Garett 103 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 some people say freeze it and hit it some people say heat gun??? any other ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
No name user 379 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 Hey man listen to crunchy, i talked to him when i decided i wanted to turbo the m50 i have for my E30... amazing what you can learn from a hour long phonecall.. hes EXTREMELY clued up...i wish i hadnt run out of money or i would have been able to build up a awesome setup with the information he gave me..luckily i wrote most of it down... crunchy isint appreciated enough on this forum..he has alot to offer and sometimes some people need to sitback and realise he knows more than ya average "slap a turbo on and wind it up til something blows" approach. thankyou very much for the kind words unfortunatly most of the time im up against it thus it all falls on deaf ears, still nothing like having a new hole ripped in you when it all turns pear shape dispite others trying to point them in the right direction expencive entertainment Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 120 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 I personally just used the heat gun. Came out quite messy. But was fine. Dry ice from boc seems to be the better option If your looking for all the hidden sound deadening there's some in the rear quater panels, in the doors, in under the dash, and some under the wiper motors. Sorry if i've ruined the surprise for you. Everything else is pretty obvious. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 Been told that the doors / quarter panels dent much easier once you remove the sound deadening. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 I personally just used the heat gun. Came out quite messy. But was fine. Dry ice from boc seems to be the better option If your looking for all the hidden sound deadening there's some in the rear quater panels, in the doors, in under the dash, and some under the wiper motors. Sorry if i've ruined the surprise for you. Everything else is pretty obvious. Haha damn it, it was like a treasure hunt, na good sh*t looks like i got my work cut out for this weekend... going to seek a different muffler for the rear that thing is heavy as. Straight pipe replace?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 Been told that the doors / quarter panels dent much easier once you remove the sound deadening. Hmmm.. ill try not to hit to many things. I may leave it in the panel stuff then.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ben 0 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 yeah ill flag the brembo thing i think... i dont think its fast enough yet haha, pads are easy to find though some Porsche and Ferrari use them. But the car is running mint hasn't skipped a beat, im lov'n it.. um the fuel problem... turns out there isn't one tat i know of, happy days. laugh.gif Thats awesome man So youve got no problems with running lean, detonation etc? What injectors are you using? going to seek a different muffler for the rear that thing is heavy as. Straight pipe replace?? You seem quite confident with your fabrication, why dont you just make your own muffler? I started making one at tec on monday get pipe drill ass load of holes in it wrap pipe with mesh make an outside case for it weld pipe in case stuff with fibreglass done. Theres obviously a bit more finesse involved in making a muffler but thats the bulk of it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 120 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 (edited) Hadn't heard of the panel damage part. Could be right as one of the side intrusion bar runs right along side the sound deadening. Although I don't think i'll worry about it Straight pipes are pretty loud. Centre section is heavy as well. Edited August 2, 2011 by bbs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 6, 2011 (edited) The car was pinkn a lil bit under full throttle on 91 gas, since changed to 98 ive had no problem at all.. and just running the standard injectors 415's if my memory serves me correctly. i acquired some adjustable rear camber arms that gives alot of adjustment pics below. made by the people who make similar ones these to tow airplanes, so yes nice and strong.. Edited August 6, 2011 by Garett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 6, 2011 I'd love to buy a tig weld can you imagine all the good things you could make with one... def be making mufflers and roll cages and exhaust manifolds etc... may have to invest in one i think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ben 0 Report post Posted August 7, 2011 I'd love to buy a tig weld can you imagine all the good things you could make with one... def be making mufflers and roll cages and exhaust manifolds etc... may have to invest in one i think. From what I hear the cheapy Mitech ones on trademe are good for diy. Theyre high frequency so you can weld aluminium too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 120 Report post Posted August 7, 2011 I've got one of the cheap L&Lee ones and it does the trick. I've used a few more expensive tigs at tec and find my cheapy works just as well. The tutor that recomended the L&Lee has had one for the last few years and hasn't had any problems yet. Oh and the user manual is in nearly un-readable chinglish Only thing i'm lacking now is materials, skill and time Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 9, 2011 (edited) haha i couldnt help myself today i had to weigh it to see how im getting on, i recon i could get another 100kg out of it yet... Edited August 9, 2011 by Garett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 12, 2011 (edited) today i got my new s/h Front and rear bumper - has a big fibreglass skirt on it, and got rid of the muffler at the rear and replaced it with two 2.5" pipes, tomorrow im going to try and find some clear plastic to do the rear windows and roof. Ive also decided that it now needs to be lower maybe drop 1" at the front and 1.5" at the rear.. Any Ideas on filling the space the sunroof left??? Edited August 13, 2011 by Garett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 13, 2011 From what I hear the cheapy Mitech ones on trademe are good for diy. Theyre high frequency so you can weld aluminium too. Yeah ive been having a look, once i stumble in to some free cash thats probley what ill get. cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted August 29, 2011 a Quick Update... After uming and arring about what to do about the big hole left in my roof i decided to take the roof skin off and replace it with a non sunroof type, so as it stands it has no windows no roof, i have gutted the rear boot out also and trimmed some fat hear and there with the grinder, and have De-loomed the wiring and only kept what is needed. next step is pull the dash out and see whats under there i can pillage for the trash, and then i will be soon in the need of a quick release and steering wheel, race seats and then i can take it in to get the roll cage fitted... im shopping around for the cage and talked to a couple of places, if anyone would like to and build me one or maybe you know of someone.. i need prices people have been priced a tig welded 8pt cage at $3500 so far more pics to come or check out GD Eurosport on Facebook for a vid teaser of my car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted September 5, 2011 (edited) Hmmm... Edited September 5, 2011 by Garett Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted September 5, 2011 do you think its worth having a oil primer set up? because i was thinking i could place a relay on the main signal wire the tells the injectors to fire and the same for the coils and then run that relay to another relay that goes to a oil pressure switch so that will activate once the oil pressure sensor light is deactivated, therefore allowing the car to turnover till it has oil pressure then start up. hmmm.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted September 5, 2011 dear Mr moderator kind sir can you please put this in the project thread Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1039 Report post Posted September 5, 2011 Done Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 i got a lil bit carried away with the wire conduit lol once you start its hard to stop, also removed all the wiring and control module for the abs unit at the same time... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 whooo.. shiny bits, to be installed once the clutch is replaced and the abs unit removed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 alloy dash panels go in, and switch board not far away... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 This is a good one and a must, if you have a e36 which you are lightening the ac heater box weighs a truck loads, id say at least 10 times heaver than the non ac one with manual controls. this manual one is from a nz new bmw e36 sedan and yes they do fit perfectly into coupe, for example i can throw it up and down above my head with 3 fingers its that light. heres a pic.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garett 103 Report post Posted October 9, 2011 A Pic of my new wheels and car before it heads off to get its roll cage... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
