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53 minutes ago, M3AN said:

For the 130i boys and girls, is the stock rear swaybar blue? Mine is blue and that strikes me as a little odd for OEM.

 

Nah, black is stock. What thickness is it?

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11 minutes ago, Jacko said:

Nah, black is stock. What thickness is it?

I'll have to measure it... that fact that I've failed to do so already is pitiful. Doesn't look very thick tbh, less than 15mm I'd say at a guess.

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Oh dear.

I have one key for the 130i and it's now locked in the car. One door is ajar but latched, one window is down 10mm and that's it. Boot and bonnet are closed.

Ideas?

Answer: a long, thin piece of timber, an extendable magnet, masking tape, hook pick and a whole lot of luck! Had the window not been down a fraction (because an extension cord is hanging out of it) I would have been screwed. Equally if I couldn't reach the key I would have been screwed. If my key loop wasn't magnetic and quite large I would have been screwed. Oh, and my phone was in the car. 

I assume the alternative is to smash a window?

Now I need to get a spare key cut. 

Edited by M3AN

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Do the doors unlock if they're ajar and pushed closed? 

Is the key in the slot or on a seat or something, could you use a stick magnet or coat hanger to retrieve key or press button? Or is it stuck covered in the boot? 

Edited by KwS
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8 minutes ago, KwS said:

Do the doors unlock if they're ajar and pushed closed? 

Is the key in the slot or on a seat or something, could you use a stick magnet or coat hanger to retrieve key or press button? Or is it stuck covered in the boot? 

Good idea on the ajar door, I've just gone and replicated the situation (but with the key in my pocket this time) and pushed the door closed, it stayed locked.

But stick+magnet worked. ?

Edit: key was in tray under armrest, lid was up. Now I shall keep the 'key' part of the fob in my pocket when I'm working on the car!

Edited by M3AN
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1 hour ago, M3AN said:

Edit: key was in tray under armrest, lid was up. Now I shall keep the 'key' part of the fob in my pocket when I'm working on the car!

Better habit to get into is to always leave the drivers window down when working on the car. Standard practice for most mechanics for that reason.

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2 minutes ago, KwS said:

Better habit to get into is to always leave the drivers window down when working on the car. Standard practice for most mechanics for that reason.

Annoyingly the windows don't power up when you open the door, unlike the e36. Not sure why, that's dumb really.

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Does anyone in NZ offer Vanos unit rebuilds? For an M62 in my case.

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On 10/7/2020 at 9:24 PM, tire said:

Does anyone in NZ offer Vanos unit rebuilds? For an M62 in my case.

What's wrong with it if I may ask? I've rebuilt a few units over the years and it is VERY DIYable. Hardest part is probably sourcing a kit here....almost certainly needs to come from overseas. I suspect any 'euro specialist' place will be more than happy to do the job for you. 

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Anywhere in Auckland do a sensibly priced auto box filter and fluid change? I didn't bring my auto fluid hand pump thingy from the UK and don't quite have the access in my garage to do it....AT fluid is my kryptonite too...I always have a a mishap with it :D

 

 

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On 9/7/2020 at 3:59 PM, M3AN said:

Oh dear.

I have one key for the 130i and it's now locked in the car. One door is ajar but latched, one window is down 10mm and that's it. Boot and bonnet are closed.

Ideas?

Answer: a long, thin piece of timber, an extendable magnet, masking tape, hook pick and a whole lot of luck! Had the window not been down a fraction (because an extension cord is hanging out of it) I would have been screwed. Equally if I couldn't reach the key I would have been screwed. If my key loop wasn't magnetic and quite large I would have been screwed. Oh, and my phone was in the car. 

I assume the alternative is to smash a window?

Now I need to get a spare key cut. 

A locksmith (most cover auto locks too as they are the same) of any repute can get you in with a lockpick in about 60 seconds. You might get them for under 120 bucks with the callout fee. Beware the locksmith who wants to start drilling . I would go this way over smashing the glass anytime. 

And once you've been bitten with this....winding one or even both windows down (for the paranoid) is a habit that never leaves you. Sometimes if I need the doors shut and windows up for some reason I pop the boot as can go in that way if needed. 

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On 10/7/2020 at 9:24 PM, tire said:

Does anyone in NZ offer Vanos unit rebuilds? For an M62 in my case.

Talk to Jon at Auto38 in Newtown.

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1 hour ago, Olaf said:

Talk to Jon at Auto38 in Newtown.

Done :)

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Riddle me this... 

This just ignition on - engine not running. Starting the engine makes no difference to the speedo, which continues round past 220 (at which point I turned the ignition off). 

Note the centre LED doesn't light up at all. 

Any idea what's happened to cause this? 

 

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1 minute ago, gjm said:Any idea what's happened to cause this? 

 

Nope, zero idea.

but David from Get Electronic will.

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1 hour ago, gjm said:

Any idea what's happened to cause this? 

Cause? No.

But I'd disconnect the battery for ~20 mins to reset it and try again. Then cluster test/diag via INPA or similar.

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4 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Cause? No.

But I'd disconnect the battery for ~20 mins to reset it and try again. Then cluster test/diag via INPA or similar.

Battery is disconnected - I'll leave it overnight. 

I even remembered to not close the boot lid... ?

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9 hours ago, M3AN said:

But I'd disconnect the battery for ~20 mins to reset it and try again. Then cluster test/diag via INPA or similar.

 

9 hours ago, gjm said:

Battery is disconnected - I'll leave it overnight. 

Reconnected this morning, and turning the ignition key didn't reveal a zombie speedo climb.

However, the two displays in the lower part of the dash aren't displaying anything. I think there is power to the displays, just no activity.

I think the speedo works as it should, but I've not taken it out on to the road. Got it up to 30km/h on the drive.

Indicators and (as far as I could tell quickly) other lights are working.

If I can get out of work without being exhausted and in daylight, I'll see if I can remember how to use the Win7 laptop... Not much opportunity to have someone visit, and the nearest other scanning-capable place is 60km away.

Edited by gjm

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Looks like it was a water/damp issue. The problem occurred after prolonged heavy rain...

The battery disconnect/reconnect was probably a red herring.

Yesterday, after a couple of days sitting in lovely sunshine, everything is working exactly as expected. ?

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Looking at 130 wheel bearings, FAG are apparently the OEM for BMW.. and are a third the price of things like SKF.

Are they actually the OEM, and if so why are the aftermarket ones so pricey?

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I dont where SKF are sourced and manufactured these days but they tend to be the most expensive bearings in general. Ive had FAG bearings from Germany, India, Romania etc but no issues. 

Im sure where BMW source them from for new vehicles is different to where parts suppliers get them from.

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E30 Maplight mirror - is the wiring for these in place in most cars, or does it require splicing into the wiring for the interior light? Thinking of fitting one to Mrs M's Baur.

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28 minutes ago, gjm said:

E30 Maplight mirror - is the wiring for these in place in most cars, or does it require splicing into the wiring for the interior light? Thinking of fitting one to Mrs M's Baur.

On mine, the factory wiring has a plug behind the passengers speaker in the the footwell. You'll need to then take this all the way up to the mirror. 

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2 hours ago, nick496 said:

On mine, the factory wiring has a plug behind the passengers speaker in the the footwell. You'll need to then take this all the way up to the mirror. 

Thanks Nick - I can have a look for that.

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Anyone out there in Auckland happen have a mandrel for wheel bearing kit that is 85mm ID? One in my kit is 82mm.. there are beers on offer. 

IMG_20201225_163527.jpg

IMG_20201225_163513.jpg

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