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Olaf

Grey Thunder - 1990 e30 316i

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I reckon the Kenwood works pretty well with the ‘battle stations’ amber lighting of the e30 dashboard.

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Date: 9 Feb 2021

Distance: 262722kms

1. WoF.  

Grey Thunder flew through the WoF check at the start of Feb.  "it's just so nice to drive!".  Tyres wearing evenly.  Some surface rust noted, so I'll need to address. 

Update

Grey Thunder's sitting in dry storage now, I lost my free garage last year after my generous neighbour sold his rental, and the new investors let the garage with one of the flats.  I've little time to drive her while we're doing a full kitchen replacement at home.  Kitchen project hould be finished late April (we've waited 20 years to do this, it's getting done right), and then back into the car.

I'll need to get back on to harvesting/collecting M42 swap parts, exhaust, some body seals etc and get it all done and certed during this year.

Since last update I did secure a Z3 M44 exhaust manifold for the swap.  

Meanwhile the Next Steps/to-do list has grown a little:

Next Steps:

  • Address surface rust on hard lines and fuel tank balance tube etc
  • Replace boot lid seal (ordered), remediate boot lid/spoiler lip
  • Replace boot side-vent seals (have parts)
  • Replace L&R Door Seals
  • Replace L&R window seals
  • Spray cavity wax into front rad support (the remediation last year has held well, let's treat the inside)
  • Source RH door rubbing strip and clips, replace
  • Centre console - clock (have parts)
  • Driver's window - fix in regulator to address wind whistle
  • Address non-functioning remote door mirrors
  • Replace those OEM front ARB bushes with the genuine BMW 20mm bushes (have parts)
  • Rear Parcel Shelf, Noise deadening, Premium Rear Speakers (have parts)
  • Fit analogue centre console clock and bezel
  • Fit Genuine BMW Antenna Grommet
  • Fog light rebuild and install (have parts) with new bulbs (on order)
  • Horns install (have parts)
  • Wheel alignment (last done 259342kms) - it's over a year, and I think it's settled a little.
  • 15" Basketweaves and tyres - need wheels and tyres

Still love this car to bits, and driving it really puts a smile on my face.

M42 Parts list for refresh/conversion:

  • M44 cam chain tensioner
  • Coil on plug kit (coils, wiring and connectors)
  • Full gasket Kit
  • Serpentine belt, tensioner
  • power steering pump (used)
  • Water pump
  • M42-specific cooling hoses
  • Thermostat
  • e46 Purple Tag Rack & e30 purple tag hoses
  • e46 Rack rebuild kit
  • e46 tie rod inner arms
  • ? Oil Pump?
  • ? Rings & bearings?
  • ? Camchain & gears?
  • Stromung stainless exhaust system
  • and of course oil, coolant, patience.

M42 Conversion parts already secured:

  • e30 318iS hydraulic mounts and RH engine support arm
  • upper & lower oil pan and dipstick tube
  • M42 (e36) and DME complete with starter and alternator
  • e30 318iS M42 loom (complete)
  • Z3 M44 exhaust manifold
  • spark plugs (FGR7DQP+), oil filters (Mahle OX91D)
  • Steering: e36 tie-rod ends e46 bellows kit x 2
  • Some badges...

Best I don't scare myself.  Here, have a music video in lieu of a photo update!
 

 

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okay I admit, not one of Dolby's finest moments.

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Yesterday I got her down off the rack, removed the cover, gave her a quick wash.  Headed out to Paraparaumu to GIMS Cars & Coffee, caught up with some of the Welly Crew from BMW Car Club NZ, and some other mates.  Event missing the heart of the Southwards Cars & Coffee meets, it seems more 'Fast & Furious'.   

She started first go, ran like a charm, and gleamed under the cloud.  I was able to re-synch to the stereo with my phone, just as well as I'd left the memory stick full of 80's music at home.

I did find that pootling along in 5th at 80 on a light throttle and favourable seal indicates 5 litres/100km!  Here she is at a tickle over 80 showing 6/100.  Yes that’s 2250 rpm - 4.27 diff ratio life!  I have a 4.10 in my basement, though I rather wonder if that’d knock the wind out if the B16’s sails.  I'm saving that for the M42 conversion, if not an LSD.

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Cruisin' - like Michael Nesmith?


