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HamishNZ

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Everything posted by HamishNZ

  1. HamishNZ
    Ahh thanks. I was wondering why it's so different from the medium case E34 525i diffs I have. The mounting is completely different but I assume the internals are interchangeable.
  2. HamishNZ
    8 - 2 on each side?
  3. HamishNZ
    $100 Part Number: 1212 881 3.46 Ratio 188mm Medium Case From a 1991 E34 520i manual The current backing plate ear is partially broken (see photo) However there is enough to still mount if you wish Would suit someone who wanted to change ratio or a spare to weld locked Shipping: North Island: $50 South Island: $100 Cheers
  4. HamishNZ
    $300 ZF 5HP-18 (A5S 310Z) Part Number: 1 219 957 From a 1993 E34 525i (M50 engine) Only 150,000kms - Can Confirm with Odometer & Carjam Good Condition - Smooth Shifting Serviced: New Filter & Gasket Torque Converter Included Can also include Trans Computer, Trans Fluid Cooler & Pipes + Shifter Mechanism & Cable if buyer wishes Was found on the following vehicles: 3' E36 (11/1989 — 07/1995) 5' E34 (01/1989 — 06/1996) Weight: 84.4 kg Shipping: North Island: $100 South Island: $200 Cheers
  5. HamishNZ
    Is the standard E34 M50 O2 sensor wideband or narrow? (I'll need a wideband sensor for AFR gauge) Since the AFC only 'mimics' the MAF's signal with a percentage in/decrease, eg. AFC set to +10% = DME signals injectors spray 10% more fuel, should I then 'tune' it at WOT? Assuming this is the most leanest throttle position, I can handle a slightly rich cruise (I hardly cruise) AFR: I think I'll aim around 12:1 then lower it to 11:1 as RPM increases (rich reduces temp/detonation) On the back of the AFR module it has: TYPE SELECT (8 switches up or down) & CAR SELECT (1-9) I can't find any info on what settings I should use.. Here's the manual: http://www.kcar.org.hk/docs/safc_gen1o.pdf
  6. HamishNZ
    Cheers crunchy, so use an Apexi SAFC with an air fuel ratio gauge to get the ratio close to 14.7? Are the older ones any good with the analogue dials? 1600rpm incriments seems alot/inaccurte, although i assume it makes a curve with the given values. Here's one going cheap on trade me: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-923648647.htm
  7. HamishNZ
    100km/h sits around 3200RPM, 92km/h @ 3000RPM. So I usually cruise just under a hundy, which everyone seems to do these days anyway.. plus most of the 100km zones where I live have been reduced to 80kms. I don't mind though, it makes 2nd gear very snappy which suits my driving lol (keep it to the hills) Wish I had the money for a turbo like yours crunchy, what a beauty! idk how you're headgasket survives, mine blew @ 180,000kms I've seen a few Toyota SC14 Superchargers for a couple hundy bucks; contemplating whacking 1 where the air conditioning compresser was. Apparently it'll make about 6PSI with the standard pulley which will be fine with standard injectors/ECU? Bit worried about it running lean tho, maybe use a resistor or something to trick the MAF sensor into thinking the air is colder/more dense than it really is, so it will compensate by squirting more fuel? I think I saw someone on here with a similar project, would be great to have a template of some sort to copy the mounts. I'm thinking you'd want some kind of tensioner so you could ensure the belt doesn't slip on the supercharger.
  8. HamishNZ
    *update* I used a getrag 250 from a 93 E34 520i I used the front half of the manual driveshaft with the rear half of the auto driveshaft so I could keep the auto diff - because the wreckers broke the mount on the manual diff with their forklift.. rookies lol
  9. HamishNZ
    I've removed the cable from the selector lever. The lever moves fine, however the cable seems to be really clogged up. It becomes stiffer the more you retract/extend the cable (closer you get to P) and won't go into P as I don't want to put any more force into it. Any ideas? I'll give it a spray with WD-40 and see what that does. The cable may have been connected to the wrong side of the selector lever so may be a little bent? Doesn't appear to be bent though, would that stuff it? Would my selector cable from my wrecked 94 e34 525i with ZF 5HP-18 trans fit my 93 525i Jatco A5S 300J trans?
  10. HamishNZ
    Aaaahhh but of course.. I couldn't pull it out, had to lever it. That's everything mechanical out of the way. Now just the harness, hopefully it all marrys up!
  11. HamishNZ
    Changed the flex plates. One of the threads on the torque converter was cross threaded, managed to re thread it using an exhaust manifold stud ha. Torque converter is bolted on! Now the driveshaft doesn't appear long enough? wtf It doesn't have a flex disc, it has 4 studs that insert into holes in the output flange from trans. The studs are meeting the flange but are not protruding through to do nuts up??? Is the trans flange supposed to slide out or something? the driveshaft length is fixed right? What's going on?
  12. HamishNZ
    By 'driveplate'' i meant flex plate. Slightly varying flex plates is the only solution i can think of. I'll remove trans once AGAIN tomorrow and change flex plate; should get away with leaving engine on mounts. I'll let ya know how it goes, cheers.
  13. HamishNZ
    Car #1: NZ new E34 525i M50 with ZF 5HP-18 Automatic Transmission. Car #2: Japanese import E34 525i M50 with Jatco A5S 300J Automatic Transmission. Goal: Put engine #1 into car #2. Problem: I can't align torque converter with driveplate to put the x3 17mm bolts in. It appears to be aligned rotationally (left to right) but it looks like the torque converter hole is a fraction of a mm too low. I've already re-installed trans to make sure torque converter was all the way in. I assume both the drive plates are the same? The shaft on the torque converter lthat goes into the driveplate looks slightly diferent, but i wouldn't think this is the reason? Any ideas???
  14. HamishNZ
    Hi my fellow NZ'ers! I am wishing to convert my auto E34 525i with the M50B25TU (Vanos) into a manual. I am finding it difficult (not suprisingly) to find the getrag 250 + conversion kit that came standard on the late model 525i's with the M50 engine. The earlier models with the M20 engine have the getrag 240's or 260's (or zfSG310?) i believe and these seem to be more available. I've heard that the M20's gearbox bolts up perfectly to the M50 but due to the M50's tilt the box is on a 10degree tilt and therefore doesn't align with the gearbox mounts. Is anyone familiar with the process required to modify the mounts to suit the older gearbox? Or even better, if you can buy these pre-made? Oor even BETTER, does anyone have a maual conversion kit for my M50 E34? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Cheers
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