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glen.riley.1990

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Posts posted by glen.riley.1990

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Quote

    Is it worth documenting processes involved to do this work and shearing with others.

    defiantly, I'm working through a similar thing with an e36 at the moment, albeit at a pretty slow rate, I'd be keen  compare notes at some point.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    On 2/21/2019 at 11:48 AM, Pavkata325 said:

    what gear I put on the oil pump from n62 because I put it on m60 and I do not know what gear to put

    Hey mate, sorry for the slow reply. i have moved away from using the N62 pump and now have a dry sump setup. when i was looking at N62 sump i had gotten to the point of either using the M60 sprocket modified to fit the shaft (as the N62 has a different design chain and the sprocket wont work with the M60 crank sprocket )or a ISO chain sprocket modified to fit the shaft with the same approximate diameter as the N62 sprocket.

     

    The N62 sprocket is smaller, so would result in more oil delivery per engine RPM than the M60 sprocket. I believe the N62 pump is a 2 stage design with an internal relief when a certain oil pressure is reached due to Vanos on the newer engine, which means you might get away with the M60 sprocket. you could always measure oil volume per revolution of the pump to figure out the approximate size of sprocket you need on the newer pump to match the delivery volume of the old pump.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I have just done the clearances on my E36, which i believe uses the same part numbers as an E30.  Coombes Johnson in Hamilton was happy to supply singles, the sizes i needed were all EX Germany (3 weeks) @ $40 a piece.

    I ended up sourcing them online at $13US a piece + shipping. if you have the part numbers they are easy enough to find through any of the usual places. if you want any pointers send me a message.

    unfortunately none of the shims swapped out were that thick either.

    • Thanks 1

  6. Posted · Report reply

    On 12/9/2017 at 1:40 AM, zero said:

    Any progress on this?

    a little, albeit very slow. i have machined up a set of spacers, and can mount the pump to the main caps on the M60. the next things i need to do are turn the oil pump drive shaft down to align the sprocket to the drive off the crank, then shorten the oil pump drive chain off the M60. organizing the oil feed to the block is also going to require some fiddling.

    having changed housing situation  im aiming to make a bit more progress in the new year

  7. Posted · Report reply

    On 3/16/2017 at 4:34 PM, danbullock said:

    Check the wiring from the sensors. My 328 would not start one day and after a week of phaffing about I contacted brent at bmworld. He suggested looking at the wiring on the crank sensor. He was spot on. I checked the cam sensor wiring as well and ditto, all the insulation was just crumbling at my finger tips, causing a short between the wires.

     

    Thanks for the heads up Dan, The sensor in there was only 3 years old! so the insulation was actually ok.

    Had the car scanned and came up crank sensor, so pulled and replace and fixed the issue!

    Turns out the o-ring in my thermostat housing had gone hard and lost its seal. crank sensor vs antifreeze not so good!

     

  8. Posted · Edited by glen.riley.1990 · Report reply

    Hey Guys, i get the feeling my crank position sensor is on the way out but would rather get the car scanned first before replacing stuff willy nilly.

    e36 328i has started dying mid drive, car is manual (converted from auto but have had a couple years driving with no issues) so it bump starts its self and carries on just fine (runs perfectly when not killing the engine.). tach signal drops very quickly when this happens, it looses about 1000 revs in the fraction of a second the motor is not going. if foot is on the clutch it dies out completely.

    the only thing that makes any sense to me is the crank position sensor going bad, or the DME is losing power, or has fried something in the DME.

    feedback on issue and / or reference to person or shop with a code reader in rotorua appreciated!

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Peter

    I have a remus universal box welded the the end of a 328i rear section, sound from the outside was ok but it had a cabin drone at 1800-2000 rpm (open road cruise). i pulled it off as i was doing alot of open road commuting. 

    you might get away with it in a manual car or by adding a couple of resonators, any interest ?

     

     

     

  11. Posted · Report reply

    few quick movers, post updated.

    22 hours ago, Barryn said:

    I am interested in the rear shocks, would you be able to courier them to Wellington??

     

    Hey Barry, Have already had an off on shocks sorry.

    21 hours ago, BreakMyWindow said:

    PM'd

    Replied

    19 hours ago, Mwizi said:

    Will take steering wheel. I am based in Hamilton.

