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Showing results for tags 'e36'.
Found 146 results
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All part of the garage clean out.........must have more space 1)Set of five schnitzer monobloc rims 16x8 inches ET35.2 slightly scuffed three are perfect.With centre caps. Suit e30 M3 E36 M3 and others.5x120 stud pattern CB 72.5 $600 the set plus freight.Can deliver to Mainfreight, place on pallet and on send to you.Seems to be the best freight option around NZ.Bought for a project but changed direction........On Trade Me too need the space in garage for other stuff! 2)Schnitzer Rennsport made by Ronal (type 2) with the peg holes.Three piece rim.Set of four 17x8 and 9 inches et 35 front and 45.5 rear.Slight scuffing but an easy fix to polish out.Centres are perfect. Suit E36 M3 E46 and others 5x120 stud pattern CB72.5 Very rare rims The discolouration in the photo is coppaslip.Bought for a project but changed direction again... $1200 the set THANK YOU SOLD 3) Set of five (3 F 2 R) BMW style 39 DS11.17x 7.5 and 8.5 inches.As fitted to the E36 M3 Evo coupe.Almost perfect but not quite.Fitted with Continental Contisport (6mm+)to the front and Goodyear premium(7mm) not quite sure of the style on the rear Spare is a new Michelin. Tyres are not that new but with even tread wear and no high or low spots.I refurbed another set of rims and fitted Michelin PS3 all round so these are surplus.And taking up space. $850 the set including the tyres. THANK YOU SOLD Pm or call 0297774006 And thank you for reading
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Hello BMW enthusiasts, I just joined bimmersport and thought I would introduce my BMW's. My daily driver is a 1996 E36 323i, nothing special other than it being a really clean original car: The car I really enjoy owning though is my NZ new 1995 E34 520i, factory manual (I know: how the hell does one enjoy a 2L 5 series?). I have had the car for about a year and a half now and pretty quickly realized that E34's are for me. Here are some recent pics: It is rough at the moment no doubt, but its a work in progress and will be for some time. In fact I'm actually in the middle of doing an engine swap. I'm replacing the M50b20 with a latter M52B28. It doesn't even have the 2L anymore: Anyway maybe that's too much for the intro but it gives you some idea I guess. By the way I recently started photography as a hobby so if your interested feel free to check out my Flickr (link in signature below). I have few more pics of my car there.
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Hi there, I have an E36 M3 track project and I'm looking for: X brace left and right brake cooling ducts for front bumper Also needing strut braces fr & rear, square setup 17x8 or 17x8.5s ET around 40 used or new semi slicks R888, NT01, DZ03G etc probably 225/45/17 or whatever fits on those rims and clears coilover struts etc and a pile of other stuff but will post as I work through it. Many thanks for any offers, suggestions and advice. PM me or email hagen@nztcinternational.com
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Hi Guys, I was at a pick a part and i scored some nifty vinyl and cloth seats out of a Porsche 928! They need a bit of love in the form of restitching but ill get that done later. Theyre surprisingly very similar to the size of an E30 seat, which is great, and they look friggin' awesome too, and being manual operated seats i dont need to worry about wiring. But for now id really appreciate some help on getting them in. I realise that the seat belt is attached to the existing seat in my '85 sedan E30. I was wondering if i could grab the seat belt rail out of a coupe and install them? That'll take care of the seat belt issue. And then i can get some plates fabbed up for the seat rails which shouldnt be too difficult. So on to the back seats. For obvious reasons i didnt get the 928 rear seats. BUT, i was thinking of going E36 leather rear seat, which comes with the middle arm rest (im hoping it lines up with the ski pass in the E30. I plan to knock out the metal and put hinges and a lock on it so i can open and close it from inside the cabin). I have seen the E36 leather rear seats being retrofitted into an E30 on a forum, but for the life of me i cant find it and trust me i have searched. I want to know how this can be achieved, or at least be pointed in the right direction. I know it is possible, but i need help on how. I think the 928 seats once recovered in black will look super mega awesome balls with a e36 black leather rear seat. Ill try get some photos up ASAP. But seriously, any help would be much appreciated! So in advance, thanks guys!
