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Got back from a round trip down south and up the West Coast with the parents last week, clocking up around 2,400km across 6 days. Threw in the old stock rear springs beforehand. Whilst it didn't completely eliminate the rubbing, it isolated it to only the harshest dips in the road when catching them at high speeds, but overall much better and meant I could drive with way less stress and way more confidence. Considering this was the first road trip I've taken the car on with 4 adults and a bootful of luggage on board, I can't really complain about the little rubbing still remaining. This was an outlier of a situation and with 1-2 people on board, I don't think rubbing will be an issue on the stock springs. Some absolutely amazing roads out there and an absolute ideal place to put the car through a proper stress test after the big rebuild. Some small issues aside, the car performed perfectly and effortlessly ate up the km's. Queenstown - Glenorchy is still my favourite bit of road in the country but also enjoyed experiencing the Queenstown - Te Anau and Wanaka - Haast routes for the first time ever. The folks loved their first time in NZ as well, saying it felt like they've been to 5 different countries in the short time here, such was the variety of landscapes behind every new mountain ridge. Good good times.

Had this little badboy for an amazing day in the sun today - Bday gift from the wife. So much fun - 140whp and 600kg is more than enough for me - made the E30 feel like driving a houseboat afterwards. Incredible steering and brake feel and the noise from the 4 banger 20V with ITBs and side pipe was truly savage. Would reccomend!

Who else clicked on this thinking @Kees had done something stupid again 😂 I got peddled around Brands Hatch in a Radical R400 - nothing else since has come close to being as visceral. I can see why this type of car gets people more hooked than heroin.

Today was fresh index 12 injectors

Do a M20 swap

Here you go. Significantly better and fresher than it was at 95km

😆

Had another fun run up to Kaikoura this past Sunday with a group of colleagues. The bimmer was by far the least exotic of the bunch and might have looked a bit out of place among a group of V8's & restored classics but great fun to drive none the less. Was great fun listening to the Mustangs roar in the twisties and keeping up with the Aston on the straights. The 240z was the highlight for me. Fully restored fellow straight-6 and looking absolutely immaculate. Awesome writeup on the project if anyone cares to know. As expected, without any passengers on board there was no sign of rubbing from the rear. Car felt nice and planted throughout and unsurprisingly felt more nimble than the previous time on the same route without the added weight of other humans on board. The no-crank gremlin reared its head just once along the way but started up after a few turns of the key. Will need to have that addressed sooner rather than later. Alignment & WoF next week, then cert the week after. Hoping for some smooth sailing.

Or the M3/M4 CSL with their shitty red accents everywhere 🤮

Bro’s

Not a good time to be trying to sell their week-end toys. Where costs are starting to bite quite a few people are looking to cash up the toys. Unfortunately the flip side of this is that there are very few buyers looking for those toys so the market is very flat. Anyone that does have a little cash is in a great position to get something nice for a good price.

Side view 👍 IMG_1711.mov

sell it and buy a 330i or 335i etc

To all Bimmersport members, Please note our Xmas Hours this year!

Hmm there is the whiff of a "desperate" seller here

Indeed. By my rough calculations you are looking around $700 incl shipping for front struts, rear shocks with bump stops\boots and mounts. Not too bad if you can do the work yourself. If you start adding suspension arms, links, bushings etc then it usually ramps up cost to varying degrees depending on the vehicle.

Looks aside the E46 being more simple and generally cheaper to keep on the road is why id choose it (assuming both are in similar condition). 2004 will have the 'best' subframe floor version too. I know the in UK they have rust issues but the odds of that here are surely slim.

Yep still in the area. Welcome to check out, always cool to compare e30s!

My camera still works as normal when the sensors detect I am close. Maybe check if there is something you can tweak with coding? I was able to directly compare towing with this vs my father's V8 diesel 70 series landcruiser (2017) which has been chipped. In nearly every way I prefer the BMW. The torque converter makes up for what it lacks in low range gearing. It handles better, brakes better and performs better. Both have the same redarc braking system installed. The landcruiser is 1000 times better off road and will outlast the BMW by a long way no doubt but it's such an agricultural and unrefined beast I couldn't have done 3,000kms in it like we did on holiday.

If you end up wanting a more "out of the box" option check out the likes of: https://venoxy.com/695-e46. They do customs as well as the standard options on their website.

