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Only118d

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Posts posted by Only118d

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I finally fixed / replaced the O2 sensor. 

     

    The new O2 sensor is the Bosch unit (0 281 004 746) as provided by BMworkshops.

     

    Redoing the continuity / bell test across the red and white wires (heating circuit) returned a positive result on the new sensor. 

    Where the old unit didn’t so I am sure the heating circuit of the old O2 sensor had broken/burnt out. 

     

    So I fitted the new O2 sensor and cleared the ECU fault codes. 

    After running the engine there are no more ECU fault codes showing so I am hoping all is fixed now. 

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  5. Posted · Report reply

    42 minutes ago, balancerider said:

    I’m running s001 run flats on my F31 and they have excellent longevity, more than 40000k on them and they’re still on 4mm front / 3.5 rear

    Thanks for that and I am certainly now convinced the S001 is the way to go.   I just need to find them at a good price.   

    • Like 1

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Olaf for the extra info and your timing is perfect.  

    I happened to check the tyre depths on the 118d and the rears (245/40R17) are getting low.    

    The car is actually already fitted with Bridgestone Potenza S001 (RFT) both ends so it is great to hear they are good.  

    I will look to refit the S001/RFT on the rear although they are $400 each (about double what i am used to spending).  

     

    PS i am not looking forward to using the tire goo if i have to....

    Front tyres.jpg

  7. Posted · Report reply

    My F20 118d (2016) is showing P0036 and P0038 codes on my cheap OBDII reader.  

     

    Note I didn’t/don’t have a CEL (check engine light) on the dash, I was just checking my OBDII scanner on the car. 

     

    So before I blow $200 to $500 on a new O2 sensor does the following make sense or has anyone got any ideas on what else I can check first?

     

    As I understand these codes pertain to the post Cat O2 sensor heater circuit. 

    So I found the post cat O2 sensor underneath after removing two covers.

    I couldn’t see any obvious damage or issues to the sensor, wires or connectors. 

    So I thought I would check for continuity of the heater circuit of the O2 sensor as I think this is all you can check for in this case. 

     

    However I can’t work out the wiring of the sensor as the wire colours aren’t the usual (they are black, white, grey and red). 

    Normally there would be two (2) white wires for the heater circuit. 

    I am guessing the heater circuit is the red and white wires based on some searching on the www (and some deduction). 

     

    So I continuity (bell) checked between all pins in the O2 sensor connector including between red and white but none appear to be connected. 

     

    So I think the heater circuit in the O2 sensor is toast/burnt/broken.  

     

    So in summary:

     

    1.       I assume the heater circuit for the post Cat O2 sensor isn’t super important or I would get a CEL?   

    a.       Although I would still like to fix it. 

     

    2.       Does anyone know the colour coding of the O2 sensor wires? 

    a.       And what the resistance should be on the heater circuit. 

     

    3.       Is there anything else I should check before buying a new O2 sensor? 

     

    4.       Does anyone have a good/cheap source for a replacement O2 Sensor?

    a.       OEM part number 13628589104 (I think). 

     

    5.       Is there anything else I need to consider or check or should i just change out the O2 sensor.  

     

     

     

     

    Thanks

     

    118d o2 sensor layout.JPG

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  8. Posted · Report reply

    On 2/27/2024 at 10:58 PM, Olaf said:

    Welcome!

    Stick with RFTs, unless you like the idea of no boot space from carrying a spare, a jack and wheel brace etc.  RFTs are consistently improving; the suspension is tuned for them...

    Thanks Olaf for the feedback on RFTs.  

     

     

    • Thanks 1

  13. Posted · Report reply

    6 hours ago, Eagle said:

    Penrite product selector is a good general go to and is usually fairly accurate. Plenty of aftermarket fluids available for all of that with everyone has their own preferences. I generally use Penrite as they make good products at reasonable prices and are easy to source. 

    I bought an online Haynes manual awhile back and it was ok but it they can vary alot in quality. Bentley publishers make good BMW manuals based on official BMW literature, but i dont think they make one for your car. Usually with BMW's you can find enough info on whatever is required without paying though.

    Thanks Eagle, i checked out the Penrite (Australia?) site, and it is comprehensive.  Although it did suggest a strange engine oil selection for my 118d/B47.  However, I will use it again.   

    You are correct as Bentley Publishing don't have a manual for my 1 series unfortunately.  

    There does seem a lot of information for BMWs on line.  Even more than for MX5 and WRX which i though was quite good.  

    Thanks again for the reply and information.  

  14. Posted · Edited by Only118d · Report reply

    Hello everyone,  I am after the service information for my 118d/F20 as the owner’s manual (found on the www) doesn’t list out everything. 

    Also when I search the www I get different answers depending where I look. 

     

    So I was hoping someone had experience with any of these sources of information or could recommend something else.

     

    1.        The Haynes Manual.  I have used these before and they are usually reasonably good.  It appears there is now a manual for F20 available but it is not a hard book but an online system called “Haynes autofix” which has videos and other stuff.    Has anyone tried these new online Haynes manuals? 

     

    2.       Workshop manual .  Has anyone downloaded one of these?  An actual BMW one or other? 

     

    3.       Or should I just be using the wisdom of you all on Bimmersport.co.nz. 

     

    At this stage I am just after the basics: 

    Engine oil (5w-30 LL04)?

    Trans fluid (ZF only?)

    Coolant (Green ethyl-glycol)?

    Diff oil (75w-90)

    Brake fluid (I bought the BMW DOT4 LV).

