smokenbaby

can you not just get your one plastic welded?

would be cheaper and easier than trying to find MtechII kit.

If anybody wants a good deal on insurance for their modified car give John Rea insurance a call. They are based in New Plymouth and will insure modified cars. Ph 0800 RING JR

They insured my race car for $15000 agreed value. $5000 worth of spares. Seem this is a track car only and does not carry REG WOF there is no road insurance cover. But the car is insured for fire and theft. Transport insurance while it is on the trailer going anywhere on the road. Be it the track or to the wheelalignment guys. Insured while on the trailer at a motel etc.

$300 excess, $462 per ann

I also got my Flamates Group N Rally car insured. He has full comprehensive road insurance including while on a touring stage. Insured for $25000 and $15000 woth of spares. Most insurance companies don't cover while touring as it is still deemed as part of a motorsport event.

His excess is $500 and the premium is $530 per ann. His policy also covers all that mine does, Fire/Theft etc.

They are worth a call for a quote and are very good when it comes to costomer relations.

So ring 0800 RING JR for a quote.

Hope this helps you guys with your insurance woo's.

Car has great history, Started as a Production Race Car, Converted to Pro 7's early 90's

1st Nth Island champ car 2001-2002 season, 8th 2002-2003, 6th 2003-2004.

The motor has done 1 season since a full rebuild by Cameron Jones, 12A Turbo G/Box, Al Marsh Exhaust, MSD "Blaster" Ignition Coils, Rear Disc Brake conversion, Adjustable Front Platforms with 450lbs Carrera Springs and F/Shock Absorbers are only 3 meetigs old, Nolathane Bushes, Willwood Brake Bias valve, 25 & 30mm slide adjustable F/Swaybar, Twin Facet Red Fuel pumps through a 3/8 Fuel Line, 2x set Superlite Wheels,Corbau Seat, Sabelt S/Wheel, Autometer Monster Tach with Shift Lite, 2x Link Lamba gauges, Knock Link, Autometer Water & Oil Guages, 3'' Willians Camlock Harness, 75mm F/Flares 50mm R/Flares, Good Sound Chassis & Body but needs cosmetic Panel Beating and Paint (small touch-ups).

Drive away for only $10500.00

I would most definately was one of the “Drifters” on Sunday. 1st race I stripped the front pads down to steel at end of lap 6 so only had rear brakes for the last 4 laps. Was just throwing it in sideways to slow down. last race sunday my rear tyres went off so even though I had brakes again the rear was as slippery as all hell for the last 2 thirds of the race. It is quite something how a low powered car with an open diff “single spinner” can bag both wheels up and drift.

Car is currently for sale so if anyone knows of someone looking at getting into the sport they can PM me for details.

This is how I vent my road rage in the weekends.

You can buy 2 liniar meters of 200grm twill carbon matting from High Modulus in Auckland for $200 + gst. This is enough material to make the outside skin of the bonnet (two layers of matting) and give you some off cuts to play with later. Resin costs what it costs. You can make the mould out of about 5 layers of Fibreglass and brace it with either a wood frame or a steel one to hold it square and to shape. This also can double as legs so you can lay up your carbon in the mould as if it is a table.

If you want to make flat Carbonfibre sheeting so you can make switch panels/blanker panels etc just mould release some gloss finish melteca. Use a roller to spread some resin out and lay your carbon clothe on top. Roll it down and put some more resin on and another layer of either carbon or fibreglass. Two layers total is well strong enough. This is how I did door panels for my race car and 3 other RX7 race cars. Some rear spoiler end tips (Carbon/fibreglass/carbon Sandwiched between to melteca boards) Dash panels for my Race car etc.

