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Boost Junky

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Posts posted by Boost Junky


  1. So there is a difference between m50 vanos and m52 single vanos trigger wheels?

    Could've sworn the ones i've got are the same

    Good to hear it is working and they were simple problems

    Yea man from my understanding there is a difference between m50 & m50tu trigger wheels then the M52 ones are different again which is for sure because I had the M50tu and m52 trigger wheels side by side yesterday, however we mixed them up somehow and do not know which one is on the motor now lol. But its running which is the main thing, I will determine on the weekend which one we are actually using and let you know.

    Yea such a good feeling!


  2. She's alive!!!!

    Thanks to another Luke blonde moment, seem to have one of these per project I work on. My M50 Turbo I forgot to put the engine earths on, this time I managed to hook the fuel supply/return hoses around the wrong way.. DUH. No wonder the injectors were dry.

    We also mixed up the trigger wheels today so put the one on we think is from the M50TU, didn't work put the other one on and she fired up straight away! So really not sure which trigger wheel is on the vehicle now?

    On another note, battery voltage while the motor is running = 11.54V and 11.55V at the alternator, not sure what the issue is here. I know that the main alternator +ve lead goes to the starter motor +ve and from there to the battery +ve. Brushes shot?

    Another interesting issue we have ran into is the gearbox not holding 2nd or 4th gear, we found that the gbox/shifter sits slightly too far back and it touches on the rear of the hole in the tunnel where the shifter comes up into the cabin. I have a suspicious feeling this is due to the 'front on' where some young clowns were drunk and pulled out in front of Jamie one night. Maybe the chasis has buckled/shortened a few mm?

    what gearbox and shifter parts are you using.

    maybe they are the 4cyl ones (longer)

    We are not sure Brent but shall find out thanks.

    Mine was just touching the manifold using the same booster (E32), but I slotted the firewall holes diagonally to move it down and across to gain some clearance room. So it could be a combination of that and the mounts you are using. I used E34 mounts iirc (M20 ones)

    Cool thanks Troy, did you have to use adapter plates when you sloted the holes in the firewall?

    the agreed mounts to use by most conversion guys is E36 M5x arms and E28 M30/S38 rubber mounts.

    PM user E30ftw and find out what linkage he used, he had a Getrag 220 box on the back of his M50 E30. user Sasha now has thins car, he may also know.

    We have definitely got the E36 M5x arms and pretty sure they are E28 rubber mounts Andy, thanks we shall give them a PM.

    Thanks for all the help


  3. We are running OBD1 gear inc trigger wheel, only have the original M52 coil packs + injectors.

    Since when can you not cert copper bundy tube? I've never had issues certing this stuff however its been a good 4 years since my last cert. My previous employer (Partmaster) sells it as does the brake shop across the road, perhaps its only good for cars that are already complied for NZ roads.

    We have used a E32 735i brake booster which is meant to be the smallest OD booster that bolts up, i'm sorry to say but it still interferes with the intake manifold as did the mkII golf brake booster on my M50 turbo conversion. I rectified this problem by rasing the intake side mount with washers, I just dont understand how no one else has ran into this issue? Either im using the wrong mounts or going crazy...

    I have had to cut and weld the the rear exhaust manifold then bend it inwards towards the block to get sufficient clearance of the steering arm, still developing my welding skills so made a slight mess of the manifold (doesnt help when someone gives you carbon steel tig rods instead of stainless rods <_<

    Very close to starting this beast up (hopefully tonight). Attempted this on the weekend but it would not ignite, general theory is that we have the wrong trigger wheel for the crank angle sensor or a fried ECU, here's hopeing not the later.

    Another interesting issue we have ran into is the gearbox not holding 2nd or 4th gear, we found that the gbox/shifter sits slightly too far back and it touches on the rear of the hole in the tunnel where the shifter comes up into the cabin. I have a suspicious feeling this is due to the 'front on' where some young clowns were drunk and pulled out in front of Jamie one night. Maybe the chasis has buckled/shortened a few mm?

    Watch this space!


  4. Nah Luke, the m50 and m52 have the trigger points in different places.

    Oh sweet as thanks David, I so hope thats the issue be nice to start her up tonight!

    are you refering to m52tu (twin vanos) engines which are different to m52 single vanos

    my mate fitted a m52b28 engine from a 96 328i into his e34 525ix touring ,

    everthing was swapped across from the old m50b25 engine onto the m52b28 engine

    all works pefectly fine.

    just used all the m50 electrics etc

    Nah its just the single vanos motor Brent I think from a similar donor that your speaking of, might have been a 98 328i though. Yea we have all the m50 electronics minus the coils and injectors which are still m52.


  5. So the M50 Vanos and M52 Vanos trigger wheels are the same then?? I hope not as I have already ordered an M50 Vanos one haha..

    Sweet I wont worry about the knock sensors then and will check the fuel pump once over again. I had a descent look on Sunday and yea it was just the 6x 13mm bolts to remove the trigger wheel, piece of piss.

    Thanks for all your help guys!


  6. Try the ECU in another car, best way to check it.

    While cranking the engine the fuel pump is running correct? If so, the DME is getting some sort of crank signal - it only runs the pump while it is receiving one.

    Pull a plug and check for spark - its the easiest way to confirm it.

    Also, does anyone have a m50 trigger wheel to compare to a m52 trigger wheel? The missing teeth may be in a different location.

    Troy, yep the fuel pump is running. To make sure, we bypassed the Fuel Pump Relay and supplied a constant 12v to the fuel pump while we cranked it over. I better make sure the fuel pump is running (wired up correctly) while turning the motor over, your saying this will confirm whether the DME is getting any kind of crank signal right?

