BrokeMyWallet

Hi all, I'm auctioning off the parts for my X5 that I have left over (sold the car over a year ago). Was gonna do these as "preventative" maintenance but life got in the way and never got around to it. From what I read many of these parts fit other V8 BMWs (5,6,8 series) but be sure to look up the part numbers on RealOEM. All sorts of parts like control arm bushings, ball joints, oil filters etc. I'm auctioning it off for $1, and looks like there isn't much interest in it so someone will get a bargain. I imported these parts from Pelican/FCP and they've been sitting in a box in my study since then. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/other/listing/3008539269?bof=rf65qCQ3

I need a fix applied on my car. The symptoms are identical, and my build date aligns with what the service bulletin specifies. Using ISTA/d I have confirmed I have the very same fault codes are stored in memory as well. I need someone’s help to do this: https://bmw-worldzz.blogspot.com/2016/05/instruments-door-open-messagechime.html?m=1 Additionally, does anyone know what BMW charges for a “software update” on a car? The car in question is a 2011 135i DCT (N55)

I also need to apply this fix. https://bmw-worldzz.blogspot.com/2016/05/instruments-door-open-messagechime.html?m=1 So those easier to use apps won’t do the job. Need ncs expert, winkfp, ISTA/P etc. I have ISTA/D working so far, was hoping someone could help with the setup of the apps.

Already done. What about the X5?

E53 and E82

Anyone here DIY this? Just wanting to get stuck into it. What kind of cable/software setup are you using? I want to do some simple stuff like code doors to auto-lock on drive off etc. Also want to have a go at applying a fix specific to my car that is causing it to think the doors are open even though they're not. TIA

The gearboxes go bad. Apparently the 5speed goes bad more often than the 6speed. Make sure any prospective cars you go to look at are cold when you see them and test drive. I drove several X5s that would bang and shift hard when cold but this largely goes away when the car warms up. Other than that be sure to have some $ set aside to replace the cheap shitty gaskets and plastic parts that will fail (coolant tank, radiator, power steering hoses etc). If you buy a V8 check that the valve stem seals have been done, without exception. They almost all seem to go bad (symptoms are blowing smoke after a few minutes at idle). Also pull off the vacuum hose and have a nosey inside the brake booster. The seals in the vac pump on the V8 go bad sometimes letting oil into the vac line. The check valve then also fails, allowing for engine oil to get sucked into the booster causing it to fail. It can't be repaired apparently, you have to replace. A new booster isn't cheap. Also removing/replacing booster etc is a big job and you will need to take it to the shop to get it bled - I tried for ages to bleed it at home with but was not able to get it done (even with a pressure bleeder and ISTA/D to cycle the ABS pump to open the valves "bleed procedure"). Also, check the underbody for any signs of coolant leaks near the bell housing. Take a torch and check the weep hole at the front of the engine next to the water pump. If you see coolant your transfer pipe could be failing. Couple hundred in parts, thousands in labour. Basically don't buy it and expect it to be reliable. Get mechanical warranty if so inclined.

If I could go back in time I'd just spend more on a newer model. I don't like spending heaps on an older car, no matter how much money you put into it it's still an older car with that older car feel and many plastic/rubber hard to reach bits that are just about to f**k out. Hindsight 20/20. Edit, or maybe at least a 50i X5 (The Twin Turbo V8) https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/CategoryAttributeSearchResults.aspx?search=1&cid=268&sidebar=1&rsqid=bbf3c9aaed3a45ffb13fdb7e585f29dd&sidebarSearch_keypresses=0&sidebarSearch_suggested=0&14=BMW&15=X5&21=&1=&minPrice=&maxPrice=&13=0&13=0&24=0&24=0&309=0&309=0&54=50i&searchRegion=100 But at the end of the day its the same engine, same shitty radiator and PS system with the same issues.

4.8is? I'd say 14-16 L/100 KM. Exclusively highway driving with no start stops you can get 9L/100km. Combined 50-50 is more like 12 L/100km. But in terms of general X5 ownership, let me put it this way - if you can't afford the fuel, you definitely can't afford the surprise maintenance bills. Even if you DIY, parts are not cheap.

Interesting.. I thought some metal filings are “normal” with any trans. Especially if the pan hasn’t ever been off before.

TemiPete, what were the symptoms of your transmission issues that lead to a rebuild? Mine is a ZF6HP32. Mine is luckily fine, but I can’t spot a trans service in the service history so I’m thinking of dropping the pan and doing the trans oil and filter.

http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3738 Might find this useful. Apparently the gearbox innards are a wear item? The good news is my trans still shifts smoothly and gears don’t “stick”or anything. The rebuild kit (solenoids, gaskets) only runs ~250 USD, I am gonna add it to my project list. ?

Anyone willing to help me out? Ive got an issue that calls for coding to repair. Ive got ISTA-D but not ISTA-P, and from what I’ve read this seems to be a complex procedure plus you need all the software set up which I know is a right pain.. anyone got this all set up and wanna do me a favour? I’m on the North Shore, and the car is a 135i (2011).

I just completed my Coolant Pipe repair. It was a pain in the arse but got there in the end. Took probably 10 hours to sort it. I know it’s a 13 year old car but still, this is pretty “out there”! Check out the condition of the old seal that was leaking. The alternator bracket is leaking, I reckon the guy that sold it to me knew about it and purposely didn’t tell me about it. Private sale so caveat emptor I guess. I didn’t realise I’d be signing up for non-stop repairs like this, but this is the last broken thing as of right now.

Since you own them side by side, is there a significant performance difference between the 4.4 and 4.8?

