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qube

E61 Wagon Project

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OIl cooler seals? 

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How many kms has it done @qube?  Catching sight of brake rotors in a couple of your pics are they getting lippy?  I'm unsure about the 6cyl, the V8 uses hyrid rotors with alloy hats that none of the 'OE' or OEM featured (so I went Genuine BMW).  If the factory part on 6cyl uses conventional rotors, alternate choices are straightforward. I can recommend Hawk HPS pads for the e60.  HTH.

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2 hours ago, Olaf said:

How many kms has it done @qube?  Catching sight of brake rotors in a couple of your pics are they getting lippy?  I'm unsure about the 6cyl, the V8 uses hyrid rotors with alloy hats that none of the 'OE' or OEM featured (so I went Genuine BMW).  If the factory part on 6cyl uses conventional rotors, alternate choices are straightforward. I can recommend Hawk HPS pads for the e60.  HTH.

Yep 155kms rotors will need replacing soon

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Thanks for the heads up

Yea guys only had it 3 months and selling already with service due. I'm a little unsure on it. Still in talks with a guy on an 07 LCI 550i with 81kms and a sunroof that doesnt open.

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Ahhh, good times, are you having a quick look over the tailgate wiring while your head is in there?

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Everything looks okay but the old drain tubes were definitely a bit clogged with dirt. New hoses will definitely help a lot. 
 

there is an issue with the battery or ibs or both, clock keeps dying and now reverse cam stopped working. 
 

Also managed to fix one side of the retractable blinds not operating when opening the glass hatch, the little tab was blocked by some wiring and a small box which i realised after removing the pillar trim. 

847622AF-300B-4287-B8EF-F38D3D1350AD.jpeg

7B21EEC7-3021-4BAB-A406-F00189CDDA95.jpeg

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Had the car parked up for about 3-4 days and battery was drained and wouldnt start. 

Got AA to charge and test it and came back all good..?

it was replaced approx 3-4 yrs/50,000kms ago by previous owner and coded to the car. 
 

before we parked it up the clock reset itself a few times and also the reverse cam stopped working. (Still doesnt work atm)

 

any idea what i need to look at to get this sorted? Is there a way to check for battery drain?

can i disconnect the neg terminal and test the fuses or something? Thanks!

C1BFFF21-03E8-4F70-951F-C0327A0B3F13.jpeg

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Id do a current draw test by disconnecting the negative terminal and using a multimeter on Amp setting to bridge between the terminal and negative battery post. See how many amps its draws with the engine off, ignition off. If its high, start pulling fuses until it drops. You'd need to check what a normal current drain is on one of these, but believe it should be less than about 50ma.

Do these have issues with the battery sensor thing like other models?

Edited by KwS

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Can I have the negative terminal disconnected for a long time while testing this?

I think under 0.5A is considered normal.

I have heard and read a lot of possible issues with the battery/IBS and water/moisture which is why I went and fixed up the tubing for the sunroof drain hole.

Im just not sure because the battery has been replaced already and the test today came back good so there must be something else wrong with it.

@aja540i any ideas?

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Time frame isnt an issue, and you may even have to leave it sitting a while to make sure the car goes to sleep before you get an accurate reading. Just do not try and crank the engine.

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45 minutes ago, qube said:

Can I have the negative terminal disconnected for a long time while testing this?

I think under 0.5A is considered normal.

I have heard and read a lot of possible issues with the battery/IBS and water/moisture which is why I went and fixed up the tubing for the sunroof drain hole.

Im just not sure because the battery has been replaced already and the test today came back good so there must be something else wrong with it.

@aja540i any ideas?

I am chasing a similar issue in mine, apparently some of the keyless entry modules can fail preventing the car from going to sleep, but I haven't dived into it too deeply, I had some serious wiring issues in my tailgate loom, but have fixed those, I have also replaced a faulty alternator regulator and my IBS/ earth cable, which needed doing but haven't fixed all the issues!

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after a bit of mucking around, I think Ive come to the conclusion that it needs a new battery.

Anyone have any tips on which brand/size/rating to go for on this car?

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the standard battery is usually between 70-92Ah, depending on spec. have read on some UK forums (can't remember which) that they would go to a 110Ah unit?  Bosch is good, though I think the OE battery is Exide? 

https://www.mrpositive.co.nz/bosch-s5-premium-din155-automotive-4x4-battery-950cca/ may be suitable? 

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Also unplug the IBS cable.

I got a 100AH non-AGM battery in my M5.  Just coded it to the car.  Saved a couple of hundy over an AGM.

Edited by GorGasm

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Yep you can leave the IBS unplugged.

https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/78058-impact-of-leaving-the-ibs-disconnected/

 

Yep you can code it for a non-AGM battery.  Can't remember the exact size I got for mine, cost $350.

E B080                  BATTERIE_80AH                   //80 Ah-Batterie
E B090                  BATTERIE_90AH                   //90 Ah-Batterie
E B110                  BATTERIE_110AH                  //110 Ah-Batterie
E A090                  BATT_AGM_90AH                   //90 Ah-AGM Batterie (SA536)
E A080                  BATT_AGM_80AH                   //80 Ah-AGM Batterie
Edited by GorGasm

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Ibs disconnected but car still losing charge. Havent been driving it though because its started to lose functions like rear view camera, passenger window, sunroof etc. still starts up and gets to 14v but when its off its at about 11.5v. Had logged heaps of error codes mostly undervoltage stuff. Cleared it but the windows and stuff still dont work. 
 

Guess i will need a new battery..

Edited by qube

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I got a decent AGM High Capacity batty for around $400 (from memory?),  Koba SA59520 95AH (20HR), 850A (EN), 180MIN (RC) recommended as excellent VFM.  Mine's been in since Oct 2019 and only ~5000kms (because Covid), and there's be ZERO issues in that time.

Edited by Olaf
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Do u think if i replace the battery the electric stuff will magically start working again? Haha

 

edit:

also @Olaf whats tour normal idle RPM? Mine idles at 660 and the vibration is quite bad. Getting engine and trans mounts fitted next week to hopefully sort it but it seems quite low. If i lightly step on the gas and push the rev upto 7-800 its buttery smooth at idle no vibrations

Edited by qube

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@qube 

Your battery is still good bro, still got another notch on that before it's dead dead ?

image.png.1da84756571ff1335cafa89f20a6b352.png

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On 11/6/2020 at 10:33 PM, qube said:

Do u think if i replace the battery the electric stuff will magically start working again? Haha

 

edit:

also @Olaf whats tour normal idle RPM? Mine idles at 660 and the vibration is quite bad. Getting engine and trans mounts fitted next week to hopefully sort it but it seems quite low. If i lightly step on the gas and push the rev upto 7-800 its buttery smooth at idle no vibrations

I wouldn't say "it'll cure all your ills", but I am free of all the odd niggles that used to bug me from time to time  since replacing batty.  I don't use AA Battery Service anymore, waste of oxygen (AA member for decades).

Mine idles smooth as butter and rock-solid at just 500rpm (at operating temp), but V8.  Changing the engine and trans mounts was a very worthwhile maintenance job, made the whole experience so much smoother.  My e46 and e30 have also been much better for new mounts.  The e60 V8 (not sure if theyre different for 6 cyl) are large fluid-filled jobs.

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