Drea//Mer

oh wow that seems like a bit of a process! i just had a look and it will probably be easier to do the entire rear end it looks like theres only 8 big bolts holding the entire thing in. Im guessing the other rubber hose going into the centre of each hub is the hand brake line? That was my only issue with unbolting the whole back end, good to know it unplugs up by the hand brake.

Ok brent i think ill trust your experience here... going to start trying to remove axles and diff now, Im sure this is the easiest option as I dont want to disconnect the brake lines in the back, and just from a visual inspection the rear brake setups on both cars seem to be identical. They only have different swaybar diff and axles.

Its going to be a 325 automatic, and the mrs daily driver so it wont be a skid machine... The ratio of the 318i diff in at the moment is 4.44 if im reading the tags correctly and the 325i diff is a 3.73. I've read elsewhere that the gear sets are interchangable on most e36/e30 diffs, is this an option? or will the larger case gear set be too big for the small diff?

ok thanks for that, also im guessing leaving the stock 318i diff behind the m50tub25 is a bad idea?

Hi guys, first post in years lol... Im half way through doing a 318i -> 325i swap and i was wondering if anyone could tell me if the small case diff from the 318i runs different output shafts from the medium case diff in the 325i? Im assuming the 318i runs longer shafts as the diff is smaller. Also i havent been able to find a good guide on removing the output shafts from the wheel hub, is this easy to do at home or will i need to go buy some special tools? Thanks -Kieran

I agree. im going to build angled spacers so they sit as lot lower on the parcel tray, havent been pulled for them yet tho and those have been sitting there for around 9 months. I take them out for wofs

I really didnt want to take pics yet... still needs a lot of work. Most of the enclosures are temporary and i will hide all of the wires when i can be bothered lol. I couldnt find a way through my firewall for all of the power cables so they run through the front quater panel and through the door. Oh and i cracked a sub, one of the amps fell on it so until i fin d a replacement its repaired with fixall My cars a bit of a mess, but heres some photos..

Just completed an audio upgrade; for those interested heres what im running: Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P5950IB Fronts (behind kick panels): Pioneer TSG1611 6.5" Speakers Rears (behind factory grilles): Pioneer TSG1611 6.5" Speakers Rears (Boxed in parcel tray): 350w Pioneer 6x9"s (not sure which model) Amp #1 (Mounted under passenger side carpet): Lanzar heritage 1000w 4ch amp - This amp runs the 6x9"s and the front 6.5"s, the rear 6.5"s are running off 50w head unit outputs. Subs: 2x Sony 12" 1300w drivers & 2x Sony 10" 1200w drivers Amp #2 & #3 (Mounted in the boot): Sony XM2002GTR 1200w 2ch & Sony XM2022GTR 1200w 2ch - These are the most powerful amps sony has on offer i believe, Combined with 4 subs the bass is my car is VERY loud Capacitors (Mounted in the boot): 2x 1.5 farad Phoenix Digital capacitors K so thats my setup... still a little messy, my boot is a mess of wires and theres pretty much no room in it with 4 subs 2 amps and 2 caps. Its loud enough for the moment. edit: forgot to mention; the head unit is ipod integrated so all my music is run off the ipod with around 10000 songs

They came as you see them. Cost around $100 nzd for 2 plates and mounting plates, they did however come with 2 round germanplates.com stickers which i didn't apply. They are advertised as "old face german plates" all of the new european plates have the blue sticker on the left hand side Cheers

I got it from trademe, auction went for $500 (i was the only bidder =) ) but it was around $300 to ship across the country and was missing 2 jack point covers from the side skirts... after buying sand paper, spray paint, mesh, adhesive and the missing bits it woulda run me around $1000 all up

Lol i had the same issues with wiring... looked everywhere for a comprehensive guide and found nothing... it is really simple though... the kit i got came with a wiring harness, one wire goes to your + battery terminal, another goes to ground, then the balasts plug into the harness and theres a final + wire that is used as a signal on wire. Splice the signal wire on to your park lights then snip the wires to the park lights and the angel eyes will replace your park lights. Sounds confusing but it really isnt. pm me if you need help

i installed myself. not too much of a hassle, you just have to take your lights out, open them up (4 clips i think) cut the lenses out, glue the rings in and then reseal the lenses with silicone.

ebay.com.au

Update: Sideskirts, mirrors, splitters and german plate. To Do: Tint, paint, sound, interior, brakes, shocks, engine swap

Hey guys, i just bought these off trademe for $80 and when i got them i realised they dont fit my wheels at all, they are made to fit stock bmw wheels... all offers considered, ill upload a photo soonish

i agree, its at a good height. I already have issues with speed bumps, i will install either front splitters or a lip which will make it look a lil more slammed at the front

togate: no the kit is an original bmw motorsport kit made from abs moktar: yes i installed the umnitza preditor chromium kit on stock lights. i know the tails are ugly... i got them cheap and wanted something to get rid of the orange blinkers, i plan on buying other lights in the future

An update: New 18"'s and motorsport kit... still need to install side skirts (these are the most difficult part to install and ive had little time) todo: Personalized german plate, bilstein shocks, upgrade brakes, window tint, engine swap, paint, rolled guards

Cheers man, yeah prolly rims next... when i get a job lol, ive been doing all the work on student allowance so far

Hey thought i'd share a few pics for once... Bought it in june and replaced the lights, lowered on b+g superlow springs Dunno if i like the taillights... might change them in future. On my todo list is a full 35% tint job, paint job (colour matched or complete respray), 18" mags and an mtech kit Photos were taken from my phone camera so the quality isnt that great

i was meaning the 3.5 jack on the belkin charger... that would be the one that the preamp wires inside are connected to wont it?

heh, well at the moment its a bit of a temporary job, the only visible wire is under the dash on the passenger side, but its tidy. The amp is being switched on from a 12v wire i found behind the glove box, no idea what its for but i tested it with a multimeter and it switches off when the car acc power is switched off so i just piggybacked a wire off it for my amp. I already have a cheap ipod charger i bought in hong kong for around $8 nzd so im not too worried about hacking it up to fit. That charger on trademe looks like the ticket tho... Question, why cut n splice all the wires from the charger when i could plug my existing 3.5mm to rca cable into the charger and recieve the same pre-amp signal it was intended for?

Thought i'd follow up on my progress... I managed to run the 4g wire under the edge of my left front guard and down the side through the passenger door, from there i wired the amp under the mat on the passenger side. Its a bit of a cludge i know; but it cant be seen and the door still closes and seals. I run all of my sound off my ipod (3.5mm to rca cable into amp) thats why i chose to mount the amp in the front of the car instead of the boot, it saves me carting a wad of cds around. Does anyone know where i can source an ipod car charger that works in a bmw? My old one for my previous car doesnt seem to

Yeah man for sure! Cheers man, E36 for the win

Can i do this with factory suspension?