If you are only looking for a single skin bonnet (less the ribs under it and use bonnet pins to hold in place) then it is a fairly simple exercise. If you are after a complete bonnet with ribs then it take a bit longer to do. Basically it is the same technique as Fibreglass. You don't need a an autoclave to produce a good quality piece of work. You will need to use a Fire retardent polyester resin (brings cost up) using polyester resins give a much better finish. Plus you are able to use a roller to add extra layers of resin to the outside of the bonnet once out of the mould. This then allows you to wet and dry and then polish the sh*t out of it to give a deep gloss shine (much the same as 2k clear).

If you want to get carried away you can use pre-preg clothe when laying up but the cost become very dear.

First sorry for not posting earlier, been racing all weekend.

The set pictured are from an English web site. They are for a right hand drive car. The price quoted on their site was 400 pounds. That is $1200 + freight.

My friend Karl (works for MacBuilt in Tawa - MacLennen Automotive race car prep and build division) has said he will make me a set for $600. If he makes a jig while he is at it I am sure he will be able to produce them cheaper. He would need to have firm orders before he goes through the hassle and hard work of doing so.

I will be talking to him again later on this week so will bring the topic up with him again.

If some one in the wellington area is willing to make do with out theirs on their car for a couple of days I can get them copied. It is always much easier to make a set when you have some to look at instead of just making them up as you go. Make a jig and there is no reason why you couldn't make 3-4 sets a day as well as your normal work.

He could make them off this pic but we would then have to measure and scale up.

Hey guys. What company makes extractors for the M20 E30. Am going to do full system but need to find some extractors. A friend can make them out at MacBuilt in Tawa but will cost $600+

Are there any extractors available off the shelf in NZ. If so where and how much.

Ollie. You wont get fuel on the plugs if you have no spark. The computer doesn't fire the injectors until it gets a signal from the Dizzy (spark) once it gets signal it fires the injectors. You don't have a fuel problem so there is no need to change out the fuel pump.. Electronic Dizzy's can stop working without any warning. What you more and like have is a blown ignitor. The ignitor is basically an on/off switch (transistor - miniature relay) It acts the same and has the same function as a set of points.

I was thinking more along the lines of removing the wiring from the strut. Join the wires and tape it back into the loom. It will need to be done at some stage when I put E36 struts in it. So why not do it now. Fair call though, easy fix.

I was on my way to Taupo for the weekend and about 10 min north of Taihape I wanted a smoke. They were in the glovebox and for love nor money do you think I could open the bloody thing. Couldn't turn back and get more as Taihape was shut. Didn't want to wait for Waioru for a new pack. So you could imagine the frustration. My companion freaked when I started kicking the sh it outt of it. She was ended up having a go to after a while. I tell you this, the Germans know how to make the most secure glovebox out. Tried wheel brace, Screwdriver and anything I could. This is all happening on the side of the road at mid night.

The other option is to just unscrew the 2 screws that hold the catch to the dash. This is easily done by carefully pulling the glovebox down and away from the dash. You only need to move it far enough to get the screw driver in. Once the screws are out you can carefully pull the whole lot open. Use a pair of long nose pliers to push the catch back and pop the catch out of the steel lock opening (part of the dash). Unscrew the catch and handle from the glovebox lid and you will find that the little lever that moves the catch when the handle is pulled has broken off. Your only option is the wrecker for a second hand one.

Trying to reach in from behind (firwall end) is pretty bloody hard. You need super long arms and super strong fingers to move the catch. Plus on some models there is a fabric sheet that stops things falling out of the glovebox that stops you from being able to access through the back.

I have got the exact same problem with my '84 320i. Only there is a very slight difference. The previous owner has disconnected the pads from the sensor. There is an earth wire by the looks of it that is flapping around in the wind. This is more and likely earthing it all out and causing the light to come on. I should really trace the wiring and find the fault.

When I have found the fault I'll let you all know how to either disable the pads wear warning light circut or rewire it to make it all reliable again. I will be disabling mine as I don't see a need for it if you keep up with a maintainance routine.

Looks good. What kind of dye did you use to do it,Product name, where you bought it $$$$