smokenbaby

That really sucks man. If you can get a trailer and want to take a short drive down to Otaki this weekend you can have (for free) my Face lift rear cut. It comes with one light but no bumper. Straight and is cut in a nice place for stitching on the back of your car.

Ring me Kaelib, 021 425264 today to organise or over the weekend on 06 364 3444 and leave me a message.

As a suggestion, take the rear bumper off as soon as you can and remove the Tech 1 spoiler. This will stop it from staying bent. Make it easier to fix.

I can see you lurking there Kaelib, but I'm taking the wheels muah ah ah

Yes I was lurking. Made the offer on the crane and I pick it up on Saturday.

How much would you be looking at to fit seats from another car to an e30? Would you go to a fabricator or seat upholsterer to do something like this?

Just looking for a ballpark figure excluding the seats.

I did the following back in September. There is no modification to the original rails/mounting points. Took me an hour to complete and they are 100% legal, no cert required.

Have fun.

Step 1, Unbolt your E30 seats from the car.

Step 2, Remove the seat rails from the seats. This is done by removing the Clevous Pin at the front and unbolting the seatbelt latch and Bolts from the opposite side. Once you have done this you can use a large flat blade screw driver to lever the rear mounts off the “swing†pivot.

Step 3, Unbolt the Evo rails from the Recaro's and throw away - you don't need any of them. Keep the Allen Key bolts though.

Step 4, Make new mounts to be bolted to the Recaro's. Use some 50mm X 50mm X 3mm Right angle steel. For the front mounts you will need to cut 2x 50mm lengths. Drill 2x 6.5mm holes to mount to the seat and 1x 8.5mm hole for the rail mount. Make sure you cut the extra off as it will stick out the side and can be dangerous. You can make this look nice by angle cutting the mount into a triangle shape as in the picture below.

Step 5, To make the rear mount, is pretty much the same as the front but you only need to drill 1x 6.5mm hole to mount it to the seat. Once again use some 50mm X 50mm X 3mm Right angle steel. The only other difference is you need to drill a Large (not sure of the size) so you can slide it over the rear Pivot Shaft. This is where you bolt the seatbelt back on. This is now the seat mounted to the rail at the back. Using some washes as spacers you can now mount the front to the rails. See the picture below.

Step 6, Mount the buggers in your car and go for a drive.

If you find that the seat is angled forward when sitting in it (as I did first attempt) just make 2 new front mounts at a longer length ie, still use 50 x 50mm but drill the hole closer to the end. I ended up drilling mind about 10mm from the end. This puts a nice rake on the seat.

http://www.putfile.com/smokenbaby/images/11701

This post has been edited by smokenbaby: Sep 4 2006, 02:00 PM

found da cam YEAYAH!!..

i believe this is the arched version?? my m8 told me it was a rare one..

In that case you make me an offer.

It is no rarer than any M3 rear spoiler.

I'll slap $50 into your account for it. Plus I'll pay shipping of cause.

mail me on smokenbaby@gmail.com if interested.

Thanks

How about buying in some 3.2 evo motors and selling cheap to us poor struggling Motorsport freaks.

If you are heading to manfield this weekend i'll see you there.

Well at least you were able to pass on a good shell and some very tasty parts and recoupe some cost.

How about starting a post for the M3. Hopefully with more pictures.

Is it real - gear indicator doesn't look dog leg. Would make is US spec?

Have a closer look.

1st is across to the left and down. This makes it dogleg. Well at least a dogleg gear knob anyway.

I was just wondering if its just my stupid car or all NZ cars that have this. When a bmw comes out of the factory it should get a 15 digit vin number, usualy starting with W...., and then the last 7 digits will be your chassis number. On my car, I cannot find the original VIN number anywhere, just the chassis number and the NZ VIN number (of which the last 7 digits aren't even my chassis number).

I rang team McMillan and they don't have it in their system either (they found this interesting), they only have my chassis number. When i look in my engine bay, under the windshield, i only have my chassis number written there too.

Is this strange or normal?

thanks in advance.

Maybe your car is a cheap Thailand knock off. Na just joking. I pick up my M3 tomorrow from the wharf (left hooker) so will have a look where mine is for you. If I don't post it means I have nothing new to report.

Good luck with your search.

go the Alpina's.

Edited this post due to my reading of one and posting in this one.

