MLM 57 Report post Posted November 15, 2011 Im going to swivel it in the sump so that it swings arround and ends up between runners 3 and 4. I have checked this out with the spare sump and the oil level registers correctly. Ends up looking very tidy and is convieniently placed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1039 Report post Posted November 16, 2011 Good stuff man, really starting to come together! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted November 23, 2011 Cheers, slow progress is still progress haha. Continuing a theme of regular baby step updates.. Completed one of the sump baffles after work. Shows the oil control flaps fitted. Oil will flow into the pick up area under braking and be restricted from flowing away from the pickup under acceleration. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 4, 2011 Actual progress this time. Tube bends arrived during the week which were cut to suit and the backing plate holes cut and shaped.I built a jig to test fit and align it all and make the welders job easier. Hope to get it welded up this week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1039 Report post Posted December 4, 2011 Nice work .. what did the runner length end up being ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZLSAF 0 Report post Posted December 4, 2011 I have just had the time to skim through this build and had to stop to commend you on the brilliant work you have done especially in regards to the attention to detail, looking forward to following the progress Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 4, 2011 Cheers guys, The runner length is approx 420mm to the valve head. 440mm in cad world but the velocity stack acts as a shorter tube so im told. I have yet to physically measure the length. I calculated this as producing a torque cure which maintains the bottom end for a usable street engine. Will see on the dyno if my guesses were close... The ends of the runner tube will be machined with a step which allows the stack to slip in the tube. This gives me some scope for altering the length. ID is consistant between runner tube and stack but the wall thickness on the tube which allows this step. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) Back from welders. Needs a bit of a cleanup. In place in the car. There need to be a few minor adjustments made to get it to sit how I want it as things moved a few mm during welding. nothing to major. Edited December 9, 2011 by MLM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
5amchris 45 Report post Posted December 9, 2011 looking very nice Matt! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 16, 2011 Final install shot. Shows new dipstick location, sensors attached and ready to run. Will need to relocate battery to the boot as per other e36 models for extra clearance. Staggered trumpets are looking good and it all fits in nicely. Next steps to complete intake. -Relocate battery -Buy filter -Cut hole in filter box for filter tube -Buy flexi tubing to connect plenum to filter box Considering headers and exhaust before final tune. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1039 Report post Posted December 16, 2011 Considering headers and exhaust before final tune. Wise move Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 17, 2011 Have asked Santa for various tube bends.... Will have to revive my CAD model to sort a design with equal/correct length. Its a bit useless having a flash intake without the exhaust to support it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 120 Report post Posted December 17, 2011 and cams.. Surely santa can provide Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted January 30, 2012 So Santa wasnt very forthcoming with cams but did drop a bunch of tubes down the chimney. CAD model Progress to date. Clearance arround the steering shaft has influenced the layout though now the runner lengths will be equal and more free flowing than the factory jobbie. Diameters,lengths etc calculated from formula so wil be interesting to see if it works.... and if i can make it fit at all.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eddie 66 Report post Posted February 2, 2012 4 into1? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted February 2, 2012 4-2-1. This seems to be the recomendation for a street car to improve bottom end. Somthing that will be useful in a heavy e36.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted February 8, 2012 not sure if your interested but im having cams done for my m42 that wont cost you the earth and lash caps to go with them for an easy install Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 8, 2012 not sure if your interested but im having cams done for my m42 that wont cost you the earth and lash caps to go with them for an easy install What replacement lifters are you using Steve?? Or are you modifying the originals ?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted February 8, 2012 using the stock lifters also doing some m50 cams along the same line Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted February 8, 2012 not sure if your interested but im having cams done for my m42 that wont cost you the earth and lash caps to go with them for an easy install I would be very interested. The how,where and what to do with cams is somthing I still need to get my head arround. My research found that there is a 35mm solid lifter with 14.7mm foot for VW's available if i wanted to go solid lifter. Sounds like you are using factory lifters modified to solid lifters? Are you going for a cam regrind locally or a new cam? I would appreciate knowing the ins and outs of this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted February 8, 2012 you can hyd or solid and they are being done to my own spec with the hyd were doing lash caps so no other mods needed and were not coping shrick cams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted February 11, 2012 you can hyd or solid and they are being done to my own spec with the hyd were doing lash caps so no other mods needed and were not coping shrick cams Ok sounds good. So the cams are reground with a smaller base circle hence the need for lash caps with the hyd lifters? I have heard of welding the valve stem to increase the tip height but this sounds better. A drop in solution on hydros would be easier than setting lash etc What are your opinions of the hyd lifters and rpm limits? it seems 7200rpm is the max rpm for hyd. Also are hyd and sollid cams deifferent design depending on lifter style used? sorry for the barrage of questions, always keen to learn somthing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted February 12, 2012 reground cams thus the lash caps depending how good the springs are and oil pressure ive been running past 8500 on hyd without and issue, there's .010" between a hyd and solid cam in the shape just off base circle solid is more aggressive how it opens the valve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) Intake completed. Still working on the exhaust manifold. Its a tricky bugger and weaving tubes arround everything is quite a challlenge. Im on version 2.1 at the moment. Looks promising so far. Edited June 12, 2013 by MLM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 120 Report post Posted February 23, 2012 Are you making your own merge collector Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
