handgrenade

Thanks for your responses.

Apologies if I used the wrong nomenclature. 

The guy is looking for an agent who will help him sort it all out. He doesn't mind paying whatever fees as long as they are reasonable, he just doesnt have the time or logistical knowledge perhaps to sort it himself. So if anyone knows a decent 'agent' or logistics coordinator who deals with this magnitude of car parts, then it would be great to get a contact reference!

Cheers!

Hi All

Asking on behalf, does anyone have any contacts for an importer who has the licenses etc to bring in car parts (total worth 10k+) into New Zealand from the UK?Preferably someone who is well established etc. A colleague wants to bring in a bunch of MG? parts for some kit cars and old cars he has - the parts are heavy (like diffs and gearboxes etc) and is happy to pay for shipping, taxes and customs etc due to that the parts are so much cheaper from the UK and also Brexit helping the exchange rate.

 

Thanks!

 

very clean car, looks the best without the signage IMO

sits really well and has a good solid stance - and who doesnt love a stroker!! 

 

Loving the woodgrain!! Looks very tidy

57 minutes ago, 1BMF said:

I have to admit when my mate got a type r integra I was impressed with the power out put and the way it just took off when every thing else was on red line . 

Many years ago now and no where up to the cars that this thread was started about.  

I went down the Mitsubishi MIVEC route instead of VTEC. And I did enjoy running that little 1.6L out to 8200rpm!! Much more linear I believe than VTEC though .. 

 

3 hours ago, gjm said:

Just once, though, eh?

I actually have never experienced VTEC. I don't feel like I'm missing out 

Something a lot of people overlook is that they use the best tuning software or aftermarket engine management computer out there, but end up with not many people with the experience to get the most out of it. 

This is the reason why I stuck with 'old' tech of an Apexi PowerFC over new EMS units due to that most tuners know the unit and can use it fast and easily and I can get a retune or adjustment almost any time and anywhere . 

*most* aftermarket maps are pretty safe. The N54 is a very strong engine - you can do a quick search online to find the numbers people (especially in the states) are pushing on a stock block N54 - 700hp+. Of course if you are running a bad tune, you'll kill any engine. So yes, definitely get it done by someone reputable. 

4 hours ago, M3AN said:

Unfortunately it looks like it was washed with steel wool.  Engine bay could do with a vacuum too!

I think if you're asking that sort of money for a 20 year old car it should be properly detailed before being photographed and advertised.

 

With the amount of image correction on the photo set .. not sure why the seller decided to include that particular pic which showed the paint condition!  Especially since the rest of the photos were edited in such a way to remove that level of detail.

34 minutes ago, gjm said:

Closest I've got to a RS6 is the B7 RS4 Avant. 4.2 V8 with an 8000rpm redline.

The S65 is awesome. So easy to drive.
And if you get bored, it's so easy to tune, too. 600hp can become up to 1000hp, but the torque stays limited to 1200Nm to save the drivetrain from destruction. Apparently it can be beefed up to withstand 1600Nm, which the engine is happy to deliver.

The B7 RS4 is a great car!! have been considering one.. the noise from that n/a V8 factory tuned to the edge, factory 6spd manual transmission is the only option. And it is a great looking machine with the huge guards and factory 19" rims or optional 20". 

But it would mean I'd have to lose a car (can't justify 3 cars!) and I can't let go of the M3 or the Evo  #firstworldproblems

38 minutes ago, HaNs said:

4.6 to 100 in the v10

3.9 in the new 4.0L v8

 

 

Love the new tech of the hot v twin turbo system. most euro v8s have incorporated the same tech, bmw's v8, mercedes as well .. all in the 4L range 

 

The s65 mercedes is a powerhouse! what was that .. a 6.0L v12 biturbo and rwd? Crazy!

ECU map will net you 50-60hp .. without any other mods. stock is fast .. feels like a larger displacement engine .. with a remap, brings on the torque stronger. much more fun! 

but I agree, auckland streets .. stock is plenty of power. that being said, more power is always fun:)

2015/2016 RS6? v8 twin turbo? Or the older V10 twin? 

 

37 minutes ago, 3pedals said:

Pretty basic to diagnose : Smoke hangs about, moisture dissipates, as the "produced cloud" dissipates then it is:       moisture  --  and it is not an E36 or M50 thing.

