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What'd you do to your BMW today?

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Finally put the new thermostat that's been sitting on my windowsill for a month into the E30. Pretty simple to do, but definitely more annoying than the M20s I've had in the past. It has also made the air leak more noticeable, I should probably get around to tracing that sometime but I can't figure out how to take the intake manifold apart so I've given up for today.

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Finally put the new thermostat that's been sitting on my windowsill for a month into the E30. Pretty simple to do, but definitely more annoying than the M20s I've had in the past. It has also made the air leak more noticeable, I should probably get around to tracing that sometime but I can't figure out how to take the intake manifold apart so I've given up for today.

Did a thermostat replacement for one that was stuck open in the old family mitsi wagon. It'd been like that for 5 years+. Immediately sprang about six different coolant leaks.

Bit of a rabbit hole sometimes.

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Did a thermostat replacement for one that was stuck open in the old family mitsi wagon. It'd been like that for 5 years+. Immediately sprang about six different coolant leaks.

Bit of a rabbit hole sometimes.

Hahahhahhaha

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Spend some more time adjusting gearbox tune, shift points on my BMW er, Toyota

Better, bit more chilled out at certain throttle points. :)

bhhh.jpg

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Did a thermostat replacement for one that was stuck open in the old family mitsi wagon. It'd been like that for 5 years+. Immediately sprang about six different coolant leaks.

Bit of a rabbit hole sometimes.

jeez, you had a mitsubishi that lasted more than 5 years? :ph34r:

sorry, my bias. IMHO they use complex solutions to problems other manufacturers (such as Toyota or Nissan) solve with ease, though they fail at ten years. Case in point: white metal bearings for the balance shafts in 4G63 & G63B, they seize and shred the belts. Porsche & BMW execute balance shafts without issue. Oil burning like a tanker at 10-12years, it's pretty rare to see a 12 year or older Mitsi on the road. /rant.

sorry, perhaps I shoulda put this one in the quick rant thread!? #8 )

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jeez, you had a mitsubishi that lasted more than 5 years? :ph34r:

sorry, my bias. IMHO they use complex solutions to problems other manufacturers (such as Toyota or Nissan) solve with ease, though they fail at ten years. Case in point: white metal bearings for the balance shafts in 4G63 & G63B, they seize and shred the belts. Porsche & BMW execute balance shafts without issue. Oil burning like a tanker at 10-12years, it's pretty rare to see a 12 year or older Mitsi on the road. /rant.

sorry, perhaps I shoulda put this one in the quick rant thread!? #8 )

Haha. I have no particular love for them. Its one of the australian built '96 mitsubishi magnas with the truly awful 2.6L Astron II 4cyl.

Can't fault this one for reliability though. ~360000ks and still going. Bit rattly now though. Oil changes and virtually nothing else.

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Spend some more time adjusting gearbox tune, shift points on my BMW er, Toyota

"Team Honey"? :huh:

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"Team Honey"? :huh:

Old work computer, we used to be Team Honey, bit of in office joke.

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Haha. I have no particular love for them. Its one of the australian built '96 mitsubishi magnas with the truly awful 2.6L Astron II 4cyl.

Can't fault this one for reliability though. ~360000ks and still going. Bit rattly now though. Oil changes and virtually nothing else.

yeah, Can't argue with that. My Bro has had a couple of those era oz-Mitsis (Magna and Diamante), and they're pretty indestructible. Odd how I don't immediately associate these with Mitsi. I must confess to having run an '83 Sigma wagon for a couple of years in the 90's, and apart from a starter motor, battery and tyres, oil changes and installing a decent stereo, it was an excellent beater that took us up and down the north island a few times without apetite for oil.

"Team Honey"? :huh:

yeah I was wondering about that too :ph34r:

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Old work computer, we used to be Team Honey, bit of in office joke.

Sure Mike. Sure.

