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uchigatana

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About uchigatana

  • Rank
    1st Gear
  • Birthday 09/02/1989

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Vince
  • Location
    Auckland
  • Car
    E36 325i
  • Mods List
    K&N Stock Filter, Exhaust(Manifold Back), Manual, m50b20-m50b25 conversion, M-Sport Bodykit, F-R strut bars....

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    wakazashi203@hotmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    My car, My partner, Computer's(My job...), Martial Art's and food lol......why I gota list my interests lol?
  1. Anyone have any tricks/tips to keep the trim attached to the car lol... I have had all my wheel caps stolen like 2x now But losing a peice of the body kit is just beyond annoying.... Anyone know where I could track down a replacement?
  2. Totally worth getting it manual thanks again HellBM! +1.
  3. If I knew how to build you a better stronger windscreen .....I would tell you. And On that note you can get stronger windscreens.... If you want Ill research where to get it...its also lighter aswell(Performance is a added plus), it will probably cost a fair bit but if you want I can get you in touch with the right people....... And guess what BMW DOESNT MAKE THEM..surprise surprise.... I guess if you wanted to get rid of your old POS windscreen quickly you could do that(Not a recommended with the hammer thou, there are better ways to remove it)....What is wrong with people in this forum? Hit with the stupid stick at birth? *No offense to those who appreciate trying to make there bmw as good as it can get* But why sink to that level. Your just bringing us all down with you.
  4. Well in your world BMW's are perfect and never have problem's aye? these cars were designed 20 years ago... this is 2010 and typicaly after 20 years you can see the problem's that occur with time and consequence, I mean this is what this topic is for?...geez...Anyway I made it clear that "You do not have to do this" and it is "Subject to personal preferance or your perception of "Correct"". Even Glen has already said the plastic gets brittle and break's, Im just trying to offer an affordable fix for those of a much much lesser budget or am I being persecuted for it? geez..... Actualy I should just STFU and stop trying help pricewise. That way people will keep getting the idea that bmw's are exspensive and un-affordable for the lower income. Sorry for wasting my own time and the obviously very rich people in the bmw repair forum will then be happy.
  5. Why would you want to risk a re-occurance? But you are correct a professional will always recommend just replace it. They make more money that way..... It doesnt actualy fix the problem, But each to his own
  6. Why bother having to pay $100 or leaving a vanurability in my car = weakness is not tolerated lol.
  7. I just ran into this problem yesterday with my 325i and it has completely destroyed my engine fan ripping all the blades off the fan without warning. So I am stuck in Cambridge until Monday.....because of this unseen problem. Allright, The Plastic shield above the engine fan in your 6 cylinder e36 is a weakness and as far am I can see so is the e36 plastic engine fan in the M50's(I do not know if you can purchase a metal engine fan for these motor's) The plastic shield attached above the engine fan beside the radiator tank is crap plastic......It will crack then melt or breakaway and fall into your engine fan while running and completely destroy your engine fan causing balance problems and ripping blades off and it may take the radiator hose with it. Causing overheating which is never a good thing with the M50 engines. I urge you to cut the plastic shield off and dispose off this to completely avoid this problem and a silly $200 fix.
  8. Well "I FOUND THE SOLUTION!" m50b20 with vanos -> m50b25 with vanos and pre 1995 without EWSII or OBD2 This solution will apply to any 6 cylinder -> 6 cylinder convert with the same model type eg .(M50) It was a very "Not so recommended solution" but it works. (And thats the most important thing.) I had the workshop switch the OBD1 non EWS engine wireing harness out and had them switch it over with the original 320i engine wireing harness lol. Of course this ment that all the sensor's from the 320i needed to be switched aswell and the 320i MAF sensor needed alittle "Modification" to match the relativly larger intake system that come with the new engine. AND IT WORKS LOL!. Perfectly fine. This was a cheaper solution in the short term.........And I desperatly needed my car back. But now when I get the time, I need a ECU re-map to suit the m50b25 instead of the m50b20 which I hope isnt to hard. And the fact I retained the 320i Exhaust system is not working in my favor which I found did not follow the lines of "Smaller exhaust = lower end power and less top speed" in actuality the 320i exhaust has given my car a dangerous take off!. I mean ...... I floooooor the accellorator and my car lagg's.....LOL...a N/A car that lag's lol. Anyway the car just wont move for 2-3 seconds then suddenly throws you back into your seat violently as it takes off. totaly weird. I also get a weird "POP!" noise just before the lag dissapear's, which sounds like it originate's under the pedal....But I guess that is actualy the in-appropriate exhaust system. So I hope this thread helps someone
