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Chalkie

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Everything posted by Chalkie

  1. Chalkie
    Wow. I-bus drops to zero volts when key is turned to on (position 2). That is really interesting, as ibus is active-low - usually 12V, then pulled low by devices as required. This means either the main brain has something fruity going on, or some device that’s not on in accessory position is coming on when key is on, and dragging the ibus down to ground 0V. I’ll disconnect ibus line from the brain and see if it stays high on the brain.
  2. Chalkie
    I suspect the issue is iBus-related. Will confirm.
  3. Chalkie
    Update: the steering wheel radio controls don’t do anything when this issue occurs. After 5 or 10 seconds, the display goes blank. Will check ignition barrel switches as recommended above.
  4. Chalkie
    Ok cheers will check that and update.
  5. Chalkie
    If key is in accessory position (1), everything works fine. If key is in ignition position (2), the radio controls (in fact all the controls on the widescreen monitor) stop working, and the display stops updating. If I switch the key back to 1, everything works fine again. Here’s what I’ve tried so far: - substituting the boardmonitor for a presumed good one - disconnecting the Nav (Mk 4) to allow the video module to drive the display - swearing at it Any ideas? Video module? Main computer? Wiring? God hates me? Cheers!
  6. Chalkie
    NB. Is X10117 on E38/39. No idea on E46. Different LKM?
  7. Chalkie
    Wow this is an old topic. Do Euro Homelinks actually exist in that old 3-button E38/E39 unit? Do combo US & Euro units exist also? I suspect rear-view mirror from later model is only way to get that. Cheers, Nathan.
  8. Chalkie
    You're correct, if the Nav is present: it will drive the monitor and the menus. However, if it's not present, then system will 'fall back' to having the video/TV module to drive the monitor & you'll see the older style menus displayed. You'll also get day/night mode if you are just using video/TV module. I wish Nav had that feature.
  9. Chalkie
    I've answered my own question: yes, it should just work. And now it does. Although I had removed Nav, then left car off overnight, I still had black/blank image on my monitor. I then dropped my kids off at school, so car was off and doors closed for hmmm maybe 10 mins. When I got back in, it was working. Am pretty sure this is same behaviour I saw previously. Couple of possible logical answers in there as to how it registers/deregisters units I guess.
  10. Chalkie
    My E38 Mk 4 Nav and widescreen video module work great. 16:9 display. However, when I remove the Nav (doing some troubleshooting) then I only get a black screen on the monitor. Hmmm...I thought that should just work. Any wiring changes required?
  11. Chalkie
    Anybody got any good clear photos of either CiC or NBT maps for NZ? Also, does TMC work in NZ for CiC or NBT BMWs? Thanks!
  12. Chalkie
    Sussed! Nope, and that's the issue. Nav radio module old gen does not have TEL ON on pin 10. It has GAL on pin 10. GAL is active low, so by default is pulled high to 12V (even with key off). Hence my battery flat issue, since I'd connected old gen pin 10 to new gen pin 11. Also, TEL ON does not go up/down with a call (unlike Tel Mute). As others have described, it's 12V if one or both of the following are true: R terminal is on, or call in progress. Only goes off when no call in progress and key off. Works like a charm. Leaves one unanswered question - how come none of the BMW new gen radio retrofit docs mention this? You can't get TEL ON from an old gen nav radio module connector, so you need to run a wire to elsewhere.
  13. Chalkie
    Hmmm, all the WDS diagrams for 1st generation E38 show speedo signal on the old round pins pin #10.
  14. Chalkie
    So what I don't get is this: if old gen pin 10 is GAL, and new gen pin 11 is Tel On, then I would expect to see some of the BMW retro-fit docs for new gen radios mention this, and where on earth would an old-new radio adapter cable get Tel On from? Very interesting stuff, really appreciate all the help on this forum, and can't wait to completely get to the bottom of this. Cheers!
  15. Chalkie
    No handset, car has never had an eject box. I'm not considering connecting TAA to pin 11 of the loom's radio connector, I am wondering if that's what the signal present on the loom already is. It remains high even after I disconnect the BM54 and disconnect the ULF. Weird huh? Edit: @Neal, yeah I will direct from ULF to BM54 and see what that line does. Edit: Right, I think I get it. PIN 11 on New Gen flat pins is not the same as PIN 10 on Old Gen round pins, for E38/E39 with LCD. On old gen, that was GAL (speed). BMW's documents for New Gen state that GAL is now via I Bus. In summary: Pin 10 on old gen is explicitly listed as GAL/Speed Signal in BMW official docs. Pin 11 on new gen is explicitly listed as Tel On in BMW official docs. I must disconnect Speed Signal from my radio, and ensure Tel On from ULF connects to radio pin 11. Thanks guys, much appreciated, I will make the change tomorrow-isn and report findings.