     

     Hi Paul, Have already had an offer of the wheel sorry.

     

    Cheers

    G

  12. Posted · Edited by glen.riley.1990
    items sold     · Report reply

    Hey Guys, moving house so clearing a bit of stuff out of the garage. 

    happy to ship smaller stuff but would prefer pick up from Rotorua on larger items, i will be traveling to auckland and Tauranga from Rotorua in the near is future, so might be able to get gear between those areas.

     

    Sold Pending Payment $50 E36 coupe door cards, front and rear. ok condition, the vinyl is lifting around the pockets and one of the rears might need the insert re-gluing. the bits the clips attach to on the door card have separated and i don't have all of them so you will have to re-se some of another set of door cards.IMG_3749.JPG

    $50 E36 coupe rear seat including seat belts, backs in good condition, bolsters are for the later type (didn't fit my 94 m3). the bench is ok, but has what looks like a ciggy hole on the left side.IMG_3750.JPGIMG_3751.JPGIMG_3752.JPGIMG_3753.JPG

    sold pending payment $50 E36 3 spoke wheel with airbagIMG_3754.JPG

    sold pending Payment $50 E36 motorsport rear shocks - Boge PN 1-0391-27-260-b, they were pulled from a 328i motorsport and replaced with KONIs, unsure of Ks but both have gas pressure as well as rebound + compression damping, not leaking.IMG_3755.JPG

    I have a few other bits locked up in a garage so havent got photos, let me know if any interest in;

    -zf auto box,  torque converter, flex plate and shifter from nz new 328i 190kms ish when pulled out, working perfectly when removed but probably good practice to flush it.

    -E36 328i Auto Drive shaft

    -E36 med case open diff center, suite 3.07-2.93 or lower diffs.

    -E36 sedan black leather front seats, full electric, not heated.

     

  13. Posted · Report reply

    On 10/18/2016 at 9:59 PM, Breaker said:

    Hi Glen, cheers. Been away myself.

    yip keen on it, what do you want for it?

    can discuss by PM now if you like? but given its not mint i'd take $60 for it. it would be ideal i i didn't have to get it shipped as it would probably cost more than the lid its self! i'm in Rotorua.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Breaker said:

    Still interested :)

    Sorry mate been a busy week for me.

    see below, not is as good nick as i thought it was, theres a few dings on the L/H side on the back and a spot where the clear looks like its starting to go on the right had top. definatly not perfect. if your still keen let me know.

    Cheers

     

    IMG_3747.jpgIMG_3748.jpg

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Yep thats the one! Not the easiest swap thats for sure.

    i thought i would give it a go with bits i had in the shed and have heard the rumor it can be done. Depending on how complicated things get its a little more elegant than hacking up the x5 M62 oil pump.

    And external or dry sump systems usually involve a big budget.

    Progress wont be instant but ill let you know how i get on.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Hey Guys,

    i'm looking at adapting an N62 oil pump to an M60. Having trial fitted an N62 pump to the M60 the mounting points can be made to line up the Main caps pretty easily BUT where the N62 has a flat surface on the main cap for the pump to mount to the M60 and M62 caps have a recess for the bolt head.

    i am considering getting some spacers turned up that will fit inside the recess and will raise the mounting surface for the pump, but was wondering if a set of N62 caps would fit. it appears that the main bearing diameter is the same between the two motors, but not the big end.

    Does any one out there have a set of N62 main caps around that i could trial fit

    Or

    does any one already have an answer if if it would or wouldn't work.

     

    any thoughts on either route appreciated.

    2003 BMW 745Li E65 / E66 - Engine Crankshaft Main Bearing Caps and Bolts-main

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    N62 caps

    IMG_3746.jpg

    M60 caps

    IMG_3743.jpg

     

    IMG_3744.jpg

    N62 Pump on M60 block

    Cheers

    Glen

     

     

    • Like 2

  21. Posted · Edited by glen.riley.1990 · Report reply

    ^^^ the flares... its an AC schnitzer factory car that got the body every M3 but the E36 got. i couldn't find one with M-pars, cause, well its a schintzer. i just like the style of the body and it works for wide wheels.

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