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For Sale: 1995 E34 540i/6 six speed manual (1 of 16 imported) $12,000 ONO (Also listed elsewhere) Location: Wellington, NZ Note: This is being sold as a restoration project on an as-is-where-is basis and is priced accordingly. Will not be answering questions like 'what does it need'. Keen for the car to go to an enthusiast. Due to level of interest, there will be limited viewing dates: Wellington 3-4 August 9am-5pm by advance appointment only. by advance appointment only. Offers considered following this. The sale included numerous parts including a number of spare panels. If you are genuinely interested PM me for a list. No response will be made to requests for individual parts. Any parts not taken at sale will be sold separately. Will be sold with min. 6 Months reg & current WOF New Zealand New Vin number: BKxxxxx M60/2 engine Diamantschwartz Metallic (303) 1 of 2 540i/6 of this colour imported Black Bison Leather sports interior ASC+T Alarm Blackout trim Sunroof Dimming rear-view mirror Walnut trim Auto A/C M Sport suspension HiFi Loudspeaker system BMW Business head unit & CD changer Trip computer EXTRAS INSTALLED IN CAR: Genuine BMW EW34 rare electric rear blind, including original loom and switch in original seat centre console. Fine working condition. Genuine BMW E34 cruise control, including stalk, control unit, cable & actuator all in fine working condition. Genuine BMW boot floor lipped tray Genuine full original boot lid toolkit Genuine Engine bay lighting Genuine rechargeable glovebox torch Genuine original Business Sound System including head unit, CD changer with code (supplied separately- installed head unit NFS). Bilstein Sport suspension This is a very reluctant sale, I have owned the car for 18 years (130,000km~320,000km), and has had oil & filter changes every 10,000km with Fuchs oil. 95% of the mileage is open-road running 700km round trips and the engine is still as swift and powerful as the day I bought it. Anyone who knows or has driven this model knows these are not a standard E34. The combination of the quad cam V8, 6 speed manual transmission and sports suspension make it a go-cart in comparison. Selling as a project on an as-is basis. Needs a new owner with the energy and time to restore her. Unfortunately, I find myself 18 years on, no closer to having either. The car comes with heaps of new and used spare parts I have been collecting for 18 years with the intent or restoration. Not interested in selling individually, as parts have been collected specifically for this purpose with the car is really where they need to go. While the interior including the Recaros is in good condition with the original carpet unworn (matted all the time I’ve owned it), the exterior has needed work since I bought it. The driver’s door lower edge has some rust, and there are a few spots around the car that could be easily addressed during a full review. The spots on the roof and A-pillars are professionally neutralised stone chips in anticipation of future restoration. The clear coat has gone on the genuine BMW/BBS deep dish wheels. The A/C pump has failed and been disconnected. This is not guaranteed as a complete list of items that need attention. PM me for a parts list. Contact for viewing

