warrenp

The OEM rims are 24.1kg with tyres so about 5kg heavier per wheel - 13kg vs 8kg approx.   If these alloys are safe and actually JWL and VIA certified then my new setup will be safe yet have 20kg less unsprung weight.

I see I need spacers.  Without spacers the rims are about 1.5mm from rubbing on the front shocks.  OEMS are about 12mm away.  So 10mm spacers are my thoughts.  https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator# suggests 8 inch ET20 to 9 inch ET20 would be 13mm difference so the 10mm I measured sounds about right.

Does anyone here have a set of 10mm spacers and longer lug nuts for e61?  Or tips where to buy these?

Cheers

On 4/30/2022 at 7:57 PM, qube said:

How heavy is it?

Total weight with tyre is 18.85kg, and since the Pirelli P Zero Nero GT 245/40R18 is supposedly 11.36kg (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pirelli-P-Zero-Nero-GT-245-40R18-ZR-97Y-XL-High-Performance-Tire/43082190) this would make the wheel 7.49kg.  But the tyre has lost a couple mm of tread and it could also be a previous model which weighed less so maybe the alloy is 8.5kg or something.   Somewhere round this weight.

Other numbers on the wheel are 660kg  09507-0013-213.  The BMW badge in the middle appears to be OEM, made in Italy.  No brand marking anywhere.

I'm interested to see what the OEM rims weight in comparison.  Will update and post some pics when I've got them on the car later today.

Also etched into the rim as seen in this photo:  18X9JJ  5H/120  ET20

By the valve is the JWL mark and the VIA mark that are Japanese standards.  Of course these could be also faked...  Here is a close up pic of these marks.

Hi folks,

I'm looking at these used rims for my 550i.   If they are actually forged (as stamped on the rim) then I think they'll be worth getting.   Anyone here able to recognise from a pic if the wheel looks forged or cast?   It appears to have a chrome coating which on this wheel is flaking off.   I'm not worried about that.   Just after some good strong and light wheels as a second set for my car.

Are there any questions one could ask the seller to help ascertain if they are forged or cast?

Cheers!

Okay guys.  Feedback taken.  I've ordered all four struts from Schmiedmann.com and the car will come with a tailgate and glass door that will for many years not land on your head.

Also will have a new 6 month warranted 850cca battery.  I can't think of anything else the car is missing or wanting now.  Also will put a new radio antenna on the roof as apparently the existing one was had it (I never listen to radio so never knew).

All this for 4,500.  Fair price?

Hi folks,

I'm selling my e39 530i Touring with 163K on the clock.    Mechanically in good order.  I can honestly say the body is in above average condition compared to every other e39 I've seen.  Motor and transmission are smooth and silky.  Had regular oil and filter changes ahead of recommended schedule.  Video of running engine and a short drive:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_tcXiPwBQI https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2188542959

Reserve at $4,500.

I've labeled the wires that go into the amp from the mute box, they are the same colour as the ones that attach to the cut off wires that originally go into the amp.   I should add, they didn't piggyback, they cut the wires and directed them to the mute box and then back out to the amp.

They are in pairs:

The unit's white and white/black stripe wires go to: yellow/red stripe and yellow/brown stripe

The unit's green and green/black stripe go to: yellow/purple stripe and yellow/gray stripe

The unit's purple and purple/black stripe go to: blue/purple stripe and blue/tan stripe

The unit's grey and grey/black stripe go to: turquoise/red stripe and turquoise/brown stripe

I've sellotaped the colour codes to the wires as well (the ones that go back into the amp).

Then the red fused wire to the unit (the mute box) piggybacks to the thick red/green wire going into the amp (same group plug as the other wires)

The black wire (with the metal crimp connection) going into the unit (mute box) piggybacks onto the thick brown wire going into the amp (in the same group plug again)

If you can't figure out where to connect the blue fused wire let me know and I will get in under the CD stacker and see what it connects to.

All the best for wiring it up!

I am labeling with sellotape each wire in the bunch of 8 in and 8 out with the dual colour code of each wire it piggybacks onto.  If your amp has the same coloured wires as mine this should make it fairly easy to install.

