brentf

hey guys the time has come to sell my beloved E30 project as we are looking at buying a house.I have put alot of blood sweet and tears into this and loved every minute of it lol. All the information is on the auction . Please feel free to ask me any questions http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=270494580 Thanks Brent

I am looking at installing a shift light it to my e30 (1988 facelift coupe 320i) and what I need to know is if any one can tell me what colour wire the feed wire is to the dash tacho so that i can use that as my feed wire to the shift light any help would be muchly appreciated

You could try Kendyl at Xtreme Rpm she is great to deal with and can get pretty cheap prices on auto meter gauges mechanical or electrical. Xtreme Rpm 6 Karewa Place Hamilton (07) 958 1893 www.xrpm.co.nz Say Brent put you on to her and she will give you a good deal.

hey mate what colour is the car? thanks brent

Seal Imports Auckland 657 Great South Road Penrose Auckland Talk to nick there and say Brent from the hamilton branch sent you and he will give you a good deal on all orings and rotary seals that we stock.

Does anyone have a broken getrag 240 gearbox that they don't want anymore preferably one that suits a m20 but the 4 cylinder version box will do as well? Thanks Brent

hey there thanks, Yes Ollie this is hopefully destined for the e30 series. I have sitll not decided whether or not i will be the driver i may sell it before then. But we will see what happens. Yes the cage is reasonably extensive but each bar has a purpose. It is my first cage i have built fully tig welded. I worked on teh theory that if it ahs to be a certian weight i may aswell try and make the car as rigid as possible. and put the weight as much on the diff as i can thats why the main hoop is further back than most of the cars. Haha whether these things will help will be interesting to see when it gets on to the track. JiB The cage was painted by a freind of mine with a gravity feed spray gun (the spray guns with the pot on the top) I etch primed teh cage with a black etch from a spray can and i used a silver acrythane paint that came out really well. The wya he explained to me painting the cage and from what i saw was that each bar needs three sprays to cover over the bars Eg. at 120 degrees around the bar. he started at the rear working his way forward. He did teh bars rear parcel tray and rear seat then the roof and then once they had 2 coats the floor. Thanks Brent

Hey guys since you all have helped me out answering various questions so I thought that I would share with you my race car build do far. Part one. I got the shell from Ray (thanks Ray) a diamond shwartz facelift coupe. Then striped the shell down to nothing and then took to my part time job at Mitchell Race Extreme and started preping and building the roll cage. Part two. Once I finished that i bought it home and tipped it over and took off all the under seal. Part three Once I had done this I preped for paint and a mate of mine and i painted it on a hoist i painted the under body and the engine bay black and the inside silver. While the car was away i decided to attak the dash I decided to look into getting it flocked and it seemed a bit to expensive. So decided to get some fabric from spot light $3 per m and some contact glue and some thin alloy. I made plates to cover over the unused air vents and tray on top of the dash and made some plates to cover over the holes made to fit the dash around the roll cage. Then I used some contact glue and the fabric and covered the whole dash. Here are the pice of the dash and the painted car. The next thing is putting the fuel system painted and back onto the car and paint the subframe make some new bushes for them and then finish the wiring. I appreciate any comments Thanks Brent

Hey guys, Sorry for the late reply I have been very busy this week. I now have prices and info for you. The standard size for a E30 engine mount ( MY E30 Engine mount facelift 320i ) was 70mm od and a 42mm length. So I have allowed for a 3mm steel washer at either end and you will have to sort out a bolt or stud depending on which way you want to go. I have got a few prices depending on the OD the smaller OD the cheaper the price. Take $10 off the price if you can make the washers yourself and just want the polyuerthane or acetal part. Polyurethane Blue 70mm OD $43.60 ( Possibly red depends on what they have in stock at the time ) '' '' " 63mm OD $35.10 ( Possibly red depends on what they have in stock at the time ) " " " 48mm OD $25.00 ( Possibly red depends on what they have in stock at the time ) The Polyurethane is just standard 95 shore A Acetal White/Black 70mm OD $37.23 ( Can have either Black or White ) " " " 61mm OD $30.07 ( Can have either Black or White ) " " " 51mm OD $25.40 ( Can have either Black or White ) Prices are Each and Add $4.00 for freight Thanks Brent

Will work out a price on Monday. But the Acetal will be cheaper than the polyurethane. But will give you a price for both. What sizes would you want them made to?

