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HJ130i

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Posts posted by HJ130i


  1. Hi all.

    Looking to get back into the 130i world.

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/947775921960959/permalink/9950220711716390/

    Have seen this number, with 109,000kms. Have chatted to the owner and he's got a stack of paperwork which is good, but the issue is it has the handbrake light on 24/7, as well as the brake pad service light too. Also has a parking light symbol on as well. 

    Being in Northland I can't view it (I'm Auckland based). What are all your thoughts on the matter? Worth the big drive? 


  2. 11 hours ago, Ghost Chip said:

    If you can hear the motor trying to work when trying to lift/operate the window from the button then likely just the regulator.

    Thinking the same thing. Guess I’ll take the door apart next weekend and whack a new regulator in. 


  3. Had some people in the car today, lowered the passenger right hand rear window - crunch. Loud crunch, window won’t come back up at all. When you try to get it up, more crunching. 
     

    ended up getting it up by hand (as I’m in the coromandel, and have a 3 hour drive back to aucks tomorrow), but the window is just held up with a ton of tape. Any ideas what it is? Motor issue, regulator? 


  4. On 6/3/2021 at 10:43 AM, Matt said:

    Well, after ordering them at the start of October last year I have FINALLY received the last pieces of trim to finish my 1M interior conversion, which are the gauge pod and the dash trim. I'm stoked with how it has turned out, really gives the car a bit more of a special feel than the standard aluminium trim, I think. Pics below..

    8SBVWtC.jpg

    cZmzVUm.jpg

    N7xteJY.jpg

     

    Unfortunately though my headliner has now started to sag, so going to need to sort that out soon. Anyone got a recommendation on where to get that done and expected cost?

     

    Where did you get the pod cover and the dash trim cover?

    Going on my wish list!

    • Like 1

  5. 2 hours ago, Jacko said:

    Don't screw around with cheap rotors and pads, trust me, its not worth it. Biggest ball ache Ive ever had was constantly warped "brembo" rotors. Its worth paying for decent stuff. If its a stock car getting driven as per stock - ATE rotors and pads. 

    Good advice. Where does one get ATE in NZ?


  6. 3 minutes ago, qube said:

    ^ depends on the brand of the disk and pads.

    I just priced up 4 Brembo ceramic pads and 4 Brembo UV coated rotors and it comes to about $500 landed in NZ

     

    My price is labour included, hence why it seemed a deal to me. Just basic pads and brakes, no name stuff really. 


  7. 31 minutes ago, qube said:

    thats so messed up.. and its crazy because its such a model specific part. will probably end up on a 116i with 20" rimz

    There's a 116 near my work with huge wheels, 1M bumper, big spoiler - the lot. But all very banged up. Not pretty.


  8. 43 minutes ago, Driftit said:

    Seriously...  That is f**king annoying.  Sorry to hear that.

    Couldn't have said it better myself.

     

    Might be worth trying to get a new one from Aliexpress? It's where I got mine, wasn't too expensive from memory. 

    • Like 1

  9. 1 hour ago, M3AN said:

    I can sell you a set of OE BMW meaty pads and healthy rotors that I've just taken off the front of my 130i if that's of interest? That'll save you a chunk on shipping. Wish I could also offer you the rears but I've not done them yet. Calipers too if you need a spare set lol. If you're possibly interested I can measure them and take some pics but they're in good enough condition to last years yet. I upgraded to performance calipers and rotors.

    Either way, I got 4 x rotors shipped from www.spareto.com and they were cheaper landed than I could get locally... although the shipping still stung!

     

    Would love that! Feel free to message me with a quote etc. 
     

    will also check our spareto!

    • Like 1

  10. On 11/24/2020 at 12:56 PM, Matt said:

    Bit of a long post this time, but there is much to update on!

    Firstly, there is interior updates 4, 5, 6, and 7 (ish)?

    As I hinted at above I'm adding more alcantara bits through the interior. The inspiration is the 1M coupe, and the goal is to pretty much replicate the complete 1M interior in the 130i, which means getting rid of the textured aluminium completely (which I've never really liked) and swapping it either for alcantara covered parts, or matte black plastic, exactly as in the 1M. I am also going for the orange stitching where I can on the alcantara. I haven't got all the bits yet (more coming), but so far this is where I'm at...