;)

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Misses got T boned today in the 46 by some jap box. Some slez ran the red and plowed right into the rear quarter, spun the car 180. She's alright, car isn't that bad considering, but sill is pushed in and up in the door jam. Rear wheel has a sight wobble but repairable. Wait and see what the insurance man says next week I guess.

Looks like it's had a dodgy repair there before looking at the bit of filler that's fallen off and the surface rust under it.

post-5102-0-12594000-1461994746.jpegpost-5102-0-01269800-1461994757.jpeg

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Had a look at fitting a towbar to the Touring. Did the usual thing - look on t'internet to see what is required. Absolutely no use whatsoever. Everyone talks about a couple of holes in the underside of the rear valance through which you insert a T50 and release something. Something? Makes no difference... There are no holes in the underside of the rear valance of our car.

Then other stuff happened, and it got too dark to see what I was doing.

I'll have another look tomorrow. :)

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I'll have another look tomorrow. :)

Might pay to remove the rear bumper to check. Should be able to see the mounting points (if they exist) and the inside of the bumper probably has template marks for OEM mounts if drilling or cutting is required.

Edited by M3AN

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Might pay to remove the rear bumper to check. Should be able to see the mounting points (if they exist) and the inside of the bumper probably has template marks for OEM mounts if drilling or cutting is required.

It's the rear bumper removal that didn't go according to plan today.

A bit more light tomorrow, and I'm sure I can find where the fixings are. I don't think I have to do this from the inside or remove outside trims - the mountings must be underneath somewhere.

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One little screw in each wheel arch, then the two big Torx bolts in the bumper mounts which are accessed through the holes in the underside of the bumper. Whole lot then slides off.

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One little screw in each wheel arch, then the two big Torx bolts in the bumper mounts which are accessed through the holes in the underside of the bumper. Whole lot then slides off.

That's the problem. I have plastic push pins where I expected to find screws (fair enough), but there are no holes in the underside of the bumper!

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12v to 5v and logic relay arrived. Finishing mock up for Raspberry Pi Cd Stacker replacement

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RIMG1370_zps7cna3bv5.jpg

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Pulled rear suspension apart to find out why DSR is bottoming out all the time...... only to find out springs on both sides have evidence of constant compression and next to no travel so now looking elsewhere for the cause of all of this.

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Realised how knackered the rear tyres have become! RE002's will have to be replaced with RE003's now.

Perfectly even wear though - not super common on an E39, but rebuilt rear end (no worn joints) AND an alignment guy who actually knows what he's doing, and listens to what you want - I run way less camber than the Motorsport suspension specs say, and he set it up for even wear.

Vuletich Wheel Alignment in Whangarei B)

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I gave mine a good wash and chamois this morning. the first wash after your last wax always comes up nice.

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That's the problem. I have plastic push pins where I expected to find screws (fair enough), but there are no holes in the underside of the bumper!

Just fitted a factory towbar to the e61, it basically replaces the rear bumper reinforcement bar, pull the bumper cover off, pull off the steel reinforcement, bolt on the towbar, replace the cover.

On the e61 the cover comes off by undoing the screws into the inner guards, then at the front of the bumper it pulls away from the car, then slides back, the cover comes off by itself so no big bolts, there are 2 screws just inboard and below the tailights, yours may be similar.

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Just fitted a factory towbar to the e61, it basically replaces the rear bumper reinforcement bar, pull the bumper cover off, pull off the steel reinforcement, bolt on the towbar, replace the cover.

On the e61 the cover comes off by undoing the screws into the inner guards, then at the front of the bumper it pulls away from the car, then slides back, the cover comes off by itself so no big bolts, there are 2 screws just inboard and below the tailights, yours may be similar.

Thanks.

I'll have a look when it warms up a bit. It's bleedin' chilly out there right now!

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The long winded way to take off the E46 bumper is to take off the black plastic mouldings (simply unclip) to reveal the fixings which you can the undo to remove the cover.

Mine is an M-sport, so If you don't have the holes in the bumper can you see the bolt heads to get the socket on? Bolt is quite long so needs a lot of room to come out.

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