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Hello Bimmersport world, I wasn’t planning on joining team BMW as they always seemed too expensive and complicated for me (but fantastic cars).    However a friend was selling his 2016 118d F20 after being deported/relocated to the West Island (Australia) and I have got to like the 118d a lot.  Although I have always hankered for an M car especially after seeing an M5 wagon (the V10 version) at Continental Cars Parts department the other day and the M3 CS at CC-BMW looks the business but $283,000 although East Auckland BMW has one for $270,500.   

     

    The 118d it is a nice package for not much money.     She has done a few kms (150k) so I am working through a list of maintenance items to attend to (I will be posting a few questions if I can find answers already in the forum).  I am hoping on getting 300k out of it before anything major is required (optimistic?). 

     

    I am more familiar on running pre 2000 Japanese cars (WRX, MX5, Corolla, Demio,…) which all need 6month WOFs and don’t have OBDII so the 118d is quite different.  (See my separate post on fixing my disappearing iDrive).

     

    The 118d has the ZF 8speed Auto which seems a fantastic gearbox both to use and own/maintain.  It is my first auto so hopefully I can get my iDrive back so my left hand has something to do, other than changing the Drive Mode button (another great feature).  Do some cars have steering wheel paddles for manual gear changes with these gearboxes? 

     

    I am not sure about the run flat tyres and I will probably look to change them if that makes sense…..although no spare wheel location. 

     

    A diesel engine is also a new thing for me, so lots to learn about these and EGR and DPF and dodgy timing chains (or is that just the N47 and not the B47)

     

    I am looking to get the engine uprated to 165 kW / 450 Nm at Autoupgrades.co.nz on the North Shore. 

    This would make the 118d almost as quick as my WRX but with half the fuel cost. 

    This is more than just a rechip and seems like excellent value. 

    Although I still need to research brake capacity and transmission strength etc. 

    They also do a gearbox reprogram for the ZF 8 speed for quicker/better changes.   

    When and if I do this I will report back. 

     

    That’s probably enough waffle from me at this stage and I look forward to using the Bimmersport NZ Forum in the future. 

    Only a 118d.jpg

    • Like 3

  18. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, The Bimmer said:

    Maybe I can help.Is your NBT Evo is ID4 or ID5?.No signal is cause by VO Lock or Region Lock.Need to patch with  FI or other similar software.

    Hello “The Bimmer” and thanks for helping.

    On checking my vin number on mdecoder.com my 118d build date is 2016-03-23.

    This also confirmed I have these features so I think this confirms my car is Japanese spec.

    S449       Interior Toll Mirror For Japan (interesting)

    S698       Area-Code 2 For DVD (Japan?)

    S807       National Version Japan

    S852       Language Version Japanese

     

    Then checking on Bimmertech.com for “Do I Have CIC, NBT or NBT Evo?”

    I should have “NBT EVO ID4” as the car is 1-Series F20/F21 03/2015 – 06/2016.

    The picture of ID4 also shown on Bimmertech.com also seems to match my iDrive when I could still see it. 

     

    So hopefully that is correct and confirms your question?

     

    And if so how or who can help with the relevant software patches as you mentioned?

     

    Super big thanks by the way. 

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I have recently acquired a “Japanese” import BMW 118d (F20 2016) which has now lost its iDrive readout. 

    And I am new to BMWs and Bimmersport and cars build this century….

     

    So I am looking for help to fix this and posting as a warning to others, assuming you don’t already know all about this…….

     

    After taking the 118d to Continental Cars BMW in Wairau in Auckland for two (2) recalls as checked and reported on the BMW NZ recall website. 

    >> The EGR Cooler fix (I know the why’s and wherefores for this). 

    >> And a software update. (and I am not sure what this would do and CC-BMW couldn’t tell me, although I now know it ruins the iDrive). 

    CC-BMW made me sign a waiver regards the software update so I really should of said no…… but you assume the best I guess. 

     

    On collecting the car I was informed the head unit / radio and GPS /navigation no longer works. 

    On checking the car there is no iDrive display/information at all and the screen only says “no signal” in red letters in the middle of the screen.  

    On raising this with CC-BMW they have advised taking the car to “OBDTech NZ” in Penrose who are “likely” to restore the iDrive system. 

     

    On doing a bit of research on the WWW it appears this is a common issue on Japanese import BMWs that have the radio and navigation updated locally for NZ.   Apparently other BMW dealers recommends not doing any software updates on similar cars for this reason. 

     

    On checking with “Auto Gravity” (who are local Japanese import vehicle conversion specialists) they informed me this is common on the imported 1 series (and others?) when the software is upgraded by BMW after the NZ Radio/GPS updates.  Apparently the pre 2014 models just lose the maps.  Post 2014 lose everything.  Hopefully I have quoted this correctly. 

     

    I have tried rebooting the iDrive system multiple times (holding mode and on/off button for 30s) which does seem to reboot the system but it still comes up with “no signal” on the screen. 

     

    I am guessing the iDrive system needs the head unit “reflashed” using a dealer level tool (or some other witchcraft)……….. quoting a guy from the UK on the www.

     

    So can anyone please help with getting my iDrive back? 

    The radio and navigation is a low priority as I will probably just use my phone for google maps and music etc. 

     

    So are any of these possible or could work:

     

    1.       Is there anyone in Bimmersport World who can help with this in Auckland (or the North Island)? 

    2.       Can anyone recommend either OBDTech or Auto Gravity to help (or anywhere else)?

    3.       Are there other ways to access the iDrive system, remotely? I can’t get “My BMW” to work as the car is from Japan also.

    4.       Any other clever tricks that might help? 

     

    Thanks in advance and sorry if this has all been posted and answered previously. 

     

     

     

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