fritz.hu

Nice, that's really good to know - thanks! This leak is on the booster/servo itself, though - does anyone know how big a vacuum leak has to be before it starts causing things like an occasionally-hunting idle and pinging on these motors?

Okay, so found some things today. Pulled the spark plugs. All looked very good. Compression test returned 195-205psi on all eight cylinders. Poked a borescope down in there. There is some relatively significant carbon buildup but not too extreme. While cranking for the compression test, heard a significant hissing noise from the brake booster. Located the hiss to one side of the booster, on the opposite side from the vacuum line. Thought, "Ah, that's gotta be expensive." After putting everything back together, started car and let it idle. Pressed brake pedal with constant force - it sinks deeper and deeper until practically to the floor. Let go of pedal, idled for a minute or two, then turned off car. After waiting around 2 minutes, pressed brake pedal expecting some vacuum assist, but there was none. Vacuum had gone in those 2 minutes. Went on Pelican Parts and found out, "Hey, that's not actually so bad." So - a couple of questions for anyone who knows: Brake booster vacuum leak - is that a common occurrence with the E60? Would a leak that dissipates the vacuum held in the booster in less than 2 minutes be significant enough to affect how the engine runs?

Thanks guys, definitely some good points to check! I'll do a compression test soon but I don't have a leakdown tester. It doesn't display any typical headgasket symptoms but I wouldn't rule it out. Re heat difference, I will give it a good drive and then use the IR thermometer to check the temp difference between the front and back of the block. According to this document (http://www.internetsomething.com/lpg/01_N62 Engine.pdf) the rear cylinders would be receiving cool water first, so it would have to be a strange kind of blockage to allow the front cylinders to be colder...

Okay, some progress... maybe. When I did the plugs and coils approx 5000km ago, I did notice the back two - 4 and 8, incidentally the hardest to get at - had never been replaced - the BMW dealer where this car was bought was the last and only place in the service booklet to mention replacing plugs (!!). The plugs themselves were carbon bridged. Didn't think too much of it at the time (also !!). Fast forward to today. I hooked up INPA and went for a drive, keeping an eye on the knock sensor readings. whenever it pinged, guess which ones spiked right up? Yup, 4 and 8. So, my plan now is to acquire an endoscope, then pull the plugs and see what's going on in there. Maybe fit a couple of steps' colder plugs while I'm at it. Any ideas whether colder plugs will actually harm the engine or not? It's specced to have NGK heat range 6, I'm thinking 7, or maybe 8.

Hi Glenn, It doesn't seem to use oil - it has an intermittent issue with the level sensor though so I just check using the dipstick instead. It's nice and stable, I don't need to add oil between services (I do them at 15,000kms) aja540i, I always use 98, usually from Mobil but occasionally the E10 blend from Gull as well. Pinging doesn't seem to get worse whatever octane I use though. It's almost as if it isn't pinging - but then, it only happens at low RPMs when the car is warmed up and under load... but at the same time, it occasionally does it at 3000RPM too - you'd think pinging wouldn't happen at that speed...

Hey all, it's been several years now, and the 530i is still in the family - thought I'd update y'all on how it's doing. Still flawless, still drives as well as when I did the seals. Good on ya, Beisan Systems! Camera doctor, I only did the seals, but it actually did help the rattle a bit. Didn't take it away, but helped.

Hi all, I have a 2006 E60 550i running the N62 4.8 V8, 6spd auto. It has 140,000kms. It runs beautifully when cold, great on the highway, pulls like a demon - but around town after a highway run, it pings like mad and seems to not pull so well anymore. I've done the following: Replaced crankshaft position sensor (verified to be bad) Replaced all four camshaft position sensors Cleaned VANOS solenoids Set of brand new coils Set of brand new plugs (old ones had carbon-looking stuff bridging the electrode and ground) Verified engine temp (upper hose) is 105'C (was not pinging at the time however) Transmission fluid changed twice with new solenoids (unrelated, but in case) New crankcase vent valves New MAF sensor Many, many bottles of total fuel system cleaner run through the tank Can of foaming carbon cleaner through the PCV hose Flashed with latest firmware for all modules except CCC Strapped exhaust butterfly valve open to eliminate it as a false-positive Can of start-ya-bastard sprayed around the engine and its components to check for vacuum leaks Didn't find anything with a full INPA and GT1/DIS and ISTA/D setup What I'm going to try next: Build an Arduino datalogger to see if engine temperature goes much over 105'C when it actually pings Pull and re-check spark plugs Pull and check fuel injectors (??) Pull IVM and try resoldering the DME relay contacts (some claim this is a common issue, but symptoms are normally worse than what I am seeing) Verify intake air temp sensor Replace heater control valves (I get little to no warm air with the system on heating) Anything else? HELP!! this thing is driving me nuts!

Well, I bit the bullet, bought a diagnostic scanner and then bought some Beisan Systems seals for the M54. Initial impressions, 4 days and 100km after installing them: PWHOAR. - Lumpy cold idle is resolved - Engine runs quiet and smooth, no more VANOS rattle either - Takeoffs are indeed smoother, requires less throttle to get somewhere - Power delivery is smooth as butter - No more bogging, no more surging and most awesome of all: - Throttle response and take-off is BRUTAL If you put it in sport and floor it at the lights, it does slap you back in the seat now, and pulls HARD right off idle. I don't think overall power is increased, but low-end, less-than-full throttle is definitely and markedly improved. Recommended for all M54 owners with >90k on the clock who want to feel like they have a new car again

sweet, thanks guys I just found this: http://www.beisansystems.com/ Is there any weight to this guy's claims? If so, this might be my problem?

I've heard a lot about the VANOS seals on the M54's failing and causing similar symptoms. Does this actually happen, or is it just a guy who's trying to make a buck selling replacements?

Hmm, strange - it hasn't shown me any warning/check lights... I'm up in Orewa, Rodney district. Nice town

Hi guys, I have here an ex-Japan 2000 model 530i with the badass M54B30. Manufactured 00/11 and has factory angel-eyes I'm having some odd problems with the motor: When cold, it seems to not idle very smoothly - I've never had a BMW before that didn't idle smoothly when cold When warmed up and accelerating smoothly after slowing down (e.g. when exiting a roundabout), the revs drop from 1500 to 1000rpm and the engine sounds as if its struggling - this continues for a second or two before it jumps back up to 1500-2000rpm, apparently from a downshift. This is quite annoying. When accelerating briskly, e.g. shifted into Sport and with medium-heavy throttle onto a motorway onramp, it pulls OK, but at 3200rpm the revs suddenly drop a little - no noticable drop in power, though - after a short moment the revs pick up again, and then it starts pulling harder. Finally, when accelerating hard from a standstill, it picks up quite slowly until it hits around 3000RPM, before it starts going like stink. It just overall doesn't seem to have that "brutal torque" that I've come to know from BMW motors. My previous car, a '96 328i, would slap you back in the seat if you planted it at the lights; this one is more like a surge thrusting you back in your seat. Does anyone know what these symptoms might be relating to?

Hi there, I have an E39 530i with the Japanese Mk II DVD navigation system. I also have a DVD containing its software, maps and voices - the one you get along with the car. I would like to dissect this DVD and see if it is possible to load NZ maps and voices on there. It will likely be a laborious process, but probably worth it... Can anyone think of a reason why this wouldn't work? Cheers