Also, where do you guys source parts from. I use Pelican Parts, RMEuropean and if I really have to ECS Tuning. Often even with 3 day DHL Express and GST it's 1/3 the price from the dealer, and more importantly they actually seem to have stock which is more than can be said for the dealer. Lots of parts are often "3 weeks ex germany". Ain't no one got time for that! Is there anyone in NZ that sells parts for our cars at a reasonable price? Reputable manufacturers too (Behr, TRW etc)

As far as I can tell this is my first radiator replacement. The OEM unit was branded “Behr” - if I recall correctly they’re an OEM supplier to BMW. No, I don’t have MBI - I like to live dangerously ?

@TermiPeteNZ not good, I thought you guys were exaggerating about the reliability issues but I think I've had just about every "common fault" happen to me on this thing. Luckily the most expensive and time consuming one (valve seals) were completed by previous owner. Since then I have had: - Coolant leak - radiator cracked. Replaced it. Once I replaced the radiator, some o-ring let go near the temperature sensor on the bottom right hand side of the radiator (driver side). From what I can see the rest of the cooling system has been done already (hoses, coolant res etc) - One-way check valve failed between the vacuum pump and the brake booster. Caused brake booster failure from contamination of the diaphragm/seals etc. Had to take the whole thing apart, replace the booster, new fluid. Also replaced the master while I was there. while I was at it I replaced the check valve, took apart the vac pump and replaced both the o-rings with VITON gaskets and not the cheap shite BUNA-N gaskets. Still need to bleed the brakes properly, probably introduced a ton of air into the system. Can anyone give me a hand with this? I've bled a few times but had NO luck (I have working ISTA-D and tried cycling the pump several times with my pressure bleeder attached). - Power steering reservoir leak - replaced the res itself + the shorter of the two hoses, MAN that thing was a bitch to get off without the right tools. Once I solved all that I noticed a puddle of coolant under the car. Opened it all back up again, it's leaking from the weep hole. I am waiting on parts (ordered the Uro parts expanding coolant kit). Waiting on parts. Hopefully this takes care of the "common" issues with the X5 - just in time for summer (almost). Other minor sh*t I need to solve - Rear driver side window very temperamental - Minor oil leak from oil press sensor and alternator gasket bracket. Photo of the X5 in its natural environment attached ?

I believe I was quoted $500 + GST. It comes with the clip and the o-ring (this is a N55 135I). Insane I thought for something that will likely go bust again. You couldn't buy the clip separately. I ordered a replacement clip from an aftermarket "FTC". It cost about $35 landed. I ended up not needing it since I found mine caught in a wiring harness that runs under the charge pipe. I thought I had for sure lost it since it blew off on a back road. Everything was fine one second, the next the engine lets out a reeeeally loud groan ?I pulled over, took a look saw this (see pic below). All fixed now with a metal charge pipe.

Doh... of course it does... thanks guys.

Because I didn't have the right bit at the time, and even if I did I'd need some sort of low profile ratchet head to get at it. Anyway I managed to back it off using vice grips + masking tape! After getting that done I promptly managed to strip one of the bolts on the VanOS Servo motor. Clearly this thing has been apart before, I can see the valve stem seals were done, god knows why they didn't do the valley pan at the same time ?

Hi Guys, My 135i (N55) charge pipe exploded a little while ago. BMW wants $600 for the plastic pipe, so I started looking for aftermarket options. Aftermarket options were just as ridiculously priced - $400-500 NZ. So I jumped on trademe and bought a no-name brand one which was supposed to come with "everything you need to upgrade your factory charge pipe" which in hindsight, may have been a mistake. At the time I bought this pipe, I couldn't find my OEM "clip" (The metal C clip that goes on the pipe that holds it to the throttle body - I actually did ask the seller if he could source one but he couldn't so I ended up ordering one from eBay for ~$40. In the end I ended up finding my OEM clip, which I was happy about. Unfortunately, I can't seem to get this clip to seat correctly. Is this user error or is this not the right kind of clip? I know this is a non-premium part so I am not expecting excellent fit but this thing isn't even close to fitting. I have tried both the clip I got from ebay AND my OEM BMW clip - neither fit. See images below. What is the deal with this thing? Do I need to get a bigger clip from somewhere?

Already done along with valve stem seals Also I’m currently working on removing the manifold still. I need to get this one torx bit off (see pic) but can’t get my rachet handle on there because of the plastic shroud. Any trick to this? Maybe I could get a 1/4” spanner on the hex portion of the socket and back it out that way?

Hello Boys & Girls I've got coolant dribbling out from the weep hole near the water pump area. I've already started taking this thing apart. I am planning on using the URO parts expanding pipe to rectify this. So far, my parts list has the following Anything else I should "renew" while I'm in the are?

I will try the 30 seconds thing... there is NOTHING in the manual about how to pair Bluetooth.... go figure. Gabe79, that is the page I'm referring to. I can't find my ULF part number on that list at all. My ULF PN is 8411694601101 - no such thing on that page. Only part # starting with 8421 XXX and 8410 XXX - no 8411 like mine. Edit: 30 seconds thing not working. I also found instructions saying if if you press the button with the speaking face for 6 seconds with the ignition turned off, then put the key into position 2 (i.e. 1 before starting the engine) then it will become discoverable. I managed to get it to show up (it showed BMWXXXX (the last 5 digits of VIN) but when I tried to pair it asked for passkey which I didn't have. I then went digging in the boot and removed the bluetooth module and I had to flip it over to get the PIN. After re-assembling everything, I can no longer get it to show up on my phone when I go to add bluetooth devices.