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  1. Today
  2. Neil McCauley
    This one is close too… https://www.facebook.com/share/7o8RdgK5Hy6ciWcQ/?mibextid=79PoIi
  3. Olaf
    Holy thread resuscitation batman. Nathan, I think I can do this. I have a cunning plan. And 3D scanning software on my phone, and a 3D printer generously given to me by a friend with a proliferation of them. I'm going to learn. First step, getting a scan of each side while I quickly replace first factory 2-ways with some free Alpines that came in a parts car. Then second stage, knock up something like those, based on cutting out the doors, using pre-printed parts - less downtime for the car as still no garage. I'm getting ahead of myself. Time to update the objectives, and my current solution. 1. Audio. As before, I listen to music. I used to be an audiophile. I'm more a 'flat earther' - the whole Linn/Naim thing from the 70's/80's that focuses on PRaT (Pace, Rythmn, and Timing). Conclusion? The car still remains a sh*t place to listen to music in. I want a better experience than 20+ year old factory. I want handsfree calling, playing 44.16 WAV files from USB, sometimes Spotify from my phone. Don't give me typical Japanese Audio with cut-glass highs and slow plodding over-blown one-note bass. I want TIMING, TIMING, TIMING, I want fast, tuneful bass, I wasnt it musical, baby. I am not looking for a disco in my car! 2. The car. The factory head unit stays. Kenwood Mechless Head Unit. This is a compromise. They look good, sound pretty good, have three sets of RCA output and some equalisation options that are 'enough' for me. I want integration with multi-Function Steering Wheel (which will be added soon). I listen to WAV files, FM, and Bluetooth sometimes. The Kenwood option works beautifully with an iPhone once paired, and is seamless for my wife using the car with her iPhone too. I can't be arsed with a double-DIN android unit or cabling a camera, useful as it may be. And the Kenwood is CHEAP. My car lives on the street - it must be stealth. I will not sacrifice trunk space and utility for a sub box. Any sub must be small, tight, tuneful - either mounted in the side panel, or abover the space saver spare in the trunk floor. I realise with a small box it probably constrains me to a small driver; this is a compromise I can live with. My sub must not be lagging behind the music; it's about sound reinforcement, not SPL sound-offs. It must be removable/reversible. it'll be a one-way job. Though the amp may stay with me. Who knows. 3. The work: I'm past massive fabrication work. I don't mind the idea of building a custom-fit sub box, but speaker pods and all that malarky, no thanks. I'm impressed by what others do, I'm sticking to 'simple'. Some dynamat in key places to quiet things down/stiffen things up: yes, by all means! 4. What am I thinking? Some free used 2-way component speakers in the front, an amp, and a maybe a sub, and a new HU. I read this from Audio-file In Car, UK and thought "I know the Audio File from my time in UK, they did Naim and real british HiFi... this is probably a good approach to music in the car" (as opposed to screechy in-car entertainment)... So as a base kit list (doesn't seem cheap - can I do similar and still avoid awful screechy out of time ICE for less money: Front door speakers: Alpine Type-S SPS171A 6.5" component two-ways. copyright Crutchfield. Having no skills with 3D printing, will not be a barrier to success. I now have scanning app on my phone, a 3D printer, and guidance from an expert. I figure I'll install the Alpines into stock position with simple adaptor rings (I found a decent file on the thingiverse), dope the door panels with Dynamat or similar. While I'm in there, I'll scan the area so that I can suss out a model of those door pods and then build some out of scrap, install later. Ultimately I'm more likely to replace the Alpines with better speakers of same size in future. Rear speakers: I guess I'll replace them with some co-axial Focal or MB Quart or similar. Mostly because they'll be f#%ked after 22 years. As it's such as hassle to get in there in the touring I'd prefer to do it just the once! Still not sure if they're 6x9 standard, or 6.5". Amplifier: The parts car netted an Alpine MRP-F250 (needs bench test), and some Alpine Alpine Type-S SPS171A 6.5" component two-ways in the front that'll suffice for a start. Alpine MRP-F250 as found in my parts car (photo credit - John Begley). "Free parts" fit my current budget. I'll get 8ga (or 6ga) to a 3-way distro block behind the back seat, feed the alpine from it, and provides for another amp or two in future. I am assuming Class D efficiency in future so unlikely I'll need anything beefier. I'll run three stereo RCA interconnects from HU to amp position, one long enough to snake around to left side storage bin in case that's needed. I'll be sourcing parts from Aliexpress to keep budget low. I will be sure to find full copper cable with silicone