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darrencnz

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Posts posted by darrencnz


  1. Thanks guys

    One of you bought up an interesting point... My ECU has been modified for some of the changes to the engine... I might get i touch with the guy who did that and see what he says...

    I never even thought about that until someone brought it up..

    Cheers


  2. Handy, my girlfriend is japanese, might just get them from there myself...

    It's one of those topics that can get a range of answers but i just thought there might be someone who can advise a better performing plug for NZ fuel/conditions...

    Darren


  3. Hey guys

    I want to replace my spark plugs in my M52 engine and before i just go and purchase whatever the factory spec ones are, does anyone have any advice on something better?

    Is there another plug that is more suitable for our gas we use here or any other reason to get a different type of plug than the factory spec one?

    Thanks


  4. Hey, am after a couple of these bits...

    I believe the long lower rad support on the left is from a 318ti perhaps?

    post-51521-0-86395300-1467090445.jpeg

    These are for a facelift E30

    Radiator expansion tank clip

    post-51521-0-98417900-1467090529.jpeg

    The electrical plastic conduit for the wiring harness, the piece just behind the strut brace

    post-51521-0-82105000-1467090581.jpeg

    If people have any of these bits, PM me with shipping to Christchurch or can collect in Christchurch.


  5. Hey guys

    I'm looking for a pair of 51mm E30 front hub/strut housing assembly, dont need any of the brake rotors, calipers, suspension, springs etc, i just want the strut and hub section, don't even matter if the wheel bearings are stuffed as i will be replacing them anyway...

    I just want to build my new front end out of the car so i don't have to take it off the road so am not looking to pay top dollar, i'm really looking for someone wrecking out a car perhaps and sold all the rest of the bits...

    Would prefer if it was in Christchurch as freight would be expensive.


  6. Yes. Otherwise ecu will trim wrong wrong cylinders.

    Thanks, yeah i thought i remembered having to check this when i first installed the engine, i think i also recall the front plug coincidentally referred to the front bank too but i am going to double check...


  7. Hey Guys

    Question, i didnt really take much notice when i removed my pre cat O2 sensors and was just wondering if it matters which way around they go. By that, i mean is there a specific front bank and rear bank that nee to be plugged in to the right lugs or does it not matter which way round they go?

    I cant remember when i first put them in and a quick search online has yeilded very little so am assuming it doesn't matter, can someone weigh in on this?

    Cheers


  8. hmm might be keen on the crossmember

    I've gone ZF so am running a standard E30 cross member now, as you can probably figure out, i started with the custom one and failed WOF so my mate modified the standard one for me.

    I would've just certed the custom one but i still had mods to finish before i get cert and needed to use the car as i cant afford to be paying $500 everytime i make upgrades to the car. Pisses me off how the system works, it forces us to sometimes do these things... lol


  9. do i use a E30 manual or E36 manual cross member to bolt a ZF in?

    I used a standard unmodified E30 crossmember to fit the ZF, this took away the "getrag lean" and i used the standard G240 shifter linkages and everything fit sweet...

    Driveshaft needed to be shortened 40mm but the universals needed replacing anyway so i'm just rebuilding the whole driveshaft...

    • Like 2

  10. Hey guys

    Can someone confirm the correct spec oil i should be putting in my 94 M3 ZF gearbox, i've come to the conclusion it should be a Dextron 4 ATF fluid.

    Can someone confirm this is the correct spec oil to use before i go and buy some?

    Thanks


  11. Hey guys

    I have finally put my ZF gearbox into my M52 E30, i have some spares that need to go as i don't really have room to store them, details below, PM me for more info or to buy as i will be putting whatever doesnt sell on trade me at the end of the week but thought i'd give you guys first dibs on anything...