Hey there, Just reading your thread and i have some red urethane in stock and could machine them if you like? or i even have acetal(POM) in stock if you want that. I machine plastics as a job so would be easy for me to spin a couple up for you. The urethane i I have Im not to sure of what hardess it is i can test it with our hardness tester and let you know later. You can infact bet different grade hardnesses of urethane. Usually the ones you get from mulford or dotmar is called LURETHANE and is very soft maybe 70 shore A and is very hard to machine and get a nice finish on you need quite sharp tips and a vacumm helps to keep the swarf away. Drilling urethane does not leave a very nice finish on the inside but as it is a engine mount it shouldn't worry it to much. I can get urethane which is 95 shore A or 54 or 58 Shore D Which is quite solid for a urethane as acetal is 75D which is classed as a plastic. Obvoiusly the ones i make will need a bolt or stud through the center of them. I mean if autolign can get nolathane moulded on to you standard engine mounts then that is another good option. But the engine mounts i have seen off and E30 from memory are like two flat plates of steel with bolts on them with a rubber sandwiched in between and the ones i have seen usually break through inbetween the steel and the rubber. Having the bolt/stud go right through will solve this issue but please correct me if i'm wrong i havent tested any to see the difference. I was thinking of making some engine mounts for my race car but as it is for the E30 class i cant run them. But will be looking at making Acetal bushes for everywhere else lower cotrol arms etc etc at a later stage. If your interested for the engine mounts please just PM me and we can arrange something. Sorry for hijaking the thread. Thanks Brent

Hi There sorry have been on holiday. I dont see why not unless someone wants to correct me. I am replacing the bush with the same material and same sizes. Its in 2 pieces as instead of one. Thanks Brent

Im Sorry for my late reply just had to pull the gear shift rod joint off my box. Here goes my description as best i can remember: First i removed the joint off the back off the shift rod by removing the spring clip around the outside and punching out the pin through the center. Then removed the circlip and washer and pulled it off of the shaft attached to the gear stick. This is the part once removed off of the gearbox. I then set it up in a lathe as per the photo below and then drilled out the remains of the old bush making sure not to take any of the housing out with it. I think from memory the drill size is 12mm. And clean out the remains of the old bush from the linear grooves. (Sorry about the messy lathe i had been machining aluminum just before) Once this is done it is now time to machine the bushes. I made my bushes out of PETP (Ertalyte) this is a hard wearing material with all the right properties of a bush in this application. You can also use Acetal (Delrin) it also has similar properties but the PETP is slightly harder wearing. I machined two L shaped bushes and pressed them in from either end. Below I have done a quick drawing of the housing and what the bushes will look like when installed. housing.doc The sizes i made them to I THINK (sorry i will write them down properly when i do another one) was 10.00 ID 15.00 OD2 (This was a press fit 0.1 up on the Steel size) 12.00 OD1 (This was a press fit 0.1 up on the Steel size) 15.85 HT 2.00 shoulder Once they were installed in the housing I re-drilled the ID to out to 10mm to make sure it would fit on the shaft but be snug. This is what they look like installed. I can do this for anyone if they want me to. I think it will cost around $10-$15 plus freight. Just PM me and we can go from there. Thanks Brent

hey guys, I dont know if any one is interested or not. But when i did mine i also changed the bush that is at the gearbox end that attaches to the selector shaft. I dont know if you can buy them so i made my own looks exactly like the ones on the bottom of the z3 shifter.If any one is interested i can do a right up or even machine them for you. Thanks Brent

Was this off a power steering or a non power steering rack?