Cast iron blocks and alloy head combos can develop seepage past the head gasket when cold due to the different thermal expansion  of the two metals.

Had this with the Saab  ( Alloy head /iron block) - a  re-torque  when cold   and torque check  when warm plus a bit of controlled thermal cycling then a cold re-torque to finish cured the Saab.

Alloy block and head combos (M52 and later) warm up at the same rate and tend not to develop seepage unless cooked.

 

suggesting to retorque the head studs to spec? not a bad idea. 

Still if the thermal expansion differential between the alloy head and iron block is causing seeping of coolant into the combustion chamber, then you would notice a drop in coolant level right?

if it is a complete bolt in kit, then it should be fairly easy. The tuning will be the difficult part. I suggest you sort out a tuner first who will do forced induction and whether you'll be running a modified DME or a standalone.

 

edit: I want to do this as well .. 6-8psi at 11.3:1 should net 400whp . 

My car produces a lot of white smoke on start up (especially when cold) compared to my other cars (though given I don't drive it every day and it is not fully garaged (no door on my garage ..) so it could be condensation) 

I had a compression test done a few days ago and the numbers were grouped well with 7% variance max between cylinders and up in 195psi range so the engine seems healthy, no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil. I did lose some coolant the other day from a degraded radiator pipe (the flimsy plastic ones), but that has been sorted and coolant levels are steady. 

Maybe just a BMW/E36 thing?

Did you buy this from a dealership? Just check for factory recall items - from memory of friends who own these cars with the N54 - there are issues with the fuel pump which are covered under factory recall? 

Looks good - have thought about something like this .. easy to modify to Full Bolt On and run 270-300kw at the wheels (pump/e85) but definitely needs some work on the suspension!! The modifications will void your warranty though - a stock ECU remap will give you another 50+ hp which they shouldn't pick up, or revert back to a stock map if something happens .. 

I'm sure there are many other 135/335i owners that can comment. Enjoy your new ride!

Looks good, just less inconspicuous for those who use this at work

haha awesome another 1 of 14 NZ new M3 Evo sedans!! We should start a very small special club.

 

Someone has been playing with the tints and colours in lightroom or photoshop to get the red to pop instead of orange. Can tell in the engine bay shot that clarity was bumped way up (or HDR). 

Looks like e36 m3 prices have gone way up in the past year or two. I remember e36 m3s going for 12-14k, now tm shows 18-21 for an imported m3 and more for a nz new. Nice that the owner has kept the k's down on it (unlike mine :S)

 

e46ti is worse on the eyes@@

Sorry, did I read that right? You're planning a compound turbo setup instead of a twincharged setup? A properly setup compound turbo setup would work really well and if you can fabricate it yourself, will be much cheaper than that 4k supercharger with similar results (very low boost threshold and a huge powerband)

I'd suggest a larger engine as well as your turbo work!

whoa havent posted in here for ages!

just hit 300kms in the m3. ..

idle went bad, stalling out at 500rpm etc .. ICV flooded with carb clean helped but the real problem was after the intake manifold was taken off and a bunch of perished hoses in the factory oil catch can system I believe causing a vac leak. ICV was cleaned, all other hoses checked, and perished one replaced.

ran much better, still misfiring, plugs came out and they were eroded away .. replaced with a freshly gapped set and it is running like new now. Also the throttle position sensor was shot and replaced.

now running really well!

work done by Subirex Automotive which did a great job.

Comp test was done while the plugs were being replaced

185

190

180

195

190

190

psi

not bad for 300,000kms, within 10% (<~7%) between cylinders and still fairly high (factory comp values are reputed differently by which source you use but around but not far off... ).

^ circlip is there, somebody is holding it! Just the older style.

Engine looks clean.

Aha good to know. That's what the team said .. they had never done this on a S50B32 so probably got it a bit confused.

They were a good bunch though! And the results are great.

Here is the nice new (ish) unit installed

Wow what a difference.. I've been driving the car since I've owned it with the junk VANOS in it .. now it's a different machine! More torque and a much more responsive car overall .. from the info online about the materials used .. most VANOS units with any decent kms are not operating as they should. So best to get it checked out!

Also had 7 stripped rocker cover studs which are nice brand new now.

All in the life of a high kms engine!