My e31 history - owned a 4.4l Steptronic and own 4l Manual 840ci's (and test driven 1 early 850i). Here's a green apple to red apple comparison: e31: 96 840ci - 4l, 6-spd, 'msport' suspension (think package is standard shocks and shorter springs) and wheels, and big bore exhaust (only known mod). Travelled 120kms. Monaro: '02 V2 - 5.7l, 6-spd, standard suspension and wheels, and big bore exhaust (only known mod). Traveled (when I had it) 175km. I found the e31 was/is a way better car all round. Power/torque: There wasn't that much difference, to me anyway (disclaimer: I ain't no racing driver lol). Both have 'more than enough for me' torque across the rev range. They can get up ad boogie, especially in the crucial 80-100 range. If you want a fun or performance then manual is a must. if you want to cruise then the auto is fine - but steptronic wins in that department (also have an auto HSV) as it is best suited to the GT nature of the e31 IMO. The old 4spd auto in the v12 did the job well but was nothing spectacular. Handling/suspension: This is where there is night and day between the two (both were more than likely on original suspension). The e31 is more refined, smooth and balanced. No issues around town, even better on the motorway and handles the twisties just fine (going at pace but not driving at the limit). Agree that this is where you notice the weight. But it doesn't detract from the experience. On the other hand, the Monaro felt the opposite as a package and had a more harsher ride/feel. Fine around town, motorway is fine - but you do start to feel the bumps and jarring. Through the twisties was the worst - it would often understeer when going at pace into a corner and other times it was like it wanted to fight against you. I found it a bit dangerous. I replaced some bushes (maybe shocks too but can't remember) which improved things but not by much. I've said that when a Commodore grows up it wants to be a BMW haha. And would I get another Monaro - Hell Yeah!! As a side note, I have full front suspension (real challenging to find rear suspension components) and shocks for all corners to go into the e31, so will be interesting if this changes things - but is fine enough for me at the mo. e31 driving summary: It is a GT car and it doesn't hide from that. But don't believe the original reviews or those that say it is slow - it never was a performance car although it looks like it. It does all duties, shopping, cruising and long distance. If you do want 'performance', then its the manual hands down - good luck finding one! - or a CSI - and good luck finding one of those cheap! But the auto is fine too - would recommend the steptronic. Then there's the feeling of driving a pretty special car, there's just something about this era of BMW, and the e31 takes it up a level. By todays standard, it has a 'small car' feel about it interior wise. but it is a friggen awesome place to be in! I also have an e60 M5. They don't compare drive and comfort wise... but when I drive them back to back, the smile is just that much bigger after the 840ci 😊 Oh, and lastly, I've taken both to the summer cars and coffee event hosted by the local car museum. No one looked twice (or once!) at the M5. Its the complete opposite with the 840ci - quite embarrassing waiting in line to park with people walking past or coming up saying - "what is that!, F#$%*&g awesome bro! Holy Sh!t I've only seen one on the internet" haha. Sorry for long post but hope this helps someone 😉

Today marks 3 years of ownership of the M5, it also marks the day that the mechanical warranty runs out - no doubt it will turn into a pumpkin at midnight. Over the past three years I have replaced: - Clutch / flywheel - Heater control valve - A/C condenser - 10x Spark plugs - 1 coil pack - Module that controls the airbag compressor - Oil cooler - SMG reservoir filler cap - Lower control arm bushes - 4 x tires And as is fit for the anniversary it's at BMWorkshop having the annual service. Would I buy it again after the last three years, yes no question. It's a high maintenance item, but it's cheaper than a therapist and without leaning too heavily on the YOLO mentality it's pointless being the richest man in the graveyard. The first picture ever taken after signing the papers, perfectly framed up by my wife............ And the first night at the Clearwater Resort being the family wagon

Smashed some B roads today in the eastern BOP, its so easy to forget how f**king good these cars are. Ive done 50,000km in the Skoda to 2000km in the 130. 130 is hands down a better car to drive hard, its in a different league. Skoda is a better car to sit in traffic with.

I paid $17500 for it, which if it's even half decent I think it's a great price. I think I'll do rod bearings anyway for peace of mind, this one will eventually get roof racks with bike racks, so should be quite easy to spot.

Looks like it went to a good home though.

BBS RG-R 18x8.5 ET38 on 245/40's Been on the look out for a decent set of wheels for awhile. E36\E46 wheel selection is pretty rubbish in terms of availability you if want something different in reasonable offset\tyre size. Saw these on locally on facebook along with set of similar LM's. Looking at photos i decided the RG's would suit a newer car like the E46 better. They are forged wheels at just over 8kg compared to 10-11kg style 72's, very light even with the tyres. Originally they had silver centers which i would of preferred, but beggers cant do choosers and they have been freshly power coated. Tyres fill the front wells great but do touch the fender lining under full lock as expected. Will be swapping out for current ones then moving over to a 235/40 square at some point. Gold center caps to replace to red ones if i can find some at reasonable price, otherwise ill swap BMW ones onto them. Part 2 of the DMSO clean. Didnt get everything as hot as id like and things were cooling down to fast to do a real throughout job but it works (completely black before). Used a vacuum bleeder to suck the fluid out which worked great, engine fired up instantly after cleaning Will do a another round in warmer weather to finish it off. Compression test after cleaning was 175-180 psi on all 6. Engine certainly feels stronger after doing these cleans, but be prepared for the exhaust to stink\smoke for ages if you do this part.

