Jonty m50e30

Gidday, anyone know where I can get one locally in NZ? Cheers

Cheers yep have seen your ones, very good price for new might still be an option, have seen plenty of second hand ones around $200 in the past, just none for sale now, any one got one spare?

I got one lying round somewhere i think have item 12 also i think, dozen Heineken and they are yours. Down this way any time?

As above any colour, going on race car. prefer good sound condition, let me know your price, cash waiting.

Cheers

Gidday guys, hoping someone can help, any ideas on where I can purchase pads and lines in NZ before the weekend? Or even better if you have some on the shelf or in the shed, I haven't managed to find anyone on web or TM, 93 325i, any help appreciated.

I got a set of black leather door cards, fronts in good shape, rears cards are good leather needs to be stretched and re glued on one $150 if you come get them.

Golf mark II bolts straight up with the m50 conversion, works well.

I'll take the rims off ya, $$?

I will take the flywheel off your hands if you have no luck went from a dual mass to a m20 lightened fly on m50 and was an unmistakeable difference, particularly on decel, e36 now has a dual mass and rev response is very very slow in comparison, i would suggest you have some other issue.

Gidday, don't suppose you have still got the 3.91 LSD at all?

M50 e30 racer long sold, bitten by the bug again, just bought a 5 speed 325 e36 to put on the track, good to be back behind the roundel.

Guys after a window regulator as above any help appreciated.

Slightly off topic but where have you sourced the coilovers? Local? I am interested in some also if they are quality kit. cheers

I have both and a M52B28 and the M50 (325 non vanos) performs a lot better at high revs than both the m52's - the b25 and b28 both outperform the m50 lower in the rev range (but a 4.10 diff sorts that ha ha), you can make a few changes to all of them to acheive what ever it is you want to achieve.

the M50 is 192bhp which is the same as the M52b28.

A manual conversion is simply the best mod for any of these engines and in that form you will not be dissapointed by any of them. In my veiw deciding between them is like splitting hairs and is all down to your application.

I had a similar issue with the camshaft sensor on the m52b28 similar symptoms but intermittent - the diagnostic machine found nothing when the car was going fine so I had to drive it straight to an auto electritian when it appeared and the diagnostic found a fault with the cam sensor - replaced at huge expense from BMW and problem all sorted.

if the smoke is blue then it is oil burning, could be valve seals but if it is heaps of smoke continuously I would suspect other problems, the only way to check I guess is to pull the head off. You will then know if the gasket is a problem and you can then turn the engine over by hand and get a feel for what else is going on.

Normally there is a little metal tag that is attached to the rear cover by one of the main bolts, these are normally pretty rusty but will have the ratio stamped on them, the other way is to mark the out put shaft and the diff case then turn the drive shaft and count how many turns of the out put shaft to one turn of the drive shaft - crude but will get you pretty close, its easy to tell the diff from a 4.1 to a 3.46 for instance.

Yeah one to one fifth on that box you have - I would go with the 2.93, 3.25 would haul ass though!

do you mean top or bottom end? bottom end relates to bearings , rods, crank , pistons etc and if it is smoking as bad as you say then I would say you have some issues here. A blown head gasket could show some of the following symptoms, water in oil or vice versa, loss of power, poor idle, steam from exhaust, obvious over heating. From the symptoms you describe I would suggest that your issue is a bottom end one, this will cause overheating also as if something is crook friction will normally increase burning oil and raising temps. Is your coolant just rusty brown?

I think a head gasket would be the least of your worries from the sounds of it, I would drain the oil and have a look for either water in it or bits of your engine!!, flush your cooling system until the water is clean, replace the oil with some cheap stuff, go for a drive then inspect both again, will give you a better picture of what is going on. Any strange knocking noises from the engine? Compresssion test will also give you some info.

Good luck

On my E46 it was an absolute bastard to get to - I got access via the drivers foot well up under the dash towards the centre of the car, had to remove a couple of covers from memory. Not sure if the 34 is the same.

gidday Gus, Nope didn't try for long though, I decided to race it in the winter series, This car just goes and goes - ultra reliable and just keeps getting quicker, finished third overall for the series, no race wins but a couple of very close seconds, feilds of up to 30 cars (some of those were hq's though haha) found myself in the fastest half dozen all series. For someone wanting a great car that could still benefit from a bit of cash spent on it this is perfect.

I am looking for a sunday drive now that I can share with the family - so will consider trades (240z, 2002tii ,m325 etc etc)

price also ono.

Cheers

For sale again guys

E30 m50 race car - ready for the open class meeting here at manfield will also consider lease to serious prospective buyer for the weekend.

Best race lap at Manfeild currently 1.22.2 (compare this with other cars after the meeting) heaps of further potential and a better driver could get it in the 20's

I will put up some pics later on, for details phone.

$15k

0299536749

Cheers

Jonty

A press is fine if you can get it to your subframe or the other way round I just burnt mine out with a gas torch, if you replace with poly items or similar then you often do not need to press them in I didn't with the powerflex ones, it is a whole lot easier to drop the whole frame diff etc included - it is a good few hours to do the job by yourself with a hoist though, i couldn't get the bloody subframe to drop out took a bit to work it loose.

I bought three for the wilwood pedal box I paid about $15 each from memory cheap as chips, from BM Warehouse in Hammers

Had the same issue withthe racecar, hex bolts had come loose, tightened them up - noise still there and really apparent going around left hand corners - turned out to be the CV it was trashed, car is lowered somewhat and the angle on the half shafts is probably contributory. I would still pull of the CV boot and have a look see, you will see if it is worn.