javlin

Hi,

As some of you good people know, we have had to replace the engine in our E 34 due to overheating.

Part of this process involved replacing the gearbox wiring loom which became damaged while removing the engine and box.

We have put everything back together and have tried to start it. It spins freely but does not fire. The battery is new. We have checked for spark and there is none. Fuel is also not pumping through. (We have added more fuel to no avail) . Given that both the fuel and ignotion systems have failed simoultainously we are wondering if the computer is at fault.

I have read the appropriate "sticky" which deals with the two systems separately.

Any hints greatly appreciated, before we haul the thing off to a mechanic!

I sincerely hope for you that your waterpump is not on its way out. Our's failed recently resulting in a major engine overhaul. The car had been using some water which set off alarm bells but the fault wasn't traced to the waterpump until too late. The pressure blew a hose on our car.

Thanks Brent,

Really appreciate all the help that you have given us with this project.

Hi, The heater on my 535i only works on two speeds. Full bore or off. It has a variable speed switch. I have been told that the resistor probably needs to be replaced. Can someone please point me to a parts diagram which shows exactly where this little sucker is. Also what would be a reasonable price to pay for a replacement? Will a non BMW part do the trick?

I have looked on the web and have found a youtube video which claims to show this proceedure but my anti-virus protection doesn't like it

I have removed the centre consol to expose the wiring. Any help appreciated thanks.

Thanks for that. Appreciate your taking the time to reply.

Hi, We would appreciate some help please. We are removing the wiring loom for the auto gearbox. Part of this loom attaches to the kickdown mechanism which is under the accelerator pedal. We cannot work out how to remove the pedal. We have looked at an exploded veiw of parts and have also consulted Haynes and Bentley manuals. Thanks.

Hi Simon sorry about the big file. Still learning here

resized images

Our engine swap woes continue! When we removed the engine we failed to take into account the transmission plug. The cable stretched and the wires were pulled out of the plug. We need an 8 pin female plug 15mm in diameter and 70mm long with about 500mm of cable atattched. See pics (if I can get them to load). We have tried Mosens, Eurppean Autos, and somone with the number 07 8466671 (didn't write down who they were) no luck yet . Any help appreciated. Thanks guys.

Edit: Please resize your photos.

How does one edit photos to resize them? (sorry this is completely out of my league)

Our engine swap woes continue! When we removed the engine we failed to take into account the transmission plug. The cable stretched and the wires were pulled out of the plug. We need an 8 pin female plug 15mm in diameter and 70mm long with about 500mm of cable atattched. See pics (if I can get them to load). We have tried Mosens, Eurppean Autos, and somone with the number 07 8466671 (didn't write down who they were) no luck yet . Any help appreciated. Thanks guys.

Edit: Oversize photos removed. See below

Have reassembled the rocker shafts with all the rockers, springs etc and have found the back exhaust shaft is moving back in its bearings, leaving a gap in the middle. Of course the rebates in the shaft for each head bolt dont line up or the rockers. The other three shafts were a firm fit, needed to be drifted into place. The offending one was able to be pushed in by hand. There is nothing in the book or diagrams to indicate a packer. There wasnt one anyway when I dismantled the shafts. I would guess the shaft is worn, but as it does not need to move in the head that doesnt make sense. Can I use a packer or locktite to keep it in place? Any thoughts much appreciated.

Hi all, we are at the point of putting the cylinder head back on after planing head new rings etc. The Bentley manual says to use new head bolts. How critical is this? Has anyone reused the old bolts and not had any problems? thanks.

Brilliant! thanks Brent and Glenn. I searched the web for quite a while looking for a diagram like that - no luck. Will bookmark that site. Looks like they are #22. Thanks again. Much appreciated.