    I shall pull a plug and check that also. We do not have another BMW to try the DME out in, is there anyone local (New Plymouth) on this forum that may be willing to help?

    Thanks Troy


  7. Possibly Luke, are you sure your cam's not 180 degrees out?

    David, the motor hasn't been apart. Just looked at the sensors now and there's no way we can accidentally put the cam shaft sensor in place of the crank shaft sensor and vice verso. I'm beginning to think the ECU is goners.


  8. vanos m50b25 have the same injectors as m52b28 etc ,

    all coils work the same as well.

    make sure you are using the m50 crank and cam sensors

    i would say you might have killed the ecu

    have replacement ecu's if needed.

    Yes they are M50 crank and cam sensors thanks Brent and I have swapped them around with no success.

    Ether fires on compression alone, no spark needed so you may not have that either.

    I assume this doesn't have EWS?

    Oh right I was not aware of that, nah there is no EWS on this system.

    It sounds like you may have a crank sensor failure and the engine dme isn't getting the tdc signal to open the injectors, either sensor or position?

    Had this with the m52b20 running on the M50 loom, also on the m54b30 if I remember rightly as well.

    Oh right, so your saying that the sensor is either incorrect or in the wrong position? The sensors are definitely M50 sensors.

    Thanks everyone.


  9. Hi all, been a long time =)

    Ok so I have been installing a M52B28 into Jamie W's E30 face lift. The other day I made the mistake of shorting a main +ve battery wire on the case of the DME. It sparked and marked the case, how would one go about determining if this caused any electrical damage to the DME?

    We now have the vehicle at the stage of turning it over

    - The fuel pump has power and is turning over and is supplying fuel all the way up to the injectors.

    - The starter motor is cranking

    - ICV is running

    We have sprayed ether through the intake which seems to ignite so we are getting spark of some sort. We pulled the fuel rail off and cranked the motor over and the injectors are bone dry and nothing is spraying out of them. Also we are running the M50 DME and M50 Engine loom, the only thing that is still M52 is the coil packs and Injectors, are they compatible with the M50 DME?

    Can anyone suggest a solution here?

    Cheers, Luke


  10. David - Thanks for that, I shall keep that in mind. Have just ordered an E36 Slave cylinder which comes with a push rod yay. Just need clutch pedal and manual brake pedal now.

    Andrew - Cheers, I am still on here once or twice a year haha. Well technically yes I am but unfortunately this time not for myself. However I should not count myself as being unlucky.. this project won't cost me a thing finacially and im sure Jamie will let me drive the monster ;)


  11. Hey all, long time no post.. I'm after a few bits and pieces:

    - E36 Getrag 250 Clutch Slave Cylinder push rod

    - E30 Manual Pedal Box or just clutch pedal and bolt to add to existing auto pedal box

    - Clutch fluid hard line that runs between Clutch M/cyl and S/cyl hose

    - Rubber Clutch Hose from clutch S/cyl to Clutch hard line

    I know most of you dont like to part full manual conversions so also hit me up with a price on a full manual conversion kit minus the gearbox.

    Thanks in advance


  12. It's ridiculous.. how it squeezes that much power out of the engine and still stays in one piece is beyond me ay! Can it safely maintain 17 pounds?

    Man old thread but anyway.. Combination of the 3.4mm mls headgasket, ARP Studs keep it strong and with a descent tune & ECU she loves 17psi and still does to this day as I have seen with Linden and his driving =) Just the rest of the driveline that cant handle it, Only the motor, gearbox and driveshaft have survived. Hes smashed 6 half shafts, 3 diffs, 2 clutches, 1 flywheel and tore the sub frame in 2 places!

    IIRC the fuel system had reached it's peaked (maybe just the injectors?) .. So it was actually potentially capable of more power if it had higher flowing injectors and fuel pump.. but then again it is a stock internals m50!

    Yea I think the design of the home made turbo manifold prob wont help with spool and the injectors still had a bit left in them but not sure how much more, fuel pump is walbro 550 which is plenty. I know of many a RB making this kind of power on 13psi easy so not as much of an achievement as I had initially thought.. still goes nuts tho hah!

    Peace


  13. I can also vouch for this car! Shes a dream and im after a wagon too. I would be all over this if I had the money your asking Jase! Good luck with the sale and cu this w.e

    ps. may need you to bring me a viscous fan down with you as i have text Kerry but havnt head back from him yet chur :)


  14. Minus the skids? :lol:

    Damn, wish I didnt have 3 different projects going atm then I'd be jumping at this! Looks hot!

    Did you swap this for your Turbo E30 you were building?

    Why cant you have This + a Wagon?

    Nah thats why i sold the weapon to get away from the temptation of skids haha. Yea swapped it for the turbo E30 which i finished. Why? Because money aint that easy to come by my friend haha!

    Keen. PM sent.

    Replied PM

    Probally has 150kms on it by now wont it? its a beautiful car to drive I wish i still had it but with the boost lol..

    Rear 6x9's are kenwood arent they? and i think the fronts are pioneer and it still has the amp kit wired in from when i had a sub in the boot.

    good luck with the sale i hope it goes to someone who will look after it :)

    Yea the clock says about 150kms which is pretty good, not sure on the motor though still going strong I think it needs some attention though maybe vacuum leaks or AFM issue as it runs a bit rough when I first start it in the morning for the first 30-40sec.

    Oh yea they are kenwood my bad lol and yup the amp wiring kit is all still there. Thanks for clarifying Lindin :)

    Buy it back and swap the lot into it

    Yea what he said haha :)

    Oh and guys my pc is currently out of order so may take a while to reply to topic if anyone wants to call me then my nmber is 0276992178

    Cheers guys, Luke

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