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  1. Today
  2. topnotchrally
    I have just been researching this as I want to change the oil in my diff and you need the right kind depending on the diff type. I have found that early Z3s had clutch diffs ands sometime in mid-late 99 they changed to torsen. This seems like reliable information to me, people saying the only way to tell what you have is to take the back off and look, but that the early ones definitely came with clutch diffs. What do you say to this? What is your statement based on? Also, IMHO the ABS can take care of locked wheels...I'd rather have a torsen, it doesn't wear out.
  3. swapsndeals
    Amazing those wheels look perfect to!
  4. Jacko
    Day 1 of operation "Save the Silver Lemon." Doesnt actually look toooo bad, has things growing on the top, all the fluids leaking out the bottom, but she has good bones! Wheel bolts were all seized, had to breaker bar them. Radiator is new, and someones put new bump stops on top of flogged out shocks. Started pulling the stupid sub box out, which turned into pulling all the interior out to chase the BS wiring. Will combine with pulling all the interior out, has a few hundred mouldy dick monalds chips under the seats and it smells like a hookers handbag.
  5. deedub
    @Deano1968 @gjm Y'all weren't kidding. Hands down best experience I've ever had with a workshop from Greg Hantz Autos. They will be my go to for my bimmers now.
  6. M3AN
    You're correct that ride height changes geometry but I have run both zero toe on this car F/R and now my preferred geometry which is F-ve and R+ve, all done with factory arms, bolts, etc. I do not have adjustable top mounts at the front, not necessary for my purposes (fast street). There will certainly be enough adjustment with the factory bits for 0* toe, front or rear.
  7. zac_
    I thought lowering the car changes the toe so I was mostly wondering if I lower the car will there be enough adjustment in the factory toe arms to get 0 toe. I might just look into getting aftermarket camber and toe arms if I get coilovers then will have to get the car certed. Do your front coilovers have camber adjustment on them or you need separate camber plates?
  8. M3AN started following Hi from Tauranga
  9. M3AN
    Welcome, glad you're enjoying your new car, post some pics when you can. 👍
  10. bootsy
    Hi all I've recently bought a 120i & I'm loving it!
  11. bootsy bootsy joined the community
  12. akapjay
    Funny you mention that! Just got home from taking mum to a yard so she could sit in a few vehicles to get a feel and first impression. 2012+ Honda Fit is what we're targeting now. She liked that the seat could adjust highest amongst those she sat in, and the option for hybrid.
  13. Neil McCauley
    Used Toyota and buy a 3 year dealer warranty.
  14. Vass started following WTB + advice: smaller vehicle for 70's lady
  15. Vass
    Hope you're not dead set on a BMW. I'd be real hesitant recommending any small BMW petrol engines that aren't 20+ years old, which probably is a no go in this case. Most modern 4-cylinders are riddled with problems, which is manageable if you don't mind some DIY, but not something I'd go for if your main goal is trouble free motoring. And the ones that aren't will be well beyond that budget. Honestly, I'd probably look at something small and Japanese, a Honda Fit, Suzuki Swift or similar. Should be plenty to choose from in that price range.
  16. E30 325i Rag-Top
    2 Series Active Tourer, often scorned by BMW enthusiasts as it’s not a very “sporty” model. However, very popular with the older customers. Avaialble as petrol, diesel or hybrid used or hybrid new. Comfortable, good interior space without being a massive car, good height to get in and out of. FWIW my 80+ year old folks have a 218d and mum is 5 foot nothing.
  17. Neil McCauley
    One thing to note is the Z3 LSD's are torsen style which can lend itself to losing lock up if the inner wheel loses its contact patch, that and they only lock under acceleration, not braking like a clutch style one will. Yes the rear suspension is the "same" as an E30 but all the 2.8's also had ASC+T as well as the LSD. That and a convertible will naturally have more chassis flex than a hard top car. The MZ3 used a clutch type LSD rather than a torsen style one.
  18. MD13
    Dug out my thread here Place in Auckland was Robinson's Instruments.
  19. Yesterday
  20. MD13
    Hey 993. I don't have his details sorry. I had this issue a year or two ago. Tried pixel fix and the online guides and made a mess. Took mine to an outfit in Auckland but that won't help you much. Turns out the panel from pixel fix was doa in any case. Think the other option is to recode a second hand one that's working but that's a bandaid fix. Good luck.
  21. jasera94
    Did anyone have the WYZEUP E30 V8 on watchlist and know how much that went for?
  22. akapjay
    Long story short, mum's car was written off and I'm sourcing some options. Mum's a 5 foot Filipina in her early 70s, so something smaller that she can see over the bonnet is ideal. Eg, I wouldn't put her in an X5 unless there was a Zombie Apocalypse. - Budget is $5 - 6k - I'd love to get her in a smaller diesel, eg: 123d, but she's dead set on a smaller petrol - Low maintenance and running costs prioritised over performance - Lower kms prioritised over higher kms, though evidence of regular maintenance is a trump card - Easy to drive and good visibility is a preference also. The only BMW options I see fitting this criteria are: - 1 series, 116i or 118i. - X1 - 2L 100k kms for $5k ish (zero experience with the X1 so on the fence) ^ any feedback on these models? Years to avoid, maintenance to keep on top of, what to look out for on inspection? Anything available in your fleet that you'd consider moving on? Located Auckland, but will travel for the right vehicle. Any other brands/models I should take a look at, bang for buck for a mature lady driver? Eg, any hybrid or more modern smaller vehicles I should consider to ma's comfort first? Pic attached - I'm 176cm for reference.
  23. M3AN
    Factory front arms and camber pin mod is around +0.2-0.3 degrees. There's no other adjust-ability with stock parts. Rear is also very little with eccentric bolts, but you don't want a lot of rear camber if you want the car to work properly, it's RWD after all. Edit: I see you asked about rear toe, not rear camber, duh on me. Rear toe is easy, you only need either zero or a tiny bit of in right? Stock parts can easily accommodate that.
  24. Palazzo
    https://www.facebook.com/share/p/15XAyuwzF4/?mibextid=wwXIfr a bog standard e30 steering wheel in what looks like average condition. $100.
  25. lcha089 lcha089 joined the community
  26. M3AN

