Ninjaspartan
-
Content Count
67 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Ninjaspartan
-
-
5 hours ago, Chrisf said:Anyone had wof issues with catless downpipes? Since it's illegal to remove them for street use in NZ
Not sure how primary/secondary cats play into the legislaion, but these cars have secondary catalytic converters as well. So if you have thoses then should be good as a catalytic converter is still present?
From experence never had an issue getting a wof with catless downpipes. -
6 minutes ago, monkeygod11 said:I'm very glad to hear that, not something I want to have to replace with how much they cost, and my LPFP looks fine as well right? So fuel pumps don't look to be an issue.
Correct, LPFP looks good form the parts of the logs I looked over, it hangs around 70psi and sits there when under load. Your HPFP will see lower pressures if the LPFP was bad as well.
Thats a shame about VRSF, I have only had good experiences with them but do hear about stock issues from time to time.
It could be high intake temps, I would expect high temps to cause more issues up top rather than down low. However if you where getting pre ignition to due to hot spots it should throw a misfire code and/or have a code if minor knock was dected.Recomendation would be to start changing items related to combustion and intake, just to rule them out.
Spark plugs (1 step cooler) Not a must but recommend. I used OEM Bosch for a bit with MHD stage 2+ with no isssues (however I did not track it). Only swapped to cooler plugs with a turbo upgrade.
Coils (if not recently replace) Eldor coils are highly rated. Delphi is also very good.
Check for carbon build up on the intake ports.
Check if air filter is dirty.As others have mentioned it is a bit of a guessing game, best thing is to start elimiating options and go from there.
-
11 hours ago, monkeygod11 said:Got back on the track this weekend and logged 3 sessions with MHD (did 4 sessions but forgot to hit the log button first time), my stuttering was present again in each between 2-4k RPM. Had a shadow code for fuel pump plausibility come up but nothing else. I have also noticed my fuel economy has taken a hit, I'm getting 50km less per tank on normal driving and on the track 4 15min sessions used almost 3/4 of a tank!
Thinking HPFP could be my issue maybe? I've put the 3 logs on datazap if anyone who knows what they're looking at would have a look and see if that sounds right that would be awesome.
https://datazap.me/u/grayman11/2021-07-11-log-1?log=0&data=3-23
https://datazap.me/u/grayman11/2021-07-11-log-2?log=0&data=3-23
https://datazap.me/u/grayman11/2021-07-11-log-3?log=0&data=3-23
Your HPFP looks good (really good), stays above 2000psi up top which is more than enough. Once you start dipping below 1500 I would start to question it, but not even then. Your low pressure, (fuel tank pump) will generally go/need upgrading before the HPFP.
When the HPFP is failing it starts to tapper off fast in the higher RPM.
Example:
(It picked up again because boost dropped to 10psi)
Intake temps are high, so you definately want to fit that intercooler when it arrives.
It would be interesting to see how MHD Stage 1/1+ performs as a comparison. If you haven't already could ask eurosurgeon about the tune. was it intended for track use?Also just checking do you have DTC turned on? Pushing DTC button to enable DTC and disable DSC.
-
1 hour ago, jon dee said:Having to do a major re-think on this little project. The pressure vs engine load characteristics of the N54 combined with the huge hysteresis of mechanical pressure switches make setting a 45 ~50psi alarm point problematic. Therefore I am thinking that I shall have to do some old fashioned trial and error experimentation with an electric pressure sensor and a gauge with an adjustable low alarm set-point.
@Ninjaspartan How easy is it to access 12V constant and 12V key switched around the engine bay ? Virtually no current involved so vampire clips would work for the purposes of experimentation.
Cheers...
Yes, I agree it would be rather tricky just using pressure alone. Once warm (100c) I read about 1.5 bar at 700rpm. under load it goes to about 6bar above 2500rpm
Not too sure for the 12v around the engine bay sorry. I already had a boost gauge which I wired into the 12v cigarette lighter. So when installing the oil pressure gauge I could just connect off the existing gauge and run the lead through firewall to the sensor. It is very easy to run a wire through the firewall though.
-
Not bad.
