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Annu

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Posts posted by Annu


  1. 3 hours ago, hotwire said:

    As Dan says - very straight forward BUT only if you have ALL the parts.

    It is practically plug & play

    You require:

    Gearbox - complete with shifter linkage/stick & mounting bracket

    Front section of driveshaft - to suit G260 E30

    Clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing, flywheel & circular shim plate. All associated bolts. As Dan says - insert a spigot bearing 

    Master cyl, slave cyl, reservior/bracket, clutch line & hoses - pressure & reservior to master cyl

    Manual pedals & the matching longer bolt or a complete pedal box.

     

    It is easier to change the pedals rather than swapping the whole box. Remove the auto pedal & insert the two pedals with the longer bolt.

    There is a perferated panel on the bulkhead - push this out & mount the master cyl to the pedal box (pre existing mounting holes)

    The clutch line pipe clips into pre existing clips along the bulkhead & down to a mounting point on the L/H inner guard/rail - where it connects to the hose to the slave

    Reservior bracket mounts to the battery tray, hose leads through an existing hole in the bulkhead onto the master cyl.

    Remove the auto shifter assy. Underneath is remove the auto trans & cooler lines, fit a new spigot bearing into the crank, fit the clutch, gearbox & either swap the driveshaft or split the existing & replace the front section (rear half is the same for all).

    Make sure your box mounts, giubo, hanger bearing & u joints are all good - replace if not. Also shifter linkage bushes, they are best replaced anyway.

    You need to bridge the inhibitor switch wiring in the plug that connected to the shifter. Green /yellow to green /black for start & green /yellow to blue/white for reverse lights.

     

    Note: if the G260 came from an E30 then all above applies. If it came from an E34 then several parts need swapping. I can fill you in on that if need be.

     

     

     

     

    Thanks Grant, that's really helpful. The box is off an e30 so I don't any of that other info. I got all the stuff you've mentioned but what is the circular shim plate you are talking about?


  2. On 4/3/2020 at 1:44 PM, Driftit said:

    Hey mate.  There used to be a good guide on the forum.  Now I can't seem to find it.  I followed it around 10 or so years ago for my E30 series car.  Otherwise a LHD one will be fine.  Only thing that differs is the reservoir for the clutch.  Which is really straight forward.

    One thing that is different between autos and manuals that catches many out is the spigot bearing that goes in the end of the crank and aligns the gearbox shaft.  Autos don't have it.  Manuals need it.

    Everything else is very bolt in/on if you have a complete conversion kit.

    Cheers, thank you Dan. Yeah I watched and read so many threads on a manual conversions and forgot all of these are lhd and when I went to get a manual pedal assembly it came with a clutch reservoir which then clicked my mind that we can't just cut off the nipple on the brake reservoir to bleed the clutch.


  3. I'm doing a manual conversion on my m20b20, decided to go for a g260. I was wondering if anyone could link me a video or a write on a manual conversion on  a RHD e30 as all the ones that i have found are for LHD. Im sure they aren't too different. From all the write ups and videos i've seen they use the brake fluid reservoir to bleed the clutch but for LHD there is a seperate clutch fluid reservoir which has a soft line to the master cylinder? If there aren't any write ups can someone please give me a detailed explanation or directions.

    Thank you.


  4. $150

    Muffler off an 1996 e36 328i. Its twin inlet and outlet. Bought it to to fit on my e30 but had a change in plans. 

     

    It can fit an e30 with some fabrication but unsure what models it’ll fit, mine is a 88 facelift 320i 

     

    Price is firm. Msg me if interested.

    Location Auckland

    1213EDE2-99A8-4D6B-89A1-988A80D3D0AB.jpeg

    D43CC9C0-BBDA-4CAF-B812-0D77E98EBE94.jpeg


  5. On 2/1/2017 at 0:31 PM, brockie123 said:

    If the mechanic jump started it straight off the starter that rules out the starter as an issue.

    i've had a problem like this recently, turned out the keyway in the back of my ignition barrell was spinning inside my ignition switch. i could turn the cars ignition on but couldn't get to the cranking position on the key. 

    a handy trick to know if your car is motronic 1.3 as your profile suggests. Is, open up the diagnostic port in the engine bay and with the ignition on and the car in neutral and jump pin 11 and pin 14 this will crank your starter and get you going. 

    I'll try tht


  6. My e30 won't start occasionally. When I turn the key the engine used to crank. To turn the car on I either had to push start or jumpstart the car. I dropped off the car to get it resprayed and that guy couldn't turn it on so he got his mate who was apparently a mechanic to start it and he used a screwdriver and touched two bolts (sorry I don't know what they are called) on the starter to turn it on. After I got the car back it won't start and won't crank the engine either. Please help me out.


  7. Hey Lads

    I've got 87 320i Sedan. I'm getting my car resprayed soon but before that i thought I'd get some missing exterior parts. If you are wrecking an E30 or are selling the following parts please comment down below.

    • Front bumper vents; left and right
    • Front bumper cover (chrome/metallic one)
    • Fog lights
    • Front bumper lip; preferably OEM
    • OEM boot lip
    • Plastic trim around the chrome/metallic front and rear bumper covers

    As my E30 is in pretty rough condition. I need some other parts too, listed below:

    • Window winders
    • Sunroof winder
    • Glove box upper cover
    • Entire carpet including door trims
    • instrument cluster

    That's all I can think for now but I will add to this if I need anything else. 

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