smokenbaby

fair point there.

Ok, I know this is a Mitsubishi forum that I am posting, but it has the kit I am after.

Any chance one of you lads/ladies can point me in the right direction.

http://www.lancerregister.com//showthread.php?t=252795

why not the SR8? is the fastest production sports car around the Ring. Have a look on youtube for the video. INSANE.

But the SR4 is all good also.

I'd been pondering whether I should look at buying one of these for ages.

I love the idea of bike engined sports cars and these thing boogy like no tomorrow.

But should finish the M3 first before looking at it seriously.

G'Day mate.

How about a pic of this switch you are talkn about.

May help us jandle wearing rednecks a bit more on identifying it for you.

I will hit the track with it as soon as it is ready. When that will be will be completely determined by how much time, money and energy I want to throw at it at this stage. I am in no real rush as it is just a time filler for me and something to keep me occupied in and around 2 jobs, a mates super saloon speedway car and all the other things I do for people and not ask anything in return for.

So basically who knows when it will be ready.

At this stage i will use it mainly for the Manfeild winter series and the 4 hour enduro at Manfeild and have some thought of running in the BMW open class at some stage.

The one thing I know though, is, when it finally hits the track, it may not be the fastest out there but will look damn good and have a lot WOW to it. I like nice looking cars with all the strickly motorsport feel to them. Presentation is a big thing for me.

It will be a good car when finished and competitive in its own right.

Hot - nice colour choice!

Well for that one guard yes. The rest of the car is Diamond Swarz. I will be painting the whole car jet black as that is 3 of my sponsors cars so it makes sense. Well other than the inside, engine bay, inner guards and underside, they will be gun metal grey with a red pearl. OK yes I know, red pearl on a race car. I have 4ltrs of it from an old road car paint job so might as well use it up.

The panel weighs a whopping 4 oz. the head light cluster weighs?????? who cares, they are heavy. plus, I don't need lights, I can make these at small cost to myself any time I need one, it is an out and out race car and not a half race half road car, even though it is not much in itself in the way of saving weight every little bit helps to remove weight from in front of the front axle line as we all know e36's are nose heavy. And the simple fact that I can/have done it makes it cool!!!!!!!!!!

So why not do it. Costs a fraction to make compared to buying 2nd hand lights every time I get hit.

And to go along with your thinking, what is the point of any of this race car stuff?

But if I read your post in the context I think you are meaning, YES it is a cost effective light weight solution to the standerd head light cluster.

The weight out in front of the front axle line is a problem with E36's. But all cars suffer the same thing.

It is best to always where possible to place the bulk of the cars weight in between the 2 axle centre lines. This helps reduce the pendulum effect that can occur

and unsettle the cars handling.

As I said above, only weighs 4 oz so that is a pretty good saving so far.

There is 30mm clearance from the outer edge of the disc to the wheel, am running the Lug Mount SL6 as there are plenty of them floating around due to the V8 boys replacing them often. So with all the measurements taken in to account I will have 13.6mm clearance between calliper and wheel.

Tires at this stage (standard motor) are Kumho V700's. 245x45x16. More tye may/will be required if/when power output is increased.

pictures for Glen.

Disk, wheel, carbon head light panel and the start of the airbox.

Long time no talk,

$606 + pp is not to bad at all. I only paid $490+ each this time round. I am hoping that by the time I am going to need replacement disks the cost will be back down at the $330 each mark.

Yeah I know, photos are good. But was not going to carry a huge disk into the Telecom test lab with me this morning and I don't have a camera in my car. But will fit to the front of the M3 and take a pic of them in situ for the boys on here.

You you don't mind running a slightly thinner disk (3mm total) you can save $40 each by running the E46 330i semi floaters. They are 325x25mm.

But hey, if you are spending over $600 a disk whats another $40 to get the right part.

Nice and simple brakes really. Front E46 M3 325x28mm semi floaters (OEM parts) 6 pot Wilwood calipers. Rear E36 Brembo disks with 4 pot Wilwood.

I have been watching the price difference including freight to purchase from both UK and USA on the front disks and the price I got them for this morning from Dealer in NZ was on par/slightly cheaper than importing them.

Made a purchase today, just about fell over when told the price.

Few months back when I priced up the front disks (my price) they were $330 + gst each. Today the price has blown out to $690 + gst each. This is all due to the exchange rate at the moment. Was lucky enough though to be able to purchase both front disks for $1102 incl gst. Nice little saving and that can now be channelled into the cost of the front calipers.

When I bought my e36 last year it always cooler than I thought it should. The heater was about as warm as the mother in laws breath. I found that the thermostat had broken as per yours and it had wedged itself open. Was genuine part.

Little bit of an update (yes has been a while, last update was Dec 07) but not much has happened due to being busy.

What has been done then? Well as my last update said, I wanted to spend the xmas break working on it. I did but I am not to sure what I did to her all that time ago. Think it was when I cleaned/prepped and primed the inside. Yes I know, bit slack really.

Since then I had pondered on how I was going to make and mount the seat rails. Had wanted to stay away from the usual 25x25x3 box section welded to some stubs and welded to the floor. I wanted to make sure the seat rails were tied into the cage so in the advent of an impact the seat would not move a huge amount with the floor and slacken the belts. So I had a look at the 406 Super Tourer that was at work to see how they had done it and even though they were simple enough to make they hadn't tied them to the cage. So after a little bit of thought (about 3 weeks) I had come up with the way I have mounted them. Nice and simple and effective. The seat is very solidly mounted.