Back at the ranch I connected up the CTEK ahead of tucking her up beneath blanket and up on the rack, and it went straight on stage 3 of the charge cycle.  I'd have expected stage 5.  I guess that battery - despite living on trickle/float for the last 4 months - is showing its age a bit.  It was a couple of years old when I bought her in 2018, so well past end-of-life for a crappy AA battery.  I guess I’ll get a KOBA replacement when the time comes.

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CTEK's wunnerful MXS5.0 intelligent 8-stage battery charger & maintainer, yesterday.

 

The rear axle and running gear is looking pretty tidy, so I clicked a snap when tucked-up. 

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Yes, I should have painted that cross-member.  Add to the list of things to do!

 

I'm continuing to amass parts for it.  Our kitchen project has extended in time and scope, and won't be done till May/June now.  I need to find some time to clean up those brake and fuel lines, and sort out the boot lid seal and spoiler/bootlid.  Get a plan together for the engine.

I was very pleased to note the radiator support panel/front scuttle is looking really sound since last year's clean-up and paint.  No bubbling, surface rust hasn't come back.  Result.

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Tucked-up in bed

In summary, great to dust her off and get her out for a drive.  Reminds me how much I enjoy her, the analogue driving experience, all the maintenance work that's been done before... the brakes, suspension, bushes, wheel bearings etc... I have to accept we're in a bit of a hiatus at the moment and I'll come back to her in future.

Edited by Olaf
Formatting, Images, titling
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2 hours ago, Olaf said:

Yesterday I got her down off the rack, removed the cover, gave her a quick wash.  Headed out to Paraparaumu to GIMS Cars & Coffee, caught up with some of the Welly Crew from BMW Car Club NZ, and some other mates.  Event missing the heart of the Southwards Cars & Coffee meets, it seems more 'Fast & Furious'.

The BMW's appeared to be the only understated cars there

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yes, though that lovely Starion was a bonus (I'll add a pic shortly, need to get the few images from my camera processed).  I was pretty impressed with a number of them, despite not being my general 'style'; we're all car people after all.  Maybe this mob viewed grey-haired old geezers (like myself) with a pinch of suspicion or at least curiosity 😁  

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Here's another musical interlude, brought on by mention of cruisin'.  It doesn't fit with the alt and indie thread, so I'll leave this here...
 

 

 

 

Edited by Olaf
repaired video link

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Date: 16 Jun 2021

Distance: 262884kms

1. Hardlines and Fueltank Balance Tube  

Some minor surface fust forming was observed last WoF, so I put the car up high, scuffed the hardlines with a scotchbrite, treated with KB Rust Blast, masked up, then painted with Epoxy KB Rust Seal.

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Before

 

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After.

 

2. Exhaust Leak

WhiIe addressing the hardlines, I noticed soot on the exhaust near where the shape is squished a little to pass the back axle.  A little Y-shaped split had formed.    This was a welding job, Jon at Auto38 executed admirably.

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Before

 

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Exhaust repaired.

 

3. Pre annual trip checks

Replaced front RH indicator bulb.  Oil (Penrite HPR5), Filter (Mahle OX91), and 65ml of MBL8.  EDIT:  Last oil change was 260672 in Nov 2019, 2212kms/20 months ago.  Emptied boot.

 

4.  Boot spoiler & bootlid seal replacement

My original spoiler had distorted and lifted, and was letting water into the boot.  As the car's in dry storage it was less of an issue, but of concern when contemplating a wet journey or outdoor parking.  

The BMW factory spoilers have a steel rib within them, and threaded mounting tabs for six 10mm plastic mounting nuts, each with a closed cell foam washer.  Water works its way into the spoiler, rusting the steel, distorting the shape.  I think we’ll see this more often as these cars age.

I'd acquired a replacement spoiler more than a year ago, though it needed paint prep as it was body colour Delfin.  My original was the standard unfinished matt black.  

I discussed with the team at Union Hardware, wanting guidance on how to refinish.  They reconnended prepping by first cleaning, then wet sanding with 400 grit wet and dry followed by 600 grit.  Then a coat of Plastic Adhesion Promoter, Etch Primer, and then Primer Surfacer.  If left overnight, dry rubbed back with 600 grit wet and dry.  Then the usual body colour plus clear coat.  They noted I'd get a matt finish, so not to go to the expense of the UPOL clear I usually use.  They also recommended using windscreen sealant to assist with keeping the water out.  I duly bought the supplies I didn't already have, and then mentally prepared.  I also ordered new spoiler nuts and gasket washers.