They were pretty snug to go in, next time they are off I'll try and remember to pop them off ... not sure it'll look any good tho personally Front suspension / steering bits: No pics to support, but added some Whiteline adjustable front sway bar end links, new front LCA's and inner / outer tie rod ends recently since none of that was done during the build and there was a bit of a knock that could be felt when hitting bumps. Mostly cleared it up 🤷‍♂️ The adjustable end links were mostly to cater for 'not quite OEM' angles between strut and bar which was giving the OEM links a hard time. Some other bits: Got a 2011 370Z ECU from the USA to swap in. The folks at UpRev (my OEM ECU software) have limited / less support for the JDM ECU's and I was striking issues with a couple things ... Map selections. The ECU has support for 5 different maps but they were struggling to debug my old JDM ECU as to why it was not changing maps. Now with a 2011 USDM model they should be able to get the map selection working, fingers crossed. My ECU was from an auto so did not recognise the clutch switch (which i have yet to install) so I can use the launch control, full throttle shift and other 'ARC' features that need a clutch switch Got some 'Advanced Wheel Locks' lock nuts ahead of some kind of press in stud conversion happening at some point Got some Performance MRP weld on aluminium flanges for MAF sensors so I can make some new intake tubes at some point

After a RHS facelift headlight halogen in good nick probably dreaming right

That was such a mad corner

I don't see any issue with this. He's putting in the effort so he can profit from it. I do have an issue with who cut a hole in the hood of a 3.0? Just needs a piece of steel and it was handy?

Done all my rear BMW ones with this - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/repair-kits/listing/4429644283

The 27 piece kit looks to cover most things, although I think for wheel bearing yes as you say you'll need a dedicated socket or puller for it as most wheel bearing are much bigger than 80mm nowadays.

The unworn houndstooth Recaros that are in there now should defray the ‘rose city cars’ tax somewhat? Nice but 96k buys you quite a lot of Porsche / Audi RS / Maserati…

Most headunits will work fine with correct wiring adapter (plug and play connects factory wiring to new headunit). Most aftermarket units look out of place imo but i used this one years ago in my Mercedes of same vintage, looked and worked fine - https://www.amazon.com/VDO-Continental-TR7412UB-European-Bluetooth/dp/B08D2R48HZ

Well-used assortment of quality 3/8” drive extensions filling a gap in my 3/8 set. 1970’s Stahlwille, Koken, Snap-On. Estate sale.

Three pedals good, two pedals bad. 😀

I would always pick an E34 over a E39 these days. It's not 2010 anymore. The E39's are all flogged time bombs. Most of the flogged time bomb E34's are long gone to the wreckers and only the loved ones remain. sh*t in 2010 most of the E39's had had zero maintenance. Imagine them now.

Thanks for your replies. I have lapped the valves and changed the stem seals. They were originally super gummed up. I wonder how many engines EGR + CCV have prematurely killed?

If you want to go real cheap and colorful look out for a 306 diesel, they are likley the cheapest car to run available, talking over 1000km per 60L tank, have comfortable (sometimes colorful) seats and are really really fun to drive if there are corners involved. 200km commute sounds punishing.

@HerbmiesterI think they are the replacement for the Dragon Sport (which were a bit average…)

Yeah, they are so much better with a manual, suits the car. Those that disagree just dont like the fact that they are better No different transmission to the 4 pots, GS6-37BZ-TJES is 130 box (370Nm rated), shared with Z4 3.0Si and thats it. In saying that there will be a bunch that have slightly different ratios/bolt holes/input shaft dimensions that will/will not work (M54 E46 ZHP, Z4M etc all have GS6-37BZs)

Don't feed the troll lads. Everyone knows N46 is good money after bad, best put out with the recycling.

H&R also do OE Sport - in the USA - providing that increased rate - progressive, at OE ride height. I'm running H&R Sport with KoniSport on my e30.It's firm but supple, the pairing works well. I'd have been happy with H&R OE Sport, 318iS height, but exch rate and freight favoured sourcing from Germany at the time, so not an option. The rate is excellent, the lower c of g helps, though I don't need the low.Handles well, is firm, though not jarring.

Weird code and wording but aftermarket scan tool so no surprise. If it is the OBC immobilizer then you could try a reset. Ive seen the procedure at some point but cant remember. Google search will yield no doubt.