I do wish I went with a more reputable seller for down pipes. The Allexpress special had fitment issues with the exhaust.
-
I have experienced this exact issue, low oil pressure when tracking the car caused a spun rod bearing. I did not have any warning that it was sufferrng from low oil pressure.
Kind of silly how it is just a switch rather than a proper gauge to read pressure at all times.
What I ended up doing as a solution to that.
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, M3AN said:They're some fancy looking gauges @Ninjaspartan, what can you display in the bottom section?
Thanks, I purchased them years ago from albut only got round to fitting the oil pressure the other day.
They just display a digital read of the gauge and the voltage too.-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, HalfJobHarry said:That table is mapped to load not temperature so you can't read the timing correction off directly against temperature...some logic in the programming will enter into that table based on the load an RPM and then apply the timing correction it finds there...but the point is accurate...you'll get timing pulls at high IATs...
Good to know thanks! I thought it was temp as I remember seeing something about timing was reduced after 50c.
Do you know if it is linear based, so higher temps more timing reduction or once X temp is reached it reduces timing based on the load/rpm?
-
Added an oil pressure gauge to go with the boost gauge.
-
1
-
-
12 hours ago, monkeygod11 said:Thanks for that I'm still on the stock intercooler so an upgraded one should be next on the list right? Will the high IAT be causing the timing to be pulled which could be causing the hesitation/stumble? Could be that it needs retuning?
Wasn't letting off on the straights unless I hit traffic and the hesitation happens around 4000 so could be the DME. Nah no left foot braking I'm still a newbie on track so keeping it basic for now.
Happy for the logs on there, looks like a good tool.
Yea looks increasingly likely I need to get my hands on an MHD,
Hot intake temps will absolutely pull timing. This is based on the Tune.
Here are the stock timing reductions based on Temp for the 335is (IJEOS) DME verson. I would imagine its the same as the 335i.
So above 50c its pulling 5.5 to 8 degrees.
Also as John mentioned the two throttle readings are a bit odd. Generally you have throttle postion IE the postion of pedal, and the postion of the actual throttle body. So you have a requested throtle and actual throttle in a sense.As for getting a larger intercooler, yup that is definately something to look at. Especially since you take it to the track.
-
3 hours ago, monkeygod11 said:Another thing to look into! haha will see what I can find out.
Had a little look at the logs and she is running hot and looks to be pulling timing. I see 70c + for IATs (assuming data zap has got everything correct).
No boost reduction, looks to be holding 17psi. I do see the throttle does look to close around 4000 rpm which I'mt not sure if is DME or you are just letting off.
Also are you left foot braking?Here is the link for Datazapme with your logs. (If you don't want them here I can remove) just easy to see/use data.
https://datazap.me/u/ninjaspartan/forum-135i?log=0&data=9-18-20-22-23-24-26&zoom=8598-9091
MHD is pretty good for data logging IMO and checking engine fault codes as well.
-
+1 for Bimmer Geaks
Their support on facebook is incredible.
https://www.bimmergeeks.net/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/BimmerGeeksProTool-
2
-
-
1 minute ago, jon dee said:Minor thread jack... I noticed that my logs show the throttle opening to 80% and staying there when my foot says go WOT. Is that a normal BMW thing ? Something to do with the ECU considering that 80% TPS is optimum for intake velocity/power ?
Cheers...
Yup thats correct at 81. Not sure why but its a normal bmw thing, well on the n54 at least.
-
4 hours ago, monkeygod11 said:So have just discovered I'm not going to be able to get the oil temp logged this Saturday as seems only things like MHD and Carly can get this info on the e82 and I won't be able to get my hands on their adapters in time, anyone know how accurate the gauge on the dash is?
Most intercoolers on aliexpress will be an upgrade over stock. The stock intercooler is tiny.
For the logging, not so interested in the oil temps, more interested in the IAT's, target boost, Throttle position vs pedal position, timing etc.
Re adapters, MHD can work with a D+K can cable or its own wireless adapter. -
Hey, I tracked my n54 335i on MHD stage 1+. I did spin a bearing but that was due to oil starvation.... Fan belt inside the engine from previous owner.
