Craig B

Thanks Jared

Yes, I agree entirely, I should have held out for the 6 cylinder as I'm am inline 6 kind of guy (HR 186S), but in my defense for the e90 series, 

MECHANICAL....WATER......PUMP........

Hi All

As a follow-up to my previous coolant woes, I've added some pictures on how to replace the 'Camshaft Cover Plate"

Quick Recap, used a cheap top coolant hose, leaked from day 1 and I put very small crack in radiator plastic header tank, I then used radiator stop leak (DON"T DO THIS....), gummed up thermostat, pressurized coolant system.   I finally replaced all hoses, new thermostat, new radiator, still got a small coolant leak, seemed to be coming from behind the engine at the firewall, sealed itself for a while, but I over filled the coolant tank (DON"T DO THIS...), and it started to loose coolant again, also smelt out the car with coolant smell through aircon.

Step 1: Found video on youtube by a polish guy who traced his 'back of engine coolant leak" to the camshaft cover, American stuff is no use as they don't seem to have the 2.0L engine

Step 2: Order replacement cover from e-bay

Step 3: Remove the top cover with aircon filter - 6 screws

Step 4: Un-clip and remove small plastic panels on both sides

Step 5: Un-clip cross engine cable holder and release cables, unlcip back cable holder from plenum (they un-clip and pull towards the front)

Step 6: Undo two screws on plenum panel and lift up and out to release, remove weather sltrip

Step 7: Unclip cam cover breather an cable tie out of the way

Step 8: Undo hose clip on ali block at back of engine, and undo quick connect on brake aster cylinder - remove whole hose

Step 9: Use Torque socket to undo the tower strut

Step 10: Unscrew cap and use torque socket to undo bolt, remove brace

Step 11:  Now that the area is relatively clear, you're going to have to squeeze down behind the engine between the fire-wall with a 10mm ratchet spanner and loosen/remove the 4 bolts holding the camshaft cover in place. 

NOTE: Make note of orientation before removing

You are probably going to need to pry it off with a screw driver. 

NOTE: You are going to loose a bunch of coolant so be prepared.

I tried several times to get a photo, but it's too cramped, I got a clip of the corner...

Down here....

It's probably going to look a little like this

Step 12: Fit new one, brace yourselves, it can take a while to get the bugger lined up, and all the bolts in holes...  Brace yourself for hand cramps

Step 13: Reassemble the rest of the car

Step 14: Refill coolant (DON"T OVERFILL...)

Step 15: Run engine, check for leaks

 Fingers crossed you'll be coolant leak free, happy days

Have a 2009 320i e90 wagon

Not long after getting this I (well the wife was actually driving) blew a top radiator hose, so ordered a new one from Silverdale Radiators, this in hindsight was a mistake as it leaked from day one, oh and obviously I cracked the inlet connector on the radiator trying to get the old hose off, great.

Stupidly put some radiator stop leak in it, and seemed to fix the crack, but the new hose just didn't seal properly, so ended up topping up coolant every 3 months or so, until the replaced hose failed catastrophically on a drive home, fortunately only 2 mins from home so got there safe.  Replaced the top hose again and surprise surprise, no leaks, no refreshing coolant.  Life was good for a while.

Then a couple of weeks ago developed a coolant smell in the aircon, shortly followed by steam puffing from the bonnet at the lights, figured it was the cracked radiator, so replaced that, change over went well, but still had same problem, coolant smell in cabin, steam puffing out at intersections (got some pretty funny looks).  Radiator inlet hose was very hot, outlet hose cold, loosing coolant from the belly-pan when stationary, radiator fan not running.

Googled the bejesus out of it and eventually determined mines a 4 cylinder so mechanical water pump, (yah... finally a postie for having the 4 cylinder)  Read lots about cracked head gaskets, broken cooling fans, and that I should get warnings or go into limp mode if coolant system fails, well, none of that, just puffing steam and smell.

Replace the thermostat, which was not too bad to do in place without removing the pump, just need the right torx socket with a swivelly extension, oh and re-insulated the thermostat wiring which is pretty close to the engine so had melted...

Bled system, Started up on stands and what do you know the outlet warmed up and the fan started all by itself, magic.

Took for a run, slight coolant smell, but this was just the excess coolant purging itself.

Lesson:  Don't buy the cheapest parts, DON'T use radiator stop leak, avoid the american youtube videos if you've got a 320i, they mainly seem to have 6 Cylinders

Hi all

just had this problem, 320 2009 E91 LCI wagon

key wouldn’t, open door,, changed battery - no go, also got “no ETC” and comfort access no-go ie couldn’t start car without fob in slot

searched net, started going down Antenna diversity module route - nzd$650 +gst for a second hand unit.

pulled apart rear wing to access ADM, no water or ingress found in module (note Japanese imports have an extra input into the ADM, for their tolling system, so slightly different to ones on eBay...)

put back together and started working????

opened boot and stopped again, all faults

from this I deduced a snapped power wire going to the ADM

stripped wing of again, and had to cut driver side rubber boot, found one of the wires snapped, joined back (solder and heat shrink), now all go

also found reversing camera cable crimped, so rejoined broken wires and that now goes again

result...