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NZ_InFerno

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Posts posted by NZ_InFerno


  1. On 5/3/2021 at 11:59 PM, NZ_InFerno said:

    Think it was listed at 9k initially. Looks like it's price has been dropped to try and sell. 

    Nothing nefarious there but given the kms and age it's got a few potentials for a big repair bill:

    Clutch, PCV, Vanos Solenoids, Coils, suspension and bushings, engine/gearbox mounts, Various Gaskets for oil leaks etc. 

     

    To follow up on this, the same people have listed another silver manual 130i with lower kms on trademe. They should be in the thread with that much 130i love 

    https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/search?member_listing=1952262

    • Haha 1

  2. 3 hours ago, duluth said:

    https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3064396659?bof=7D5mOTV1

    What are peoples thoughts on this ... a manual for 7k. Must have some glaring issues as i swear its been relisted about 3 times in the past month or 2.

    Think it was listed at 9k initially. Looks like it's price has been dropped to try and sell. 

    Nothing nefarious there but given the kms and age it's got a few potentials for a big repair bill:

    Clutch, PCV, Vanos Solenoids, Coils, suspension and bushings, engine/gearbox mounts, Various Gaskets for oil leaks etc. 

     

    3 hours ago, duluth said:

     

    • Like 2

  3. Yeah, the BMW Performance shifter looks really nice, especially with aluminium trim kit. 

    But it's quite small in hand compared to the standard shifter. Feels like a child's toy. I've gotten used to it but would definitely take a stock one over it in terms of shift feel. 

    One of these days I'll order the zhp but I'm barely driving my car atm. 


  4. It seems like you know most of the the faulty parts, get a bmw dealer quote on them would give you a worst case scenario. 

    Personally unless the car was super cheap I would find another as you've got a couple of rabbit holes there, without getting into stuff like waterpump, coils and other maintenance bits that likely needs doing considering the current state of the car. 

    • Like 1

  5. Was having a browse on Japanese auction listings and noticed only a couple of manuals, going for around $12k NZ ( 120k+ kms and shipped here). Autos are still priced where I remember ($6-8k and plentiful) from when I last looked a couple years back. 

    Will keep an eye on it and see if they're becoming more scarce, thus pricier to import. 

     

     

    • Like 2

  6. 3 minutes ago, KwS said:

    Yeah that reads exactly like @NZ_InFernos fault. I'd be looking at replacing the valvetronic motor and sensor. The motor is the easy one to do, so i'd start with that, but oil in the sensor isnt a good sign.

    Just re-read it and sounds like he's got the rocker cover gasket off atm, so replace the lot while access is good. 

    Hopefully they unwound the valvetronic motor correctly when removing the rocker cover. Reinstalling it is a little tricky. 

    • Like 1

  7. I had a quite similar issue (it sounds like the same issue tbh) that caused no end of problems(car would run badly and die, down on power), but with no fault code ever occurring 🙄. The valvetronic range was not correct when checked in inpa, I can't remember the exact numbers but it was off, and the calibration in inpa would reset but then didn't do anything. The power on test, before starting the engine, when the vvt motor should go through a full range(click to click), it didn't do it at all. 

    It was narrowed down to the valvetronic motor, after cleaning the vanos Solenoids, replacing the initially suspected eccentric shaft sensor and having all the wiring checked. The valvetronic motor has been replaced previously so that's why it wasn't suspected. 

    Myself and @KwS(mostly KwS tbh) changed the valvetronic motor. I also changed the valvetronic electrical control module at the same time. Mostly because everything else in the electrical chain had been checked or replaced, and I wasn't 100% sure it was actually the vt motor itself causing problems.

    After running the inpa calibration, and maybe dme calibration? the car ran mint and has done since then.

    I did a write up of it in my 130i manual thread, you should have a read of. 

    I would suggest you change the valvetronic electronic module, it's $20 from fcpeuro. If that doesn't work then do the vvt motor, maybe both at the same time but the motor is much more expensive at $150US, plus you need the gasket. Photo below is the module and valvetronic motor gasket for a pre lci! Lci have a different type of gasket for the valvetronic motor(real OEM is your friend). Not sure if the module is different between lci/pre-lci but worth checking realoem anyway. The module lives underneath the fusebox on the passenger side of the engine bay. It's easy to follow the wiring from the vt motor to it. Realoem will also show it. 

    IMG_20210205_222819.thumb.jpg.59b26b2c98871f770a7681dda41804d3.jpg

    Also you noted that there is oil on the eccentric shaft sensor. From reading online trying to diagnose my problem that is a bad sign, and can cause faulty readings and sensor to fail. So it may be the sensor causing the issue. But if all the readings from it are good, clean it and pray its not the sensor otherwise that's about $250 US from fcpeuro. 

    Hope this helps

    • Like 1
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