    My 130i Build

    M3AN replied to Hutty008's topic in Projects

    F'ing love those wheels.
  27. E30 325i Rag-Top
    It’s also on BookFace where he states it’s getting a cert, and price of cert plus on roads will be on top of the. $25k
  28. Hutty008

    My 130i Build

    Hutty008 replied to Hutty008's topic in Projects

    Started getting the shocks and brakes off today, also test fitted the f8x brakes while I still had the chance. Next time this car rolls under it own power it going to be a completely different car. Its going to take a while but it will be worth the wait.
  29. Hutty008

    My 130i Build

    Hutty008 replied to Hutty008's topic in Projects

    If your's was for sale a year ago when I bought my car I definitely would have. Your car would have been a much better starting point. I keep a spreadsheet of how much I have spent on my car and it hard to believe how quickly things add up.
  30. elias
    Interesting to know about the LSDs. I’m currently putting the same driveline (m52b28 + zf 5 Speed) into an e30 sedan, which should be a good driving experience, and am looking for a suitable ratio LSD. From my understanding the z3 ones bolt straight into e30 subframes too, if you come across a spare z3 lsd let me know
  31. topnotchrally
    I agree, it would seem they should be worth 10-12k but I think it's a small market. Another reason they are a good buy is they ALL have LSDs! (All 2.8s) I bought mine 4 years ago on a bit of a whim. Turned out to be an excellent decision. I put B6 Bilsteins on stock springs. I am all in on the top down motoring, such a pleasure to drive moderately quickly. The engine, gears and steering are perfect. If you buy one, put new HD front control arms on, it makes a huge difference. (factory arms have huge wobbly rubber bushings). Sorry for the rant....
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