master garion

Clearing out the garage. Most parts new except the opened bottle of coolant and license plate frames. These parts have been purchased for a M52 E36 or M54 E46, but may fit other models. Buyer's responsibility to ensure correct parts - I can provide part numbers if required. Must pick up. Please PM.

BMW coolant - 1 bottle unopened/full, 1 bottle 2/3 full as per pic. $20 for both bottles.

Frames to suit Euro style license plates. $20 for both.

E36 strut mounts Boge. $90 for two.

E36 cabin filter $20

Aluminium thermostat housing for M52 $20

Thermostat 92 deg for M52 $20

E36 control arm bushes Febi $20

E36 crankcase vent valve Febi + grommet + hose from valve to dipstick tube $90 (may be suitable for other models with M52)

E36 rear brake lines ATE brand (2 x inner, 2 x outer) $70

E36 a/c belt for later 6-cyl models (with M52) Continental $20

E36 differential mounts (2 on diff casing, 1 on subframe) Lemforder and BMW $90

Water pump with metal impeller Graf for M54 $80

E46 main drive belt Continental $40

E36 brake light switch 4 pin $40

E46 repair clips for left front window regulator $10

Arrgh this is driving me nuts!! Does anyone know what could possibly be causing this? It's not the vapour barrier (redone with new barrier, proper bmw glue stuff and even replaced the door card clips) or door seals. Don't have a sunroof, don't have rear a/c vents. Hosing the car down does not show where it's coming in. I have noted some wetness in the battery compartment and some moisture behind the rear seat backs, particularly the bolsters on both sides, but I don't know if these are related.

Also, we're not talking about a little dampness in the carpet - it's absolutely soaking! There's gotta be like a litre or two in there.

Hoping the collective bimmersport brain trust might know what's up. Cheers

And if you look at the stamping on the boss (an about the two o'clock position) there is a badly stamped fake JWL marking as well - trying to suggest it has a JWL approval. Plus the fact that the markings do look to be stamped and not cast - adding further stress weak-points into the wheel, great.

If it is anything that you need to stop you in a hurry - tyres, wheels, pads, rotors, fluids, etc. then it is not worth scrimping on in my book. First thing I look at when I buy a car is the tyres on it, if people want to fit Ling Longs on a BMW then they sure ain't gonna be spending money on it!

Tyres are the first thing I look at too. Even if the car is mint in every other way, I lose interest as soon I see Sagitar/BlueDragon/Longwang/Chingchong because that tells me what the owner's like. What amazes me is the number of expensive, powerful cars riding on the crappiest tyres. See this a lot in Newmarket - $100 tyres on $100k+ cars......cheap bastards or just ignorant?

Sorry I should have been more specific. Need someone to diagnose/fix an electrical problem with the car (battery drain, charging system etc). It's for a friend who is not mechanically inclined. Last place car was taken to did not fix the problem.

Someone good, rather than a "mate". Thanks!

thanks

I just undone the bolts and left it dangling on its lines. Left enough room To replace everything.

Gonna try this. Can't be bothered removing the PS pump.

Hey peeps, i'm trying to replace the oil filter housing gasket (leaking) on my E36 323i. I've managed to take the alternator off but not sure what to do with the PS pump attached to the bottom of the filter housing. There's a metal oil pipe going to it so I can't just undo the bolts and move it aside. Do I have to open the PS system or is there a way of avoiding this? Thanks in advance.

Cheers

E46 left rear window motor

E36 right front corner indicator lamp, clear, for sedan

E36 11 button OBC

E36 rear door actuator x 1

E36 front door actuator x 1

thanks

Hi all my e46 2004 battery just died, it was using a "super charge" cca 600 smf65L.

Is there any tips/advice on the current market of batteries readily out there?

Will resort to jeff grey's OEM batts , (exide??).

In CHCH so not much choice regarding options.

Can anyone chip in please?

Thanks.

Supercharge are excellent and the battery of choice for some independent BMW specialists and non-BMW factory dealerships. Some BMW dealerships carry Bosch, can't go wrong with that either.

But I have recently discovered Koba, which is stocked by Partmaster and is very well-priced especially if you can get it at trade pricing. Was recommended by some folks in the trade. Seems to be well made and comes with a 3 year warranty, which would suggest a certain level of quality. Some folks on this forum may have a different opinion.

sorry to revive this one but my rear diff mount is starting to split. Seeing as the diff needs to come out, is it wise to replace the front diff mounts and the axle carrier mounts at the same time? And how many workshop hours to do this job? Cheers.