We are at the stage of reassembling the valves after having the head planed. We are struggling to remember where a tiny sprung 3/4 ring goes. Can post a picture if that helps. There are twelve of them so presumasbly one for each valve. Any help much appreciated. Thanks

Got hold of Barry at Euro Marketing this morning. He said that customs would add GST to the US one which I hadn't taken into account. When this and the paypal costs were added to the US one, Barry's price seemed pretty good. So we accepted it. Thanks for the lead Brent. Appreciate it. Cheers. (oh and the US dollar is 64c now which added to the US one.)

Did you get this work done? I've got the same problem and am wondering what it will cost to fix. Thanks

I got a quote from Euro Italian for $465 plus GST less BS discount of 15% which I work out as $523.13 minus $78.47 discount equals $444.66. The Elring Klinger headset in the US is US$135.00 plus US$35.00 postage equals US$170 divided by 68 x 100 equals $250.00 NZ. Even if we round up the NZ quote to $450.00 to allow for postage, the US one come out at $200 NZ cheaper! The cheapest head set I have discovered here is $280.00 from Supercheap. I have no idea which brand that is ...

Hi all, I been comparing prices for a new head gasket set for my 89 535iA and have found a headset in the US for a very reasonable price. The manufacturer is Elring Klinger. Has anyone any knowledge of the quality of these? Thanks.

Hi can anyone direct me to a source [other than BMW agents ] for a new water pump for an 89 535i M30. I have been quoted $156.00 for one which sounds a bit dear....thanks

m30 engines are easy, As Brent said pull motor and box together.

The loom can stay on the motor , Just disconnect it from the Ecu end, fuse box and the battery . Leave loom on the motor and re use the donor engines loom if its there. Or swap the loom over while engine is out of car if new engine has no loom , Makes it alot easier.

to stop damage to the engine bay lip use a trolley jack under car to lift gbox untill you get the correct angle to get it out without touching car. (you will need car up on 4 stands to do this) also set your engine hoist to around .5 ton the engine is only 150kgs and the box maby 50kgs. You will need the extra length from your hoist for lifting the box and engine together.

Thanks for your tips. Where is the best place to lift from?

The engine mounts look too far forward to get the weight balanced. Also are there any gearbox mounts? I cant see any, unless they are right on top. We took off the crossmember under the drive shaft universal, and undid the uj, but no sign of mounts. Also separated the selector change cable. Anything else we have missed? Thanks

Hi, I'm new to this forum. My 535i's water pump failed which resulted in blown radiator hoses, blown headgasket and, we think, a piston has ben dragged. (nasty deep knocking sound at front of engine when it runs) . We have obtained a second hand engine and are planning to do the swap ourselves. We are old car enthusiasts and have lots of mechanical experience but have not worked on anything this modern before. I am wondering if anyone who has done this already could share any tips, known problems to look out for etc before we start. We have the Haynes manual. Thanks.

W are working on unclipping the wiring at the moment and are have problems with a thick cable which starts underneath the loom on top of the cylinderhead and travels behind the manifold to a screw junction. This junction is too big to thread back up to the top of the head. We cant see how it is joined at the loom end. Any help appreciated thanks.

I Agree depending on what your donor motor is swap it with trans attached makes it alot easier

just watch out for damage from your sump when putting it in bent my lip on my engine bay, i was fine to i got it most of the way in and had to jimmy it the rest of the way

next time i will be carefully doing it as it will be worth alot more dough lolz.

have fun and dont worry easy as pie

Hi the replacement engine is exactly the same as the one coming out. ie both 535i. Thanks for the tip.

You can download the PDF Bentley service manual Nick has put up.

Right click on it then go Save Target As... It is a biggish file at 61MB.

Thanks for that. I tried left clicking on it before you posted your message and nothing happened. I then did a search on the net and found it and downloaded it.

Hi and welcome to bimmersport.

Nice cars you got (including the e34 at the top of the list of course!).

Thanks for the welcome

Several people have mentioned this as a very useful resource. I just did a google search and discovered that it can be downloaded from bimmerwerks.com. Just enter "E34 Bentley Service manual" into google and scroll down to the bimmerwerks entry. If you click on that site it tells you how to download it.