jacket, rather than tinned aluminium etc. I think it's an okay compromise, I'm looking for "better" and "good enough" without going nuts on cables etc. - Head Unit: I'm going to replace the HU with a Kenwood KMM-BT408, as soon as I have the multi-function wheel in and functioning. It's the more up-to-date version of what I have in Grey Thunder. It'll sacrifice that beautiful design for some practicality - I play WAV files from USB stick and (rarely) bluetooth audio from iPhone; my Wife will most likely play Spotify from her iPhone; we both use radio. The phone integration will be great for hands-free calling. We simply run nav via Waze or Google for navigation, with our phones on a mag cradle in one of the vents - no need for a double-din unit, added cost and complexity - though the rear camera wouldve been good. You can't have it all. - Other: Multi-function Wheel integration unit. I know nothing about these. - Other: what if I want to amp-up the rear load area speakers later - if I went active in front with the first amp? Questions: 1. Front Speakers Cabling: So do I run the front pair active off of the Alpine Amp, and power the rear speakers from the HU? Or keep it simple and wire in the Alpines with their crossover, and keep the install pretty vanilla with each amp channel running one corner? I guess I'll be running speaker cables whatever I do. I'll need to check, I think with the base audio in my Japanese market touring I don't have looms to cut into at the back. 2. HU Integration: which is the best looking/fitting e46 dash trim unit? 3. HU/Multi-function integration unit: Whose is best value for money to get Kenwood HU talking to BMW volume, call answer etc? 4. Cabling: I figure I'll go Aliexpress. Three pairs of interconnects, install em once. Speaker Cabling? Am assuming I don't need to go crazy, though for simplicity may need to run my own - I don't think the Japanese market Touring had boot mounted amps unless with HK system, so am not expecting to find factory connectors to marry into. That's it folks. Shouldn't tie me in knots.
  4. Glacial Pace
    This will be my first bottom end refresh, but I have done multiple other jobs on various engines, and am confident that I can carry out the repair. Honestly some of the videos I have seen on yt of professionals doing this job have made me cringe, idk, maybe it's fine but I watched one a few days ago and the mechanic was removing the old roof bolts with an impact wrench, seems a bit rough to me. I also have a friend who can lend me a high end torque wrench for the rod bolts. My torque wrenches are fine for most stuff, but I want that to be dead on.
  5. Olaf
    @Cammsport did you find one yet?
  6. Olaf
    Yes, oil analysis will tell you much about the state of the bearings. But hey you're committed, you've bought the parts. My knowlege of these engines - all the BMW M engines - is that whatever oil you run, it needs to have the right 'stuff' in it, not just be the right grade. Eg - you may find subtle yet important differences between retail Edge 10W60 and what BMW spec. Some people say this sh*t is irrelevant... Your mileage may vary. One supposes you've done a bottom end refresh on other vehicles, previously?
  7. Olaf
    Going to update the audio thread here
  8. Karter16
    Time for an update on the CAD projects. CAD Project 1: SMG Expansion Tank bracket I now have a reproduction of the OE bracket that the tank slots into. This is a simplified bracket that doesn't have mounting holes, or the stand off that the original does. That's because I will be mating this to the other part of the bracket that I'm working on. Anyway I'm happy to have this part done. I won't be able to mate the two parts of the bracket together and finalise the part until I actually have the intake in hand so I can ensure everything fits perfectly. So this project will go on ice until then. CAD Project 2: Adapter for Bosch *101 MAP sensor And excitingly the adapter for the Bosch 101 MAP sensor is now done! I have a final print in CF-PETG which I will now clean up and bond to the sensor. Key differences from the last prototype I showed are: - Return to 1.5mm stand-off. in the CF-PETG 1.5mm is more than strong enough and this allows a bit more of the nose of the sensor to fit into the rail. - Ever so slightly widened body for better fitment. - Slight changes to some of the fillets to match the sensor. And here's some photos of it bolted to the rail (note that it is not bonded to the sensor in these photos). The bolt hardware is temporary just for demonstrating fitment. I'll be using Loctite 401 to bond the bracket to the sensor. The sensor itself is PBT which can be a bit tricky to bond, however my research suggests that Loctite 401 should be suitable to bond PBT and PETG together (and be heat resistant enough for the application). I'll post the end result when I have it all sorted.
  9. Neal
    At least it’s not e46 coupe rubber door seal prices. But that one’s a WTF !
  10. Cement

