Beeker2

Anyone recommend who can do this as a turn key service for me ? 

The e36 has some minor under body corrosion developing. I heard fish oil was a quick fix to limit it ?

thoughts?

thanks guys

27 minutes ago, LsBeema said:

Any pics homs...

Old and new 

Before i list it, just looking for some advice on its value?

Full exhaust from headers back.

Removed as a race car project. Aprox 120kms when it came off.

Let me know your thoughts.

thanks! 

On 6/26/2016 at 8:50 PM, beeker said:

When we removed the abs controller unit, but with abs still plumbed, no issues with any engine rev issues.

Been a while since my last post, but thought I would provide an update on the abs setup. We originally had it disabled (Ecu removed), but still plumbed in. We also had a Willwood bias valve to adjust rear bias (but can only reduce over oem setting, not more). 
 

As it turn out that was a bad idea. After starting to really drive the car, we found the brakes wouldn’t unlock quickly when you’re right on the limit, consider it a bit sticky to stay locked once you lock it up. Ugly really, and it actually put me off the road on a stage, luckily very minor damage. 
 

After changing my undies I went out to hamptons to repeat the over driving scenarios and managed to recreate the scenario where is doesn’t quickly unlock once you lock and then you have wait for what seems like eternity before you get brake or steering back. 

Back  to the workshop. Completely pulled the abs pump out and installed an AP racing rear bias valve (more adjustability than willwood). 
 

Then back to the track to simulate lockup’s Bingo, fixed. I can now lock up the brakes, yet release them and immediately have the brakes unlock. The on / over limit characteristics are where they should have been and now a ball of fun to live on or over the limit.

Now I’m not sure whether it was just the disabled abs pump that did it, or it was the second bias valve for the rear, or combination. But if your setup sounds anything like this, ensure you do some decent lockup testing prior to race day.  

Anybody know of any for sale ?

I prefer the OEM ones if possible 

Do you happen to have any of the interior parts? Reat parcel tray, door cards etc?

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all gone long ago i'm afraid

only the 3.0 stock exhaust when i get around to that.

Abs delete, saved 4.8kg

Morseo, on limit braking is better, will post more on that series of changes and recommendations later.

Who made the bonnet?

Car is starting to look pretty well set up!

We do these at work (Chicane Racewear) which may suit your air flow needs

re: Bonnet, Its a UK sourced Geoff Steel Racing Bonnet, Boot, Spoiler.

Exchange rate was better when i got them

RE: Seats. The 4119 is expensive, but its an excellent seat. Comfee, Rigid (3rd point mount), safe.

Finally plumbed in some tubing from the rear 1/4 window ducts to the back of the racetech 4119 seats which have a socket for this purpose.

You can definitely feel a slight breeze in your lower back at motorway speeds.

If needed we can always put an inline fan in there

You get pretty hot in a 3 layer suit, a car which is being thrashed and no insulation between you and the engine/driveline. oh, and no aircon

As the car has a fiberglass bonnet we have no bonnet shocks to hold the bonnet up and its not recommended to hack refit them either as it stresses the thin fiberglass.

I could have got an old broom stick, but have seen soooo many of these end in FAIL when it gets windy.

So, i've created two bonnet stays which attach/lock into the bonnet end and radiator end using the bonnet aero pins or sockets.

One is for the service crew which is longer, more robust, also has a door stopper spring in one end to give it flexibility during attachment to ensure we don't twist and damage the bonnet Aero fitting when attaching / de attaching, the other is a shorter and lighter version for storage in the boot for roadside issues.

These are my home hack prototypes.

Service crew version

I cut the Alu pole and inserted a door stopper spring in the middle, then wrapped in electrical tape to get the right level if rigidity

The lighter weight car boot version

hangs to underside of parcel tray (can slide in and out, no cutters required, its fits snug and doesn't seem to move or vibrate)

Will probably v2.0 refine over time.

That's going to get destroyed fairly quickly on rally stages! Aren't those splitters really hard to come by?? Why not run a replica and keep the genuine??

We are debating how long it will last.