It was Marcus’s father. Neil. He is an enthusiast who did a lot of research on this car before acquiring it… Neil loved the look of mine with the CSI body-kit so ordered the kit with the mirrors. Personally, not sure the wheels befit the car. Sure- better than the boring original 16” this car came with from factory, but a set of staggered style 5’s or M- parallels would really elevate this car. Neil is now into modern American muscle.

I know this car well. It was a Singaporean import that was brought into NZ with very low k’s. Was purchased by an Aucklander who owned a famous furniture company. He owned it for a long time - and was serviced at BM Workshop. In 2007-2008 it was purchased by a friend of mine who worked at BMW NZ. He added the modern wheels and the M-tech CSI style Aero body kit. He drove the car moderately and was a fantastic custodian of it until he sold it 3-4 years ago. Very rare In Dakar yellow. Price is crazy cheap in my opinion. Great example of a classic car in a very rare and compelling colour.

Hi All, I am unsure if this has already been shared somewhere. But it seems the fastest and easiest way to get a map code. 1. Download BimmerCode app (free version works) and connect your phone through an OBD adapter. 2. Connect to your car and select the Head Unit 3. Click on Activation Codes 4. I needed to select the “00DE Professional Nav system” as this was the only one to generate the correct file. 5. Click on Export and email to yourself. 6. Use this file with the "FSC Generator 1.91" to get your map activation code. There is no need to use a USB stick or ESYS. Simply done in 5 minutes.

You really really really don't need that retrofit kit. Yes, it's not that much money but it's a waste of money none the less for what it is - 3 simple wires with standard BMW pins used in 90% of plugs throughout the car and 2 overly complicated splice connectors. I thought there was more to it so that's what I used the first time doing this retrofit (I bought the same kit for $21 from FCP 3 years ago, and even then it was overpriced) but have found literally no benefit to it. I've done 4-5 of these retrofits since and have never bothered, have just depinned and repurposed wires from parts cars and used a pair of these simple splice connectors instead. They work just as well and the end result is way less bulky than the weirdly complicated connectors that come in that kit. I've got a whole wiring loom sitting in a box in the garage, more than happy to depin some wires for you and post them your way if you don't happen to have any laying around already. Honestly, couldn't recommend that kit any less, not worth wasting money on.

My 330e has been pretty good. Current fuel average is 2.9l/100km but can get around Hamilton without charging. Comparing for gas at $2.70. I pay $11.43 per 100km excluding power. An EV pays $7.60 per 100km excluding power. An equivalent petrol would need to be using about 4.2l/100km to match. Got to add power costs there but you get the idea. Would prefer a 530e next time, but oh well.

Win!

Barbados Green (it's definitely not that!). Also: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/850i/listing/4823765166

Unfortunately it isn't Mauritius Blue (one of my favs for an e31). If memory serves, this could be a special 'individual' colour (just can't recall what it is) and I do like it! This colour for an e31 could be even rarer as it is one of the early cars, before 'individual' programme took off in the mid-late 90's. Oh, and this would be badged as an 850i (as it is pre-92/93).

@treoneI find this hard to believe.... 3 is always greater than 2! 😂 Just think about it, instead of just alternating colors you can pick from 3 different colors!

WTB / Gauging availability on S54 engines preferably complete and Getrag 420g transmissions. Had a look through forums and seem some for sale in the past but not sure on what sort of pricing or availability there is now. Hopefully looking for both with under 150k kms and in good condition. Still gathering funds for it all so just seeing what’s out there. Will be going into an e46 touring so any tips or leads on that side of things would also be appreciated if anyone’s done similar swaps. Cheers

A good youtuber , one of my favourites for e34 content

Pretty good. Screen reflection was always one of my biggest gripes with those android units compared to OE.

The real hero of that Video.

Schmiedmann have various ones on special. https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-E28/radiators-pg272-catn-ol

Hi, wondering if you have the following available? and if so, how much? Pair of FL tail lights Centre console for a coupe with no cut outs for electric windows or the sport switch. drivers sill trim that covers where the carpet meats the edge. (approx 1metre long, black) Thanks!