Springs are calculated based on options and body style I presume hence no part numbers. Assuming no one has swapped them they are probably correct. As you know Eibachs prokit are soft and non specific, so stock touring appears to be the better choice

Also have an F11 535i and it has been great. Similar issues (front control arms, oil leaks, suspension airbags) which can be dealt with relatively cheaply if you can swing a wrench. No major fault just regular maintenance really. Confirm it is big car. Think of it like a 7 series wagon. They do handle pretty good despite the weight. Economy for me has been really good for a 3L turbo and i run on 95. On the Hamilton to South Auckland return trip i get under 7.5l/100KM. Current trip counter is at 11l/100km though as it has been doing a lot of under 5km trips in Hamilton. Basically, open road you will see something around 8l/100km and in the city 9-12l/100km. Wouldn't bother with a diesel, waste of money.

Missed these updates - wheels looking great and that belly shot!!

It was on sale not long ago at well under 2000. Bargain. And did we mention the mighty c-tek battery charger yet?

Spareto.com have been getting parts to me in just over a week. From Estonia! My recent order from chemist warehouse took 10 days from Auckland. Spareto.com does have various spring and shock options.

I've had a weak battery bring up Trans Failsafe on a 5HP19 in the past. so fingers crossed... I'm getting a lockup clutch slipping code on the 740 5HP24 but no real symptoms I can detect as yet. I will get my spare torque convertor rebuilt I think... it's sitting with the spare trans under the bench... what every '24 owner should have... 😁

Here's the summary of what I've had done on the E38 and by whom. I have now listed the vehicle on TradeMe ... as I want to focus on my E60 M5 as weekend car. 2022 Begley Motor Worx: Transmission/diff service Clean, sandblast and paint all four brake calipers Replace ABS module (remanufactured) Brake pressure pump LF suspension spring and tie rod Cabin, air and fuel filters Both batteries Front and rear brake pads and rotors Brake hoses Right front suspension spring Cooling system inc water pump but not the radiator (that came later!) Spark plugs Sump plug Alternator (reconditioned) LF door central locking PM module (2nd hand) 2 tyres Glass in both wing mirrors Left indicator Badges Driver's door Harbour Capital Auto Electrical: Resolve current draw - disconnected voice control module Repaired light control module wiring Replace hydraulic fluid in boot struts Spectrum Panel & Paint: Respray of whole car inc replacement driver's door Replace mouldings for windscreen and rear screen Novus: Refit windscreen properly to address wind noise Barry's Garage: Thorough polish, clean and groom Fibrenew: Leather clean and minor recolour where required 2023 Driscoll Motors Replace left rear window regulator (specials one of course for double glazed windows) Replace grill inserts Replace right front window regulator Rustkill and under seal on underside of vehicle Replaced radiator So yes, have done a fair bit of stuff to this one!

Possibly BMWs are so loved that they get repaired if they break, and have preventative maintenance completed. So there is plenty of discussion in the enthusiast communities about these topics. Whereas some other brands are just driven into the ground then ditched, with little in the way of enthusiasm to keep them going.

Got onto the 330i brake refurb. All disassembled, I had them vapour blasted by a fellow bimmerhead I'd met, saved a good number of hours on the wire wheel. Gave them an additional scrub and 3 coats of satin black caliper paint. Then threw on new seals, guide pins, rattle clips, OE rubber hoses and a set of speed bleeder valves, as well as Akebono pads (sorry @Olaf, I'll be careful). All tidied up and set aside. Also scrubbed down and major rust off the subframe and control arms, gave it a few coats of rust converter primer and the same satin black paint. Will get onto pressing in the new bushes and bearings next. Front hubs are also now disassembled and awaiting a tidy up.

Cheers, it looks like mine is all three sections... better pics below. No resonator. As for the diff, I'm not sure about the 120 but I suspect it's only the casing (same size) because the 120 never came with a LSD either. I should be able to work it out? Revolutions of wheel to driveshaft? Maybe somebody smarter than I on these things can inform me - might be a project for another day to work it out.

Agreed. 10-15k service maybe cheap insurance for the cist of a service, or just do it yourself. Had a Ford diesel with that service interval period, serviced at Ford from brand new, blew up on us a few months out of warranty at just under 100,000km, Ford charged near 15k to fix it because there were no second hand motors available at the time, they refused to accept that it was a manufacturers problem... then the next year they extended the warranty from 3 to 5 years. FML Guess who never purchased a new Ford ever again.

This is becoming project content. I fried my turbos a month ago and just replaced the cartridges yesterday. Such a painful job, N54 sucks 😄