Tbirdsteve

The Jatco in the car was going fine before I swapped the engine - the car has 302000 k's on it and the Jatco had never given any problems. I used the car to tow a 6000 pound Thunderbird on a car trailer for about 20 miles (they don't steer or stop too well in that configuration). The trans survived fine but the engine developed a cracked head a few weeks later (might have been a coincidence). Does anyone know if I yank the engine again can I get at the oil pump from the engine bay to replace or repair the oil pump, or could I do it from underneath without removing the trans or engine? Many thanks, Steve

Hi and thanks for the responses. I was suspecting the trans pump but know very little about auto's, let alone BMW ones. Is there any easy way to check the condition of the pump? I wasn't very fussy on the original install and stupidly brought the engine and trans together using bolts instead of lining it up properly. The second time I installed it went together very easily with no "forcing". After checking the Internet I discovered that the trans can be damaged if the engine is repalced in a hurry which is what I was doing. Also how hard is it to swap the trans oil pump in a Jatco? Are there idiot-proof instructions anywhere? Many thanks, Steve

Hi all, I recently changed the engine on our 94 single VANOS 325i with the Jatco 5 spd auto after the old engine cracked it's head. The replacement engine starts and runs fine but has no drive. I pulled it out again to make sure the torque converter was properly fitted etc and then reassembled but still no drive. For good measure I also then drained and replaced the trans fluid but still no joy. When changing the engine I left the trans in and just pulled the engine out through the top in the way you'd do most other cars, rather than pulling the front off the car and removing engine and trans together. Very fiddly but after doing it twice I'm comfortable with this method and it doesn't take too long. Any ideas or help much appreciated thanks. Steve

I'm looking at bringing in a 1999 E39 V8 but unfortunately LTSA has changed the restrictions again. Does anyone know if this car will meet the new Emissions rules which kicked in on January 3rd 2008? Is there a list somewhere like with the Frontal Impact requirements, or do they test each car individually at the border to make sure it's ok? It's been a few years since I lasted imported anything and I haven't kept up with all the latest.

The Holden pistons aren't as high as BMW ones. Engine builder said that BMW 323 pistons would hit the valves with the 320 head on top. This lowers the compression down to whatever ratio is now is. Had 1200 psi compression when I last checked it about a year ago. The interior is in great condition, exterior good, but minor rust is just starting to creep in around the boot and little bubble on a door. Needs broom handle (not included) to hold bonnet up. Colour is silver or grey. Has sunroof and factory alloys too (14"). L-Jetronic ignition, new plugs, cap leads, air-filter. Steve

Sorry, 1983 - first of the E30's. Car was originally a 320i. No tow bar. Also new cambelt less than 1000 kms ago. Power steering, electric mirrors. Central locking needs re-connecting after panel beater didn't plug it back in when fixing a door. Steve

Finally selling our first baby that started us off on Bimmers. We got this from an engine rebuilder and it's continued to impress us in the 4 years we've owned it. Running 323i block with Holden pistons and 320i head to give 2400cc capacity. Has 5 spd Getrag manual, aftermarket springs and shocks (Peders?) and aftermarket exhaust plus various other goodies. The engine was built and installed about 70,000 kms ago. Have replaced steering rack last month, new SI board batteries, main battery and ignition leads and cap. Very reliable car that gets 40 mpg on a trip and goes like a cut cat when you take it over 3000 rpm. Only 295,000 genuine kms. Needs tie rod end replaced for warrant (got one somewhere - just got to find it) and am told brake pedal has too much travel (I have a spare master cylinder and booster just arrived yesterday). This has been a truly great car which we will be sorry to see go but wife wanted 4 doors which is why she now drives an E34. I'm not sure if it's got limited slip - we got a spare back end with it when we bought it but I sold it - not sure if that was the fancy one or if it's on the car. I jacked it up today and when I spin one wheel the other doesn't move if that helps anyone. Couldn't find any tags on diff but didn't look too hard either. A great car for only $3000.

Anyone know if I can replace my melted/collapsed 1990 M20 pistons with ones from a 1986 M20? I don't want to buy the short block they're in only to find the tops of the pistons are different. Thanks in advance Steve

Is it early E30 and do you have driver's side outer headlight? Steve

E21 power steering rack in good order for 6 cylinder E21. Includes lower steering coupling in excellent condition. Steve

Need driver's side outside light for early E30 Steve

1983 E30 (mongrel engine) 295,000 kms 1989 E34 2.5l 185,000 kms 1990 E34 2.5l 105,000 kms (just killed the engine a few weeks ago - need another) 1977 Ford Thunderbird 72,000 miles I had a 69 Dodge a few years ago with 480,000 miles when I sold it. And a 89 Fairmont with 520,000 kms still going good when sold. Steve

Need an M20 block and/or pistons due to heat damage on my E34. Any help appreciated. Steve

Is your heater working? If not it could be obstructed by an air-lock. If you have a new radiator and hoses you may have an air-lock in the system. Unless your cooling system is bled properly when these items are changed you will get air in the cooling system which prevents the coolant from circulating. The temp gauge will be reading the temperature from near the radiator, which may be cool, meanwhile the coolant in the block may be at or near boiling point. When the temp needle suddenly flicks to high it is often measuring the steam temp in the system.There is a bleed screw or nut at the top of the thermostat housing - warm the car up and undo it to release the air (ensure coolant level is full and heater is on). Keep it released until all the air is out and coolant escapes. Keep topping up the coolant and repeating above until you are certain there is no more air in there. Try not to burn yourself. If you ignore an overheated engine it can be quite expensive. Steve

I sold the spare parts off the E30 shortly after getting it, also before realising how good they were and what they were worth. Also swapped the sports seats for more comfortable ones. It was our first BMW and has gone so well that we have stuck with them. Quite pleased from the performance out of non-V8 cars and the handling is unbeatable, especially the E30 with all its aftermarket bits.