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JackDatBoi

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Posts posted by JackDatBoi

  1. Posted · Edited by JackDatBoi · Report reply

    Hi all,

    Bit of a gamble but I was wondering if anyone would be keen to share/ has inside storage for a car?

    Keen to store the bimmer inside away from the elements. 

    Preferably on the north shore but open to anywhere in Auckland. 

    Cheers

    • Like 1

  4. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, dirtydoogle said:

    Any engineer can re-drill your hubs, brake rotors and or drums, piece of cake. Do not fill original holes, that's illegal and foolish

     

    Use hubcentric rings

    Dunno about offsets on e21s though 

    Thanks for the info. Had no idea it was illegal - good to know! I found these hub centric rings: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/other/listing/3551428528?bof=kPKH8wdv - No idea if they're any good or not?

    Thanks again for the reply! Big help.

    I'll have a look around for some engineers. 

  6. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, M3AN said:

    You're familiar with stud pattern and want to fit 4x114.3 wheels on a 4x100 hub? How's that going to work? Besides that the centre bore is way too far off to make compatible, if you wanted to use adaptors (still not sure that gap is possible) then you'll also need a cert.

    I'd look for some other wheels you like, you can use a site like https://www.willtheyfit.com/ to plug in your stock wheel dimensions and the offset etc of wheels you like to see if they'll fit or poke too much. Whether they'll hit the brakes will require you to either take some measurements and do some calculations yourself, or use a combo tried and tested by somebody else.

     

     

    Hence why I said I want to re drill/ run adapters. I've looked everywhere for wheels which are 4x100 but can't find anything I like. Most wheels are just knockoffs and look cheap. I guess I'll have to take some measurements and possibly run adapters! Thanks for the reply. 

    • Like 1

  7. Posted · Edited by JackDatBoi · Report reply

    Hello all,

    I'm looking at buying some new wheels for the old E21 but not sure if they'll fit... After doing some research, I found out that E21's are 4x100 with I think et25 and center bore: 57.1mm.. I'm familiar with stud patterns but clueless with the rest! The wheels I'm looking at are 4x114.3 Albino Fins (I realise 4x114.3 won't fit 4x100) - they cost a pretty penny, so I'm just looking for advice before I click 'buy now'. The specs on the wheels are as follows: 

    15x6.5 - offset: +20 Front/ +14 Rear - Center Bore: 71.5mm

    I know some people say it's sketchy running adapters and I'm struggling to find anyone who can fill & re-drill. I'm sure someone on here has run 4x114.3 with 4x100 adapters on here? Ddi they fir/ drive ok? Have any issues? 

    If anyone can help me in regards to IF I have to run adapters, will they fit? Will they hit the brakes? 

    Again... I'm useless with wheel specs, so any help would go a long way!

    Cheers. 

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Hi everyone!

    I'm looking at buying some sexy wheels for my 1979 E21 and was wondering if i could grab some help before I purchase! 

    The wheels I'm wanting to buy are: 

    14x6.5

    +15

    4x114.3

    CB:77

    Just wondering if these will fit ok? 

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    Jack 

     

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Have one that needs work haha its good internally but has a problem with the shift rods inside the box. Wont allow you to select any gear accept 5th and reverse. Could be an easy fix

    Thanks for the reply, really after something that can go straight in and work straight up haha. I'll ask a mate about the shift rods and get back to you mate.

    • Like 1

  20. Posted · Edited by JackDatBoi · Report reply

    *Brand New - Never Used*

    Link to part on website: http://www.redlineauto.com.au/p-142-redline-12-3063-manifold-datsun-16001800-2x-dcoe-webers.aspx#.Vp9M8vl97Dc

    Part Number: 12-3063

    This manifold accepts 2 X DCOE Weber carburettors (designed for 45 DCOE Webers) - the perfect performance upgrade for your vehicle. Redline Performance manufactures quality performance products and our manifolds are cast locally in Sydney using Australian Aluminium. All our manifolds are designed to produce maximum torque and horsepower.

    post-17446-0-26116400-1454789247_thumb.j

    post-17446-0-91624100-1454789272.jpg

    post-17446-0-47434600-1454789316.jpg

    post-17446-0-09078300-1454789491.jpg

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Yep head and/or gasket is gone, the thermostat in these is easy to pull out and clean, just undo the 3 hose clamps and pull it out. If you need new motor i have a spare m10b20 i can sell....

    No viscous fan in these, just bolted straight to the pulley.

    aja540i

    Cheers mate. I'm seeing my mate who pretty much does everything with the car, so I'll have a chat to him and see what he thinks. How much would the motor be/ would it fit straight on?

    Cheers.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Looks like you've got a job to do for the holidays! Depending on how bad it's gotten you might want to add a new radiator to the shopping list. Once they go it's nearly impossible to get all the goo out of the radiator passages. Could also be that the oil & water sludge is causing the thermostat to stick open when it's trying to close, hence the gauge needle reading low.

    Park it up and replace the gasket, get the head skimmed & crack tested etc... If you keep driving it like that the sludge can build to the point where the water pump can no longer drive the sludge through the engine and you'll end u with a cracked head and / or a seized engine.

    Now would also be the perfect time for an M20B25 conversion :ph34r:

    I'm installing an M20B25 in a year :D I'm saving to move to Norway at the moment, so all my savings are invested in that! I'll pop to my local mechanic and see what he thinks. Thanks for all the advice though! :D

  25. Posted · Report reply

    If the temp gueage is going down to 25% I'd be investigating your thermostat and / or the temp sensor. Needle should always be at 12 - though it may be different for E21? (Buggered if I can think of why though)

    Head gaskets can let go without sending water into the bore though, so that could still be the problem. I would have expected a little water / oil blending but if the gasket split managed to avoid the oil passages that could explain it.

    If your car has a viscous type fan clutch check that too. Climbing temps while stationary / crawling suggests air isn't being pulled through the rad core

    Thanks for the advice mate! Not 100% sure about the viscous fan clutch - so i'll look into that! Before starting work I pulled into a gas station to show you a picture of what the oil cap looks like when hot - pretty milky :S + I took a shot of the temp gauge and how it sits pretty much every day.

    Cheers

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