Jump to content
Jacko

BMW 130i - Birds B1 Dynamics etc etc etc

Recommended Posts

30 minutes ago, Jacko said:

LCI cluster into pre-LCI, its plug and play but coding it to suit my VO doesnt seem to work as servicing schedules havent transferred over (and its still reporting the old VIN on the kombi). Some sorta tamper proofing, odo reads correctly though.

Oil temp is on the OBD2 feed on pre-lci cars, DME must use it, and has the sensor, but the PID for it is apparently topsecret so its unobtanium in Torque etc. 

CBS (servicing schedules) should work once the VIN is aligned. @HELLBM should be able to assist with resetting the EEPROM.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jacko said:

LCI cluster into pre-LCI, its plug and play but coding it to suit my VO doesnt seem to work as servicing schedules havent transferred over (and its still reporting the old VIN on the kombi). Some sorta tamper proofing, odo reads correctly though.

Oil temp is on the OBD2 feed on pre-lci cars, DME must use it, and has the sensor, but the PID for it is apparently topsecret so its unobtanium in Torque etc. 

That's awesome, didn't realise it was relatively straightforward. Probably quite easy to find a cluster with lower miles than yours so that's one problem taken care of!

The oil PID's problem exists with the LCI too. 😬

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, M3AN said:

That's awesome, didn't realise it was relatively straightforward. Probably quite easy to find a cluster with lower miles than yours so that's one problem taken care of!

The oil PID's problem exists with the LCI too. 😬

Doing it properly will require resetting the EEPROM and aligning to the mileage and VIN of the vehicle - no need to source one with lower mileage.

Edited by exextatic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont want to change the odo, 300,000km unlocks extra street cred. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Jacko said:

Now with oil temp gauge thanks to Matt... few little errors still to solve but its working!  @promo have you got the gear to clear the eeprom on a kombi?

198695208_10157721454177693_504819169737487277_n.jpg

Hiya, I have to virginise it first on the eeprom so that your vin will come across. Else you'll get the tamper dot and won't be able to do service resets either. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, exextatic said:

Doing it properly will require resetting the EEPROM and aligning to the mileage and VIN of the vehicle - no need to source one with lower mileage.

Mileage is easy to change. If you've already plugged it in and the dash has a higher value, it will sync with the cas module. To change again you need to do cluster and dash..easy to do . 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome upgrade man, I've wanted the temp gauge on mine for a while now but always thought it would be tricky to swap. And promo can make it work... guess I need to look out for a cluster! 

Will any cluster work? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Innards (Facelift) !

197830540_10157723919942693_6048260009267537298_n.jpg

199013964_10157723920007693_7530703048417634355_n.jpg

196839508_10157723920067693_2369542635413731446_n.jpg

200188988_10157723920097693_2497472407861629493_n.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Success... Desoldered eeprom from OG cluster, swapped it into LCI cluster, and bingo LCI cluster thinks its original and all works. Now to fix the needle positions up as I must have moved the shafts when removing needles :D

IMG_20210626_161412.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gah.... doesnt work... well.. it does... but in unexpected ways.

My oil temp gauge is now a vacuum/fuel efficiency gauge (like on prefl 330s :D ). Whats weird is that it responds to oil temp gauge commands from coding, like driving it to half way and sweeps.

This is going to take some coding. @promo any ideas?

Edited by Jacko
  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did some interneting, found a guide on how to screw with kombi using ediabas and hexadecimals and flick the mpg gauge into a oil temp gauge (when I want to make my oil temp gauge stop being an mpg gauge :D) ... then found this little program - Perfekt Toolbox. Works great! (the numbers here are what to plug in if anyone in the future is reading this) https://www.drive2.com/l/515881510977405074/

I now have a working oil temp gauge, that even shows oil temp.

Now to solve the speedo, going from 260kmh to 280kmh on the lci has made it go a bit out of whack calibration wise (only starts getting bad above 140kmh)

kombi.png

Edited by Jacko
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers to HellBM, now have a new lump to play with.... 

233081265_10157813311472693_964076458049196668_n.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, IainR said:

Any interesting plans.....? 

Freshen up with new seals etc, MILVs and rag on it :) During the swap will get KB to give the box a freshen up. 

Goes in for the headers end of month 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Couple of hours of cleaning and poking around today. Looks good inside. 

229986126_10157814797342693_6884793309464480045_n (1).jpg

228382294_10157814797262693_6896566244322613177_n.jpg

233871893_10157814953192693_2389754516549421193_n.jpg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Other end looks tickety boo as well. New oil filter housing gaskets and pressure switch done, new plugs in. 

Injectors off to be cleaned and benched.

Now we play the wait on the courier game... milvs/gaskets/belts/pulleys/coils(with new plugs to convert my old spec car)... and every single coolant pipe. Gives me time to find a new rocker cover.

217399358_10157816456902693_1347848065006780287_n.jpg

232904867_10157816456837693_2108063325967809227_n.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shiney cleaned and benched injectors from injectortech in, during level 4 (legend), and have a new rockercover coming from ECS... (ouch).

Wondering if its worth trying to paint this one to give it some more protection than stock, at $700USD I dont really want to be buying multiple of these. Best as I can tell they are sprayed with aluminized coating to stop corrosion.. Im wondering if VHT or similar (nothing gaudy!) over the stock coating will improve lifespan of it?

Hopefully MILVs arrive this week and can bang them in. 

Edited by Jacko

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, Jacko said:

...Wondering if its worth trying to paint this one to give it some more protection than stock, at $700USD I dont really want to be buying multiple of these...

Couldn't get it from FCP with lifetime warranty?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, M3AN said:

Couldn't get it from FCP with lifetime warranty?

Wouldnt ship it to NZ, strangely.

  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Jacko said:

Wouldnt ship it to NZ, strangely.

Bugger and yeah, that's an odd exclusion.

Could you get it powder coated? Or might that alter the fit and tolerances too much?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Bugger and yeah, that's an odd exclusion.

Could you get it powder coated? Or might that alter the fit and tolerances too much?

Yeah id be worried the temp would warp it 😕 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The "magnesium" covers are MgAl9Zn1(A) aka EN-MC 21120. Maximum mechanical temperature of 130 degrees but they don't start to melt until 490 degrees or so. I'd be inclined to dry ice blast an older cover and then zinc plate it.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, leichtbau said:

The "magnesium" covers are MgAl9Zn1(A) aka EN-MC 21120. Maximum mechanical temperature of 130 degrees but they don't start to melt until 490 degrees or so. I'd be inclined to dry ice blast an older cover and then zinc plate it.

The one on the car at the moment is just surface stuff at the moment, might be a good solution to try save that one. Can you recommend somewhere?

Edited by Jacko

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, Jacko said:

The one on the car at the moment is just surface stuff at the moment, might be a good solution to try save that one. Can you recommend somewhere?

Agreed - no sense in messing with the sparkly new cover.

(it has frustrated me enormously) I've seen enough of a gap in the market to do it myself, but I'm six months away from you sending your old cover down to me to blast for you. There's a few places in Auckland that could vapour blast the cover, but the jury is out on how well the magnesium alloy reacts to the shot peening effect that vapour blasting imparts on the metals being cleaned. Ideal for grey cast iron surfaces, but there's potential for microscopic cracking on alloys, and not enough real world testing to give a definitive answer on whether it's a good idea or not.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...