Hi Brent

I'll just post some pics of the wiring here so you can give me the all clear to cut the unit's wires that are piggybacking onto my my 'amp in' wires before I send it to you.  Which wires connect to which looks very complicated to me but maybe you know more about this than I do!  The unit seems to be getting power by the blue and red (red being connected to the amp) fused wires, with the blue one coming up from behind the CD stacker (I can trace that one back to see where it is coming from if you would like).  The unit sends its audio signal into the amp via jumping onto those other wires going into the amp.  If I can, I will cut the wires so you can see which colour wires they are piggybacking onto, but I also need enough wire to reconnect my original wires back into my amp.

If this looks too much of a nightmare, no worries if you'd rather not buy it!   Otherwise I will pm you my bank details for $60 including post.

Up to you!

I just pulled a Parrot CK3000 kit from my 2003 530i touring that I just purchased.  I can show you exactly which wires to connect it to if you have the same car.  Includes all the parts.  Main box, microphone, wiring, connector to where it wires up on the amp, little button piece that clips onto your dash.  I cut the wires in the middles to save pulling the car to bits to get them out so they would need to be soldered at the point I cut them.  $50 plus post sound fair?  Or make me an offer.  Going on trademe new from $175 to $249.

Thanks Jared.  I did it with an old handsaw.  It had a hole in about the right place at the end so I anglegrinded an indent to about the same shape as the OEM tool.  Worked like a charm.  If anyone in Wairarapa region needs it let me know.

I was thinking of making the tool with a piece of metal and an anglegrinder and drill etc..  Is this how you would do it?  The hammer approach didn't work.   I think this nut has perhaps never been removed.

Which means I turn it clockwise (top of spanner moving to the right) when facing the engine correct?  Just to be sure!

Thanks Gabe, I made the tool out of an old handsaw.  It had a hole in about the right place at the end so I anglegrinded an indent to about the same shape as the OEM tool.  Worked like a charm.  If anyone in Wairarapa region needs it let me know.

Anyone able to lend/sell the water pump (pulley pump?) holder tool for m54 and other engines?  I could collect anywhere between Hutt valley and Masterton.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Iron-32mm-Fan-Clutch-Nut-Wrench-Water-Pump-Holder-Removal-Tool-Kit-For-BMW/332381663617?hash=item4d637db181:g:upIAAOSw6AlZvLq4

I'm trying to get the fan clutch bolt loose and need to hold the water pump in place and I'm failing with using screwdrivers jammed between the bolts etc.  Anyone in Wairarapa or Upper Hutt have this tool I could borrow?

Cheap on ebay but will take weeks to get here.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Iron-32mm-Fan-Clutch-Nut-Wrench-Water-Pump-Holder-Removal-Tool-Kit-For-BMW/332381663617?hash=item4d637db181:g:upIAAOSw6AlZvLq4

Thanks for the tips.  I think I will go with X8R.  Beisan is out of my price range.  Murray, I see they sell a kit without the gaskets and just a tube of instant gasket sealer, so presumably some people re-use the original gaskets along with the gasket sealer?  Would you strongly advise against this?  $165 for the kit with gaskets you linked to down to $85 without.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-DOUBLE-TWIN-DUAL-VANOS-REBUILD-RATTLE-SEALS-SET-KIT-FIX-3-5-7-Z3-Z4-X3-X5/162547855430?hash=item25d89b7046:g:yXEAAOSwa-dWiz7D&vxp=mtr

Any reason for Beisan Jared?  Their seals are $60 US, the two rattle rings another $60 US which is over $200 NZ including shipping without even new nuts and washers.  Teflon (PTFE) isn't expensive to manufacture and the rings are just hardened steel.  I find it hard to justify this price without some strong evidence they sell a far superior product.

http://www.beisansystems.com/products

Thanks Nathan

I don't know if you're allowed to say on here, but which seller of the kits do you go with?  Hong Kong free shipping deals from $30 for the 10 PTFE seals, 9 x nuts and washers and 2 x rattle rings.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Double-Dual-Seal-Rattle-Ring-Repair-Kit-For-BMW-Vanos-M52TU-M54-M56-11361440142/362100419807?epid=2236983454&hash=item544eddecdf:g:VJIAAOSwdDtZt3we&vxp=mtr

vs $85 from XR8 who say they are high quality but essentially the same things right?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-DOUBLE-TWIN-DUAL-VANOS-REBUILD-RATTLE-SEALS-SET-KIT-FIX-3-5-7-Z3-Z4-X3-X5/162547855430?hash=item25d89b7046:g:yXEAAOSwa-dWiz7D&vxp=mtr

I've looked at the DIY for the vanos seal upgrade.  I'm up for it, but looks like it will take me a day and a half so I'd rather only do it if I could first know that the engine needs it.

