SavageXii

Turns out an issue with the PCB on the openlabs cable.

Hi All,

After someone who has a working ADS/DIS set up near wellington or auckland region that can help me compare my set up with theirs, and see if its my car or my cable or my pc/software combo thats the issue.
Will offer beers or something in return

Backstory: I bought myself a Dell D630 with Windows Xp, Have all the software set up, Openlabs cable, the guy who provided the software says the software and networking is correctly configured, im trying to scan my e34, but im not getting any progress on dis or inpa. I get battery and ignition lights on my open labs cable, but not on inpa, and any actions in inpa or dis say "No control module found".

Goal: Find the module responsible for infrared keys and re-enable key pairing, plus "scan" car for issues.

Anyone else have an ADS interface in wellington/auckland not far from the highway in between.

3 hours ago, dirtydoogle said:

I have ADS interface set up in Hawkes Bay that should talk to it. 

Ill send you a PM

5 hours ago, BM WORLD said:

whats the actual issue with the seat 

I believe the seat and mirror control unit has failed, as the mirror and seat controls have reversed.

24 minutes ago, NZ00Z3 said:

Try the Foxwell NT520 BMW scanner,  Claims to be compatible with the E34 and OBD1, see below review

http://www.foxwellsupport.com/foxwell-nt520-bmw-mini-diagnostic-scan-tool-feedback/

Hi Murray, I think it needs to be DIS + a laptop, so I can change settings in the body modules, dont think the scanners can do that

Hi all,

Wondering who has a solution to scan the older BMW's, I've done some research online but can't seem to find much info about it, maybe im not typing in the correct key words.
But after a ADS/DIS for the E34 that preferably works on newer laptops as mine doesn't have a com port. Or is there anyone between Auckland and Wellington that is able to diagnose an E34 aside from the dealership? Not just a "Code reader".

Also side note, has anyone repaired the memory electric seat module in these before?

Thanks!

11 hours ago, kiwi535 said:

i cant say sorry.Google some of your symptoms there are still some very good e34 resources and dedicated forums.

I've had quite a extensive look online, turns out I think it was a problem with the LKM, the new one I thought was good turned out to be better (no check control spasms) but retained the headlight and dimmer problem so I thought I had eliminated the lkm issues but sadly not!

Would be good to see a perfectly soldered LKM, as some of the pins are bridged I dont know if that is normal or if they got hot enough to reflow and bridge

It all seems to be related, as after flickering the headlight came back on, and happens on command by putting in reverse with brakes held on or indicating while driving.
Is there a common ground or shared circuit for headlights/indicators/brakes/reverse/dimmer?

13 hours ago, turbolizard said:

LKM is definitely a possibility with this weird behavior.

Had all the Check control errors for all the lights, put in a used lkm and those went away, but had the same issue with the old lkm, and still present with the seemingly good lkm

13 hours ago, Eagle said:

Does it change at all with revs or when driving, what it does do with just park lights on? Battery good and cable grounds clean and tight? LKM under the hood and dimmer switch on the dash can play up causing weird light behavior

Quick check of the wiring under the steering wheel, seat and boot\bootlid and reseatiing plugs and modules doesn't hurt

 

Don't believe its rev or driving related just when other lights eg brake and indicator come on, new battery, will check battery ground and boot ground and try to find headlight ground, not sure where the others ground.

Hi all,

Bought a new car, next day driving out the driveway, noticed my driver side headlight was out but park lights were still on, thought it was just a bulb, however the background lighting to the dash/cluster and radio/obc/ac controls started to flicker, leaving the cabin pitch black. after flickering back on, my headlight came back as normal. Now I notice when Indicate or brake or reverse I can make the flickering happen on purpose.

Does anyone have idea's on what to check or have stumbled across this problem before? My guess is a loose wire in the light switch or a bad ground or a bad fuse/relay?

*Car is running now*

Problem was a faulty ecu plug!

have the car cranking now, but not starting. I was sure I had 12v switched at the fp relay a few days ago, but now im not getting switched 12v at the fp relay, nor the main dme relay. but i do have constant 12v at fp, which works when bridging, and two 12v constants at main dme. Where can I go from here to find out why im not getting switched 12v?

