B30 is nothing special apart from having 15mm longer headbolts. The M90 is the same size as the SC14? A lot of factors come into play, and a M122H that produces 600+ HP on a 5.8L Ford modular engine is 2L. A lot of factors come into play and for a mesely 300HP at the crank, I would not invest my money on anything but a M62 (1L) or SC14. The M90's would cost and arm and a leg. An SC14 with a 80mm pulley will be all you need for 8PSI +. Here are some maths, you can input your values as you go. Hope that helps and do whatever works best for you. ====================================== Calculating Engine Liters/min @ 0 Psi Formula: Liters x RPM / 2 = Liter of Air/Min at 0 psi (N/A Motor) Multiply engine capacity (in liters) times maximum engine Rpm. 2.8 liters x 7000 rpm = 19600 liters/minute. Divide this figure by 2 as engine only fills every second stroke. So, 19600 / 2 = 9800 liter of air/min on a naturally aspired M52B28. Calculating Boost Ratio Add the boost pressure desired (5 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure). 5 psi +14.7 psi = 19.7 psi Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (21.7/14.7=1.476) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure. 19.7 psi / 14.7 = 1.34 Calculating Actual Air Requirements at Desired Boost Multiply the boost ratio by the liters/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Liters/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 9800 liters/min X 1.34 = 13132 liters/min Often the question arises if the SC14 is adequate for the 2.8L or even 3L M3’s, They flow more air(1.4L) vs the Eaton M62(1L), and we will be doing some calculations to decide on the correct size of supercharger for your car, you need to know:- 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.4 litres/rev) 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??) 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. eg. Eaton M62 = 12 psi, Toyota SC14 = 10Psi(? Beyond that Teflon on rotors melts?) Calculating Supercharger Rotor Speed Divide the desired air flow (13132L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC14 from the 1G-GZE is 1.42 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required. 13132 / 1.42 = 9248 Calculating Pulley Size Ratio Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys. For an SC14 on a 2800cc @ 5psi boost the desired supercharger pulley ratio is 9248 / 7000 rpm = 1.32  Pulley Size Ratio With an 4″ (103mm) Pulley on the supercharger the size of the crank pulley for this ratio would be 1.32x 4 = 5.28” Note: M52B28 Crankshaft Pulley is around 6” or 152mm, the SC14 differs between 115mm and 125mm, We are using a 103mm pulley.) Final Calculations Pulley Size Ratio –> 6″ (crank pulley) / 4″ (SC14 pulley) = 1.5 Max SC14 RPM –> 1.5 (Pulley Size Ratio) x 7000 (Max Engine RPM) = 10500 RPM Air output with 6″ Crank Pulley –> 1.42(SC14 Displacement) x 10500(Max SC14 RPM) = 14910cc Boost Ratio –> 14910 / 9800 = 1.52 Max PSI Boost –> 1.52 x 14.7 = 22.34 – 14.7 = 7.6 PSI at 7000RPM or 5PSI at 6000RPM – both using the 4” (103mm) Pulley. ===========================================

Manual conversion is worth almost 3k now days

You would have to overdrive the piss out of an SC14 to get close to 8psi at reasonable rpm on an engine that size It's not worth the hassle on an m54b30

But does it connect to the internet so when your subscription ends it stops working?

I think he's bought it.

I have some 420G gearboxes on the way from the UK. Not sure on delivery dates as shipping is so erratic. PM if this is of interest.

Turns out I was very keen 😀 Install was very easy after a quick Google. New stuff looks way better than the tired and worn original factory bits. And being proper bmw parts was guaranteed to fit 🤣. Shout out to @Matt for hooking me up and providing install advice too. Alcantara goodness. Bonus pic of existing fauxcantara mirror Have been driving round with the BMWP pieces fitted for a week or so and it's definitely a much nicer place to be. Only thing is the BMWP shift knob is way, way too small for my hand. Knew this going in but thought I'd give it a try for a bit. So will be looking to swap (or buy) for a different gear knob, keen on a zhp one if anyone has one. Or a factory Msport that isn't worn. Also have another interior piece to go in, assuming I can make it work 😅. Once I tidy up the idrive plastic(probably scratch off the soft touch stuff that's peeled away) interior will be looking really good and refreshed except for the steering wheel. Will be doing something about that! Hopefully will get engine mounts and sump gasket done in the next few weeks. All parts still sitting here. Just waiting on lift space.

So I lent my E87 to my brother in law while we were trying to find an issue with his Holden Colarado. It's a standard 2.8ltr intercooled TD. No engine mods or anything like that. Knew it was a vacumm leak. Took a while and eventually found this. I've seen this happen on high powered petrol cars. Detonation back through the intake. Maybe on something at the drag strip. But I can't think of what would cause this on a Diesel vehicle. As you can see this has been an internal explosion. Nothing can hit the intercooler where it is located in the car. Anyone have any idea? Fixed photo.