williams

try atf oil(dextron) in gearbox for cold temp,while car is idling put it in gear and hold clutch in for a while to see if there is no leakage from master cylinder, when releasing take note where the clutch is grabbing(normal) possition

did it cut out on you while driving or just not want to start? had similar problem with not starting one morning, tried everything, eventually put jumper leads on- pedal to the metal an crank took a while then started has never happened again

if u have the idle control valve still out of the car put it in boiling hott water to see if opens/closes,check water flow from the thin water hoses that attatch to it(back of block/thermostat housing), the last picture is the idle speed screw,if the idle valve is stuck closed many people adjust idle to idle when cold but has the negative effect of idling high when hot.this will not cause car not to start,check fuel pressure - u can bridge big red with green/purple on fuel relay to run fuel pump, remove oilcap check if cam is still turning then cranking,check if coil is sparking,

ps while idle valve is out check the earth wires under intake manifold, also check if all thin wires are tight on battery positive

pull out black insert trim in rear bumper,remove the plastic rivets in rear wheel arches holding bumper, there will be 2 bolts where the bumper shocks are(viewed from bottom), if it is a preface lift u can just pull off the bumper but if it is a facelift then bumper should be pushed forward and outward before pulling it off

if it is a 7 pin open it and resolder -cheapest

check fuses

Can someone tell me where the 1998 540 carbon canister is situated? is this an easy fix to change the canister and fit a new one ? and does someone have a diagram of the area?

sounds more like a starter problem, next time it wont start pour cold water over the starter to cool it off, if it starts then its the starter most likely

if its a manual then check the wires for the reverse lights at the gearlever

sounds like an air leak, what else did you strip off-rocker cover?

wont fit as mounting brackets differ and the light total length differ as well

from memory 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder ews differ, and do not work on each other

try removing the oil level sensor and use a magnet to fish out the nut

check the rotor -see if the cutout spring is not broken and feel if the rotor is tight fitting on the shaft

common problem 4 cyl e36 bmws brake light failure is the switch -situated on brake pedal,to test remove the kick panel unplug the switch and bridge the 2 wires

also depends on what compresion ratio your running +boost???

why would he want to up the idle in the first place? if you adjust the accelerator cable there will be even more problems with idle, as the dme wont know if the car is iling or half throttle.check for air leaks

pm me,you could try one that i have if you like it you can buy it- i like it alot

most important thing to remember is to disconnect the battery for at least half an hour before any work is to be done on an airbag system,so that the capasitors can discharge completely, you can use small cable-ties instead of ogg clips. doing it in the car is a bit uncomfortable,remove the set 4 bolts,unplug the airbag harness under the seat,remove the seat from car,loosen safetybelt,loosen the side trim -torx screws,unhook the seat material and lift it slowly,you can cut the clips,try not to bend the side metal rods,take note where they are fastened ,until you can access the mat then replace..

have someone scan the alarm memory to see what the fault is causing the alarm to sound

pressure valve behind the exhaust at the rear side of the motor,oring goes hard with age and leaks engine oil-possible cause.

check if all spark plugs are tight

could be that your pollen filter/micro filter is blocked,normally fitted from drivers side foot well,will influence both heater temp and aircon temp +air flow

vanos is just a cam-timing adjustment, did u run the car without the intake air box?if you did you could have cleaned the idle valve, the ideal would be to get a co machine onto the motor- as each throttle can be adjusted individually for co's , if you look on the exhaust manifold you will see blanking off bolts,where hollow rods are screwed into,the co's of each cylinder is checked and adjusted as close to the leanest one,

check the battery positve connection-has a small red wire connected in the terminal,if battery is not secured then this wire has a tendency to break off