On 7/10/2018 at 7:19 AM, Drea//Mer said:

if installing an older non-ews motor into an ews car it will only fire the cylinders if one of the wires is cut on the round 25 pin connector (you also need the dme from the older engine)

From an old post of mine:
 

 

Even if you have the original key, ews system, everything factory standard apart from the engine loom plug and play? I guess if it doesnt start ill just cut the wire. Cheers for the info

On 7/10/2018 at 11:15 AM, BM WORLD said:

you need all the parts off the donar m50b25 car , engine loom , ecu , maf all the engine sensors etc ,

is the car manual or auto , if auto , then they may be issues with the  trans loom and trans computer wiring etc

then you will need to bypass the ews starter wires at the ews box so it will crank etc . proably easier to just buy a proper engine , can be a m50b25tu or m52b25 etc , then you can just use all your original electrics etc

and I have the m50b25 engine, loom, ecu, and all sensors etc it was from an auto into an auto but am doing a manual conversion at the same time. What does the EWS talk to in the engine bay that lets it know its not longer the original engine anyway to retain that? Cheers


*Edit: yeah will need to bypass ews as the dme is gone "Duh", also have a very strange plug ill upload a picture of later if anyone knows what it is. and brent i might need a m50 cluster if this one doesnt work thanks.

Hey guys,

I have a 328i with a blown motor, and sourced a very low km m50b25 non vanos engine, will the x20 from the m50b25nv engine have the same pin out as the later model x20? and if so is it a matter of installing the new motor and plug and play. or will EWS play up?

Hi there,

If anyone has done the m50 conversion, I'm not clear on which:

Gearbox crossmember to use
Shifter/Linkage Combo
Driveshaft Combos eg: Full e36 one or half rear from e30 auto with front half of e36 manual with e30 hangar bearing
exhaust solution - something about the headers have to be cut or modify the steering column ?

I don't want to cut and weld anything - keeping everything stock as possible.

I have a M50B25 non vanos paired with a 5spd getrag from a 5 series m50.

Also eventually I will be after an LSD if anyone has a low ratio one for sale reading this.

and does anyone know of any M3 CSL style'd wheels from 14" to 17" in the 4x100 stud pattern

Thanks

I have a m40b18 getrag 240 box but cannot find a conversion kit from auto to manual.
Does anyone have or know anyone with one?

Also are there any implications on using a m10 conversion kit and simply replace the box with a m40 box/clutch/flywheel.

Will need a Shifter/Linkage Master/Slave Driveshaft and Gearbox Mount?

Looking for some m5xb25 conversion guides for my e30. Surely there are some around here?
which section would they most likely be in a had a quick squiz and searched but nothing showed up.

Thanks

Driving around I keep hearing these knocking sounds like metal on metal, i pressed down on the shocks by hand on each side and it sounds like thats where its coming from. cars history suggests it has monroe shocks and new top hats, any suggestions on how to fix?

are they not installed correctly? not fitting perfectly or some rubber bump stops failed or something?

whats the difference between a e30 325 getrag 260 and a e34 535 gearbox?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD12&mospid=47382&btnr=23_0289&hg=23&fg=05 e34
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1412&mospid=47283&btnr=23_0293&hg=23&fg=05 e30
would the be swappable or the components inside be compatible? and whats the difference?

I have a pfl e30 it has two blue two yellow wires

Two brown black different sizes and

Then it has two more whites different sizes

Amp and aerial?

It has radio prep option

I know two of the wires are battery power and earth, I know one is ignition power. I don't know what the ignition earth is, I don't know what any of the earths are and I can't get any sound to come out so can anyone explain this, I know blue should be right side and yellow is left side. Running new wires isn't an option since I know how amazing you can set up sounds on factory wires

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/48674-e30-pfl-radio-wires/#entry525038

Posted this in wrong section can anyone give me insight?

What's the yellow red yellow black do blue red blue black I think those are speakers live and ground

Then two brown blacks -

Red green

Red grey

Violet grey

Small white

Fat white

Just got a e30 guy said professional installed a new radio but he soldered two speaker earths together and spliced a red green and then didn't use the splice lol and had amp rem and amp something else connected to factory speakers so installing a new system now and the colours don't match up in the book and speaker wires are different colours from the speakers then center console