    Quick rant thread.

    Cement replied to Apex's topic in Off-Topic

    Interesting ... here is some reading about opting out, and the link to do it: https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/how-the-motor-vehicle-register-affects-you/who-can-access-register-information/ https://transact.nzta.govt.nz/transactions/PersonalInfoAccess/entry
  11. Glacial Pace
    I need a few things for my soon to arrive M3, I'm going to do the rod bearings and have ordered bearings and bolts already, but I thought it might be better to get the bulky, cheaper stuff, engine mounts, gaskets, o rings, locally. Where would you go for this sort of stuff? It's also missing the front towing eye cover, hopefully this is something I can pick up used, who is good for this sort of thing? The colour is Space Grey Metallic so not exactly uncommon. Also does anyone know if this is M bumper specific or will any E9x one do the trick.
  12. Glacial Pace
    Will oil analysis show much? I was under the impression that the newer bearings couldn't be picked up on it anyway. The owner did a bunch of their own maintenance, so I think they were saying that all the oil changes they had done were Castrol edge (is that the super car one or do they make 10w60 edge and supercar?) New rod bearings have been purchased, I went with Mahle ones. BE are out of stock until October and I want to get the job done, Mahle seemed like a good option, I also went for OEM bolts, the torque sequence seems tedious but not hard, and they were $400 less than ARP. So that's $400 that can be put towards a suspension refresh. Now I need to buy tools. Dunno how many times in going to need to use and engine support bar but I guess I need to buy one for this job.
  13. Olaf

    Quick rant thread.

    Olaf replied to Apex's topic in Off-Topic

    the MOST disturbing aspect of that article is it did not describe the offender as a "former employee of NZTA". For such such serious misconduct she should have been sacked. Immediately. Why was the Privacy Commissioner not asked for comment in the story - lazy pisstake journalists. The employee can never be trusted again to access such information again. A massive breach of trust for the pubic in a government organisation, NZTA again a bloody failure. Jesus, it's PII - Personally Identifiable Information - which usually classifies as at least CONFIDENTIAL. For access to data of this classification, there's usually risk assessment carried out (Privacy Impact Assessment) on the data and and Security Risk Assessment of systems used to store it; and of the people who have access to the data - a security clearance, which is updated periodically. It is up to the holder to report any change in circumstances to their privacy and security officer, such as "I'm now dating a Gang Member" or "I engage in dogging" or "I like to make a quick buck by selling data". /rant For those interested, plenty to learn on the subject here: https://www.protectivesecurity.govt.nz/classification
  14. Yesterday
  15. Olaf
    Looks like good buying, well done. I agree with above, oil analysis. Seller statement all Castrol Edge 10W60 incorrect, Werkstadt segments have indicated Fuchs F1 used on at least one, FWIW. Careful maintenance should see fun running. LCI updated rod bearing specs IIRC? A steal overall. You've bought at a price that covers plenty of remedial maintenance to bring it up to brilliant and a great driver.
  16. Driftit

    Quick rant thread.

    Driftit replied to Apex's topic in Off-Topic

    https://www.rnz.co.nz/news/national/523154/nzta-employee-traded-motorists-private-information-to-gang-members-for-meth So I've opted my vehicles out of public data. How can I opt out of NZTA staff being able to access it? Ffs.
  17. Karter16

    Quick rant thread.

    Karter16 replied to Apex's topic in Off-Topic

    Sourcing parts in general to NZ is a lot of effort. I would estimate that when I'm buying parts I spend about 4 times longer working out the cheapest combination of parts + shipping + GST + import duties than I do actually researching what parts I need to buy. It results in some seemingly non-sensical combinations. E.g. when ordering parts for CSL intake recently it was cheaper to order the CSL dipstick tube by itself from Turner, than it was to include in the rest of my package coming from Schmiedmann.
  18. topnotchrally
    Safe to assume it is automatic?
  19. Glacial Pace
    They also put 225k km on the car so I think they got their money's worth haha.
  20. Cement

    Quick rant thread.

    Cement replied to Apex's topic in Off-Topic

    Ebay !! Just all of it ... it's a complete dumpster fire in the modern age. Feels like I'm stuck in the age of Nutscrape Navigator !!!
  21. balancerider
    Seller nearly paid for all those services 😉
  22. Eagle
    Stupid video. Spouts a load of crap with no caveats and puts them all in the comments instead.
  23. Glacial Pace
    Yes, zcp is the option code for the competition pack. Which as far as I can tell is different wheels, 10mm lower, some different software for the gear box and the traction control maybe, possibly some other minor stuff. No engine change like the m2 comp.
  24. Driftit
    NZ New. Option sparse. But you don't see many in good condition for sale these days.
  25. Neal
    Very cool car , congratulations. Rumours are the 2010s LCIs have slightly better performance. I guess ZCP is like the competition model in the next gen M3s ( USA name for them )
  26. Glacial Pace
    Only 4 zcp sedans? That seems wild to me. I guess NZ is a small market and sedans were less popular. I was pretty ambivalent on sedan vs coup tbh, just happy to get an M3.
  27. Driftit
    0211887733
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