2001 E39 530i crank no start

[Etwenty1 45]

I’ve had a 530i sitting around for a while and after selling another project I started tidying it up, it had previously run ok I had bought it minus the abs unit and the msport bits.

anyway after sorting the brakes out I gave it a road test and it went well but has a brief loss power at higher revs. Next day it would start but stall showing a cam sensor  code. This was intermittent cos sometimes it would start and run fine. While waiting for a new sensor to arrive I started it a few more times and got trans and engine fail safe messages, rough idle and cam sensor code. The fuel and battery were a little low so charged that up added fuel and it started and ran for a couple of seconds then cut out and wouldn’t restart. I now have a long list of error codes on my cheap scanner and it’s a long tow to a proper one.

Any ideas?
It cranks strongly but no fuel, I opened the shraeder valve and nothing. I’ve got 12v at the green fuel pump relay under the dash next to the ews unit but can’t get the pump to run. I’ve tested the pump with 12v and it’s good. I’ve tried jumping this relay on pins 30 and 87 is that correct? Maybe the wiring between the relay and the pump?

 The fuel pump fuse is good, the fuses under the carpet look ok though there was a couple of mm of water underneath.

would a dead crank sensor cause this Like on e36’s?

 

[Ahmedsinc 414]

2 hours ago, Etwenty1 said:

I’ve had a 530i sitting around for a while and after selling another project I started tidying it up, it had previously run ok I had bought it minus the abs unit and the msport bits.

anyway after sorting the brakes out I gave it a road test and it went well but has a brief loss power at higher revs. Next day it would start but stall showing a cam sensor  code. This was intermittent cos sometimes it would start and run fine. While waiting for a new sensor to arrive I started it a few more times and got trans and engine fail safe messages, rough idle and cam sensor code. The fuel and battery were a little low so charged that up added fuel and it started and ran for a couple of seconds then cut out and wouldn’t restart. I now have a long list of error codes on my cheap scanner and it’s a long tow to a proper one.

Any ideas?
It cranks strongly but no fuel, I opened the shraeder valve and nothing. I’ve got 12v at the green fuel pump relay under the dash next to the ews unit but can’t get the pump to run. I’ve tested the pump with 12v and it’s good. I’ve tried jumping this relay on pins 30 and 87 is that correct? Maybe the wiring between the relay and the pump?

 The fuel pump fuse is good, the fuses under the carpet look ok though there was a couple of mm of water underneath.

would a dead crank sensor cause this Like on e36’s?

 

Crank position sensor is toast. The DME won’t arm the fuel pump unless it knows where cylinder 1 is in the cycle 

[Etwenty1 45]

New sensor in and no change. Have tried cranking with a good fuel pump outside the tank and it’s still not activating. I have disconnected the battery a few times and even being careful it crackles a bit when I connect the neg terminal. Maybe I have damaged the dme? Weird how it was running then just stopped.

 

[Etwenty1 45]

Well I found my issue, corroded dme pins included one missing.

[BreakMyWindow 1870]

Make sure the drain under that DME box is clear, looks like condensation or moisture got the best of those plugs.

[polley 916]

Take clone of DME and load on to replacement one, then sync EWS and you should be away. Common problem.

[NZ00Z3 186]

In the E46 world, we are seeing more of these DME pin contamination events.  It is usually put down to a sensor leaking coolant or oil through the sensor and into the electrical connection.  The fluid then migrates up to the DME to cause havoc with the DME pins.  Usually connector X60003 on the MS43 DME. 

If this is your situation, check the electrical connectors of all sensors to see if one is passing fluid and is the root cause.   You don't want to have to do the repair again in a years time because the leaking sensor is still doing its nasty work.

[Etwenty1 45]

47 minutes ago, NZ00Z3 said:

In the E46 world, we are seeing more of these DME pin contamination events.  It is usually put down to a sensor leaking coolant or oil through the sensor and into the electrical connection.  The fluid then migrates up to the DME to cause havoc with the DME pins.  Usually connector X60003 on the MS43 DME. 

If this is your situation, check the electrical connectors of all sensors to see if one is passing fluid and is the root cause.   You don't want to have to do the repair again in a years time because the leaking sensor is still doing its nasty work.

Thanks for that, its hard to see how moisture has gotten into the sealed compartment, but i bought the car with a badly cracked windscreen on that corner, that may have contributed. 

[Etwenty1 45]

1 hour ago, polley said:

Take clone of DME and load on to replacement one, then sync EWS and you should be away. Common problem.

Thanks, I've gone down the EWS delete route with a new DME.

[Etwenty1 45]

On 2/26/2021 at 10:58 AM, BreakMyWindow said:

Make sure the drain under that DME box is clear, looks like condensation or moisture got the best of those plugs.

Thanks, ill check that.

[polley 916]

6 hours ago, Etwenty1 said:

Thanks, I've gone down the EWS delete route with a new DME.

Yep that works as well, as long as you don't mind the disabled theft protection, mismatched VIN numbers, and just be aware of different software variants / options, ie some cars having SAP and others not etc.