But..It is spring loaded and will retract to flush with the bumper if pushed hard.

They are USD$240 for a genuine splitter base (excluding brackets fittings etc), plus freight / gst.

There is an AU targa rally car that also runs one, so there is a 'hope' it will last, but time will tell.

The car is also set up quite high and i tend to not cut corners, so finger crossed. Remember this is tarmac not gravel or cross.

We also have a solid sump guard right behind it which should take some of the cars weight should we botton it somewhere.

Ask me next month after Bambina.

Nice.

Hope you didn't pay OEM prices for the hardware!!

Got most of it from the USA (much much cheaper), but still cost a few bucks.

Finally got the genuine BMW motorsport front splitter on

Very integrated fitment with the sump guard, allows the slitter to slide back and forth under it

Some waterproof plugs for the vents for when not in use

Ps. For professional plastic Windows etc, I cannot rate plastic construction in Avondale highly enough.

I've asked Dan, too busy at the moment.

Brakes are 355x32 6 pots wilwoods front and rear , will be OK for what I need. This car is not for the road, track only.

re: Dan, he is quality but hard to get into.

re brakes, good that you have the thicker 32mm, you wont regret that for durability. You probbaly wont have to duct them either, my heat paint tests at puke' confimred that for my car

I have the z3 steering rack in, I got the brakes second hand cheap never used.

I've read your project pages , I've also removed the abs system from the car.

Who did your rollcage.

Its a T45 cage from custom cages UK (plus some extra bars), installed by Dan Slater.

Re brakes. I used on the front an Essex Racing (big AP racing disti in the USA) E36/E46 race kit.

It used proper AP race calipers (no boots, piston springs etc) and 32mm thick rotor on custom hats. Its way beefier than the AP Fast Road Kit.

I did use their std fast road kit on the back thou.

Have talked to a few people!!, i will be keeping the standard tank . ( nice and low ,forward of the diff , ) and plastic.

.......I always looked at petrol tanks in the back as pendulms as you go around corners or a bomb if you run into the rear.

those fuel cells are very nice A

Check out my E36 M3 build and the AP front brakes i used. Not to mention the Z3 steering rack

Does this happen to all E36s? Is it only under long term hard use or could happen any time during track use?

My understanding is any e36. Only under extreme conditions. Its rare to occur, but if it occurs where you have no wiggle room, you're in big trouble.

I've had one race driver tell me about it and claim his accident upon it, and another very experienced BMW mechanic/driver explain a similar experience.

Maybe its an urban mith, but i suspect not.

Updated the rally computer to a G200 Monit and added a max speed light.

We'll set this to 195kph to help avoid speed penalities (measured by independant / targa GPS in the car)

what product did you use for the guney flap?

Any chance of some close ups?

Re abs removal

It's because the e36 abs gets a symptom call 'ice mode' unexpectedly during exteme driving. This causes material brake fade and with race speeds often crashes. I know one targa car who went off with it and a reputable BMW driver who put his car off the track with it. As a result, for consistent braking, it's been disabled since the car was built and will be removed soon for weight saving.

If the car was a e46, or other, I would defiantly leave it on or have it on a switch. Just the way it is.

Long time no update. Been working hard, but now prepping for targa 2016.

After my 'make it lighter project' with:

> Alu door

> Remove air cond and emissions pump

> Glass bonnet and boot

> After market boot spoiler

> Plastic windows in rear half of car

Just weighed it today on the local refuge station weigh bridge (same place as my last weigh in check).

Now 1390kg with me in it (77kg) tools, spare tyre, full tank of gas. Everything except a nav.

This is down from the prior weight of 1500kg, so thats a 110kg saving. Happy with that.

Still have ABS pump to remove, 10kg?.

Flipside, still have my OEM front splitter to add, so +6kg for that... Heavy...

My UK CHIP lost me power!!

before and after dynos proved that.

I had by M3 dynoed tuned my gavin 2 weeks ago.

Keep trying, unless he you havnt paid your last bill

and yes $1k ish, gets you a basic tune i think.