Jump to content

Bener

Members
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Bener last won the day on November 13 2019

Bener had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Good

About Bener

  • Rank
    1st Gear

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Ben M
  • Location
    Northland
  • Car
    1997 E39 528i
  • Car 2
    Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yep it's been pressure tested with no issues. Also, no coolant smell. Thanks for the advice, I've got a bunch of things to check now!
  2. >>Was the car overheating before these components were replaced? Is it still overheating now? Yes it was, and after the last top up it's stopped overheating. Will take the bottom cover off and check the plug. Thanks for the info! I just did that fan test (people say use a rolled up newspaper) because they're meant to be a failure point on the E39. I actually though when the clutch was fully engaged it would be unable to be stopped.
  3. Hi all, I've got a really tidy 1997 E39 528i. It's just gone over 100,000km and it's worth looking after (in my opinion). My issue is that I may have a head issue - I've replaced water pump, thermostat housing, radiator and fan clutch. I got the local euro mechanic to do the radiator and fan clutch last week, and it was fine for a week. Then it overheated again on a short trip (not off the scale, but up to the red). I tested the viscous fan and I could stop it fairly easily with a rubber stick, I'm not sure if that's a valid test but it didn't seem to be that hard to stop. Mechanic reckons it's all good. The problem is I'm losing water slowly. I checked on the day it overheated and it was down near the bottom of the reservoir. I really can't see anywhere else the water would be going. I had an idea that it may have been an air lock type scenario (I know they are hard to bleed) but it doesn't make sense that it's losing water. It still seems to be dropping a bit, although it's really slow. Temp has been fine. Mechanic came and did a Co2 test on it (one of the hand pump things with the blue liquid) and seemed pretty confident it wasn't the head. It has no other symptoms - running mint, no oil in water or water in oil, no smoke. I've had cars with bad head gaskets before and it was a mess! Anything I'm missing or any suggestions? I can't think of anywhere else the water could be going. And is a head job even worth the cost? If it was a few grand I would consider it but I'm not sure what I would do if it's much more.
  4. Awesome advice, thanks! I've done the same for other vehicles I've owned, good to hear this works for BMW. That's a really nice 540i, have you got it all running now?
  5. Wow nice info - do you know if I need a convertor for round to flat pins to fit one of these? I'm a little but confused because like you say it looks like Sept 2004, but the SW version is only 42, and other threads say you need software version 43 or higher - I'm a bit wary about getting a unit shipped over that just doesn't work with my setup! I would probably get one of the BMW genuine AUX adapters as I'd like to use my own bluetooth adapter kit, but other than that your suggestion looks perfect. I'm having trouble finding any ones at good prices when I search BMW CD53 - what did you search to find this one?
  6. I missed your comment here @hqstu when I replied to the last one - is there some kind of model number or search term I could use to find this particular model on Ebay? I'd love to go the full-factory method to get a nice clean sounding AUX with the factory stereo.
  7. You mean getting a business CD unit from after 09/2002 and then getting the genuine BMW aux adapter? I would like to do that but I think it would be difficult to source one for a decent price!
  8. Thanks @BozzaFC, @adro and @hunter, I'll wait to hear from the guys at GROM and order what they recommend. I'm actually considering just going for AUX only, if one of them is compatible. I would prefer not to rely on the mic and bluetooth of the adapter hidden in behind the HVAC. There's a few really decent and discreet bluetooth kits to choose from that will do a better job I'm hoping. Good to know they fit in there, I found a few that you hook up in the boot which seems crazy.
  9. Thanks @BozzaFC I will definitely look into that one. I'll flick you a message at some stage.
  10. Hey @adro and @BozzaFC, did your GROM kits fit behind the stereo or in the boot with the CD changer?
  11. I certainly do - thanks for the offer! I was hoping this forum would be a great source of helpful info. I'll be getting the mechanic to do the trans oil + filter, but most other stuff I'd do myself. He's given me a really good price to do a worn rack end, the only issue spotted after a full inspection, which has made me quite happy. I might just get him to do that, as it includes a wheel alignment and I don't want to wreck the nice Toyo Proxes that are on there... I'll be keeping a close eye on the cooling system, according to the mechanic it is in great condition, and a few hoses have been pre-emtively replaced already, but I know how much of a concern these can be at times.
  12. Thanks for the input @adro, I've sent a message to GROM to see what options will suit my model. They all list 1998 onwards, but the support guy has just asked for some pics so I'll update once I get something sorted.
×
×
  • Create New...