c@meron

Yes, although I'm prepared to have it checked elsewhere to be sure. Obviously that would be the next logical step before changing the fluid ect.

No fault codes at all for the gearbox... It shifts nicely as well. The issue only occurs when it's cold and has been sitting for 12h or more. Once the car is running it's fine for the rest of the day.

My partner has an issue with her 316Ti. When the car is cold and has been sitting for 12h+ it takes a long time to go into gear. (30 seconds or so). It has been into a workshop twice but they haven't been able do do anything. The car has 80,000kms and is generally quite tidy. Suggestions from various international forums suggest changing the fluid, filter and applying a software fix which revs the engine higher at startup resolves the issue. Does anyone have any suggestions around this or a suitable workshop to change the fluid and filter?

- Wheel Alignment Has Been Done - Calibrated Steering Sensor Cleaned up a few bits and pieces. Will wash car tomorrow and take some proper photos. Have added photos of the scrapes (which are not too bad). Will go on Trademe Tomorrow. Open to offers...

Looking for expressions of interest before I put the car in storage or list on Trademe. I have owned this car for 5 Years and done roughly 100,000kms. It's time to let this one go as I now have a company car. It is a 2000 so it is eligible for 1 year WOF's. Country of origin is Japan. 180,000kms The body is a bit rough. Stone chips, the rear drivers side quarter panel has been scraped, the left doors have scrapes. Ideally it needs the rear quarter and left doors sprayed plus rear left door trim replaced. Roof lining has been pinned up. It would make a suitable project for someone, in the meantime it is 100% ready to drive. The mechanical side of things are good. Over 30k in receipts from the time I have owned the car. Things have always been replaced as required. Off the top of my head since I have owned: - Replaced Kidney Grills - Replaced Radiator - Replaced Coolant Hoses - Replaced Expansion Tank - Replaced Belts - Replaced Alternator - Replaced Pulleys - Replaced Oil Pan - Replaced Oil Seals - Replaced MAF's - Replaced OSV's - Replaced Boots On OSV's - Replaced Spark Plugs - Replaced Leads - Replaced CAS - Replaced Rotors & Distributors - Replaced DSC Module - Replaced Dash Ribbon - Installed 16:9 Monitor (Has 4:3 Tuner, Had DVB-T 16:9 But Sold) - Replaced Faulty PDC Sensor - Replaced All Suspension Arms - Drivers Door Key Deleted - Replaced Remote Battery - Replaced Fuel Tank - Replaced 2nd Battery (New) - Replaced Master Battery (Undersized) - Replaced Drive Shaft Centre Bearing - Replaced Drive Shaft Flex Disk - Replaced Drive Shaft CV Joint - Replaced CD Changer - Replaced EKAT Grounding Cable - Replaced Battery Switching Module - Replaced Cabin Filters - Replaced A/C Filters - Replaced Air Filters - Oil Changes Always Will Full Synthetic Since I Have Owned. New WOF, Rego On Hold. The coding on the car is all tidy. KMS reported on the EWS are out but else all matching. Few errors, I try to check every few months and keep on top of them. Oil Sensor is faulty and returns immediate error, Thermostat returns immediate error. Both are not leaking/mechanically fine so have not replaced yet, other than these 2 the car returns no errors after clearing and driving for 10km. Car is coded with double flashing blinkers. I have removed the DVB-T module so the TV is not working in NZ at present. Drivers door keylock has been deleted. Needs rear wheel alignment, ill have that done this week. Car has been in storage for a few months. WOF'd today. $6500, ono. Car is in Auckland, Photos this weekend if fine. Orient Blue & Grey Interior.

Need both grills.. Too many clips gone on mine. 2nd Hand and must be super cheap...

I am trying to find a replacement battery for one of my E38's, It's for a 750 and is the bottom 2nd battery. It has an aftermarket 100Ah battery in it at the moment which is on the way out.. I tried an OEM one out of my other E38 and it works fine.. Not really wanting to buy a brand new one due to the cost... So looking for a 2nd hand one... does anyone know any of the BMW wreckers that have a pile of the large OEM batteries sitting round?.. Or anyone with a reasonable condition one.... Ideally Auckland somewhere.

Picked up another e38 with no CD changer and it's too close to Christmas to order after market. Does anyone have a working Pi CD changer they will let go cheap? (pref Auckland)

Does anyone know somewhere in Auckland that stocks Pentosin CHF 11S?

Thanks all, Ray has taken care of this for me. Will get into it over the long weekend.

I am wanting to upgrade my 4:3 to a 16:9. Either a E39 or E38 would be ok. X5 also depending on price.

Thanks all, Given I am already placing a huge international order a few hundred more on new leads doesn't seem too bad. Not looking forward to the customs fee but otherwise ok.

Evening All. Set out today to change my spark plugs and oil.. Decided I would start on the drivers side of the engine. Set the hood at 90 degrees and got to work. Removed cool box and all other bits and pieces I could. I have so far managed to change Plug #1, #2 and #4. I am having a huge amount of trouble getting the other 3 leads out... They are pretty well stuck in there. Spent an hour trying to get #3 out before deciding to take a break. Trying to avoid pulling the wire as I don't want to snap it. Does anyone have any ideas?.... Engine is still slightly warm at this time having driven this morning. Edit: 11/12 done Plug #3 has a slight tear... sigh looks like a new set of leads.

Hello All, First post here having recently bought a 750il. Slowly working through all the minor issues and cleaning the car up. The one issue I have at the moment is the car is shaking a fair bit on the front end, front left tire is worn quite well compared to the other tires which all appear to have been changed at the same time. I'm going to go and get an alignment done later in the week and see if that helps the situation. I am just trying to work out if the front left shock is playing up and that is causing the issues or if poor alignment has simply worn some of the front bushings and made things worse over time. In the coming weeks I would like to throw a new set of tires on the car and with that I would also like to replace all the bushings. Suspension wise I would like to leave for now unless a strut is playing up in which case I would just find a 2nd hand one and throw a new set of genuine springs on. A full new set of oem suspension might be an option down the track but not at this time. What does everyone recommend in terms of replacing the bushings/control arms ect? I was going to simply order the following from Pelican 4 Control Arms 2 Sway Bar Links 2 Tie Rods 1 Center Link 1 Idler Arm Assembly 4 Rear Axle Control Arms 2 Rear Axle Ball Joints 2 Snap Rings for Ball Joint 2 Integral Links With HD Bushings & HD Ball Joints What else if anything would be recommended to change at the same time?