I've just bought the car. 2003 530i touring, WBADS62040GL81691.  Has 147,000 km, and (apart from the thermostat obviously needing replacing as the gauge went down to quarter mark on downhill runs) it drove like a charm from Auckland to Wellington and did about 11.5km/L for the trip (I drove with the slipper down a few times too).  The idle is smooth and consistent, what looks like 650 or 700 rpm according to the tacho.  Seems to have good pull right through the rev range.  I've never driven another so have nothing to compare it with but it feels like 170kw to me. Even with 250kg of family and dog in the car it still overtakes effortlessly.   I can't hear any obvious loud rattling sounds coming from the vanos area.

Would you guys do this upgrade anyway?  Any more precise ways to find out if it needs it?  Previous owner didn't do it, but who knows if the one before him did it.  Car was imported in 2010 from Japan with 80,000km.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

SOLD.  Second 318ti still available.  $1,700 ono 235,000km  WOF and reg

I bit the bullet and put this one on trademe too.  Prefer to sell to someone here of course!

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1514664014.htm

"Reluctant sale of a great little car. Now have 3 kids so time to move up to a station wagon.

Car is in good condition, no rust, just a small dent in left fender and door (supermarket trolley?) barely visible in photo. Very economical and I get about 11.5Km/l in and around town. Have full service history for most of the car's life with manual and BMW booklet. Also still have all the tools.

Engine starts every time and runs well. Has never overheated or had any major issue. The M44 engine has a timing chain not belt.

16 inch alloys in great condition with a good amount of tread on the tyres.

No issues and the car is a joy to drive.

Features:
- 5 speed manual
- factory alarm system
- electric windows and mirrors
- radio with CD and MP3 function (via CD)
- 16 inch alloys
- EFI
- Automatic stability control (ASC+T)
- Second key

Rear parcel tray has been stored in my garage since I've had the car but will go with the car.

Available for viewing in Featherston Wairarapa

- A minor point is that I removed the stock catalytic converter and resonator (replaced with straight pipe) because I wanted to hear the engine a little more as I found it too quiet and I prefer to hear what the engine is doing while I'm driving - rear muffler is still in place and working. It's not super loud and at 100kph the wind and tyre noise is still louder than the engine, but I will also include the stock cat and resonator with the car so you can have them welded back on if you so wish"

Car will have new WOF and rego til end of February.

Via www.bmwvin.com   

HI folks, time to move on from my two much loved hatches due to 3 kids and dog and bikes etc, so getting a 530i wagon.  Here is the first of two.

1998 (WBACG72050AR74269).  235,000km.

Not so good points.  Rough exterior and interior.  Headliner fabric sagging down (I spray adhesived it back up to keep it off my head but not a quality job!).  Seats need a good cleaning.  It looks its age hence the price.   Left front wheel has a vibration that is sporadically felt through the steering wheel at speed - guessing this might be a control arm bushing needing replacing.

Has done 235K (I had it since 130K, changed oil and filter at every computer service interval, gave it Q8 Formula Excel 5W-40 fully synthetic at every change up until the last one).

Removable rear tray included but isn't currently in the car.

Best offer round $1800 and it's yours!   If it sells this or next week I'll throw in two spare 205 55 r16 tyres, the Dunlop has almost new tread depth.  Can call me on 06 308 8868.   Ad for second manual 318ti (172,000km and better condition for $3,500) later today.

Info from www.bmwvin.com.

I'm reluctantly selling my second 318ti manual.  The one that strangely has a much gutsier motor at 233K vs the other at 150K...

I wonder if the engine has some M tuning? $1500 as is, or $2K if I put a new WOF on it. For WOF I am guessing it will need some rear bushes replaced and control arm work on the front. 

See pics here https://www.facebook.com/groups/1391014047786044/permalink/1803114839909294/?sale_post_id=1803114839909294&ref=br_rs