Sorry for any confussion if you read my un edited post.

my bad, ill try my best

I understand where you are coming from with your statement “who cares if I c rash itâ€.

I will take it the way you ment (no dig at anyone) Little out lay so if you have a moment on the track and bend it, not a great amount lost.

Mine has about 230mm of flex line, and 80mm metal line. If you're going for all flex line I'd make it a little longer, say 350, to allow for the bend off the fitting on the slave. I guess the metal piece keeps the flex line off the body, doesn't seem to hit anywhere. With all flex line I wouldn't be surprised if it rubbed on the body because of the way it has to go, may cause problems?

I would be making longer than 350mm. The radius of the bend required would be to tight for the flexi to bend without skinking. Why do you need to remake it?, why not just buy a new one from BMW and be done with it cost is $230 ex Germany.

You can also reuse the steel tube from your one and get a new fitting and flare put on the end (to replace the crimp) and then get a flexi made up that has both ends the same as the original non crimped end. Any Hydrolic guy could do it. This will make things easier in the long run and shouldn't cost to much.

the car is the Ex- Tony Roberts Corvette, It has a MANZ homlogated cage,It has a rear Rollover hoop in the cage, but the front rollover hoop goes up under the dash only,similar to Grand-Prix cars.'the officials somehow don't see this bit'

The trouble is, MANZ have uprated their specs since this car was built [everytime there is a new official, I seem to get the "Riot-Act" read to me]

It may pay for you to get the cage re-homologated. This could be a pain in the ass but am sure Julian will see the merit of it. At least then you have an up to date homologation on it. You would have to be careful of cause that MANZ don't try and outlaw the cage and make you put a new one in. This would destroy the pedigree/historical presense of the car.

I once had a Scrutineer tell me I needed to change the bulbs in the back of my RX7 for the rain lights to be 21w. I told him to piss off and to stop being silly. When he asked me more forcefully (was going to exclude me from the meeting) I complied with his request. When I represented the car he failed me due to the fact I had no brake lights. Well that is what happens when you change a 5w/21w duel filiment bulb with a 21w single filiment bulb. He told me I was a smart ass and to change it back to FACTORY so I put the old bulbs back in. When I asked Julian about this he told me there was no such rule and the Scrutineer was a plonker. How does one hold respect for idiots that can't use common sinse.

Oh well, these things happen.

If You pm me, I know where there is a 325 manual E36 getting parted out ,you could get your running gear from there

My Ex-Wife Couldn't understand why I "needed" 5 race cars,[apparently do whatever you f***ing want, didn't mean what I thought]

Thanks for the offer. I need to be careful how and when I spend money on this project.

I know exactly what you mean in regards to “do whatever you f***ing want, didn't mean what I thought†have been there done that and believe me it hurts.

Kerry, I am oh to familiar with the MANZ requirement due to my 10 year history with them.

Just to clear a few things up for peoploe reading this post.

1, I am going to be building this car to be eligable with OSCAR,Sport sedans etc. First I am going to get back to the enjoyment of racing and not chase a series. That will come later.

2, The car will remain 6 cyl. Would be great to slip a super touring 4 cyl in but the cost involved in keeping it together.

3, The cage will be the same spec as a super tourer in the respect it will have the same amount of bars in the same location but will more and likely be made from mild not chromoly.

4, 2ltr Touring car or 2.5ltr Bathurst motor was mentioned due to the fact my friend has them both in his garage. They are not being used and will be available for me to buy. These are being considered only due tothe fact that this will save some cash to start with. The car I bought is a rolling shell. No motor, box interior etc.

Updates will be posted as I go.

I'll look forward to seeing that.

You know someone who has Supertourer parts? Send me a list, we might buy them.

Outside of Lyall, I'm unsure of anyone who has these laying around, outside of the 3 people who own the 4 cars in NZ.

If you want help sourcing stuff, let me know.

It'll make a nice addition to the open class racing. (Although an E36 M3 with a 4 cylinder motor, might not be eligible).

Sorry, should have made it slightly clearer. The motor and spares I am referring to are t\from the ex Harris ex Beird ex Richards E36 325i NZ 2ltr Touring car. Aaron Harris is a very good friend of mine and still has most ofthe spares he had when running the car, the only Supertouring parts will be a cage built to the same spec. Sorry for the confussion.