  9. So I cannot just rip out the left over obd2 systems and replace them? that would seem like a cheaper fix. So I need to find a 325i ewsII car thats being dismantled....This is not going to be easy, Converting the rest of the system to obdI does not seem as hard. If there anything else you find out, that would be helpful thanks.
  10. Cant wait to give cutting more wire's a try.......(Dread's the thought)...But if this works I luv ya.
  11. A non EWS DME will not work in an EWSII car. (I hope this is not the case...) Did the old engine have Vanos ? Yes same as the new one. Does the car have ASC ? No and the car it came out from did not aswell. Is the car auto or manual ? Auto same as car it came out from. BMW 320I 1995 (in Black) VIN: WBACB22020 FH03449 is what the origonal car was. Didnt get the car VIN it came from unfortunatly just year 1993, e36, and engine model m50b25 from a 325i. I can tell you only the engine/sensor's/dme/engine wireing harness have been changed, everything else is from the 320i. If you need any more info, I cant give it to you as the car is stuck in the garage untill the place re-open's. Off the top of your head what is different with the non ews car>? And would it be hard to switch the last of the wireing to non ews? if so I already am able to get anything needed, I just would no longer have a clue what is needed.
  12. Well the engine was tired I guess(had done 165000 km's) and wasnt making any funny noise's or sounding bad at all untill I switched to the 0w-40 sh*t from castrol(And thats when all hell broke lose in my engine instantly... knocking noises started instantly, vanos rattle began instantly..sounded like a friggun diesil...took it to a mechanic and they wanted to replace anything that looked worn even slightly...they quoted me $1000 to fix the peice of shite...I just decided ENGINE SWAP! and tossed that engine) Like I said...0w-40 is not for engines other than brand spanking new... else it will kill your engine... piss you off and waste your money. Yes, overall I cannot really blame the oil....I can only blame the run down engine....But the engine had alot more life left in it if I didnt switch to that sh*t due to that "Recommendation crap". But I believe BMW and Castrol only really support that oil from the new point of view, not the "this will improve your engine no-matter what point of view". So be aware if you've done 60000k's+ I wouldnt switch to the lower viscosity oil, I'd probably go to a thicker oil in step's of 5 every 50000kms to keep up with the wear of the engine. Hope this helps=D
  13. Alrighty... So this is the problem. I have a 1995 EWSII e36 320i(M50b20 engine) and just engine swaped to a 93 m50b25(From a 325i) non EWS engine. Now the engine's been swaped and everything set perfectly, But... the mechanic fried the dme as he did not ground a wire(Which I dont think I should have had to pay for the replacement...But I have)...But this is not the real problem(As I dont know if the DME is honestly screwed or if they just dont know for sure). The problem is, there is power to everything yet there is no spark....and the engine floods...and it cranks aswell if you turn the key but does not start. The mechanic got it running the first time he turned it on...But then after he turned it back off, it no longer started. Just floods and no spark every time. Now...I cannot blame anything on the engine like sensor's and pump and blah blah because I had it all replaced with new part's(And we know for a fact the engine works......). Mechanic think's it's a problem with the EWSII conflicting with the non EWS DME(Ecu)(which hasnt been replaced yet so they havent been able to rule out a fault with the DME but that will be ruled out once I put this replacement DME in, even thou the current DME is possibly working) The orginal wireing harness from the m50b25 is being used in conjunction with the old opposing side of the firewall wireing(aka dash cluster/OBD...all the same stuff from when the 320i was in there. ) Sooooooo....Thats my problem, And we are clueless elsewise....If someone has done a EWSII to Non EWS swap before that would be a tremendous help =) as a lead for information on this swap. Unless somone can tell from the information provided the problem or where I have gone wrong and what I would need to have replaced to finish this as I have been without a car for a month and it's looking like weeks more without my baby(I love my bmw far to much). So any information would be a help.... I have the VIN number if that helps and have DME serial and lable color if that will help any. Hope this is enough info=D
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