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Hi all, Have an excellent condition 1997 MSport 328iT for sale. All the details are on Trademe - http://www.trademe.co.nz/838278744 $9700 ono Cheers.
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Hello bimmersport, I intend to buy some angel eyes for my '95 325i coupe from ebay, and I'm wondering if anyone has experience with any? Any recommendations would be gratefully accepted. -grurgle
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Hey guys Just looking for a 318i e36 diff in the auckland area if there is any out there.
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Sadly selling my immaculate car as it isn't getting the use it deserves- too busy with business commitments. It's factory standard, done 200kms, factory NZ New Manual, full black leather interior, all the info/photos are on the TradeMe link below: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=812511291 Asking $4200 ONO- Phone me on 027 355 1245 if interested. Thanks
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Looking for an m52b28 with a manual 5 speed zf gearbox and driveshaft. may also be looking for an m52tub28 with loom and ecu to convert into an e36! any help you be greatly appreciated thanks
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Friend of mine has a 328i that is begging for a third pedal. We need all the parts to make up a full conversion kit. Located in Christchurch and willing to have items shipped.
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Over working on my car and not really in a position to keep taking it to pieces which is a real shame. It has only recently become apparent to me how much I just need to have a cheap run about instead of using my project car as a means to get from A to B so hence why I am seriously but reluctantly going to try to sell this. I have spent some hours on it so I wouldn't be happy with just giving it away so if I don't get the right price I will just hold on to it and probably park it up somewhere until I can be bothered to take the project back on and get it really nice, that may be some time though. I thought I might have a couple of decent pictures of it lying around but only this at the moment: The body work is pretty good although there are a few scratches here and there, the paint on the roof and the rear doors back has faded. It has a new engine with 132,xxx Kms on it. Radiator is new Engine oil recently done Brake rotors have been resurfaced Power steering fluid Steering bushing replaced New Brake fluid New gear box oil converted to manual (Getrag 240) Crackless dash in great condition. Battery retro fit relocated to boot 2 sets of wheels, tires. Lowered rear suspension and camber (untastefully low, not done by me. Not sure about the front) Sub, amp, 6x9's and head unit I will try and get some better pictures and some more information if anyone on here is actually interested. I thought I would start on bimmersport as I have the old engine and some spare parts I wouldn't mind getting rid of with the car if it does sell. So an enthusiast might be after the whole lot who knows. Anyway cheers.
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Hey im pretty new to the whole adjustable suspension scene. I am looking at buying some bc gold adjustable suspension for my 328i e36, iv read a heap of forums about them but cant find anything about using them in a daily driven car. I know they will be a whole lot more stiff and will handle a lot better, but im just wanting to know if anyone knows how they are in a daily driver with the right setup, so if anyone can help it would be awesome.
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looking to replace standard intake on my 318is e36 with a custom itb setup i can weld up flanges and all fab work but i just know ill get stuck on the sensers and air flow meter any help would be much apreciated cheers guys
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Hi all, Just a couple of pics before and after I had my E36 MSport Leather seats refurbed - took 2 days to do at $230 per seat (ex GST) and had the armrest done too , the difference is amazing I think you'll agree
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Hi all, hoping someone may be able to give me a guide here. My E36 Convertible has been having some interior work done and is currently at a leather repair place, they have had the roof down most of the day to fix the interior and now when trying to put the roof back up the following occurs: The roof cover raises as usual to its usual position then at this point the convertible roof usually starts to raise (while keeping the switch pressed) but there is no sound like the motor running, just nothing happens. When I press the roof button down the cover goes down to about 90% of its usual position, so it sits proud about 6 inches from the rear head rest then the windows start to raise as normal. If its any help to anyone the boot will not open at this point but if I apply a little pressure to the cover I can hear what sounds like central locking kicking in and the boot will then open. I have no idea what is up, I have checked fuse #7 which I have read may be a fuse for the roof but its fine. Anyone got any ideas or can recommend anyone in Auckland who is good around this problem Thanks in advance - Al
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Front seats out of a E36, don't know which model. Tidy but could do with a good clean. $90 Pick up preferred 20 minutes from Manukau off ramp, but on lucky day I may be able to deliver in Auckland for some beer.
