owe
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Hah! I was flexible with price but yes, fast sale. Sad to see the car go though
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Selling my trusty 320i as I'm moving overseas. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-207505512.htm It would help if I could spell correctly in the topic! Is there any way to edit this?
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Lots of tutorials out there. Mine was actually super easy to access. Here is one link: http://www.unitedbimmer.com/kb-e36-icvcleaning.php
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I'm no expert but I had the same problem recently - putting the car into reverse would stall it 60% of the time and also just waiting at the lights the lights would cause the idle to fluctuate resulting in a stall (embarrassing!). I fixed the problem by taking out the ICV and giving it a really good clean, as well as cleaning out the hoses and connections to it. My stalling problem is gone and the car runs great now...
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Posted in the wrong forum before Anyone have a spare hose which connects to the middle of what (according to the Haynes manual) is the thermostat housing? It is one of the larger hoses - not the one which connects to the top of the radiator, not the one which connects to the bottom of the radiator, but the other one. Feel free to make as many large hose jokes as you like PM me with a price and availability.
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Anyone have a spare hose which connects to the middle of what (according to the Haynes manual) is the thermostat housing? It is one of the larger hoses - not the one which connects to the top of the radiator, not the one which connects to the bottom of the radiator, but the other one. Feel free to make as many large hose jokes as you like PM me with a price and availability.
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Thanks for the replies. Not fixed yet - waiting on the oil pressure switch to arrive before they can start it up again. Fingers crossed though!
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So I've never had any issue with my car and oil (1988 320i manual) since I've owned it. It gets regularly serviced and never seems to burn any oil. Anyway, I got the WOF without problems on Friday, was driving it around on Sunday and noticed the oil light come on. Pulled over at the next service station and checked the oil - it was extremely low. Thought this was a little odd but it was getting dark so I filled it up and drove the rest of the way home. Left it over night, checked in the morning and underneath it looked like an oil bomb had been let off. I took it in to the local garage to get checked (I initially thought it might have been the oil pressure switch after reading these forums) and they said it looked like it was going to be a bit of a job to find the leak and fix it. To diagnose the problem they had to spend a while removing parts of the engine (radiator, cam belt) so I just went ahead with them and told them to fix it once they found what the problem was since they had it in pieces anyway. It was apparently 3 seals which had been slowly leaking but one finally blew. After replacing all of the seals they started it up today and within minutes the oil pressure switch then blew...exciting! They've apparently: - replaced all seals (5 of them?) including rocker cover gasket - changed the cam belt, tensioner belt, some other belt in that area, and also a tensioner pulley (figured I may as well get it done at the same time since they had to remove them all to get at the oil leak) - replaced oil pressure switch - new antifreeze - oil change - leak stopper Total bill came in at around $700 for parts and labor. My question is this a relatively good price for the labor and parts? I'm heading overseas at some point and will probably have to part with the old girl so if anyone is interested she's had a good bit of service done recently
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I'm in the central Auckland area - what do new parts usually go for?
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Hi, On the advice of my mechanic friend I've been told to maybe look at changing my wires and distributor as mine might not be working as efficiently as they used to. I have an '88 BMW model 320i. Looking to buy second hand parts if possible or brand new if the price is right... Cheers
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Would that work on my e30 '88 320i? Thanks