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IIIRII

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Posts posted by IIIRII


  1. So whats a realistic power / torque for the factory clutch on a manual 135i ?

    MHD stage 1 and 2 have 2 options 

    1 360/520

    1+ 390/600

    2 380/560

    2+ 420/650

    So , the way i read it stage 2 makes less torque , so theroretically less hard on the clutch ...

    Anyone with real world experience got any thoughts ?

     


  2. Apologies if the answer is already here somewhere obvious and I have missed it.

    Are E30 / 36 ti axles different lengths between the 4 and six cylinder engines ?

    As in I think 316 318 have a small case diff and the 320 323 325 has a medium case, therefore the axles should be slightly shorter ???

    Is there a shorter axle again ? like from a large case diff , that will fit the e30 e36 ti hub

    Hopefully that makes sence

    Thanks


  3. I have a 318tiCompact pretty much completely stripped

    It has new trailing arm bushes, new rear wheel bearing, ally subframe bushes,

    The car is at the point where its about to have the cage done and all the welding finished.

    At this stage it has been turreted in the rear and has a cromoly frame for holding a ma 70 supra diff centre, on spuds tacked into position.

    You could just weld it all in and make some flange adaptors and job done.

    Rego on hold, it was an auto.

    It would be real seay to convert it back to a factory diff centre just by putting another rear subframe beam into it.

    Its rolling / I have all the glass and doors etc: to put it back together, I did cut some of the wiring loom to get it out but its pretty much intact (i wasnt going to use it as its overkill)

    It was a complete driveable car, I still have all the bits needed to make it a road legal race car etc:

    Im wanting $800 for thje rolling shell, without the diff centre.

    All part to go with it I have collected are negotiable to the person who buys it

    Open ma70 diff centre 4.55 or 5.3 ratio

    Including screw in studs 50mm L to convert the hubs to stud

    Adjustable front strut tops

    Aftermarket wiring loom

    Springs to suit the shocks (shocks are not for sale)

    Adjustable Pedal box

    Some other bits ive probably forgotten about

    PM Me a contact number

    Dont ask for any individual parts as the person who buys the shell has first option so that needs to go first.

    Cars in Franklin Area

    Ak


  4. I have a tidy E36ti I bought as a donor for a race car, but then thought it was too tidy to put on gravel so found a less tidy auto that im using, so this one is for sale.

    143k

    Blue

    Manual

    Very tidy genuine original well looked after car

    96 i think

    M42

    I dare say itll end up on tardme, if I can bring myself to donate the $50 it costs to list it.

    Drivers air bag,

    There must be different models of ti's

    This has drivers airbog

    No sun roof

    No air con

    Almost new tires

    $4250

    Pm me for pics or viewing etc:


  5. Ive been researching a few options for a rally car, and was thinking maybe e 30 coupe or e36 compact.

    I was under the impression e36's had a different rear end setup than e30's, but I found a build thread on the pommy rally forums where a guy is building a e36 compact, but it has a trailing arm setup like the e30.

    Was there a transition date or cross over period from 1 type to the other or is this just a northern hemispherre thing ?

    Are ALL NZ e36 compacts wishbone rears ?

    Ta


  6. Im after a E30 2 door as a donor for my next buld

    Literally a rolling shell that can still be rego'd would be ideal

    Needs windscreen but no interior no motor no gearbox

    Just on the offchance someone has or knows of somethig

    North island only

    Ta


  7. These Strut braces have been designed and engineered in NewZealand by an experienced expert alloy welder in conjunction with several racecar engineers and myself specifically for use on e30 road, track, race and show cars.

    So now

    Its a duplicate of the very well thought of ACS strut bar

    >??

    Show me a picture of the ACS one ...

    Hey like I said Im not trying to undermine what you have made , Im saying in my opinion it wouldnt do anything ..


  8. Ok

    The design is wrong , the hinge point is too far from the strut top . The mounting plates look to be too thin and are not gussetted to put the load into the beam.

    Any inwards load on the strut towers should act against the other side in conpression .

    The way that one is set up the plate would just bend under load or the hinge point you have created would move under a compression load.

    Usually the type you are showing have a rigid beam from as close to the strut tower tops as possible.

    The price seems fair as does the biuld quality , but the design is wrong regardless of who designed it.

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