    Getrag 240 5 speed has done 265,000kms is a little noisy but goes fine, changes fine, syncros still seem ok but the kms is getting up there. Gearbox only, no selector linkages or slave cylinder. Took it out on the weekend of a running car - $250 + shipping

    post-51521-0-32677400-1462167711.jpg

    post-51521-0-00229800-1462167730.jpg

    Getrag 240 gearbox crossmember, came out of a facelift 1990 E30 with M52 so will suit M50 conversions as well. This is a modified standard cross member, has passed multiple warrants as it looks original and have never been questioned about it. - $80 + shipping

    post-51521-0-81716200-1462167828.jpg

    Getrag 240 gearbox crossmember, came out of a facelift 1990 E30 with M52 so will suit M50 conversions as well. This is a custom made cross member that will not pass warrants but will certainly pass cert, very strong and well made. - $60 + shipping

    post-51521-0-57831300-1462168043.jpg

    1994 M3/328 5 speed manual gearbox crossmember, as is - $60 + shipping

    post-51521-0-81418200-1462168128.jpg

    Flexshift urethane flex joint/coupler from the Getrag 240 setup, bought this brand new around 6 months ago, paid $220 for it but cant use in the new setup as the yoke is a different size - $120 + shipping

    post-51521-0-36279400-1462168233.jpg

    Brand new E30 standard clutch throw out bearing - $50 + shipping

    post-51521-0-56673600-1462168246.jpg

    PM me for more details or to arrange purchase, happy to sort shipping for anyone out of town or can pick up in Christchurch.


  12. Merit is in connecting the sway bar to the strut

    Gearing is then 1:1 i.e 10mm of wheel/ strut movement means 10mm of sway bar action

    When connected to the lower control arm in the same manner as the E36 then the gearing is approximately 2:1 i.e 10mm of wheel/strut movement translates into 5mm of sway bar action , so the sway bar is effectively running at half power , the other issue is any slop in joints and bushes is a big loss in action

    e.g 3mm bush / joint loss in strut linked systems leaves 7mm bar action whereas control arm link results in 5-3 or 2mm of strut action or basically nothing.

    I converted my 328 to the M3 set up and went from a 26mm bar to a 23.5 and it is 60% stiffer and MUCH faster acting than the old one- pretty sure a few others have done this as well.

    This is really interesting, thanks... I just noticed when replacing all the bushes that the setup seemed a bit of an after thought, especially the mounting system to the lower control arm and where the sway bar mounts to the front cross member... As i mentioned in my original post, its seems the sway bar is pulling the bushing forward as though it doesn't fit correctly...

    Can the M3 system be adapted easily to a non M3 car, to me, it seems that all you would need to do is get the mounting system welded to the strut in the correct position and then get the adjustable linkages (which are easy to source)

    Another benefit i read was that doing it this way, allows you to "preload" or set the sway bar to be parallel to the ground in a lowered car as it would usually be at standard height and therefor would function better... but im no expert...


  13. not sure but i doubt it as the throttle is electronic on this car it is not mechanical

    Oh ok, reason i ask is mine does something similar, i can hear pressure leak out slowly from somewhere, when i press the gas pedal it releases it quickly, i figured it was coming from the throttle body and i just tried the oil cap trick and mine does the same.

    I also noticed a tiny oil leak from the rocker cover recently as i would smell it when it dripped onto the exhaust manifold so have a new gasket but am now wanting to investigate this a bit more now...


  14. Hey people

    Whats the general consensus with aftermarket E30 front sway bars? I replaced the old rubber bushes with urethane ones and noticed the horrible mounting system and the whole setup just looks terrible, its as though the sway bar pulls the bushing and would ideally like a better system.

    Also, what different sizes are available and what are most people using?

    I've seen setups where the sway bar links are connected to the strut rather than the lower arm, whats peoples opinion on this?


  15. I used the E32 double chamber one on our M54B30 race car conversion, standard fitment, excellent brakes. Plenty of stop, 10mm clearance, would recommend it to anyone. We also run with the Mazda front calipers.

    I'm about to do the mazda rx7 brake conversion, how do you find it?

    I'm running the Mk2 booster too, i dont have any experience with anything else but seems to work fine. I had trouble bleeding the rears and the guys at the brake shop said that the rod into the master cylinder might be too long so i shortened it and made it too short. i've now maxed out my adjuster to get a decent pedal but its still not where id like it so and just going to wait till i do the rx7 brakes and sort the new rod out and the adjuster to get it exactly how i want it.

    I found an old pushrod works well for the extender rod as it self centres at one end and if it can handle the forces in an engine, it can handle my foot on the brake.


  16. Hey people

    I recently purchased a ZF box out of a 94 M3 that didn't come with a slave cylinder. I purchased a new one but i have no rod, the guys at the shop gave me one but told me to check the length first.

    Was wondering if someone had a clutch rod from a ZF box that they could measure for me so i can make sure i have a rod with the correct length.

    Chur

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