Whats this inches crap NZ is a metric country since 1972.

P.S. if you want a genuine BMW screen you can simply pay the difference that what I did, Insurance company paid the first $350:00 as that is what they allow in their cover.

Oh my lord. Chinese glass in a BMW. What next.

I'd be sure to pay extra for the real deal.

Of course I can pay the diff for OEM glass (who's ever been stopped from paying more for anything?) and was even asked if I wanted to but it's the principle of it. Why should I have to pay for glass that can be wiped properly by the wipers? Shouldn't the replacement (OEM or otherwise) at least be expected to perform like the original or is that an unreasonable expectation? Thought that's why we have glass cover in our policies.

ok i figured I better check with you lot before I go nuts with my insurer/Smith & Smith. Cracked the windscreen on my E46 so I called my insurer as I had glass cover. Told them I wanted OEM glass. They got S & S to sort it out but insurer won't allow OEM glass cos price differential too great (S & S priced up both options). Both insurer and S & S adamant nothing wrong with the non-OEM (Chinese made) windscreens and claim to have done thousands etc. Couldn't be f**ked fighting them and thought they couldn't be that bad.

First thing I noticed after getting car back was the optical distortion in the bottom few inches of the windscreen. I figured I could live with that but then I just noticed in the last couple of weeks (because of all the rain) that the wipers are not wiping the 6 inches or so near the bottom of the A-pillar on the passenger's side. It seems to me like the glass is too curved (especially at the edges) and the wiper blade doesn't make contact with the glass along its entire length. At the moment, only two thirds of the passenger's side wiper touches the glass with the remainder just hanging in the air.

Anyone else had this problem? Any thoughts/comments? Btw, wiper blades are OEM bosch with spoiler etc.

Is that a good price for it?

Just a heads up, we sell these in perfect condition for around $40-$50.

How can I get one at that price?

Is that correct they can't be complied from January next year, heard this from a dealer, what about the E39, just E60 and E90 now are able to be complied, can any one shed any light on this?.

Yep, from 1 Jan I'm pretty sure all E39s and most, if not all E46s will not comply with the emissions standards. For the last 3 years, no E39s or E46s before 2001 (more or less) could be brought in anyways. Better do it quick if you're thinking of bringing one in.

Hydraulic lifters are noisy

Thanks Glenn, I suspected it might be the lifters.

try an engine flush product then some lifter quietener oil additive .

worked alright on a couple of 328i's i have had

something like "Nulon Lifter Free"?

Does someone know what this ticking noise is?

I have the exact same noise in my car. Oil level's fine and the car's done 170k. The noise seems to be coming from driver's side of the engine.

Rear diff hanger bush has probably gone ... its an e46 thing @ 100-125ks

Is this the same as the rear differential mount 33-17-6-751-808? I have the exact symptoms described by the OP (on my E46 320i).

I've got this part on order now. Glenn, how do I remove the old butyl?

I would suggest you use the correct part. If you saw what was under the floor you would appreciate why, long term

Glenn, do you mean the sound insulation aspect of the barrier? If so, I would definitely go with the BMW part. Cheers.

Hey guys

I've just bought some butyl sealant from the dealer with the intention of resealing the moisture barrier on a rear door. I have water leaking into the footwell.

The barrier is in terrible state and torn in many places. Other than buying a new one from the dealer (unsure of price), is there a good alternative, say like plastic sheeting cut to size? Has anyone done this before?

Also, any ideas on how to remove the old sealant from the door?

cheers

So something weird happened after I replaced the final stage resistor. Intermittently, the alarm siren "wails". Sometimes while the engine and car is running, sometimes it does it also while the engine is off. But seems to stop when the alarm is armed. The car's an E36 and the alarm is the Mongoose M80G. I have switched off the siren for now. This obviously defeats the purpose of having an alarm.

I was pretty careful not to touch anything else while replacing the final stage resistor (which was a bitch to get to btw). Could it be coincidence that the siren broke at the same time I replaced the resistor? Cheers

If you don't know anything about cars and rely on the Dog & Lemon guide for advice, you will end up buying a Toyota or Honda. They bag pretty much all the euros on the reliability aspect, which is fair tbh for the most part.