I'll definately be in contact re: part sourcing. Also if you don't mind me picking your brain for info. I have been trying to find info on the Supertouring cars but have drawn a blank. As I don't know Lyall personally (I know of him and International Motorsport) I am sure he would not be forth coming in passing info to me. Pretty much the same as Reg Cooke and Dastun info.

Gus, Left hook is ideal for race car as the BMW motors slant over to the right hand side of the car. By sitting on the left it helps with weight distribution. Plus it is much easier to fit some tasty Exhaust Manifolds as there is no steering knuckle to get in the way.

The Seats, commonly known as vaders due to their looking like Darth Vader's helmet.

Right, I get you now. Car comes with out seats so you are out of luck there sorry. If they were included you would have been more than welcome to them.

Sounds badass!

What you doing with the vaders and the M3 rims?

Excuse my thickness but what do you mean “vadersâ€.

I'm keeping the wheels sorry.

Well I have been putting off building a new race car for a while now. The girlfriend wants a house and my parents have only just got their garage back after 10 years.

Why did I decide to build another car? it may be from itchy feet watching good friends racing. But more and likely that fact that I need a project.

E36 rather than E30, was looking around for a cheap E30 coupe to build but was a little disheartened at the lack of good Facelifts at the right price. While searching Trademe I came across an auction for a lefthand E36 door. The photos in the auction showed a whole car so left a cheeky message requesting a price for the complete body. As it turns out it is a Genuine E36 M3 Lefthand drive. The price was right and the steering wheel on the best side possible for a race car. The other reason I choose the E36 is a good friend of mine still has all his E36 Touring car spares of which I am going to buy off him over the build period.

Basic specs will be:

Supertouring spec cage.

Either full house 2ltr touring motor or 2.5 Bathurst motor.

M3 close ratio dog box with Dog engagement (no Syncro's)

Motorsport LSD

Koni coilovers all round

16" BBS Lightweight Motorsport wheels

You get the drift.

This is going to be built over a long period to make sure every detail is followed. Not just a rush job to get it on the track.

This is a nice GTR inspired kit from the states. and it is on a race car so that makes it better. It can be yours for US$2500

FWD - There are a few turbo kits for it that bring it up to around 190 rwhp - it would be a weapon.

Not doing anything untill it's out of warantee though.

Just to be picky, I think you mean fwhp. Unless the turbo actually give you rear drive configuration instead of front.

Just a small detail.

I do like these little bastards, have been thinking about one for the Girlfriend. Going to get one as a test car for a few days to see it it suits.

Turbo'd one would be insane. Crazy little Jappers.

hey i have a 325i e36, the ECU needs to be reprogrammed due to something stuffing up who does this kind of work?

If it is a factory computer you should be able to get your local BMW dealer to do it.

" FOR SALE "

E30 Interior

Rear Seats including head rests in good condition no rips

Door Cards (trims) Good condition

$150 Or near offer...................

Ph: 0273348013

Can you post pics to show what colour and material pattern please.

Rota's use alot of gas because every cycle has a power 'stroke'. not 1 out of every 4.

Same reason as some racing trucks are 2 strokes. They are able to create more power over a shorter amount of time.

Depends on what has been done to the motors ie, ported and running an IDA or turbo.

Standard 12A Pro7 spec engine only used 90ltrs of 91 octane while doing the 4 hour at Manfield. We detuned it slightly (took out some ignition advance and slightly richer jets) to make sure it stayed safe and reliable and we only dropped half a second a lap with full tank of gas (normally run half tank)

All in all they are pretty much the same as their equal power rated piston motor. The harder the right foot is pressed the faster the gas neddle runs away.

Yip, my OEM rear discs were cracked when I replaced them with some Brembos, I don't think they were meant to handle the heat that track braking generates. Got to learn to leave car in gear instead of using hand brake after tearing it up...is a common error for beginners (aye Udit) and I suspect that's what cracked mine - and they were severely cracked too!!!

If the rears are getting that hot I would be looking at a bias valve to try and taper some of the braking force away from the rear. You can also try running a cooling hose to the rear disk (be warned - it ultimately needs to cool both sides not just one or you will run the risk of warpage). It is never a good idea to put handbrake on once you get back to the pits, you will experience the problem above with rear brake sut up like on the E30 (subaru is the same). You will also boil your brake fluid inside the rear caliper if the hanbrake uses the rear caliper.

Many things we learnt with PRO7 in the early days.

Bump!!

Looking pretty bloody good there man.