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E36MSport

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Posts posted by E36MSport


  1. Doing a bit of fishing to see what my car may be worth before selling it. It's a 1996 328i that has the M body kit installed along with the wheels and vader leather seats. Fully resprayed with glass out about 6 months ago, PPG envirobase paint and clear. Fully serviced. BMW limited slip and extra diff. Aluminium flywheel.  Manual conversion. Power everything including rear windows. 212XXX kms. Overall very good condition with a bit of interior wear and unfortunately a noisy throwout bearing. Anyone track sales of these things?

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  2. Hope this is the right spot for this post but I'm trying to source the seals for the external door handles and side marker lights along with some window trim. Anyone know where to source this stuff in NZ? My car is in the paint shop now and prefer not to wait however long it would take from overseas.


  3. Just had the option of a set of 4x 18x8.5" BBS RK's ET39. Anyone know if these will fit well on an E36 and what the recommended tyre size would be? Getting some pretty mixed data from Google. Looks like some guys run them but it's a mixed bag as to what tyre sizes fit and if fender rolling is needed. Prefer not to have to roll anything.


  4. Given the rings can't scratch it and there are examples over 20 years old and done 500,000 km plus, the fear of nikasil and other coated alloy technologies is unfounded.

    The advantages of better heat transfer and lower weight far outweigh urban myths and neurosis - that's why most advanced modern engines use coated alloy technologies.

    Thanks for that. I've been a bit paranoid. What's your suggested path to performance with the M52? I have just been learning some of the tuning software so have the ability to remap the Siemens ECU to suit mods. From what I've looked into the M50 manifold is a bit of a wash for driveability.


  5. Depends on the mods you have done and how they have been done.

    It is easy to get north of 160kW with no internal modes

    180kW is possible with cams and intake modes and a re-map

    None of these make the engine fussy or difficult or unreliable. The advantage of the B28 or B30 over the S 50 Euro is that they run hydraulic valve adjustment, mild lift and are therefore pretty low maintenance.

    The S series engines use solid lifters which are higher maintenance you should be paying about $1,200 a time for a proper service every 10,000km

    Longer term the M52 is a lower cost very reliable option, which is why they are popular for mild tuning .

    Mine is at 168kW at the moment heading to 180 + when I get around to cams which will be triggered by finishing my intake manifold.

    What are your thoughts on the reliability of the aluminium block? Any fears of a scratch in the nikasil and having to find another?


  6. Which S50 US or Euro, perhaps if you outline what you are trying to achieve you might get some useful responses?

    i.e some where north of 160kW or 175kW or at least 200kW ??? and are we talking a real drivers car or just a power brag ?

    Sorry mate. Looking at a euro spec engine. I've done some mod cars in the past and it seems the further from factory you get the more fussy they are. I don't want do deal with random bs however do want a good, quick, spirited ride. I don't really care about resale value. That's why the S50 euro is looking like a good option. Reasonable price + factory reliability and all the power I would gain from messing with the M52.


  7. I've read of a few good results doing this by spacing one engine mount of the other to gain some clearance. Not sure what effect it would have on other things such as oil pick up and cyl head drainage but that's easy enough to figure out.

    Also read into some good options about doing dual 2" or 2.5" out of the turbo instead of single 3" or 3.5". That option seems to fit through the gaps.


  8. Style 66 from a e39 M-Sport is the ticket, good offset and size to run the tyre size you want

    Just having a look at the style 66 staggered and it's showing a 20 & 26 offset. Found some on TM but not thinking that's going to work well being 20 off of stock. Stock being 41.

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/auction-1098979432.htm

    I could be misinterpreting the data but after reading the above posts feel like this contradicts the specs. Any images of this fitment with 225 and 245 tyres on an E36? I've found some stuff on the google but it looks like they're running skinny tyres to fit inside the guards which makes my stomach a bit upset.

    Edit: Just saw 3 pedals post. Agreed. Not an option.


  9. Where are you guys finding these super low priced M3's? Only reason that I'm considering it is because people want moon beams for them and I just want a fun toy. Already have the ZF 5 speed and after looking at upgrades for the M52B28 by the time I get cams, exhaust, tuning and look at a 3.0 rotating assy. I'm over what a second hand S50 cost.


  10. Thanks for that. I already have a 328 that's in great shape. I was debating just selling and buying an M3 which is feasible. My thoughts on buying another car though seem to stumble when I look into what a used M3 will cost + what maintenance will be needed + upgrades. If I buy something else there are going to be a lot of unknowns like clutch, suspension, diff, etc. If I spend that coin on my 328 then I can essentially have a car that will come out like new and spec'ed exactly how I want it. The money that even a cheap M3 demands will get a pretty fair amount of work done to my current toy.


  11. I have picked up an E36 328 coupe and am getting ready to begin some upgrades. This will primarily be a daily driver occasionally seeing the track but not on a competitive basis. I'm pretty set on 17's however am seeing a lot of different opinions on what will and will not fit. Quite happy to stay with a factory M look with a 225 and 245 staggered fit.

    My question is basically around the offset that I need to run the above combo or what other BMW factory wheel sets will fit. For arguments sake let's say 17x8 front and 17x8.5 rear wheel. I figure if I know the required offset I can determine the correct wheel without posting 200 "Will these fit" threads.

    Open to any advice and input as to what size wheels to go after.


  12. Does anyone have any input of the logistics of either building up an existing M52 Vs the cost of just swapping in a known good S50? I'm curious it the cost of building the M52 would outgrow the cost of the S50 and the performance would never really get to the same level. Seems like cams alone are going to be over $1000, then exhaust, then tuning, then intake, then ?$?$?$?$?$?.


  13. Long story short someone in the family introduced our 545i along a stretch of curb and ground the lip down on one of the wheels. I decided to order a set off of a newer 6 series that is the same size and offset. The new wheels came with tyres that are just a bit too big for the front although they look great on the rear, 255 45 R18.

    I was just about to drive it up to the tyre shop to get some new fronts installed and my ABS warning came on along with the tyre pressure monitor. This doesn't really surprise me due to the mismatched sizes front to rear but it got me thinking. If I leave the 255 45 R18s on the rear and go with a 245 45 R18 in the front will I continue to have this light or can it be reset? These would be slightly taller than the factory tyre size of 245 40 R18.

    My preference would be to go with the taller tyre as it looks a lot better on the car however if the ABS cannot be adjusted to compensate for it then I don't really have a choice. Does anyone have any input on this situation or has anyone put a different tyre height on an E60 successfully?

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