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My brothers just got his learners so I'm attempting to fix up my old E36 320i so he can have it for his first car. The main issue is the Japanese auto box. It's always had a fairly brutal first to second shift when cold but after some hard yards being driven (spiritedly) daily over the Rimutakas and back as my commuter, it now refuses to change from first to second unless I button off the gas completely. I think it's probably beyond a simple oil change now but I rang up Jeff Gray to see what the oil's worth regardless...Retail is about $90/L and best price through my mates garage is between $50-$70p/L. Given the above prices, it looks cheaper to find a second box with the torque converter still on it, and the liquid gold still in it... Is there an aftermarket alternative to Dexron III that will do the job properly these days?
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Selling to make room for new engine, offering it up to bimmersport guys first before tardme. M50b25tu vanos engine with 22x,xxx km on it. Doesn't seem to use water or oil (have only done 1000kms if that, since I have owned it/the car). For $700 You will get: · E36 Engine · Starter motor · Alternator · Power steering pump, lines and e36 steering rack · Viscous fan and coupler · Intake with all components (apart from airbox) · Engine loom with 413 ecu-non EWS (auto) · Exhaust manifold · Auto transmission (may have loom, computer and shifter) · Drive shaft · Used Manual E36 flywheel, pressure plate, two clutch plates and manual starter motor. Have a few other parts for sale too like radiator and aftermarket exhaust. Would like the buyer to pick up (hence the cheap price), I will pull it out for you. All located in Rotorua. Niroy
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I hadn't driven my E36 for a month and the battery died which resulted in what seems to be a whole system reset. My key fob would no longer activate my central locking or alarm. I've been trying to reprogram it using every procedure I've come across on the net but nothing has worked so far. Here a few things I've tried: Have been leaving the battery disconnected so I open the boot and reconnect. The car's hazard lights will start flashing with no siren (haven't heard the siren ever since the battery died anyway). Then I tried a number of procedures: Open the boot, open the drivers door, get in and close door, put key in and turn to 'on' (dashboard lights up) five times quickly, open drivers door and close again (the alarm light on the centre console flashes differently, I haven't been able to tell how), pull key out (have leaved in as well) and using my three button key I hold the unlock while pressing the lock button three times then let go and see the remote light slowly flash, get out of the car and either close the drivers door or leave it open and go close the boot and then the drivers door if I need to. Test the remotes and never work. The siren doesn't chirp after the five key on-offs. Same thing when I try more simple procedures without the boot open or much door opening and closing. I feel like I'm close with the way the alarm central console light changes its flashes; it varies between a consistent on-off and two or three quick on-ons before one longer off. I think there was only one time I started the procedure and the car didn't have its hazards flashing and the alarm light on. Does anyone know any other procedures or if something might be wrong with the car?
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Hey team, I've had my M3 about a month, and the plan is to gradually restore it to factory spec and condition (yeah, I know I know... ). The only obvious aftermarket parts are the exhaust and the suspension, and I'm looking to swap out the exhaust for an OEM one. I don't really know anything about it, but it's louder than standard and I'm not a fan. I understand the M3 exhaust system essentially has two sections (headers to cat, and cat to tip), and I'm not sure if my car has upgraded both or not. I'd be happy to provide details of the system I've got but am not too sure what to look for. Where do I look for stamps/indications of brand/part no. etc? Is it just the bore diameter that matters? Basically I'm looking for a direct swap with another E36 M3 owner who wants something louder with a bit more flow (potentially?). If anyone's interested, I'd be keen to park up side by side somewhere over the summer and do a transplant. James