On the car stereo front the amplifier manufacturer Mobridge did a remote session into my amp. I’d asked if it was possible to code the Mobridge amp ( and dsp products ) to use four of the Idrive 6 B&W menu items.The Mobridge Amp has four dsp profiles that can be used , but on BMW F series B&O and Harman Kardon only uses two. The diagnostic on the amp is great. I just needed to press each of the Idrive sound profile options and the engineer was able to see what the Idrive sends to trigger the DSP settings. Within a few working days Mobridge was able to code the extra sound profiles and send back new Amplifier software to test. So I now have four DSP slots which are controlled by the BMW idrive 6 B&W menus. So I’ve done the following Profile 1 , Drivers seat position with appropriate time alignment running an Audio Frog / Harman house curve. Would call this an audiophile style tune with the front audio stage stilling above the bonnet with good width. ( I’m not and audiophile though , have been curved of that level of obsession 😀 ) Profile 2 , All seat tune , time alignment so bass is still forward of front passengers , centred at ear hight between driver and passenger front set. Profile 3 , like Profile 1 , but more bass between 15 -80 hz Profile 4 , at this stage , speakers only level matched, no time alignment or eq. Used as reference for evolution of system. But will probably use it for further map development of Profile 1 BMW B&W menu for context.

Funny you say that. I recently discovered my B30 isn't as quick as a B30 either 😅 Still enjoy driving it although it's been a good 2 months since I have... I've not done anything on the audio front apart from the headunit so doubt you'll find anything useful.

Awesome progress! god loves an e46 touring! Took mine on a club trip last weekend, the M54B25 certainly isn't quick like a B30, though the car remains enjoyable to drive. Going to hunt back through your thread looking at speakers and amplifier areas.

Has to be the best kept E46 in the country

Yes I have. Although i wasn't patient enough with the road rash bits, as it wiped too much off. (I need to do again). For normal chips its good and easier to level than OEM touch up paint. It's really the only option I can see for road rash areas. I would recommend.

Looking for a front undertray for a E87, 2008 123d Motorsport hatch. In Auckland, closer to the shore or Avondale the better. Cheers

@Jun $20k + buys a lot of RUC / charging. A small car is quite desirable if you do a lot of town running and that basically doesn’t exist otherwise. Leaf is a class bigger and byd / stellantis are still $35k

Yes with all this negative sentiment it will be feasible to add another M5 in depreciated price 10 years later 🤣

Hey, Used it myself when I was working as a detailer. It definitely does work and is easy to apply. But don't expect it to be as perfect as a fresh paint job. Certain angles in certain lighting will make it a little noticeable but if you're standing a meter back, it's pretty good. I was doubtful at first before I tried it.

Tomorrow the internet connection for bimmersport is going down, theres a reasonable chance I'll have it back up tomorrow night at the new place. In the meantime there is a new crew that are going to host it, they have a copy of the site as of tonight but theres been some issues around changing the name servers in time. Best case its back up tomorrow night. Worst case its down a week or so while the issues with the domain are sorted. Chur.

Hi All Joined up some time ago, as the marque has always been on my radar, and I've enjoyed soaking up some knowledge fro you guys, but have been distracted by various other things. Have a VW Passat wagon that crushes distance in comfort and a Discovery 3 that has delivered some epic trips to some remote locations. Recently picked up a 2008 135i (almost) sight-unseen off the internet (dealer flicking on a trade-in). Was cheap, clean, had the fold-away idrive i wanted and a glovebox full of receipts from a previous caretaker (HPFP and water pump done). At 130k, suspension is a bit tired, but so far nothing else has raised it's hand for attention. Have given it fresh oil & filters all round and planning coolant flush, brake fluid flush, as well as diff and trans fluid. Looking to replace the old shocks with Bilstein B4's (unless any better suggestions) and still need to check out all the bushings etc. - probably needs all them too.

