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Guner

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Posts posted by Guner


  1. That's not correct ... they are $77.63 incl Gst

    I can also do genuine for $60 incl Gst & fitting

    Thanks for the replies guys - I ended up buying one from Jerry Clayton's for $66 incl gst - Guy said he'd put it through at trade for me which is good pr for them as I'm looking for a newer bimer soon. Luckily the original rubber grommets were still ok.

    It's now a plastic badge which looks slightly different to the original but looks great on the car.

    BTW - $60 is a great deal!


  2. Hey, that's probably the best consumption 8.6L/100km, somehow it looks too low to be city driving or is it 8.6km/Litre which equates to 11.6Ltr/100km

    It's too hard for me to drive like a little old lady, i just use 95 rather than 98 unleaded :)

    lol yeah sorry - it is 8.66km / Litre ;)


  3. When you turn your AC on, does the AC compressor clutch engage ? If it doesnt, the fan wont work either. The AC system may have a leak or be low on gas and the pressure switch on the receiver dryer wont allow it to work.

    Also, do you get all the interior fan speeds on your climate control panel ?

    I'd also note that before you start spending money, get it checked professionaly... and yes the AC system can be scanned on an E46 for fault codes to indicate where the fault lies

    Cheers Glenn - yeah you can hear the AC switching on and the fan speeds do work inside the car.

    I actually had all the AC repaired about a month ago - the Aux fan had died which caused the compressor to burn out.

    The AC will work at the moment when the car is in motion, just not when stationary.

    I'm surprised the Aux fan has died again so soon tho.


  4. Hiya, I posted an earlier thread called AC Fan not working, (e46)

    It looks like the electric fan is also for when the car overheats.

    Basically I got it all fixed a while ago and it's died again. Any suggestions of what might have gone wrong with it?

    I've checked the fuses in the glove box.

    Any help greatly appreciated.


  5. After much pain from my AC burning out because the AC fan at the front of the car died, and all being replaced - I noticed it's not running if the car is idling with the AC on.

    Should the giant AC fan always be spinning if the AC is switched on?


  6. If all that element (or most) is gone then it is a waste of time trying to repair it. As I said above - this glue is ONLY intended for minor damage, eg - a cut or nick in the element.

    You will never be able to replicate the resistance of the original element by creating a long line of repair glue.

    Only option in this case - replace the screen - make sure you get a good one.

    You can test one out of a vehicle with the method I mentioned - apply 12v across the element (either polarity) & test each element as I described

    Yeah I was afraid of that - what do you reckon a screen from a wreckers would set me back?


  7. Rang Repco, yep I'm gonna buy some of that copper glue.

    Had a close look at the inside of the demister - you can see the tan line goes all the way across but the silver lining (inside window side) that the current goes through has been almost completely stripped off.

    Gonna be fiddly as hell painting that much of this stuff on.

    The guy at Repco reckons you mask it then paint it but the line is so fine I doubt it would look that great.

    :mellow:


  8. As said - look closely for probably a cut through the element/s.

    You can buy from the likes of Repco an element repair liquid - a metallic based glue. This is only suitable for fixing minor damage - likely in your case.

    An easy test is: with a test light, check (carefully - not to damage) each element starting at supply end & working along the element. A working element will show a diminishing voltage as you move along, a broken element will show full voltage (open circuit) until you reach the break, after which - no light.

    Fantastic - great advice thanks.


  9. Please guys, the guy wants some real advice, not you're half-witted attempts at humour! I've deleted them.

    Post up the measurements for front and rear taken from the centre of the wheel to the lip of the guard.

    Interesting - I hadn't actually measured em before.

    It's only the diff of two cms (RH Rear 36cm RH Front 38 - LH Rear 37cm LH Front 38)

    But visually it looks like more.

    If you floor it, the front lifts a bit, not too bad tho - is this normal for stock shocks?

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