walross

Hey mate just like that but for the 2008 onward models. That won't be a direct replacement as the circuit and internal connections differ.

I have somehow managed to damage and break the L shape sensor connect on the back of my E90 Active steering rack. I know the unit is the motor position sensor and that same ebmpapst produced motor/sensor combo was used on a range of BMW models between 2008 and 2013. I also know that BMW have a part number for replacing that same style end cap sensor with L shaped connector on E60 models (Part # 32106769232). I cannot find that sensor as a stand alone item. I cant even find the combined motor with sensors used on various models steering racks as an individual part number. NZ wreckers seem to be cleaned out of active steering racks with undamaged connectors which kind of shows these items are a common failure point. BMW dealership quoted me $5,500 for a whole new steering rack... The are refurbished steering racks online which to me says there must be an avenue for purchasing the EBMPAPST components. If anyone knows where to acquire or has a steering rack with that same sensor for wrecking then please get in touch! FYI Picture is for visual reference and not my actual steering rack. If nothing else I feel this is a good vent about how BMW pillage us. They have exploded diagrams showing the individual components of a steering rack which seems pointless if they wont sell them.

I personally didn't but I took it to a mechanic that said they had the right software to do it. So I am trusting they did. Is there anywhere you can look at the calibration factors using Bavarian technic or MHD? Update: I reset all adaptations and it currently *knock on wood* seems a lot better! The starts are waaaaay calmer, car feels smoother. But still not perfect. Just the odd subtle hiccup a few seconds after start where it still does a miss or two.

During cold starts I get slight missing and rough idle. If I don't leave the car to idle for a minute or two before driving the car it will seriously misfire as soon as I load the engine, throwing multiple misfire codes, cylinder shutoff etc, limp home mode. Even if I let off the throttle and reduce load it will just continue to misfire. If I pull over and restart the car its usually fine immediately after. It blows a little smoke cold and I notice the exhaust tips are getting really black like its running too rich or something? Comes good when warm. Twice I have instances too where the car is up to temperature. I go to plant it from a standstill (high load, low rpm) and again it sends it shuddering into multiple cylinder misfires etc). I have recently replaced Plugs, Coils and upgraded to brand new OEM index 12 injectors. Before the injector change I was getting misfire codes, shuddering, spluttering on start ups. There has been a real improvement. But still nagging issues. Vanos solenoids and boost solenoids also changed reasonably recently. I run the car nearly entirely on Gulls E10 98 octane. Colleagues suggest that maybe its shitty fuel? Thoughts on that remark? Car is running jb4 with MHD BEF. Logs for LPFP and HPFP pressures look really good at start up and running so I think it would be clutching at straws to blame them. But nothing is impossible right? Codes are repeated individual cylinder misfires including 29CC (several cylinders) and 29DC (cylinder injection shutoff). But have also had 2x 29F1 (Fuel pressure, Plausibility) and one 29F3 recently (Faulty low fuel pressure sensor) Also had 2B2C come up frequently and im not sure what that is? Car has only 70,000km on the clock. Boosts well (when this isn't happening). Seen in logs it easily reaches 17psi targets. Does have horrendous waste gate rattle though. I feel like walnut blasting might come up as a recommendation. Who does it in or near taranaki? Is hamilton my closest bet? I have bought a catch can to be fitted too. Your thoughts are appreciated!