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dereklau007

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Posts posted by dereklau007

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Adeeb,

    Being a noob when it comes to working on my car I can say that the parking brake shoes were pretty straight forward. Given they were a bit fiddly, however the hardest part was getting my old rotors off!

    If you google E39 Parking Brake DIY you should be able to find a DIY for a 1998 BMW 528i on bimmerfest that was pretty helpful when I did mine

    Hope this will inspire you to give it a go

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  2. Posted · Report reply

    I agree with Allan because more often than not the culprit is actually the Oil Filter Housing Gasket and that just goes everywhere. I've recently done this and while in there I did the CCV and associated hoses.

    You will still get some oil for a few weeks as there will be residual old oil around the place but now the area for me is bone dry and the bottom of the engine only has specs of old oil.

    I believe to do the oil pan gasket it is quite a PITA as you have to remove the sub frame (click here for DIY link)

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Are you 100% the rattling is coming from the ICV? And not from the disa valve or anything?

    100% sure because it's the ICV that's in my hand with the odd sound. As I originally posted "I cleaned it (ICV) with some carb cleaner and it was a little better however now after some twisting (like you would on a bike throttle) there is a rattling sound that I've never heard before"

    To clarify the noise it's more like a loose ball bearing in a can type of sound.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Everyone,

    Halfway through my CCV, OFHG (including vanos oil line and crush washers) and 2 camshaft position sensor marathon I noticed that my ICV was a little dirty and wasn't moving around freely. I cleaned it with some carb cleaner and it was a little better however now after some twisting (like you would on a bike throttle) there is a rattling sound that I've never heard before. Did something break inside the ICV?

    Didn't want to reinstall everything and find the ICV is busted...

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Car info: 2002 530i (M54 engine)

    Cheers,

    Derek

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Did a quick search online and came up with this link

    The shimmy can be down to a few things:

    1) Balancing and alignment of the wheel/s

    2) Bushings (as you've indicated)

    3) Buckled or bent wheels

    4) Tyre pressures

    There's other things as well such as torquing the lug bolts correctly, valve stem cap covers but not sure if they would have that much of an impact.

    The delaminating of the mirror is probably down to the degradation of the electro-chromatic (auto-dimming) gel in the mirrors. You can get replacements however it's not cheap... You can always replace them with non auto-dimming ones at a fraction of the price

    I would definitely get it checked out by someone who knows their stuff about e39 or BMWs so will know what to look out for.

    I'm not sure if the guide talks about the ABS/ASC/DSC module but that's also another area to watch out for.

    Depending on the engine you get there are other common things to look out for. For the M54 or M52 engines the usual things to look out for would be the cooling system, vanos, cam/crank sensors, seals/gaskets

    Didn't look into the M62 but I'm sure other's who own them will have more knowledge

    Maintained well it's a car to enjoy for a very long time

    Hope it helps

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I've read on other forums that when you get a new (or second hand that is working) you need to recode it to your vehicle because the modules are specific to the cars. So the person that you sold it onto might have been lucky in terms of the module being the same specs as their current car (i.e. transmission, model, year etc)

    There are some people that say no need to code and others swear you need it coded (but also some sitting on the fence dependant on situation)

    Might be more confusing but an interesting read (please note that some of the information given is for cars that are equipped with DSC (whole raft of other sensors as compared with ASC))

    More info

    Hope this helps and hopefully I haven't misunderstood the information

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Dave,

    As the other guys have pointed out it would be the adjusters in the headlights. When I purchased mine I had them fixed by the car yard. My headlights are the facelift version with xenons so you couldn't just unclip the lens cover like the pre-facelift versions.

    Glenn from Botany Motorworx was able to get me in touch with someone that actually fixes these as a hobby. I think someone else on the forum also got this person to fix theirs.

    I'd give Glenn a PM or a call as he does have the contact.

    All the best and hopefully you will get it sorted.

    Cheers,

    Derek

  15. Posted · Report reply

    I'm in the process of gathering all the parts to do a transmission flush and change the filter and pan gasket.

    My question is that BMW recommends using Esso LT 71141 however has anyone used a different fluid that is fully synthetic and have good results?

    It would be great if there are alternatives out there readily available in NZ.

    My car is a 2002 530i Motorsport

    Cheers,

    Derek

  16. Posted · Report reply

    I believe that the 528i's (M52B28) last year of production was 2000. Then it was replaced by the 530i (M54B30).

    One way to find out exactly what engine the car has is to get the last 7 characters of the VIN and plug it into realoem.com

    Some extra information can be found on the official Alpina site about the E39 Alpinas

    Like Shane pointed out that if it is a genuine Alpina B10 it will have a price premium on it. Would be interested to find out what the real deal is with the car you are looking at.

    Cheers,

    Derek

  17. Posted · Report reply

    235 are fine on 8" rims

    Absolutely, I believe from factory it came with the option of staggered fitment or 8" all round. My car came with the 8" fronts and 9" rears. Not optimum to have 235's but still within the limits on the 9".

    The next time I need tyres I'll put the 235's I have on the rear on the front and get 255's for the rear.

    I have to admit that I don't push the car to its limits (or the tyres) so the less grip the 235's provide won't be noticeable for me.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    The car tended to oversteer and let go rather early at the rear plus it tended to wheel spin easily.

    Turn in was inconsistent, and often required correction mid corner to counter the oversteer generated by the rear end walking. Front was okay.

    I suspect this was due to the stretch of the tyre -- Fine if you want to go drifting or dribbling in traffic but crap if you want to drive quickly and safely.

    I suspect you could have got the correct size tyre with a bit more effort?

    Interesting things brought up. Would completely agree that the wider track would give better traction. In terms of stretch; only way to find out would be to test with 235's fitted to 8" and 9". With that said it would still be subjective...

    At that time I oly had a couple of hours before I needed to head up north so wasn't able to source 255's! Just a string of unfortunate events... Good trip though!

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Nathan,

    My wheels were staggered like what Ron said (235/45/17 and 255/40/17 front and rear respectively). I had the unfortunate situation a month ago where a nail went in the sidewall of one of my rear tyres so had to quickly get it sorted. Long story short I couldn't find any 255/40/17 in stock at the time so had to replace both my rear wheels with 235/45/17's (designed to fit 7.5" - 9.0" rims) Bridgestone RE002 at Tony Tyre Service in Papatoetoe for $235 each ($10 price beat guarantee as Hyper was selling for $245 each)

    My impressions so far is that they definitely give plenty of grip and are pretty quiet for a performance tyre so couldn't be happier with them! At that price for such a good tyre I couldn't say no... Now there might be better deals out there (not sure) but I was in a hurry so was the best I could do at the time.

    Cheers,

    Derek

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Miles,

    Yeah as Shane said they are pretty busy. I had to book mine in almost 2 months in advance for my car. It's harder for them when it comes to E39's due to the very tight gaps. Seth had to book my car in for a couple of hours to be on the safe side so that might also be a factor too (normally he books cars in 1 to 1.5 hours apart).

    On another note I upgraded to the Colour Stable tints and am very happy with them! I will have to take the car back to get Seth to look at a few spots and a long scratch along one of the rear passenger windows but otherwise very happy with the service and results.

    Cheers,

    Derek

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Hi,

    I'm planning to change my diff oil and have been read that it's recommended to replace the drain plugs and sealing washers.

    The part numbers are:

    Drain Plug / Check Plug - 33117525064

    Drain / Check Plug Sealing Wahser - 07119963355

    Is there anyone that can help me source these items or is there a contact that anyone would suggest?

    Thanks in advance,

    Kind regards,

    Derek

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