Anyways, that oil temp is fine at 120c, it does depend on your oil type but if its fresh oil before the track day thats fine. The hotter the oil gets the faster it breaks down, where it becomes too thin.
I reached temps of 140c with no hesitation in performance, this was with stock intercooler but catless downpipes. Tranmission is a DCT and I had no over heading issues with the trans during the track day.
I believe 149c it throws a warning for the oil temp.
Unsure of your mods, but if you are at 370hp (quick google of Eurosurgeon tune) on stock systems I would high recomend you go full bolt on (FBO).
As Matthew said, high intake temps will pull timing on these cars.
Also +1 for using MHD, super easy and fast to use, also pretty cheap IMO.
-
20 hours ago, No name user said:These work a treat, i have countless customers using them from strip to drift.
Running through the turbo intake and running eth erodes the cooler out, meth and ally are not good friends.
Free Hp as such, but don't rely on it to cover DET get it tuned right without it, you should pick up easy 50+hp
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264980791794?epid=1559609774&hash=item3db21601f2:g:8iEAAOSwUmhf2~qICheers, yeah would be getting a revision of the tune for sure to make the most out of the setup.
-
1
-
-
Cheers for the Info John.
Was just thinking of having something simple to start with. Will check out the Aquamist kits.
-
2 minutes ago, Michael. said:Might want to edit the title. I was concerned for a minute haha.
Haha, well I do want help with meth.
-
Hi all,
Looking for any recomenations on water/methanol kits. In particular something suited for a 335i n54.
Any experiance on what has worked in the past for this platform (or in general) and what kits/brands to avoid would be much appriciated.
Cheers
Jordan -
On 4/26/2021 at 4:33 AM, Deffed said:Performance and knowledge on how to get performance, budget depends on whats out there and at what price,im rebuilding a m54b30,want to increase compression, get the rpms up,people say you cant get much performance out of ITBs,big cams,thats what i want to use,fuel in big bang exhaust out as fast as possible.
Have you considered the forced induction route? I wouldn't say there is a lot to gain in the form of tuning from the M54b30. Even with all the mods, the most I would estimate about 265hp maybe a bit more for the higher redline.
But if you are wanting to stick with the m54 then go for it!
Not sure what the prices are for s54's of s52's these days but that could be a more cost effective way?
-
1
-
-
In contrast my local dealer has been pretty good over the years. Took the car in for a transmission fault code one time to be checked out (so just diagnostics) and they drove me to work in a b58 340i, guessing that would be the next step from a 335i. (also wass picked up form work when my car was ready). So no complaints there haha.
Also I needed a new crank shaft and it was cheaper at the dealer than anywere else. I even tried direct from BMW Germany.
But I do agree most other parts can be costly when compared to FCP Euro/Pelican parts/ECS Tuning etc. -
57 minutes ago, smiddy said:Thought gull 98- was 91octane with 10% ethanol added.??
I believe Gull is 95 gasoline with 10% ethanol.
-
23 hours ago, jon dee said:OK... concensus seems to be that 98e10 works just as well as BP98 so I think that I will just start filling up at Mobil (2 minutes from home) and save myself a 15 minute drive each way to get BP98. I'm all for brand loyalty but I'm not prepared to have my card knocked back when I am at the head of a queue waiting to pay. I've used the same card at half a dozen other stores in the last couple of days and it works fine on modern terminals. Thanks for the input
Cheers...
Isn't Mobil 98 straight gasoline with no ethanol content? I thought it was only Gull 98 that was e10?
-
I've used Gull 98 for the past 3+ years of owning my n54, no issues other than needing to upgrade the LPFP as the stock one was giving out and could not flow enough, but thats not e10 related.
-
1
-
What's a built bottem end n54 worth?
in General Discussion
Posted · Report reply
Hi all,
I'm just toying with the idea of selling my 335i and was wanting some input on what it is worth. Any input on a ball park figure would be much appreciated as I don't know, thanks!
Short history, took the car for some fun to Hampton downs, spun a rod bearing, crank could not be saved so I put a built bottom end with brand new crank at 158k kms in early 2018.
Some of the mods below, along with the usual things, coils, plugs, water pump etc.
Cheers!