Then I spent what seemed like all of Winter removing the under sealer from under the car. to do this I had to put her up on a spit so as to turn her on her side. Easier said than done. Now this rubber under sealer the factory uses is a real pain in the arse to remove. Sand blasting doesn't touch it, dipping was out of the question so all i could come up with was a nice sharp chisel and start scrapping it. Was easy to remove like this but took bloody ages due to the flatness of the chisel and the contours of the floor pan. Once I had remove the rubber with the chisel i still had to get the sanding wheel on the grinder and take it all back to metal and remove the small areas of rubber missed. Etch primed her up and then bolted the tank, front and rear suspension back in and took her off the spit.

I changed my mind on what wheels I am running and have now purchased 12 Speedline Magnes/Ali race wheels. Have remained with running 16 inch wheels at this stage of the build.

The next evolution of the car will include more power so I may have to up the size of wheels/tires in the future.

I am now looking at staying away from the factory computer as I will not be running any of the original wiring or OBC. By doing this it opens up a huge can of warms and you have to trick the ECU that all the sensors are being run and the parameters are within spec. To do this you need to put the appropriate resistance on the wire so the ECU sees everthing as being OK. Now this is a pain and if there are any issues experienced then it will be almost impossible to fault find and the ECU will go into Limp Home Mode. Not ideal when you are at the track.

So this brings me to another interesting decision. What should I use for engine management. Link is looking pretty good and from what I can tell the VANOS control should work fine. Even though it will take time to set up correctly. I do have a contact that deals a lot with Turner Motorsport and he is certain that they can help me out with a map so all good. This will make the wiring of the car a lot easier and tidier as I will be starting with new plugs from BMW and then making the new engine loom, connecting to a new chassis loom etc.

I did get the engine and a “broken†gearbox up it in the hole so have been working out a few things. Have an airbox pattern lent from a friend to make a carbon airbox so that will start happening soon. Making a few carbon bits for the inside as per the Super Tourers and not only will these add the Bling factor but will be functional.

An update on the suspension is need but not very exciting. The front arms are going to remain standard for the cheap replacement cost and easily obtainable when needed. Plus, the car is not going to be run super low as my Boss has confirmed the spring heights with an Ex Tourer engineer. At present the front arms are sitting slightly down at the wheel end with the current ride height. This may change slightly once I have got the alignment done and sorted out the finished ride height once the car is together. There may be a need to Spike the bottom of the struts (as Conrad said) to level the arm back out.

Brakes are all sorted now and I know what I am running, just have to open the floodgates in my wallet to purchase.

I’ll try remember to bring some pics to work and post them at some stage this week. But here are a couple to tease you with.

Spectrum Panel and Paint in Paraparaumu are tops in my book.

May be bit far for you to travel but all good.

When you go and get a valve, I would suggest you buy the master cylinder and booster at the same time. The valve is bolted on where the cylinder bolts to the booster. By buying the whole lot you will then only have to change the shaping of the front brake lines to fit the valve. If your car is currently running a cylinder with 2 front line plumbed into it you will need to make a new section up between the cylinder and valve with a 'T' in it as the valve only has 1 port for the cylinder to valve front input.

Is a bit of a pain and I am reserved about doing it. Hence why I didn't fit the valve to my car once I had worked out why the back was locking up first.

Picture attached is not indicative of the actual look of the valve but shows what I mean about the input and output for the front brake lines.

I can only suggest that you have done something wrong with the conversion and that is why the pedal is not returning (linkages don't need adjusting and the booster/master cylinder doesn't need changing unless it has 2 pipes for the front brakes). All you need to do when doing the conversion is to MAKE SURE you put the Bias/Proportioning valve from the donor car in. I did this conversion on my old E30 road car without putting the valve in and it gave it to much rear brake bias. Tended to lock the rears before the front and it was not to fun in the wet when needing to stop in a hurry.

The other thing come to think of it in respect of the brakes staying on, is there may be a fracture in the diaphram inside the booster and this is allowing the vacuum from the motor to apply the brakes and retain pressure. But for this symptom I would have to say that every time you applied the brake it would compound the problem to the point that your brake were locked on and you would stop.

Hope this gives you some insight and you will be able to diagnose the problem.

I am needing a set (left and right) wing mirrors for the above mentioned car.

Prefer silver and doesn't matter how many wires are hanging out of them.

Any colour will be considered.

ring or text 021 745 604

Cheers

real race cars don't have radios!!!

best bet. get yourself some of those ear muffs with the radios in them. that way you may even look like a rally driver on a tuoring stage.

yeah my E30 has clocked over 396000

Hi, need a front bumper support for my E36 race car. Has to be suitable for the M-Tech/M3 front bumper.

Just install it and bleed it normally. If there are fault codes in it though, they would need to be cleared. Are you sure the pump is good one ??

Thanks for that. the pump out of my M3 is an unknown. I am prepared to install it and see. The current pump in the car has an "Intake soleniod" fault. Mainly due to the o-rings seeping fluid and messing up the circut board below. So at this stage the M3 pump is my best bet without spending $$$ on a recon pump.

Am needing to replace my ABS pump (using my un-used M3 pump) in my road car. What I need to know is:

1, do i need to take to BMW to get them to bleed the system (been told valves need opening in sequence by a computer).

2, do i not need to take to BMW and can I just bleed it myself.

On the odd occasion I have replace pumps on non BMW cars in the past there was no need to hook a computer up to open valves to be able to bleed properly.