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Jacko

BMW 130i - Birds B1 Dynamics etc etc etc

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25 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Looks good although not a fan of the stripe. Easy enough to do? Where did you get it from?

Was more customisaton to get without the stripe, this way racecarAF ;) Its a Mewant one, they are all over the place, support was really good and considering it was custom made, turned up in a week.

 

5 minutes ago, NZ_InFerno said:

Forgot to comment on this but can I send you mine lol

My cover has been sitting on the desk for months, went with the stock style in leather with the perforated hand grips. 

I am no pro.... :D Would do a few things bit differently if did again, when youre positioning it use the gap between the sides that get pulled together to position it, so if the gap between the seem is even *all* the way around. Took about 2 hours to install. Definitely remove the wheel to do it too, would be a pig to do on the car. 

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16 hours ago, Jacko said:

Netflix and sew.... went red stitching (and Alcantara) to match the recaros... in hindsight black would be cleverer.

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looks great! very tidy, where did you get the wrap from, is this the east detailing one?

cheers 

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3 hours ago, elias said:

looks great! very tidy, where did you get the wrap from, is this the east detailing one?

I won't do the work for you, read some of the recent posts... 😉

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20 minutes ago, M3AN said:

I won't do the work for you, read some of the recent posts... 😉

haha fair had another look through and found it, not sure how I missed it the first time, my bad 

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Very shiney.

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Seats in, kind of. Need new bolts for the rear of rails, getting a torx bit in there just aint happening. Dont appear to have power on the passenger seat, will break out multimeter, must have got wrong pin as everything else is working (heater, cooler, power adjustments). Seats have WAY more adjustment range than stock, and at lowest position are about 1.5" lower than stock, much less "sitting on the car" feeling. Coding out the airbags takes 5 seconds, occupancy sensors, seat belt sensors, and pretensioners all still exist. 

Stock Msport electrics 27.7+27.7 = 55kg

Recaros 20.4+24.6 = 45kg

10kg saved, with more bells. 

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Edited by Jacko
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17 minutes ago, Jacko said:

"sitting on the car" feeling.

What was thinking about that other day sitting in mine and i swear the older cars like E34 and below were much better in regards to bolstering. The standard sport seats in 90's and 00's BMW at least seem to be more built more for the fatties being wider and softer bolstering.

 

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Weirdly, drivers side body loom pinned for heated seats, passengers one not... swapped some pins around and now passenger also gets a cooled ass. Thanks to @HELLBM for hooking me up with the rocking horse sh*t seat side pins.

 

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So the question is... do I tweak the headers or trim the engine mount a smidge...

 

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If I'm seeing the interference correctly then do the latter for sure. Might it just be the head shield (assuming that's what the sheet metal is)?

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I’d agree with M3AN, the mount looks like it’s just the heat shielding in the way which could be re-profiled to give more clearance. Worst case it means less of a tweak to the headers.

If it is the actual Ali mount arm that’s in the way then I wouldn’t suggest removing any of that for clearance… just in case.

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Its more than the shield, Its about 10mm of the lip around edge of the bolt hole. 😕 

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Hmm, 10mm sounds like a lot. Impossible to tell from the pic but if it's likely to affect the strength of the hole then that would be a "nope" for me. And on the other hand I wouldn't want to compromise the headers... is a custom mount an option? Or remove the material from the top of the bracket and reinforce the hole elsewhere (perhaps the underside)?

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It'll be something like this, heatshield will have to get chopped up a bit too. 

Went back to the manufacturer, who is talking, and is also scratching their heads. Engine mount is standard across 1/3/Z N52s...

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2 hours ago, Jacko said:

Its about 10mm of the lip around edge of the bolt hole. 😕 

Bugger, looking closer at your photo I can see how far out the top of the mount is, so yeah, needs quite a bit of relief there. More than I would want to take out of an engine mount that’s for sure.

Is it possible to get around the pipe that’s the issue and squeeze it into an oval rather than round? Not perfect, but the change in cross section should be minimal, and look better than just bashing a dent into it..

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Yeah, I certainly wouldn't dent the headers. That bit that you've marked isn't load bearing so it would be at the lower end of my "concern scale" but you need to remove enough material to ensure it never came into contact, even with worm mounds or you'll be in a whole world of exhaust leak pain.

If you chopped off the marked bit, would the mount shaft and nut clear the headers? If not then modifying the bracket would be futile.

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H19d30d8247d64ef8bc410f8bd93d0637X.jpg_6Have they sent you the wrong headers? I swear all the pics I've seen on aliexpress have the o2 sensor in a different spot

 

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Edited by NZ_InFerno

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Apparently these are the RHD version 

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Assuming you didn't add the markup to those pictures Chris I read that text as saying interference is expected on RHD cars (which would be odd, you'd think they'd design that out). How are you reading it?

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Had to dent my e55 headers for RHD. Made SFA difference to the headers.

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2 minutes ago, GorGasm said:

Had to dent my e55 headers for RHD. Made SFA difference to the headers.

What did you use to measure before and after?

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37 minutes ago, GorGasm said:

Had to dent my e55 headers for RHD. Made SFA difference to the headers.

The few dyno's videos etc ive seen seems to confirm that no difference, they beat on them on hard in one video. Primary tubing generally being oversized and gases flowing faster in the middle of tube and slower on outside was the reasoning. 

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2 hours ago, M3AN said:

 That bit that you've marked isn't load bearing so it would be at the lower end of my "concern scale" 

Yes, that part wouldn’t be taking any of the vertical load of the engine weight, however, being around the mounting bolt it would be taking a load under accelerating / braking and cornering. Not as high max loads, but more repetitive I would suggest.

My concern would be it cracking around the bolt allowing more engine movement. That section has been beefed up and raised in the design for a reason… Probably not a “do not under any circumstances” more a “not ideal but if there’s no other way” fix.

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