  16. Chalkie
    Hi thanks for reply, yes is the 740 from profile - ex Japan, VIN 7-digit serial DK82078. Replaced 4:3 and Japanese radio, nav with 16:9 and BM54, Mk 4 nav, and added Gen 6 ULF. Wasn't pre-wired for phone, got ULF loom from BImmerNav and wired the round-pins to flat-pins radio adapter myself. Odd thing is my calls via bluetooth work perfectly - can initiate or receive them, can terminate them, audio works correctly, radio mutes OK so the other line TEL MUTE seems to be acting correctly, and green phone call indicator on the 16:9 lights up when on a call. How does it know? I bus messages I reckon, will check. PIN 11 on flat pins is same as PIN 10 on round pins right? I've seen more than one diagram refer to that as GAL (speed signal). I will put a scope on it and check. And to confirm: disconnecting 12V direct from battery to BM54 does prevent the battery from going flat, and my last test did show current through F69. (Fed accessory 12V into both pins 15 & 16 of BM54). Cheers, the adventure continues!
  17. Chalkie
    TEL ON (pin 11) is always on, bit less than 11V though. Is that actually normal in an E38/E39 with board monitor? It remains on even if I disconnect the ULF, the BM54, and the amp (factory, & not DSP). Make me wonder what is asserting that line high. Edit: obviously I'm testing that line at the loom connector. Hmmm, I do wonder about the behaviour of that line, is it just the TAA speedo signal?
  18. Chalkie
    Thanks Neal, you mean via the TEL ON signal? I'm assuming that should be a non-issue once power is off, but it's gotta be something, will check behaviour of that line. Given there's 0 amps through F69 I do think it's something else being kept awake or woken up, but will check everything.
  19. Chalkie
    Now this is odd. I bought a BM54 from eBay. Works 100% OK, except it flattens my battery overnight, so lets say 10 hours. I think I've checked common issues etc, but am somewhat bamboozled. Here's what I know/have checked: Current through fuse F69 is zero, 15 seconds after key off. I haven't monitored it beyond that. Car does appear to be going into sleep mode, 16 minutes after locking car, as I can see gear selector light go off. Only my BM54 does this. I have 4 other radios, none have this issue, even after a week. Disconnecting the BM54 connector prevents this issue. Alternator works great, voltage at battery when running is approx 14.2V, battery charges up again no problems. Nothing else to suggest any electrical problems with car. I see repairers offering BM54 repair service that include for flattening battery issue - don't have any further details. Anyone got any ideas? Must be a good handful of amps to flatten battery overnight, so all I can think of is something 'waking up' periodically, but only when that radio is connected. Considering using the switched 12V to supply the radio too, to see if that makes any difference.
  20. Chalkie
    Anyone had TMC working, ever, with Mk-4 (or any earlier) Nav? My TMC indicator always turns red, I know TMC is broadcast here in Auckland, but I don't know if TMC data for NZ is present in the BMW map CD. Anyone know? Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Chalkie
    Hi there, thanks for that, I did get it sorted. I wasn't holding the unlock button long enough in 1st step of procedure, need to hold it until it flashes rapidly, then continue with rest of steps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Chalkie
    Hi there, sorry for tardy reply, have been in holiday mode. Yeah anything that has the purple and blue connectors on the back would work fine. Mine's like this: http://www.hitechserv.com/images/BMW/bmw%20nav%20back%20e320-22.png Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Chalkie
    My E38's nav voice has gone silent. Mutes the radio as & when you'd expect, but no voice just silence. Would be keen to try someone's else nav in my car for 5 mins, or vice versa, to see what happens. Thanks! Anything I can do in return, or any other members need similar favours, let me know.
  24. Chalkie
    When nav has dropped out, you're probably seeing the output from your video/TV module.
  25. Chalkie
    Hi, I can't re-initialise my 1997 E38's key remote function. I suspect my failed attempted have now blocked the key re-initialise function. Is it possible to unblock that function (e.g. using my CarSoft MI6, or one of the coding tools, or anything else)? My key is the old 2-button infrared type. It is not key #1, it is key #4 according to I-bus messages. I am following the reinitialisation sequence correctly. The battery is good, the infrared LED and the regular red LED are both visibly working. The regular red LED also blinks slowly when I try the re-initialisation sequence, as it should, but the doors don't lock/unlock as they are supposed to. The central locking works through all other methods. The fuel door locks/unlocks as it should. The key starts the car OK (I know that's unrelated to the remote, but it shows the key is recognised). http://s122.photobucket.com/user/pbjy/media/E46%20Lock/E39ReInitializingProcedure.jpg.html Issue began after I removed battery from key for about 30 minutes. Was compounded by a problem with driver's door open microswitch, which is what makes me suspect re-initialisation is now blocked. Driver's door switch now works, and ZKE correctly reports door open/closed status for both front doors. Any help appreciated! Cheers!
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