Sanding the spoiler was fun, a light touch is essential, and patience as the W&D used wet is slow work.  I used a foam block for the straight parts. I used KB Rust Blast as a precautionary measure on the mounting bolts, rinsing and drying after 20 mins.  I masked off the threads in preparation for paint.

Plastic Adhesion Promoter is unusual to use, it goes on clear, flashes off and that's it.  You don't let it dry.  Etch Primer is a dust coat only.  I'm still working on that, my OCD alter-ego wants a uniform finish.  The Primer Filler is easy to spray, and levels out nicely.  It'll fill minor imperfections.  I left the spoiler to cure.  My lesson from this section:  when using aerosols, spray a quick burst onto your masking paper away from the job, before applying paint.  I got a splat of something gluey first shot with the Etch, that I had to sand out later.

Fast forward to painting time.  What can I say.  Dust coat, flash time, 3 wetter coats with ~10 mins in-between.

For all of the painting I used my customary water bath technique to help the paint flow better.  For the clear coat I got the temperature too high, and the can distorted.  I was lucky.  Use *warm*, not HOT water!  

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A water bath, recently.

 

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Primer Filler (in case you were wondering).

 

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I left the spoiler to dry overnight, and turned to the boot lid seal.

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Lachssilbered-up and cleared.

 

The old boot seal was visuallly in good shape, though it had lost its elasticity and had a couple of small tears.  The new one looked great.  Removing the trim is a pain, punching down the centre of the plastic trim rivets.  I was concerned about what I'd find beneath the seal.  I needn't have worried.  For a 31 year old car it was in good shape, mior surface crust in two spots (the corners above the tail lights).  A light scuff and rust blast, follwed by drying with the heat gun sorted that.  As a precautionary measure  I brushed on Rust Seal paint along the seam between the rear tail light panel and the seal mounting edge, and left it overnight to cure/dry.

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Nice bit of flange that.

 

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New Seal ready to install.

 

Installing the seal was easy.  Find the centre of the seal, work from the back (beneath the rear screen) and push fit your way around.  A little rubber grease eases the process.  If you've got it right, it'll meet neatly in the centre to the right of the latch.  One part slides into the other - it’s correct length right out of the packet.  The new seal makes it harder to close the boot lid, and it sounds amazing - "cl-UNK", on closing.  Job's a good un.

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A perfect join.

 

Mounting the spoiler was a be-atch.  These are not designed to use sealant.  I test-fitted.    I used a thin bead of sealant before applying to the car, being careful around the two drains not to block them with too much material.  Holding the foam gaskets to the nuts with a tiny dab of sealant helps.  You need 1/4" 10mm socket with an extension for this job.

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Old gasket seals and nuts as removed.

 

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New gasket seals and plastic nuts

When I attached the spoiler and started tightening it down, It seemed to be proud at the leading edge, so I added more.  Not recommended!

Lessons.  Mask up if you're using sealant.  Prepsol is great for removing from the spoiler.  I used Isopropyl and it took off some of the paint, though lifted it from the panel with ease.  Prepsol was great, not harming the paint but thinning and further preading the sealant.  Loads of clean rags recommended.  Buy trim rivets when you order the boot seal, and order 8 or 10 gasket washers in case you lose one. 

The spoiler looks good, on reflection I could more easily have used Satin Black instead.

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All that remains before the next road trip is a wash, new battery (or take a jump pack), and get my (new-ish) phone to consistently pair with the stereo.

 

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Edited by Olaf
updating text to form the TLDR version; added images, oil change details
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Some sealant tips for next time: use turps to remove the excess sealant when it squirts out of the join between the two objects you're sealing -  it's what we use when using sikaflex and other sealants on super yachts, Wax & grease likes to eat clearcoat. Just have a tonne of paper towels at the ready, as it really does get everywhere. There's a chance you've inadvertently blocked the two drain channels in the underside of the spoiler;  not really a drama, just something to be aware of. Masking off is a good idea if you're trying to get razor straight blend lines in high visual areas, but more appropriate when you're applying sealant to objects already firmly attached to each other and you're filling a gap. Pull the tape off before the sealant begins to cure otherwise you'll pull crescents of sealant out of your nice smooth bead.