In a Z3, there’s only one other person to say “Watch this!” to.

hope the new owner takes the M3 badges off the side skirts 🤦‍♂️

Continued on with the 'gentrification' by dropping in a new brake booster & master cylinder. Not that it necessarily needed it worth replacing after 20+ years of service since it was the last untouched component that could have been responsible for a suspected slight vacuum leak. Went with an OE ATE booster with a Febi master cylinder. Would have loved an ATE unit for the latter as well but unfortunately it was backordered, as were all other variants apart from the Febi one on Spareto and I wasn't keen on a 28 day wait. Febi obviously used a different casting method than the original but didn't look too bad quality wise. I guess time will tell as to its longevity. Transferred over the sensors, hoses and reservoir. I flushed the brake fluid when doing the engine swap and it still looked fresh up top, until I removed the strainer tube that revealed a puddle of black sludge sitting at the bottom of the reservoir. Glad to have all that washed out. With the booster disconnected I used the opportunity to easily take out the pedal box and change out the plastic pedal bushes. I hadn't thought of getting new ones at the time of the swap but did get a fresh set in the meantime, was just waiting for a chance to drop them in. I hadn't noticed any issues during normal operation but did notice the clutch pedal having some excessive side-to-side play when removing it, something that the new bushes tightened right up. The bleeding procedure was made infinitely easier by the cheapo pressure bleeder kit I picked up recently. Best $100 ever spent! Made the whole process an absolute breeze even as a one-man-band. Got the major bubbles out on all 4 corners, then ran the ABS bleeding procedure through INPA by routing my dedicated scanning laptop under the car using a bunch of USB cable extensions and bleeding the brakes through thoroughly once more. Then did the clutch and job's a good 'un. Whilst under there, I also drained the ATF from the gearbox and replaced it with some Redline MTL that @Sammo had generously given away. Absolute legend, owe you one mate. Threw on a new set of drain plugs along with it. Having driven it a few times since, naturally the MTL alone didn't make a night and day difference but feels like it added that little bit more weight to the shifts, making it feel a tad more solid and robust. I'm sure it also offers a bit more protection than the ATF so definitely glad to have the proper stuff in there now. Might be placebo but it also seems to have made it less prone to lurching when taking off in 1st gear. A bunch of effort for some slight 1% gains, all to get it closer to the point where I can just take the car out and enjoy driving it without fretting over something or another needing worked on. Finally getting there.

Lovely car - GLWS

Let’s fix the window, it’ll only take a couple of hours… Easy enough, let’s replace the door lock actuator while we’re at it… everything working on the test fit. Closed and locked my door, unlocked it and the mechanism jammed. Door wouldn’t unlatch. All of the above work is less fun to do crouched in the drivers footwell, but I did become somewhat of an expert on E36 door locks, sing out if you’re ever in the same situation! I ended up having to punch through the case and pick the lock. Shout out to @HELLBM for sourcing a replacement door lock, great to deal with as always. Good to have everything working as it should again!

Blew his load on the engine

Been a minute... very busy time. Engine is back in the car, everything is connected back up. Cut and welded the chargepipe and throttle body for a wiggins style clamp, bonnet latch got zinc coated and a few other bits and pieces tidied up. Downpipes are back in also, very painful job, o2 sensors back in and new exhaust is almost finished. Full stainless 3inch exhaust from the downpipes back, with a single adrenalin r louvre baffle resonator. All thats left now is the oil cooler setup, parts are on the way, fresh aeroflow oil coolers and all teflon line and fittings. Also will be putting in a check valve and a tee to allow for an accusump to be fitted at a later stage. Parts should arrive soon and then it will be ready to be fired up and dyno tuned. Will try and keep this updated more often.

The unworn houndstooth Recaros that are in there now should defray the ‘rose city cars’ tax somewhat? Nice but 96k buys you quite a lot of Porsche / Audi RS / Maserati…

Height is perfect amount for me.

Some photos - could use a wash...

After a 2 year hiatus due to family things it was a mad 3 month scramble to get the drift e36 back together with the new gen4 6.0, ecu, wiring, gbox, clutch, exhaust etc etc. Had a few teething issues with the new cam/valve springs and cooling system but managed to get it up and running the day we need to head off for two days of drifting 😰 so loaded up and hoped for the best... and we got it, two days full noise and not a single issue, couldn't believe it lol. Now its time to dial in more rear grip (running a 265/35/18) and find a good solution to upgrade the rearend - diff/axles

some more pics and a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=tQMpV1335no#t=10

https://www.rnz.co.nz/news/national/523154/nzta-employee-traded-motorists-private-information-to-gang-members-for-meth So I've opted my vehicles out of public data. How can I opt out of NZTA staff being able to access it? Ffs.