    Alcantara door pulls on all 4 doors:

    3y5wDte.jpg

     

    Genuine 1M handbrake boot with smooth leather handbrake handle, Genuine 1M gearshift surrounds, gearknob and alcantara shift boot. I have also replaced the ashtray with a wireless Qi charging pad from Inbay, so no more charging cables runnning across the centre console!

    bES8mVZ.jpg

    qaFSx10.jpg

     

    Next up I have been doing some upgrades to the ICE. My car was optioned (or not optioned, if you will) with the base audio which sounds pretty crap. Considering I seem to spend 1.5-2 hours a day in this car on my commute, a better sounding stereo was well overdue! So I have added in the following:

    • Focal 4.320 4 channel amp, plus the Focal BMW IMP 2.1 wiring harness, just to make the install easier. This makes it plug and play in newer BMWs but given the age of mine, I installed it exactly the same way as the factory Alpine system is done, by splicing into the existing speaker wiring. So now the front door speakers, and under-seat subs are run off the Focal amp, and the rear speakers are run off the factory headunit
    • E8X/E9X Logic 7 tweeters. I chose these since they are a factory part, the fit directly into the existing (empty) tweeter pods, and plug into the second socket on the factory door speakers. I actually think the base door speakers are fine for the job they do, they just need tweeters and proper amplification to get the most out of them! If you can get them second hand off ebay too, it is a relatively cheap upgrade
    • One thing that isn't up to the job, in my opinion is the factory under-seat subs, so these have been replaced with "GRS B200-4 ASD Series 8" Glass Fiber Subwoofer" which I managed to score from parts express at 75% off on a clearance special! Now there is actually some proper bass to be felt from the system, and since these are designed for BMW, they fitted perfectly into the factory enclosures, and the factory wiring plugged straight in.

    Suffice to say, it sounds WAY better now, definitely of the quality I expect from a BMW now, and it is actually enjoyable to turn the volume up loud finally!

    Amp (currently mounted on a piece of Rimu, because that's what I had lying around ??

    GpToMYG.jpg

     

    One of the subs fitted in its spot:

    lpW83ur.jpg

     

    Logic 7 tweeters:

    PZp3DZB.jpg

    fY2gNOM.jpg

     

    Last but not least, I got sick of looking at the phone mount stuck onto my centre air vent, which I always used for google maps, so I have added in a wireless apple carplay system from AliExpress. This is an add on unit that connects in to the existing CCC idrive, so it still has all the original idrive menus, but holding down the menu button, while in the aux audio screen opens up apple carplay. Since it is wireless too it means I can just leave my phone on the charging pad in the centre console, and no ugly cables to plug in! Extra bonus, it comes with a microphone for hands free calling, which i've mounted on top of the A pillar trim, and the steering wheel controls work to skip tracks etc when playing spotify/podcasts etc. Obviously there's no touch screen so you navigate around using the idrive controller. Probably as expected for a system like this it isn't 100% bug free, and does occasionally glitch or freeze, but it still has massively improved the car for the daily commute, so I am stoked with it.

    F3SJRKI.jpg

    11PQDqe.jpg

     

    So as of now, the only piece of aluminium trim I have left is the one in the middle of the dash. I have ordered a replacement in black alcantara with orange stitching, as well as another gauge pod in black alcantara with orange stitching to complete the 1M package. Hopefully they come in the next month or two, and hopefully they are actually the correct version for RHD unlike the last one I bought.

    While I was coding in the new cluster (a couple of posts up), I also finally got around to coding in the SPBR option for the M performance brakes (or the 135i version of that I have). Can't say I can feel too much difference to be honest, maybe a fraction sharper at first bite, but that could just be my imagination?? Anyway, I'm sure the coding option is there for a reason so good to do it finally and have it as it should be,

    Lastly, the car is getting new rear wheel bearings, and rear axles fitted later this week, to hopefully (really really hoping) cure the high speed vibration the car suffers from currently. Will get the harmonic balancer checked at the same time, and the car will get a full condition check before taking it to my/its first track day on Sunday. Can't wait!

    That's it for the updates for now. Hopefully it runs well at the trackday with no issues, then I will try and make it to the next Auckland meet the week after that, if it is on.

    What unit did you get for the carplay? Super keen on it!

     


  11. 12 minutes ago, *Glenn* said:

    Another thing you must also consider is that your spending all this money and you still haven’t got a new rear wheel bearing. And what else will be compromised when they install the second hand parts you have purchased off Brent ?

    They are fitting the brand new bearing into the parts from BM World. parts sourced from a newer, lower kms car than mine. Not too worried there. 


  12. 2 minutes ago, Jacko said:

    Thats absurd, Id be arguing they didnt have the gear or know how to do the job they shouldnt have taken it on, and wanting them to discount the rates. 

    You're not wrong - will chat to them soon. They initially said $700 for a wheel bearing, and they've said they won't charge extra for the new labour when fitting the new hub and axle etc - but it does seem odd that they couldn't get it apart in the first place. It's not uncommon for a hub to sit tight. 


  13. So I've been told they can't get the wheel bearing hub out at all, totally stuck/seized. I'll need a new axle and wheel hub assembly etc etc. Can't be normal can it? 

    Just moved house and suburb, so I've not got new local mechanic just yet - and it seems the local AA can't do jack. 

     

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