Selleys Marineflex comes in grey and is waterproof, I've used it below the waterline for underwater lights with great results.

I didn't see if you're using can guns, but they'll massively improve the finish straight out of the can. 3M don't make them anymore, but these are identical and you'll wonder how you managed without them.

Tef-gel coated to the spoiler threads and around the foam washers will stop corrosion in its tracks if water does manage to track its way to the underside.

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Awesome, thanks Harm.  I had thought of re-masking (it had gotten damp); cutting corners based on not enough time cost me dearly.  I’d looked into the manufacturer’s recommendations for cleanup, they weren’t at all obvious!

Ive got to do some wide beads with MS at home between plastered concrete and cement board, I’ll definitely mask for that.

PS:  Can Guns were on my list but never realised.  I've ordered a pair now!

PPS:  Tef-Gel, looks like a winner.  Will try to get some.

Edited by Olaf

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Thanks Matt  @balancerider me too, got to get to the end of renovations first.  I continue to build up parts for the conversion.

Edited by Olaf

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It did about 380kms over the weekend, ran well and didn't use a drop of oil.  

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I continue to pick away at my parts list in preparation for the engine swap.  A water pump here; a serpentine belt, pulleys and tensioner there; seals, gaskets, hoses.  Taking my time getting ready.

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Date: 7 Sept 2021

Distance: 263271 kms

1. New Battery

The batty had become increasingly less cooperative in storage since June, despite the gentle pulsing care of the CTEK MXS 5.0 in maintenance mode.  No sense in flogging the dead horse.  

I consulted the schedule on on RealOEM, and found they equipped 46, 50, 55, and 65Ah battys for the 316i and 318iS.  Existing batty was an AA 3552, which is a DIN53L, 510CCA, 50AH.  (interesting AA no longer recommend this, favouring a DIN55 instead (heavier).  There are plenty of options out there, and I've completely given up on AA Battery Service following really crappy service by them in 2019/20.  

The DIN53L is a relatively small batty, both dimensionally [L=242, W=174, H175, TH=175, all in mm], and in capacity (around 50AH).  A really stonking version can put out 600CCA/60AH, though ~500 CCA/50AH is more commonplace in Niu Zild.  Prices between about $195 (Repco 40 month on special) to over $350 for a Century with 36 month warranty, were found via a quick search.  

What's a fella to do during Lockdown v2.0 eh?  So we ordered a Koba as the quality is good (my e60 is still very happy) and price is reasonable.  Many thanks to @Autoglym for arranging.  The MF55457 is a DIN53LMF.  

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Time to get a WoF and some rego.  Spring is here!

PS - it's three years of ownership on 9th Sept. Somehow there's always a necessary anniversary purchase whether I like it or not!

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Edited by Olaf
dimensions, formatting, mileage, photos; corrected mileage
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Date: 14 Sept 2021

Distance: 263337 kms

1. WoF

Gave it a wash, drove to trusted workshop where it flew through another WoF, renewed rego on-line.  Lovely day to get out in my e30 in the spring sunshine with friends 🙂👍

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e30 ahead of being put to bed last night

Edited by Olaf
added image
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16 hours ago, freaknout said:

A pleasure Rich and Barry.

selfie ommitted!  opportunity missed 😲.  next time, my friend.

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On 9/14/2021 at 1:06 PM, Olaf said:

Date: 14 Sept 2021

Distance: 263337 kms

1. WoF

Gave it a wash, drove to trusted workshop where it flew through another WoF, renewed rego on-line.  Lovely day to get out in my e30 in the spring sunshine with friends 🙂👍

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e30 ahead of being put to bed last night

The E30 CSL is Looking very sharp indeed!

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E30 CSL - I like the sound of that! 😁

but what will I do with the iS badge that’s waiting to go on it? 😎

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I've had such a busy time with renovations, little time to drive my e30.  Had a little time up my sleeve this morning, met up with @adro and we made some images.

 

 

_FRA3107_1600_300dpi.jpg

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Great shot - they look very sharp together!

Is that Sterling and Lachs?

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sure is, well spoted @Sammo and thanks

 

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Date: 10 Mar 2022

Distance: 263501 kms

1. WoF

It flew through another WoF, after a drive on Saturday to dust out the cobwebs.  Looking forward to having more time to drive it!  Minimal kms since last WoF, been focused on home.

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